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  1. #1
    Active Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    May 14 2016
    AZ Member #
    373319
    Location
    Dallas

    Car won't start, battery light ine

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    Audi A4 2003 Quattro 1.8T. Over 150,000 miles.
    It'd been running great until Wednesday night. Even when driving home after work it was running with no problem, but later that night tried to start the car, It won't start.
    When tuning the key the engine responded as normal but only for two seconds before it ceased. And the red battery light came on.
    Tried to jump it by connecting another car's battery, it didn't work.

    I have searched online about the battery light but most discussions were about the light coming one but car still runs. My card won't even start so now I have no idea about what's the problem.

    Any suggestion would be appreciated.

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Four Rings imnuts's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 12 2009
    AZ Member #
    46297
    My Garage
    '21 F-150 Powerboost Lariat & '14 Acura RDX
    Location
    Dirty Jerz

    What's the battery voltage?

    Sent from my DROID Turbo 2

  3. #3
    Veteran Member Three Rings 5ktq's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 15 2016
    AZ Member #
    378564
    Location
    Western Canada

    Battery light on when not running is normal, that's how it works. It just means the alternator isn't working (duh, the engine isn't running). I'd look elsewhere.

  4. #4
    Veteran Member Three Rings 5ktq's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 15 2016
    AZ Member #
    378564
    Location
    Western Canada

    Errr you mean it started for 2s and then died, right? Not cranked for 2s and now it won't even crank?

  5. #5
    Active Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    May 14 2016
    AZ Member #
    373319
    Location
    Dallas

    Yeah you guys are right, maybe the engine was not runjing at all, I mean, I have not idea. As I turned the key it sounded like it cranked for 2 seconds and ceased, and the battery light came on. So it wan't the battery but the alternator having problem?
    Is it something I can fix or should I tow it to a shop. I'm a complete newbie to DIY my car btw.

  6. #6
    Veteran Member Four Rings old guy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 28 2006
    AZ Member #
    14483
    My Garage
    '13 A5, '24 Tiguan SEL R-Line
    Location
    Western Maryland

    It sounds like a bad connection. Check the connections on the back of the alternator, on the starter and the battery.
    '03 A4 5-MT Motoza tuned Frankenturbo F21L With full supporting mods. Sold (and missed dearly).
    '13 A5 6-MT Needs more Fun Stuff: Neuspeed PM / 3.0 TDI Intercooler / H&R OE Sport Springs / Bilstein B8 Shocks / TyrolSport Brake Stiffeners / ECS Short Shifter / S5 Side Skirts / RS Grille

  7. #7
    Active Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    May 14 2016
    AZ Member #
    373319
    Location
    Dallas

    But if the interior light can still be turned on, does that mean the battery is working and the problem is something else?

  8. #8
    Veteran Member Three Rings 5ktq's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 15 2016
    AZ Member #
    378564
    Location
    Western Canada

    interior light uses little power, so it can still work with a mostly dead battery.

    what happens when you try and start it now? does it crank?

  9. #9
    Veteran Member Four Rings old guy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 28 2006
    AZ Member #
    14483
    My Garage
    '13 A5, '24 Tiguan SEL R-Line
    Location
    Western Maryland

    Quote Originally Posted by paazan View Post
    But if the interior light can still be turned on, does that mean the battery is working and the problem is something else?
    I was mainly referring to the connections on the starter:

    '03 A4 5-MT Motoza tuned Frankenturbo F21L With full supporting mods. Sold (and missed dearly).
    '13 A5 6-MT Needs more Fun Stuff: Neuspeed PM / 3.0 TDI Intercooler / H&R OE Sport Springs / Bilstein B8 Shocks / TyrolSport Brake Stiffeners / ECS Short Shifter / S5 Side Skirts / RS Grille

  10. #10
    Senior Member Three Rings Pswish's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 25 2016
    AZ Member #
    370831
    My Garage
    2010 Suzuki VStrom 650
    Location
    Bay Area

    I had this problem and then it got worse. Did you try turing the key to off, then try and start it again? Try holding the key to start a little longer than you would normally to see if it continues. I had to replace my fuel filter, fuel pump and then ignition switch to fix my problems at 152k miles.

  11. #11
    Active Member Two Rings Pkr1991's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 03 2015
    AZ Member #
    359472
    Location
    Massachusetts

    Although you did not mention any CEL's or all the symptoms of a bad Crankshaft position sensor I did have similar issues as you when mine went.
    Keep us updated.

  12. #12
    Senior Member Three Rings Pswish's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 25 2016
    AZ Member #
    370831
    My Garage
    2010 Suzuki VStrom 650
    Location
    Bay Area

    I didn't get a CEL until a boost leak (from the suction pump) snuck into the picture. I would start with Old Guy's suggestion and go from there since there are like ~7 conditions that can cause our cars not to start.

  13. #13
    Active Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    May 14 2016
    AZ Member #
    373319
    Location
    Dallas

    Thanks for all the response and suggestions above.

    Update:
    I have just replaced battery with a new one.
    It still won't start.
    Regarding the CEL, it wasn't on. Before the battery replacing only the battery/alternator light came on, but after replace both Alternator light and Electronic Stabilisation Program light came on.

    Need more suggestion. Thanks.
    I'm thinking towing it to the shop tomorrow morning if can't figure out. Really don't wanna give up, but need a commute to work asap.

  14. #14
    Active Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    May 14 2016
    AZ Member #
    373319
    Location
    Dallas

    Just another update:

    Towed the car to a shop today, paying towing and diagnostic fee in total of $200 just to find out that the computer is kinda done.
    Even thought the CEL wasn't on, but when they connected it to some kind of "Audi official diagnostic system" or something a whole bunch of codes were returned. And basically "there's a code for almost everything".
    As the shop suggested, it needs to be towed again to Audi dealer or somewhere that can do advanced job to fix it.

    Well, could be a somewhere from 1 grand or 2.

  15. #15
    Senior Member Three Rings Pswish's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 25 2016
    AZ Member #
    370831
    My Garage
    2010 Suzuki VStrom 650
    Location
    Bay Area

    Only way to save yourself money is to get an OBD II cable+software+win 10 laptop and pull the codes yourself then research them. You can get about 5 codes when you remove power from the car; keep us updated.

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