Strange Problem... Looking for help

[Bava]

Was hoping someone here might solve this mystery problem I seem to be having. Let me start by saying I have a 1.8T 6MT. For the last week, I thought my clutch was beginning to slip, and figured that it was time to replace it. However, while driving tonight the car bucked more aggressively and I got ESP and EPC lights on the dash, with no CEL. I tried applying throttle but got no response, so I had to pull over. When I pulled over the idle started jumping from 700-1,100. Then i turned the car off, and back on again. The lights went away, and I managed to get the car home, but it was bucking the whole way back. I'm at a loss for what it might be... Also I just replaced the cam position sensor a few thousand miles back. Any ideas?

[lunder03]

Was hoping someone here might solve this mystery problem I seem to be having. Let me start by saying I have a 1.8T 6MT. For the last week, I thought my clutch was beginning to slip, and figured that it was time to replace it. However, while driving tonight the car bucked more aggressively and I got ESP and EPC lights on the dash, with no CEL. I tried applying throttle but got no response, so I had to pull over. When I pulled over the idle started jumping from 700-1,100. Then i turned the car off, and back on again. The lights went away, and I managed to get the car home, but it was bucking the whole way back. I'm at a loss for what it might be... Also I just replaced the cam position sensor a few thousand miles back. Any ideas?

Lol...yes, check them both again...one of them is bad again...or is somehow lose.

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[chad99]

Check the codes with vag, you will have codes stored after having that issue with ESP and EPC lights on even though they turned themselves off.

[eljay]

Check the codes with vag, you will have codes stored after having that issue with ESP and EPC lights on even though they turned themselves off.

^ Get the codes first before throwing any more parts at it.

[SJorge3442]

^ Get the codes first before throwing any more parts at it.

I'll third this comment. VagCom for stored codes and go from there. The regular OBD2 readers can only read certain P codes. They don't look deeper into the ECU and other control modules where other faults are stored, specifically the EPC and ESP codes.

[lunder03]

I'll third this comment. VagCom for stored codes and go from there. The regular OBD2 readers can only read certain P codes. They don't look deeper into the ECU and other control modules where other faults are stored, specifically the EPC and ESP codes.

No offense to anyone here, but i've seen, or heard of this many times...and these are a majority of the reason why this can occur:

• Transmission not locking up (or slipping)

• Vacuum leak

• EGR valve stuck open

• Dirty/sticking IAC (idle air control valve) (P0505)

• Engine temperature sensor

• Knock sensor

• Clogged EGR ports

• Variable valve timing solenoid clogged/sticking

• Air in cooling system

• MAF connector loose/intermittent connection/faulty MAF

• Fuel system pressure issue

• Clogged fuel filter

• Plugged/restricted exhaust

• Crankshaft position sensor (P0336)

• Power steering pressure sensor circuit

• A/C compressor cycling on/off due to low refrigerant

• Faulty TPS

• Clogged/restricted catalytic converter

• Ignition system

• PCV

Do as they say and check with vag, but expect one of the above to be the issue...my money is on the crankshaft position sensor or mass airflow sensor. I know you said you replaced the crankshaft position sensor roughly two thousand miles ago, buuuut...they can go bad just from too high engine temps.

^ Get the codes first before throwing any more parts at it.

^ Get the codes first before throwing any more parts at it.

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[chad99]

Ok...
So after you spend all your time and money doing the above.
Then go vagcom it and bang head on wall that it could have been solved sooner

[lunder03]

Ok...
So after you spend all your time and money doing the above.
Then go vagcom it and bang head on wall that it could have been solved sooner

Reading must not be a skill of yours...hence, my statement of vag com-ing it and expecting it to be a symptom on my list....

Excellent contribution by the way Chad...we could all use a healthy dose of your sarcasm!

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[SJorge3442]

Ok...
So after you spend all your time and money doing the above.
Then go vagcom it and bang head on wall that it could have been solved sooner

Apparently lunder has a bunch of free time and money to just throw at the car

Reading must not be a skill of yours...hence, my statement of vag com-ing it and expecting it to be a symptom on my list....

Excellent contribution by the way Chad...we could all use a healthy dose of your sarcasm!

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Reading must not be a skill of yours...hence, my statement of vag com-ing it and expecting it to be a symptom on my list....

Excellent contribution by the way Chad...we could all use a healthy dose of your sarcasm!

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Look... I dont generally respond to posts like yours, but I'd hate to see the OP go the headache of checking all 20+ of your suggested ailments in order to fix or diagnose his problem. We're here trying to helping the guy fix his problem in the easiest and more accurate way.

You never once said to scan the car until 3 others said to scan, yet you say we're the ones who can't read. We're not dealing with your Civic, or Chrysler where your FORCED to guess and check parts. These cars have SO MANY more monitoring systems that STORE CODES and tell you exactly what is wrong. Why the hell would I ever spend the time to go through a checklist of outcomes when I could spend 5 minutes reading codes, learning immediately what is causing my issue, and then getting started on fixing/replacing the faulty part? Cars from 20-30 years ago would require what you suggested. That's not the case with cars anymore, nor is it the case with the b6.

But hey, if you wanna play "Spin the wheel" of what could be wrong, go right ahead. We've been around here long enough to know its not worth the hassle when you can simply scan the modules and learn what the root of your problem is. You've been a member for a year, but just recently started posting(a lot if I may add), but I've already seen a few instances where you just claim to be the expert and think your view is the only view. This community is really collaborative, and if you can't understand that there is a ton to learn here to improve the way you fix/work on cars, then maybe Vortex would be better for you.

[lunder03]

Apparently lunder has a bunch of free time and money to just throw at the car




Look... I dont generally respond to posts like yours, but I'd hate to see the OP go the headache of checking all 20+ of your suggested ailments in order to fix or diagnose his problem. We're here trying to helping the guy fix his problem in the easiest and more accurate way.

You never once said to scan the car until 3 others said to scan, yet you say we're the ones who can't read. We're not dealing with your Civic, or Chrysler where your FORCED to guess and check parts. These cars have SO MANY more monitoring systems that STORE CODES and tell you exactly what is wrong. Why the hell would I ever spend the time to go through a checklist of outcomes when I could spend 5 minutes reading codes, learning immediately what is causing my issue, and then getting started on fixing/replacing the faulty part? Cars from 20-30 years ago would require what you suggested. That's not the case with cars anymore, nor is it the case with the b6.

But hey, if you wanna play "Spin the wheel" of what could be wrong, go right ahead. We've been around here long enough to know its not worth the hassle when you can simply scan the modules and learn what the root of your problem is.

Ever think to ask if he owns a vag com? Don't you think if he did he would use it...instead of coming on here and wasting his time to read about our drama???

Keep your back handed comments to yourself...grow a set and say what you have to say.

I see you didn't mention my Audi along with my civiv and sebring...huh.

I don't give or offer suggestions on topics I know nothing about, but i've got you pegged for an immature jack a**!

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[chad99]

First off let me say sorry you took it the wrong way, I was being very slightly sarcastic, but not on the a s s O level, clearly nothing that required a PM from you.

When the CEL or EPC or ESP lights turn on the dash its saying 2 things.
1) There is a problem
2) I think I know where you should look

As mentioned, checking all the things you listed is just crazy to do before simply asking the computer what it thinks is wrong. Generic vagcom cable is cheap and with the lite version you can see the codes.

Anything beyond a visual inspection before vagcom is honestly overkill and would just be throwing parts at it.

It's a 1.8 so only one cam position sensor, and he never said he replaced the crank sensor and it's a manual not a auto

Have a good day

[lunder03]

Ever think to ask if he owns a vag com? Don't you think if he did he would use it...instead of coming on here and wasting his time to read about our drama???

Keep your back handed comments to yourself...grow a set and say what you have to say.

I see you didn't mention my Audi along with my civiv and sebring...huh.

I don't give or offer suggestions on topics I know nothing about, but i've got you pegged for an immature jack a**!

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I hope I didn't offend you "eljay" I know you had mentioned vag com too. I ran into a "barney", and was addressing his issue. I apologize to SJorge3442 as well.

Ever think to ask if he owns a vag com? Don't you think if he did he would use it...instead of coming on here and wasting his time to read about our drama???

Keep your back handed comments to yourself...grow a set and say what you have to say.

I see you didn't mention my Audi along with my civiv and sebring...huh.

I don't give or offer suggestions on topics I know nothing about, but i've got you pegged for an immature jack a**!

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[lunder03]

First off let me say sorry you took it the wrong way, I was being very slightly sarcastic, but not on the a s s O level, clearly nothing that required a PM from you.

When the CEL or EPC or ESP lights turn on the dash its saying 2 things.
1) There is a problem
2) I think I know where you should look

As mentioned, checking all the things you listed is just crazy to do before simply asking the computer what it thinks is wrong. Generic vagcom cable is cheap and with the lite version you can see the codes.

Anything beyond a visual inspection before vagcom is honestly overkill and would just be throwing parts at it.

It's a 1.8 so only one cam position sensor, and he never said he replaced the crank sensor and it's a manual not a auto

Have a good day

..pm'd u cuz I wasn't trying to blast drama all over the site, but clearly it's your intention.

So...

Glad you proof read my writing...so for the record for chad's sake..."crankshaft sensor" appears twice on my 2nd post and should be replaced with "camshaft sensor". To save headache and non-sensible reading which i hope you're not doing now, just refer to my 1st post where it's clear i'm referring to the "camshaft sensor" that chad99 is obsessed about.

Further more, i apologize for not knowing the 1.8t is a sohc...i don't own the 1.8t motor, mine is the 3.0 dohc...which lucky for you isn't necessary for your cars motor symptons, or any combustible motor in a vehicle for that matter.

There, hope that wraps things up and is to your liking, Chad99

On a lighter note, here's a bag of dic*s for you Chad99...why don't you go set on them.

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[Bava]

Thanks for all the replies and suggestions everyone. I should clarify that I changed the CRANK position sensor, not the cam sensor like I previously said. I'm going to borrow a code reader tonight and see what I find. I'll report back later.

[lunder03]

Thanks for all the replies and suggestions everyone. I should clarify that I changed the CRANK position sensor, not the cam sensor like I previously said. I'm going to borrow a code reader tonight and see what I find. I'll report back later.

Good luck and hopefully it's something simple, easy, cheap or all of the above...;-P

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[RDA990]

I'll bet $$ that it's the crank position sensor that went bad again, same thing happened to me a few months ago. If I remember correctly I replaced the CPS and a few weeks or days later I had the same issue again, I had to get the sensor swapped and it was good to go. Did you get an OEM sensor??

EDIT: Definitely check with a vag-com first though.

[texasboy21]

Why anyone would spend a dime guess on what parts to replace before scanning and trouble shooting with vagcom is beyond me.

[lunder03]

Why anyone would spend a dime guess on what parts to replace before scanning and trouble shooting with vagcom is beyond me.

I guess I don't understand what you're saying...I merely listed possible symptoms that could cause what SJorge was/is experiencing.

As previously stated...

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[lunder03]

I guess I don't understand what you're saying...I merely listed possible symptoms that could cause what SJorge was/is experiencing.

As previously stated...

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and as suspected, he doesn't own a vag com, but is picking one up today. :-)

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[lunder03]

and as suspected, he doesn't own a vag com, but is picking one up today. :-)

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Hell, if that's the best response anyone has: check with a vag com...why are we even here...better yet, let's just start a new thread and call it "what ever is wrong with your vehicle, check it a vag com or piss off"...has a nice ring to it don't you agree...lol.

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[texasboy21]

Hell, if that's the best response anyone has: check with a vag com...why are we even here...better yet, let's just start a new thread and call it "what ever is wrong with your vehicle, check it a vag com or piss off"...has a nice ring to it don't you agree...lol.

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Best response and by far the best tool a B6 owner can have..

[lunder03]

Best response and by far the best tool a B6 owner can have..

I'll just steer queer, I mean clear of you two knuckle headed monkeys...it's obvious you two do not know much at all about engines...my first response that his issue is most likely the camshaft sensor is speaking from experience and I don't need to break out the vag com to find out...as SJorge described his symptoms it points directly to cam or crankshaft senor. It's the crankshaft sensor if it acts like it wants to or even dies after the motor has come to temp...yup, no vag com required...Oh yeah Chad99...I don't give a shit how long you've been on here or anyone for that matter...it doesn't mean you know about motors or well known common symptoms that are shared among all engines...if you've only a decade of knowledge in your possension about motors and just Audi you're a green thumb to me.

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[old guy]

If you kids want to continue with this conversion please take it here: Clicky click®

Seat of the pants diagnostics works OK if you have a lot of experience. However, a lot of the peeps posting here are new to the platform and probably new to DIY diagnostics in general. Consequently any method of narrowing down the field can be very helpful.

There are some very cheap diagnostic tools that can help. For example, for under $20 you can pick up a TorquePro app and a ELM bluetooth transmitter and read, research and reset codes with your cell phone. There is also the free VCDS Lite available from RossTech that only requires the purchase of a cheap OBDII cable. After you get familiar with it you can register the software for $100 and pretty much do anything you need except for really advanced functions.

I have both VCDS and TorquePro and I find that TorquePro takes care of the majority of my needs. More than once I have had a CEL pop up while driving. With the TorquePro I reviewed the code and reset it without even stopping the car!

VCDS is really helpful if you want to get into a lot more detail. It was worth its weight in gold to me during the tuning phase of my F21L hybrid set-up. But if all you want to do is figure out what's wrong and make the necessary repairs the TorquePro is invaluable.

[Bava]

Well I just scanned the car, and I only got a PO420... not very helpful. Tomorrow I'm gonna start looking in more detail for dirty MAF sensor, bad fuel filter, or dirty EGR etc...

[SJorge3442]

Well I just scanned the car, and I only got a PO420... not very helpful. Tomorrow I'm gonna start looking in more detail for dirty MAF sensor, bad fuel filter, or dirty EGR etc...

Can you elaborate on your scanning procedure? Was this just a generic OBD2 scanner or full VCDS (vagcom)? If there is a fault stored in the brake module, the OBD scanner won't pick that up.

[old guy]

Was hoping someone here might solve this mystery problem I seem to be having. Let me start by saying I have a 1.8T 6MT. For the last week, I thought my clutch was beginning to slip, and figured that it was time to replace it. However, while driving tonight the car bucked more aggressively and I got ESP and EPC lights on the dash, with no CEL. I tried applying throttle but got no response, so I had to pull over. When I pulled over the idle started jumping from 700-1,100. Then i turned the car off, and back on again. The lights went away, and I managed to get the car home, but it was bucking the whole way back. I'm at a loss for what it might be... Also I just replaced the cam position sensor a few thousand miles back. Any ideas?

Let's work through the symptoms. If the engine was bucking but no CEL that would indicate that the problem isn't coming from misfires but instead something that is affecting the throttle control. The engine is doing what it's asked to do. So lets start with something occurring that has an effect on the throttle response.

If the brake switch is out of adjustment it will cause the throttle cut. If the ECM thinks you have depressed the brake pedal more than about four seconds the engine will go to idle and will not respond to gas pedal input. That could explain the throttle cut. However, that doesn't explain the idle jumping from 700→1,000. Typically that occurs when the throttle positioner loses its "home" position This can be cured by a throttle body reset.

Since you don’t have access to VCDS you can perform a manual reset. Disconnect both battery leads. Run a jumper across both disconnected battery leads. Leave it that way for 5 minutes then reconnect the battery. This will discharge any stored capacitive energy and cause a complete ECM reset. If you want to you can pull the intake hose off of the throttle body so you can observe the butterfly plate. Turn the ignition key to the on position (do not start the engine) and wait two full minutes. Stick your head underneath the hood so you can observe the butterfly. You should hear some high pitched whining noises from the throttle body and right at 30 seconds you should see the butterfly plate open just slightly and immediately close. Wait another 1-½ minutes before turning the ignition off. This will reset the throttle body.

Another thing you can try is to unplug the MAF sensor. This will eliminate a defective MAF sensor from the equation since it will force the ECM to utilize fueling maps based upon numerous other inputs (throttle position, CTS, MAP sensor, etc). If the MAF sensor is causing the problem it should go away once it is removed from the equation.

Only perform one test at a time and lat me know the results. We can go from there.

[123lilc]

Same thing happened to me. The problem was a bad MAP sensor, replaced it and good as new

[eljay]

The good news is that you now have OG helping you and this will be resolved.

[Bava]

Thank you everyone for trying to help me remedy this problem. I just contacted an old neighbor who has a proper VCDS scanner and he is going to help me pinpoint the problem. For now, the car will stay in the driveway. I'll update this thread when he looks at the car.

[lunder03]

The good news is that you now have OG helping you and this will be resolved.

Lol....
by going thru the list of possibilities I provided...personally, I would have started with the Mass Air Flow Sensor...takes two seconds to disconnect that, then proceded to disconnect the battery.

Bridging the terminals isn't necessary to dissipate the remaining energy, but may somehow speed up the process...not sure how???

Generally speaking, 30-60 seconds of zero access to power/current is all that's required for ANY electronic...to achieve what's called or deemed a factory reset or hard reset.

And...you need only disconnect the negative terminal.

For anyone, wishing to get answers to your questions...who actually want thier vehicles issues resolved...come to audiworld.com

We'll do a lot more than just recommend using an obdII or vag com reader. We understand not everyone has money to throw at these very useful tools or any tool for that matter.

Personally, I think you're wasting your time...I would be willing to bet money!!! You'll be replacing your crank sensor again or cam shaft sensor...i'd also be willing to bet you didn't replace the crankshaft sensor with an OEM replacement...but rather a chinese knock-off from amazon or ebay?

These replacement parts are alluring due to there price, but ultimately have a high percentage failure rate.

I am a Certified auto mechanic w/daimler chysler...i have been doing this for 23 years!

I hereby piss on a few audizine members, it only takes a few bad apples to ruin it for everyone.

Lastly, i'd be willing to bet "old guy" isn't very old at all...40's at best and a manager to boot...manager of what, I don't know, but can assure you it has nothing to do with mechanical reasoning or working on cars...he's a "backyard mechanic" at best...and i'm not knocking backyarders, they generally just don't have enough experience. But who knows, i've been proven wrong before...it's a rarety, but has happened.

Beware noobs, not all veterans of audizine are knowledgeable, just means they've been a member of this site for awhile, and anyone can copy words from the repair manual.

The majority of us at audiworld are actually mechanics and certified to boot.

So "copy and paste" audiworld.com

I'm going to post these threads on audiworld...see what kind of reaction occurs...lol.

As for "old guy" solving all your issue don't count on it P0420 is a nasty, nasty little code...and this in regards to cIearing it and it staying gone. I can direct you to a forum and thread with a group of guys who have a lot of experience with that one specific code.

Great news is: P0420 is not going to keep your car from running and driving down the road reliably. Could be an o2 sensor needing a washer so it doesn't set as deep in it's housing thus, exposed to less heat, to a crack or blockage in your catalytic coverter...and no vag com in the world would be able to tell you that...

Good luck

The good news is that you now have OG helping you and this will be resolved.

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[old guy]

Actually I really am an "old guy" I turn 65 in December. And I am a General Manager (30 years) of a manufacturing facility that has nothing to do with the automotive industry. Back in the day I was a partner in a repair and restoration business dealing with British sports cars. Built a few of my own SCCA race cars for fun and entertainment.

And yes, I am now just a backyard enthusiast who enjoys working on cars in general and enjoy helping others with their cars.

I am also very familiar with Audiworld. I am a member. I also am a member of at least 5 other enthusiast forums. Audiworld is one of the slowest moving forums of all the ones I follow.

And yes I am very aware of all the different conditions that can cause a P0420.

As to the battery disconnect. yes my advice is overkill. But it insures that everything will be powered down completely for a complete ECM reset. A 60 second disconnect will not discharge all of the capacitive stored energy enough to force a complete reset.

And I really don't want to get in to a pissing contest but about half or your original suggestions don't apply to the b6.

It's unfortunate that you have taken such a combative stance on Audizine. it really is a great forum.

[customa4]

Lol....
by going thru the list of possibilities I provided...personally, I would have started with the Mass Air Flow Sensor...takes two seconds to disconnect that, then proceded to disconnect the battery.

Bridging the terminals isn't necessary to dissipate the remaining energy, but may somehow speed up the process...not sure how???

Generally speaking, 30-60 seconds of zero access to power/current is all that's required for ANY electronic...to achieve what's called or deemed a factory reset or hard reset.

And...you need only disconnect the negative terminal.

For anyone, wishing to get answers to your questions...who actually want thier vehicles issues resolved...come to audiworld.com

We'll do a lot more than just recommend using an obdII or vag com reader. We understand not everyone has money to throw at these very useful tools or any tool for that matter.

Personally, I think you're wasting your time...I would be willing to bet money!!! You'll be replacing your crank sensor again or cam shaft sensor...i'd also be willing to bet you didn't replace the crankshaft sensor with an OEM replacement...but rather a chinese knock-off from amazon or ebay?

These replacement parts are alluring due to there price, but ultimately have a high percentage failure rate.

I am a Certified auto mechanic w/daimler chysler...i have been doing this for 23 years!

I hereby piss on a few audizine members, it only takes a few bad apples to ruin it for everyone.

Lastly, i'd be willing to bet "old guy" isn't very old at all...40's at best and a manager to boot...manager of what, I don't know, but can assure you it has nothing to do with mechanical reasoning or working on cars...he's a "backyard mechanic" at best...and i'm not knocking backyarders, they generally just don't have enough experience. But who knows, i've been proven wrong before...it's a rarety, but has happened.

Beware noobs, not all veterans of audizine are knowledgeable, just means they've been a member of this site for awhile, and anyone can copy words from the repair manual.

The majority of us at audiworld are actually mechanics and certified to boot.

So "copy and paste" audiworld.com

I'm going to post these threads on audiworld...see what kind of reaction occurs...lol.

As for "old guy" solving all your issue don't count on it P0420 is a nasty, nasty little code...and this in regards to cIearing it and it staying gone. I can direct you to a forum and thread with a group of guys who have a lot of experience with that one specific code.

Great news is: P0420 is not going to keep your car from running and driving down the road reliably. Could be an o2 sensor needing a washer so it doesn't set as deep in it's housing thus, exposed to less heat, to a crack or blockage in your catalytic coverter...and no vag com in the world would be able to tell you that...

Good luck



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Take your 23 years and kick rocks troll. OG has helped way more members here than you could ever imagine. I could guarantee you he'd run laps around you(literally) when dealing with the B6 and like you said, he's a backyard mechanic. Your arrogance is not welcome here so go find another forum that cares about how many years you've been a mechanic.

[texasboy21]

Whoah.

[Bava]

Personally, I think you're wasting your time...I would be willing to bet money!!! You'll be replacing your crank sensor again or cam shaft sensor...i'd also be willing to bet you didn't replace the crankshaft sensor with an OEM replacement...but rather a chinese knock-off from amazon or ebay?

Crank sensor was OEM, bought from my local Audi dealership. Which is why I would be VERY surprised if it's already shot.

[lunder03]

Take your 23 years and kick rocks troll. OG has helped way more members here than you could ever imagine. I could guarantee you he'd run laps around you(literally) when dealing with the B6 and like you said, he's a backyard mechanic. Your arrogance is not welcome here so go find another forum that cares about how many years you've been a mechanic.

I'll take my 23 years all the way to the bank boy...you're just a follower and proved it with your post.

And you couldn't guarantee anything more than a mouse fart!!!

Real nice user name by the way...poser! Sounds like you have an identity crisis situation going on...

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[lunder03]

Crank sensor was OEM, bought from my local Audi dealership. Which is why I would be VERY surprised if it's already shot.

Hmmm...I do hope that's not the case...

Just out of curiosity...did the problem become progressively worse as the car came to temp.?

Maybe acting like it wants to stall out or even the engine die out?

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[Bava]

Hmmm...I do hope that's not the case...

Just out of curiosity...did the problem become progressively worse as the car came to temp.?

Maybe acting like it wants to stall out or even the engine die out?

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Engine never died out, and this sever bucking happened when the car was around halfway to normal operating temp. I was in the car for maybe 5 minutes when it happened. I really appreciate all the help you guys are giving me!

[old guy]

What have you done so far? Did you unplug the MAF sensor as suggested?

[lunder03]

Actually I really am an "old guy" I turn 65 in December. And I am a General Manager (30 years) of a manufacturing facility that has nothing to do with the automotive industry. Back in the day I was a partner in a repair and restoration business dealing with British sports cars. Built a few of my own SCCA race cars for fun and entertainment.

And yes, I am now just a backyard enthusiast who enjoys working on cars in general and enjoy helping others with their cars.

I am also very familiar with Audiworld. I am a member. I also am a member of at least 5 other enthusiast forums. Audiworld is one of the slowest moving forums of all the ones I follow.

And yes I am very aware of all the different conditions that can cause a P0420.

As to the battery disconnect. yes my advice is overkill. But it insures that everything will be powered down completely for a complete ECM reset. A 60 second disconnect will not discharge all of the capacitive stored energy enough to force a complete reset.

And I really don't want to get in to a pissing contest but about half or your original suggestions don't apply to the b6.

It's unfortunate that you have taken such a combative stance on Audizine. it really is a great forum.

Well i do apologize to you old guy, i was just ticked off and there's no excuse really...being told i'm just a "fly by the seat of my pants" kind of guy really rubbed me the wrong way...because i am knowledgeable and i only offer help on topics i know about...

Anyway, i really am sorry...i do know that you have knowledge too...i've read a lot of your posts over this year and it's the reason i had started following you two days ago...

So, you can take it for what it's worth...hopefully you'll accept it, but if not i'm certain i'll live...

I still disagree with you on which is a better site...lol...audiword may be slower on thier return time, but i do feel they're more thourough and posses more knowledgeable members.

Regardless...that's neither here nor there...i just assumed the guy did not have a vag com and my assumptions were correct...so rather than throw a bucket of water on a drowning man...i offered my hand...only to be dogged by two numb nuts who obviously know jack...

As for my list with a few things that do not apply to his car...at the time i was thinking of motors in general and had more or less forgotten that trying to help the guy...

Lastly, i was really pissed when low and behold...you started going thru my list when before it was all about vag com...

Helping the guy is really all that matters and i lost focus...

I am certain however, one or both of us will get this man back on the road...because it's a crappy feeling to stare at a car you know you can't drive!

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[old guy]

I'm good. I think my "seat of the pants" comment was misinterpreted. It's an old aviation expression.

The old flying expression of 'flies by the seat of his trousers' was explained by Larry Conner, means going aloft without instruments, radio or other such luxuries."

It wasn't meant as a snub. It meant someone who had enough experience that they could get the job done by knowledge and intuition and not rely solely on stuff like VCDS.

I'm sure that between the two of us along with a plethora of other AZ members we can get Bava back up and running.