Tie Rod Removal Tool Is Literally Biting into the Tie Rod End, What Should I Do?

[arjun90]

I rented a Power-Built Tie Rod Remover Tool (for trucks and SUV's) from Advance Auto Parts and it appears the adapters included are just too flimsy to work with. I'm using the included 38.4mm adapter. It slides onto the inner tie rod end, but doesn't have a firm grip; its quite prone to slipping (when attempting to apply torque) and its very easy for the adapter to fall off (in-spite of the adapter being perfectly flush within the tool). I tried torquing to 74 ft lbs in one go, but was forced to torque in increments--- first 40 ft lbs, followed by 35 ft lbs, followed by an additional 5 ft lbs (just to be on safe side). Its really difficult to center the tool to get a full control. It almost appears the the tool quickly goes off-centered.

Should I be concerned over the deep bite marks on the inner tie rod ends? I did not see these marks on the original tie rods prior to removing. Also, how can I be confident that I achieved the required torque?

Here's the picture of the newly installed inner tie rod (driver side)

[rollerton]

I literally just went through this last weekend. Same thing happened, those marks obvious have no affect on the tie rod function. Only tool I had that was useful at all was a huge pipe wrench. Required torque? lol... good luck. How do you know the previous ones were set at the 'required torque' ? I used a tiny bit of loctite and just went for it. That approach has worked for me for 25 years on thousands of repairs. Use common sense and tighten it.
My pipe wrench chewed those fittings up pretty good. But I think it was all fixed once I slid the boot down over it! Who's ever going to see it?

[arjun90]

I literally started yelling at the tool, and hopped on Amazon to see if there was an alternative. You're right, not going to see it again as soon as the boot is applied. The tie rods were never changed. I'm pretty sure the original ones were unmarred because automated machines / pre-assembled components were involved.

On the other hand, I did not go for the all metal. I'm using the original Lemforder TRE's (Both Inner and Outer). Looks like the extra Meyle HD All Metal TRE's (Outer Only) are going to be tucked away

I don't recall coming across Loctite on the Inner Tie Rod threads. Is it really necessary to apply a small minute?

The Driver Side is so simple by the way---but the passenger side is supposed to be uninviting I hear

I literally just went through this last weekend. Same thing happened, those marks obvious have no affect on the tie rod function. Only tool I had that was useful at all was a huge pipe wrench. Required torque? lol... good luck. How do you know the previous ones were set at the 'required torque' ? I used a tiny bit of loctite and just went for it. That approach has worked for me for 25 years on thousands of repairs. Use common sense and tighten it.
My pipe wrench chewed those fittings up pretty good. But I think it was all fixed once I slid the boot down over it! Who's ever going to see it?

[Racin2redline]

I went to harbor freight and bought a huge adjustable.
cut the wheel one way put it on and cracked it loose

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[arjun90]

That must be an intense angle from where the adjustable is being applied. I'll probably still use that on top of a torque wrench to give myself the extra piece of mind.

But seriously, is there any way to not to mar the surface of the inner tie rod end?

I'm pretty sure an indy mechanic will mar the surface as well. The amount of clearance I have though is just astounding. If that strut assembly was in the way, I can see myself contemplating , haha

On the other hand, I really shouldn't have changed the inner tie rods, they appeared just fine. However, considering they were in the vehicle for so long and that the outer tie rods were terribly worn out, preventative maintenance came to mind.

Since I'm going to do the passenger side relatively soon, I should turn the steering wheel all the way to the left, right?

I went to harbor freight and bought a huge adjustable.
cut the wheel one way put it on and cracked it loose

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[Racin2redline]

you do not need a tierod tool. I'm telling you large adjustable wrench ,

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[julex]

Lisle tool worked for me fine after hand grinding/enlarging one of the crow's foot adapters (one that almost fit but a hair too small) to exactly match the size of tie rod. From there it was a lot of torque to crack it. fastening was non issue, "gutentight" with a dab of loctite does it.

[arjun90]

Thanks for the suggestions, I think I'll refrain myself from using loctite--the adjustable wrench though sound like a better idea, will mar the surface of the part regardless of any tool used due to angle at which the tool is applied as well as the surrounding constraint space.

[arjun90]

julex the largest adapter I'm seeing the Lisle kit is 1 7/16", out of curiosity how big are your inner tie rod ends on the vehicle in which you used this tool on?

For anyone using the tie rod pipe and adapter, how did you all even keep the tool stable when tightening, there was tremendous movement for me

There appears to be minute differences from model to model

Lisle tool worked for me fine after hand grinding/enlarging one of the crow's foot adapters (one that almost fit but a hair too small) to exactly match the size of tie rod. From there it was a lot of torque to crack it. fastening was non issue, "gutentight" with a dab of loctite does it.

[arjun90]

Well, I was able to achieve torque today using the Harbor Freight Digital Torque Wrench Adapter and a thin layer of sand paper between the Tie Rod Removal Tool Adapter and nut of inner tie rod. I may have over-torqued by a few lbs, but I'm not much concerned.

[julex]

cool, I can still check what I exactly used later.... if you still care.

[Racin2redline]

I swear, harbor freight sells gigantic adjustables for 25$~ , turn wheel all the way one way. break large inner nut loose with ease. replace tierod.
if you would like to at that point use the fancy too to torque the new one on , fine.

I used my judgement and tightened the new one in with the adjustable , no marring or slipping off

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[arjun90]

By gigantic, I thought you meant somewhere around 18" inches or so. 25" is a whole other level, lol

[kleinewunder]

A 15" adjustable wrench will do the trick. Actually works much better than the official inner tie rod end removal tool, which I bought and found pretty much useless.

[Mad Cow]

+1 on the big adjustable wrench, I've never even considered buying a special tool.