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  1. #1
    Established Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    May 06 2007
    AZ Member #
    17814
    My Garage
    My Washing Machine
    Location
    Seaside, ca

    Visual/physical symptoms of bad lower curved control arm?

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    I've looked around on other forums but can't find a definitive answer.

    I replaced my cv, then decided to replace my front 175k shocks, then noticed the upper control arms are bad so am ordering those.

    While I'm in there I'm worried the lower rear/curved control arm is shot at the bushing on the subframe and should replace them if at all bad.

    The initial reason I tore the front end sort was my car would have a slight grinding sound on the left front that would become worse in a course of 5 seconds applying the brake at 50 mph. Then the steering wheel would shake a little too. Also, I when I go over 1 inch curbs, I would here a clunk.

    Relaxed my motor mounts last week thinking that would solve it, but it didn't- though it helped the clunking young accelerations.

    Soooo, my question is, now that my front shocks/trusts have been removed from both sides of my car, and the ball joint of the lower curved control arms separated from the steering Knuckle/wheel mount how can I check if those lower curved control arms are bad.

    I'm almost willing to buy them just to make certain they will be good while everything is torn apart.

    Below is a screen shot of the rubber on the curved control arm to the subframe.

    Thanks a ton.






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    I love my s4 avant 2001.

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Four Rings
    Join Date
    Nov 04 2013
    AZ Member #
    128426
    My Garage
    stg 3 widebody, 1990 miata, '05 gsxr 1000
    Location
    Palo Alto, CA

    Rule of thumb: crumbling rubber = replace. Not sure what joint i'm looking at from the picture.

  3. #3
    Established Member Two Rings
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    May 06 2007
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    The lower rear (curved) control arm in the front of the car. This picture is of the control arms bushing to the subframe under the firewall.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I love my s4 avant 2001.

  4. #4
    Veteran Member Three Rings audinutt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 11 2007
    AZ Member #
    14809
    My Garage
    2001 A8l 2001 A4TQM Avant
    Location
    texas

    Your best bet is to replace all the control arms at once that way you have replaced all of the wear-and-tear items there and should be good for a while the only other item I would consider changing at the same time is sway bar links tie rod ends and shock absorbers

    Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk
    2001 Audi S8
    2011 Q7 TDI
    2001 A4 TQ Avant

  5. #5
    Senior Member Three Rings crazyquik22023's Avatar
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    Jan 30 2012
    AZ Member #
    87460
    Location
    Brunswick, Ohio

    The bushing is part of the control arm. If that picture is of where the control arm attaches to the subframe (hard to tell from pic), then that control arm bushing is shot and you need a new control arm.

  6. #6
    Veteran Member Four Rings jpurre's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 11 2013
    AZ Member #
    116957
    My Garage
    2004 BMW 325i
    Location
    South Florida

    Wise to replace all at once. I just bought a kit from FCP Euro, going in next.
    2001 Silver F21 TIP (SOLD)
    Build thread--> http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...ally-Happening

  7. #7
    Veteran Member Four Rings wbrunner23's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 07 2012
    AZ Member #
    94796
    My Garage
    1955 Johnson QD-16
    Location
    KSQ, PA

    Quote Originally Posted by mydreamcar View Post
    Relaxed my motor mounts last week thinking that would solve it, but it didn't- though it helped the clunking young accelerations.
    Last time I relaxed my motor mounts, it definately hepled with young accelerations... weird

  8. #8
    Veteran Member Four Rings zillarob's Avatar
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    Nov 16 2010
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    67118
    My Garage
    2kS4, 84gli, 84caddy dsl
    Location
    WetSide, WA

    Can be tough to tell sometimes. I usually stumble across them while torquing lugs.
    Ill put a breaker bar on the big center axle nut and rock it back and forth (on the ground, ebrake on) while watching to see if the wheel moves in the fender well.
    There are only 2 things needed to make an Audi work properly - Duct tape and WD40. If it moves and it shouldn't - Duct tape. If it doesn’t move and it should - WD40.

  9. #9
    Veteran Member Four Rings christianb5s4's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 24 2014
    AZ Member #
    277489
    Location
    Newport Beach, CA

    I agree with the above posters, I highly recommend replacing all the control arms. If one is suspect, chances are the rest are not far behind. I also have had nothing but positive experiences with my FCP control arms.
    Imola 2001 Stage 3 S4: 324K - 157mph 1/2 mile - 543whp/530ftlbs Mustang Dyno - Built BEL Block - RS4 cams/intake - TTE600s - Ringer Racing Stage 5 - Etspec - SRM V3 Intercoolers - AA built trans - 4:1 Diff - Vast cooler - JHM Trio - 034 - H&R Coilovers - OZ Racing - SRM/SSAC exhaust
    2024 M3 Comp xDrive
    2016 A6 prestige w/ s-line, APR Stg 1, Melen TCU, PS4S, valcona S6 interior parts

  10. #10
    Veteran Member Three Rings MyXbfS4's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 18 2015
    AZ Member #
    310107
    My Garage
    2000 B5 S4 Light Silver w/ Onyx (no sunroof), 2009 A4 Black
    Location
    Los Angeles, California

    I also vote replace all! I was having similar symptoms described so when I took it to the shop for my overheating issue I asked if they would check out the control arms, bushings, axles etc. since I had my bf check it out the night before and he didnt notice anything out of the ordinary.

    next day I get a call and the first thing out of the mechanics mouth was "you're lucky to be alive, and lucky no one else was killed". It appears one of the bolts holding the control arm or something had come out of one of the holes and almost completely to the point where he was surprise it didnt come off while driving and I had been driving like that for awhile so kinda scary.

    sorry for the long story but the point is its not worth the risk.
    2002 Laser Red B5 S4 Sedan
    2011 Ibis White B8S5 4.2V8 Coupe
    Past:
    2000 Silver B5S4 6mt Sedan(no sunroof)- SOLD
    2001.5 Silver B5S4 6mt Sedan stg3- RIP
    2000 Santorin B5S4 Tip Sedan- RIP

  11. #11
    Established Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    May 06 2007
    AZ Member #
    17814
    My Garage
    My Washing Machine
    Location
    Seaside, ca

    You are all wonderful human beings. Thank you very much for your advice and stories. I will be replacing most of the front control arms, and if up to it, all of them. I now understand why my car squeaked over small dips at low speed. Also, I am much less intimidated ripping apart my car after doing the motor mounts for he first time- it just made me believe in my capabilities more after such a long repair. My car will now remain on jack stands for another couple weeks.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I love my s4 avant 2001.

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