Test drove a high-mileage RS4 today...

[DAYTA]

Posted this in the general forum as well, but figured I’d post in the RS4-specific area…

So I bought a 2010 A6 just a few months ago. While I think is a perfect DD, I'm already a bit bored by it so I've been looking around for an RS4. Coincidentally, the dealership where I purchased my A6 just acquired a high-mileage RS4. It’s a 2007 Avus Silver w/ 121k miles.

I’m thinking a high-mileage car is OK as long as it’s been taken care of because I won't drive it much. It will be my DD and my current daily commute is 10-12 miles roundtrip. As reference, I've had my A6 for 5 months and have put less than 2k miles on it.

I drove up to the dealership today for a test drive. Overall, the car was about what I expected - very used, but not in terrible condition. It handled well in the corners, though it felt a bit heavier than expected. I have to be honest...the midrange on my APR-tuned A6 felt much more powerful. It wasn't until I got to about 5k RPMs that the RS4 felt quick, but I guess that's expected from a high-revving, small displacement V8.

A few notes:

1) The exterior looked pretty good for a 9 year old car with 121k miles. No major dings/dents, a few paint chips, scratches.

2) The interior was in OK shape for 121k miles (no tears in the seats), though there were a few things that the dealer acknowledged they would fix before selling the car:

- fix broken glovebox
- fix broken center armrest
- replace front upper control arms
- replace leaking cv boot
- trim behind driver seat was separated (they told me this is a common occurrence with the B6/B7 platform?)
- replace driver side valve cover

To that last point, I took the pic below of the engine and it looked a bit dirty. Should I be worried about the browalong the driver side IM?



3) They performed a BG cleaning instead of a walnut blast to clean up the carbon. Not sure if a thorough carbon clean is still needed?

4) Clutch felt a bit heavy, the assumption is that it is an aftermarket replacement. It definitely felt a bit grabby and harder to engage smoothly in S mode, but driving around in regular mode seemed OK.

5) Pads have 50%/70% life F/R. Rotors are in decent shape.

6) Tires have decent tread (Conti Contisport 5P).


Didn’t ask about DRC replacement, need to do that still. Is there anything else I’m missing?


They're selling it in the low $20s (cheapest price in the country, though highest mileage as well). They’re also giving me the best deal on my trade-in since I bought the A6 from them originally. Essentially, I'd have to put in another $5k to keep my monthly payments the same on the RS4.

Thoughts? Should I still consider this car or move on?

[wednesday]

Posted this in the general forum as well, but figured I’d post in the RS4-specific area…

So I bought a 2010 A6 just a few months ago. While I think is a perfect DD, I'm already a bit bored by it so I've been looking around for an RS4. Coincidentally, the dealership where I purchased my A6 just acquired a high-mileage RS4. It’s a 2007 Avus Silver w/ 121k miles.

I’m thinking a high-mileage car is OK as long as it’s been taken care of because I won't drive it much. It will be my DD and my current daily commute is 10-12 miles roundtrip. As reference, I've had my A6 for 5 months and have put less than 2k miles on it.

I drove up to the dealership today for a test drive. Overall, the car was about what I expected - very used, but not in terrible condition. It handled well in the corners, though it felt a bit heavier than expected. I have to be honest...the midrange on my APR-tuned A6 felt much more powerful. It wasn't until I got to about 5k RPMs that the RS4 felt quick, but I guess that's expected from a high-revving, small displacement V8.

A few notes:

1) The exterior looked pretty good for a 9 year old car with 121k miles. No major dings/dents, a few paint chips, scratches.

2) The interior was in OK shape for 121k miles (no tears in the seats), though there were a few things that the dealer acknowledged they would fix before selling the car:

- fix broken glovebox
- fix broken center armrest
- replace front upper control arms
- replace leaking cv boot
- trim behind driver seat was separated (they told me this is a common occurrence with the B6/B7 platform?)
- replace driver side valve cover

To that last point, I took the pic below of the engine and it looked a bit dirty. Should I be worried about the browalong the driver side IM?

3) They performed a BG cleaning instead of a walnut blast to clean up the carbon. Not sure if a thorough carbon clean is still needed?

4) Clutch felt a bit heavy, the assumption is that it is an aftermarket replacement. It definitely felt a bit grabby and harder to engage smoothly in S mode, but driving around in regular mode seemed OK.

5) Pads have 50%/70% life F/R. Rotors are in decent shape.

6) Tires have decent tread (Conti Contisport 5P).


Didn’t ask about DRC replacement, need to do that still. Is there anything else I’m missing?


They're selling it in the low $20s (cheapest price in the country, though highest mileage as well). They’re also giving me the best deal on my trade-in since I bought the A6 from them originally. Essentially, I'd have to put in another $5k to keep my monthly payments the same on the RS4.

Thoughts? Should I still consider this car or move on?

These may sound like repeat questions as it seems that you have already done some research, but no harm in making sure :)

Regarding DRC, are you wanting to check if it has original DRC is still installed or if recall has been performed, if any? http://web.audiusa.com/recall/

In regular or S mode, have you driven the car to red line during test drive and confirmed that clutch is not "sticky"? ..indicative of clutch going bad.

At idle in hot temperature for more than 15 minutes, if you start driving off, does it drive normally or do you get any EPC/check engine lights? ..indicative of bad throttle body.

How about going over bumps one side at a time at slow speeds - any clunking sounds? ..indicative of bad control arms.

This will be hard to tell, but is there any smell of oil after test driving with hood open? .. indicative of oil leak or common pcv o ring leak - easy to change during CC.

Are there any visible hairline cracks on coolant bottle? .. if yes, then get it changed now than later.

At the price you are getting the RS for, it seems good in my opinion. It does get harder to maintain since a lot of parts really are expensive on this model.. even brakes/rotors can be expensive.

As another member, I have to ask you this stupid question.. here it goes.. did you feel the 5k "kick" or 5500ish kick?

What is going on with driver side valve cover? Which 2010 A6 did you have? 2010 A6 would have had newer tech.. curious about your move if you don't mind..

[RAudi Driver]

That car, even with 121k on it looks beat to crap. No enthusiast would ever let their RS4 get to that condition. It's been neglected and will need extra attention to get it up to snuff.

Walk from this one. Sell the dealer your car and then go buy the RS of your dreams.

[DAYTA]

These may sound like repeat questions as it seems that you have already done some research, but no harm in making sure :)

Regarding DRC, are you wanting to check if it has original DRC is still installed or if recall has been performed, if any? http://web.audiusa.com/recall/

In regular or S mode, have you driven the car to red line during test drive and confirmed that clutch is not "sticky"? ..indicative of clutch going bad.

At idle in hot temperature for more than 15 minutes, if you start driving off, does it drive normally or do you get any EPC/check engine lights? ..indicative of bad throttle body.

How about going over bumps one side at a time at slow speeds - any clunking sounds? ..indicative of bad control arms.

This will be hard to tell, but is there any smell of oil after test driving with hood open? .. indicative of oil leak or common pcv o ring leak - easy to change during CC.

Are there any visible hairline cracks on coolant bottle? .. if yes, then get it changed now than later.

At the price you are getting the RS for, it seems good in my opinion. It does get harder to maintain since a lot of parts really are expensive on this model.. even brakes/rotors can be expensive.

As another member, I have to ask you this stupid question.. here it goes.. did you feel the 5k "kick" or 5500ish kick?

What is going on with driver side valve cover? Which 2010 A6 did you have? 2010 A6 would have had newer tech.. curious about your move if you don't mind..

Excellent info, thanks!

- Input the VIN, didn't see any outstanding recalls. Not sure if DRC is original, but may just end up putting coils on it eventually anyway.
- Interesting note about the clutch. It didn't feel sticky, but there was a 1-2 redline shift where the clutch stuck halfway engaged. Only happened once, not sure if it was a fluke?
- Test drove for 45 min, including some stop/go traffic. No CELs.
- Listened for clunking, didn't really hear any...but I was driving mostly on freshly paved roads.
- Didn't check for an oil smell.
- Didn't see any cracks in the coolant tank.
- Didn't necessarily feel a "kick" at 5k RPMs, but it did seem like the car had a progressively linear power delivery as the RPMs rose.

I'm OK with higher maintenance costs, so long as the car will last and there are no catastrophic issues I have to worry about down the road.

Regarding my A6, I have the supercharged 3.0T engine with an APR tune - making 380hp/400tq. Without question, the A6 has much better tech (push button start, 3G MMI w/ backup camera, etc). I was surprised the 07 RS4 didn't even have Bluetooth???

The A6 is an excellent car (and in really good condition with solid maintenance records to boot), it's just a bit soulless. It doesn't really engage me, which is why I'm looking at the RS4. That high-revving V8 just hits my inner ear every time.

[DAYTA]

That car, even with 121k on it looks beat to crap. No enthusiast would ever let their RS4 get to that condition. It's been neglected and will need extra attention to get it up to snuff.

Walk from this one. Sell the dealer your car and then go buy the RS of your dreams.

What makes you say it's beat to shit? Are you basing it on the info I've provided, or are you looking at the FS ad?

This will be a 3rd car serving mostly DD duties and be parked outside often (only have 2 garage spaces) so I don't want a garage queen. While I would prefer a pristine example, I also have no problem with an RS4 that's showing a little bit of wear & tear in case it gets a ding or scrape from daily usage.

That said, reliability (assuming normal maintenance) is very important to me. I don't want a car that I have to worry about stranding me at any given time. To that point, I've heard that the RS4 is fundamentally a reliable car from a number of different people.

[importraceram]

Excellent info, thanks!

- Input the VIN, didn't see any outstanding recalls. Not sure if DRC is original, but may just end up putting coils on it eventually anyway.
- Interesting note about the clutch. It didn't feel sticky, but there was a 1-2 redline shift where the clutch stuck halfway engaged. Only happened once, not sure if it was a fluke?
- Test drove for 45 min, including some stop/go traffic. No CELs.
- Listened for clunking, didn't really hear any...but I was driving mostly on freshly paved roads.
- Didn't check for an oil smell.
- Didn't see any cracks in the coolant tank.
- Didn't necessarily feel a "kick" at 5k RPMs, but it did seem like the car had a progressively linear power delivery as the RPMs rose.

I'm OK with higher maintenance costs, so long as the car will last and there are no catastrophic issues I have to worry about down the road.

Regarding my A6, I have the supercharged 3.0T engine with an APR tune - making 380hp/400tq. Without question, the A6 has much better tech (push button start, 3G MMI w/ backup camera, etc). I was surprised the 07 RS4 didn't even have Bluetooth???

The A6 is an excellent car (and in really good condition with solid maintenance records to boot), it's just a bit soulless. It doesn't really engage me, which is why I'm looking at the RS4. That high-revving V8 just hits my inner ear every time.

I came from a stage 2 B8.5 (B7 S4 before that). From the moment I traded the B7 S4 in on the B8.5, I just couldn't stop thinking about the V8 sound. The RS is obviously a step down in terms of tech and straight line performance from my B8.5 but I would take it everyday. The 3.0T to RS move is fairly common on this forum or at least I've seen it serveral times in the past few years.

[Eric F]

I don't know if there is something specific with the way that engine looks, but mine always looks kinda dirty. It seems like dirt and road grit really manages to get into the engine bay. It's kinda difficult to clean under there too. My undertray has a hole in it too which may help contribute to the problem.

[d2a4]

The first 5 items do make it sound like this car is neglected, but then the PO could be not a car guy. At low 20, I think it is a good price. When I bought mine, the DRC is the biggest item (clunking at test drive), front bumper cracked and scratches but nothing else concern me. CC was done in 2015, new control arms, not a single drop of oil drip.

[ven0m]

In my opinion it's a fair deal at 20k.
The way you explain the test drive, the car sounds to me like a 6/10. The car doesn't sound horrible, I've seen much worse.

If you wanted, you can take the car to a pristine condition and still stay way under 30k. IF you wanted I'm saying. If you just want to keep it running there isn't much you have to look into at this time.

[d2a4]

I don't know if there is something specific with the way that engine looks, but mine always looks kinda dirty. It seems like dirt and road grit really manages to get into the engine bay. It's kinda difficult to clean under there too. My undertray has a hole in it too which may help contribute to the problem.

Haha, I am very sure RAudiDriver RS is in perfect condition so anything else is neglected in his term. My engine is dirty as well, my is DD anyway.

[Sleepin On 18s]

That car, even with 121k on it looks beat to crap. No enthusiast would ever let their RS4 get to that condition. It's been neglected and will need extra attention to get it up to snuff.

Walk from this one. Sell the dealer your car and then go buy the RS of your dreams.

^^ I have to agree with this. While the price may be right/fair, I think you'd be able to find an RS in much nicer condition that was cared for properly, and might even have less miles, for nearly the same price. During my search, I almost jumped into one example in NJ bc "the price was right"...but after inspection it was clearly not cared for by the PO. Then one month later, the absolute perfect pristine example landed right in my lap, for almost the same price. Don't rush it, take your time and you will find "the one" that speaks to you!!! GL

[particulardude]

+1 on passing on this one if you have any hesitations on the condition. I don't see any major listings with those miles in Connecticut so I haven't reviewed. I also respect your decision not to post the link. I had a couple slip out from under me so when I found a good one I immediately placed a deposit.

I posted on your other thread in general but this sounds like it's tempting as a deal of convenience being at the dealer you have your current vehicle from and being local. Consider expanding your search at least to get a feel for what else is out there.

I completely agree with you on the wonderful sound of these V8s - nothing better!


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[lucidmatt]

As a recent purchaser of a 95k mile (now 105k mile car) fast approaching my one year anniversary I have gathered a few thoughts on this platform and the exact situation you find yourself in. I don't regret my choice one single day, for sure. I bought the car and it was without a doubt neglected, probably a 7/10 at time of purchase. I'd put it at an 8.5/10 now. I'll break down the first few months because it's been a complete joy to drive for at least the last 6 months with virtually zero hiccups.

First month of ownership(Purchased 10/2015): Oil change, air filter change, coil packs and spark plug replacement (everything I removed was cheapest quality-yikes!) front drivers side CV had split and was bone dry-replaced with a Raxles unit and I've loved it.
Second month: Numerous EPC codes, HID flicker issues, numerous bulb faults and other electronic gremlins with radio and comfort systems. VAGCOM helped diagnose many faults as voltage implausible signals and a new battery fixed 99% of these problems.
Third month: HID issues persist. "while I'm in there" mod: euro lights and CBI bulbs. find cracked bumper mounts, epoxy takes care of that. Headlights are issue free to this day.
Fourth month: fix leaking expansion tank, added engine bling (r8 oil cap, 911 cooant cap).

Unrelated to chasing quirks, I've done a paint correction, interior detail, regular oil changes and I recently installed a Tubi Rumore exhaust (amazing!) and replaced the paper air filter with an ITG foam filter. It's run strong and reliably with the exception of a random one time no start issue that threw a implausible signal code to the ecus. Not sure what caused it but it has been issue free. aside from that one incident.

Deferred maintenance/mods up next: Stoptech Brake pads, rotors, fluid, stainless steel lines; KW HAS reusing (perfect) DRC shocks; adjustable upper control arms to be replaced, carbon cleaning and oil separator replacement.


TL;DR: Just from driving, addressing deferred maintenance, and carrying on regular maintenance this car has come back from the brink of becoming a beater. It's now in the best condition its been in since the first owner and it turns heads everywhere I go.

ETA:Offer the seller 19k. use flaws for leverage, you can probably find a better deal with a high end indy shop than the dealership can offer, or especially do so if you're handy and can DIY. These cars are rare, but no more difficult than an A4 to do (90% of) work on. Fix the CV right away and pick away at the rest at your leisure, none sound catastrophic besides the axle. Have fun.

[d2a4]

Unrelated to chasing quirks, I've done a paint correction, interior detail, regular oil changes and I recently installed a Tubi Rumore exhaust (amazing!) and replaced the paper air filter with an ITG foam filter. It's run strong and reliably with the exception of a random one time no start issue that threw a implausible signal code to the ecus. Not sure what caused it but it has been issue free. aside from that one incident.

ETA:Offer the seller 19k. use flaws for leverage, you can probably find a better deal with a high end indy shop than the dealership can offer, or especially do so if you're handy and can DIY. These cars are rare, but no more difficult than an A4 to do (90% of) work on. Fix the CV right away and pick away at the rest at your leisure, none sound catastrophic besides the axle. Have fun.

No start is very likely stater (did that right after got mine)
I think he said the 6 items listed will be correct by the dealer. I would negotiate for a full CC and check DRC, those probably the biggest items

[jonan]

OP, i live in stamford too and am in the market for an RS4, i'm trying to find a sprint blue one though...back in 2007 when i was a few years into my first job out of college, a friend of mine worked at an audi dealership in westchester...he was my roommate at the time and he drove home in a brand new sprint blue rs4 since he could take any car home with him over the weekend, within reason of course...he let me drive it around town for a day and since then i've always dreamed of owning one of these cars...

let me know if you actually pick one up, i'd love to hear one of these motors roar in person again...

[lucidmatt]

No start is very likely stater (did that right after got mine)

Ah, I meant to elaborate: it was a crank, no start condition. it would cycle for the full 10 seconds but not fire over.

[your daddy]

Ah, I meant to elaborate: it was a crank, no start condition. it would cycle for the full 10 seconds but not fire over.

matt replace the ECM power control relays. cheap considering any other possibility. (they're in the E box)

[lucidmatt]

matt replace the ECM power control relays. cheap considering any other possibility. (they're in the E box)

That was my first thought, I'll do that before it happens again. Knock on wood it was a fluke but better safe than sorry.

[DAYTA]

Thanks everyone for their advice on what to do. Based on other asking prices I've seen, I agree that low $20ks seems like a decent price for a 6/10 RS4.

I know this will be blasphemy to most of you RS4 guys, but I think I would actually prefer to have an RS4 that shows some wear & tear. It's already alot of work worrying about my NSX...and I only put 2-3k miles per year on that car. If I had a pristine RS4, I would worry about it as well and I just don't want to be in that position with a car that will be ultimately be daily driven.

What limits my search the most is my need to sell the A6 before I can purchase an RS4. That means private party purchase is a timing/juggling act that I just don't have time for. The (indy) dealership that I'd be purchasing the car from is giving me a solid trade-in value, so the simplicity of the transaction makes it very appealing.

I guess to summarize, my question/concern to you guys would be - assuming all of the issues on my list are fixed by the dealer and I kept up with the basic maintenance of the car (fluids, CC, brakes/tires, etc), could I conceivably drive this car that already has 121k miles on it for another 4-5 years?

Also, should I be worried about what looks to be oil stains around the driver side valve cover? I'm guessing that's not a common occurrence with these cars - I'd be worried about excessive oil consumption, but I'm not sure how to check for that (compression/leakdown test?).

Another thing I forgot to mention - it was debadged. Not sure what that means about the previous owners...

[DAYTA]

Btw, forgot to post a few exterior pics I took. REALLY love the Avus Silver color (and I'm not normally a "silver" guy):

[RAudi Driver]

I think before you go and buy that silver RS4, go out and drive another one. Drive one with less miles and compare the difference.

I'm guessing that with 121k on the clock, you're gonna need clutch work, brakes, gaskets and possible seals. Don't take it lightly as these costs can run up pretty quick and before you know it, you'll be in to the car for over 30k and you'll regret it.

Also keep in mind that the car only has one key, another one is going to set you back another $350 estimated.

If the car still checks out and drives like other ones with less miles, and it's got original paint and body work, I'd say you have no reason to buy it.

Keep in mind that indy dealerships suck. I don't care what anyone says, they all suck! They are not making $3,000 on that car. They are going to make at least $4,000 to $5,000 on it, which means that they paid pennies for that car. There's a reason they got the car on the cheap.

Make your decision wisely. Also, run your car over to Carmax, you may be surprised at what they offer you.

[lucidmatt]

If the car still checks out and drives like other ones with less miles, and it's got original paint and body work, I'd say you have no reason to buy it.

Did you mean no reason not to buy it?

[4rings5stars]

This dealer is pretty straightforward. Bought my A4 from them 3 years ago and they were fairly accommodating with respect to my concerns. A number of members have purchased here and they often tend to have nice examples.

FYI, I typically don't post outside of the B7 A4 boards, but my son is in the market for an S car and we thought about going to look at this car.

Good luck with your search. I like your philosophy regarding a car that you can get a few scratches on and not care so much. You only live once!

[IronmanS4]

That car is at a dealership who's owner and main salesperson are friends of mine. That's where SFest has been held for the least 8 yrs. I think even at their asking of $22K that is a solid RS4 to start with. It won't be the end of the world if it eventually will need a clutch and better Carbon cleaning as my RS4 was transformed after those were last done.

Ask to see it from below if you're worried about the DRC, the leaking struts will be telltale as will the ride to be honest. The least high mileage RS4 they had didn't last all that long ...so I'd pull the trigger sooner than later.

[RAudi Driver]

Did you mean no reason not to buy it?

oops, yes I did.

[DAYTA]

This dealer is pretty straightforward. Bought my A4 from them 3 years ago and they were fairly accommodating with respect to my concerns. A number of members have purchased here and they often tend to have nice examples.

FYI, I typically don't post outside of the B7 A4 boards, but my son is in the market for an S car and we thought about going to look at this car.

Good luck with your search. I like your philosophy regarding a car that you can get a few scratches on and not care so much. You only live once!

Hey now...don't be sweeping this one from under me!

That car is at a dealership who's owner and main salesperson are friends of mine. That's where SFest has been held for the least 8 yrs. I think even at their asking of $22K that is a solid RS4 to start with. It won't be the end of the world if it eventually will need a clutch and better Carbon cleaning as my RS4 was transformed after those were last done.

Ask to see it from below if you're worried about the DRC, the leaking struts will be telltale as will the ride to be honest. The least high mileage RS4 they had didn't last all that long ...so I'd pull the trigger sooner than later.

Good to hear other people know/had experience with this dealership. Scott and Brian came highly recommended to me from my tuning shop (also a vendor here) Excelerate Performance, and my purchase experience with the A6 was excellent. These guys know their cars and are pretty selective of the ones they sell so I'm not worried about them hiding anything from me.

What does concern me is the reliability of parts that I hadn't considered. The car doesn't have service records so I don't know if things like ignition coils, water, pump, etc have been replaced (assuming they need to be replaced based on mileage?). The unknowns about its maintenance history have me worried, but as long as I can get it for a good price I'm thinking I should be ok? I will have Excelerate do a PPI for me to make sure the car is copacetic as well.

Let me reword my question - what do I need to look out for to ensure that a RS4 with 121k miles is reliable for the next 4-5 years? I don't have the money or (more importantly) time to throw at an unreliable DD.

[d2a4]

Let me reword my question - what do I need to look out for to ensure that a RS4 with 121k miles is reliable for the next 4-5 years? I don't have the money or (more importantly) time to throw at an unreliable DD.

Honestly, no one can tell you the answer since no one can predict the future. I bought my without PPI (10 min test drive), so consider you are lucky if the dealer let you do PPI (dragging the time this long, I am not surprise if it sold by the time you make you decision). My car has absolutely zero record. My gut feeling is the RS build quality is much different with the A4/S4. I probably more worry of electrical gremlin than mechanical (euro car).

[4rings5stars]

Hey now...don't be sweeping this one from under me!

Ha! No. He literally just pulled the trigger on a B5 Noggy Avant!

I say go for it. I had a good experience and they worked with me on a few issues. Solid dealer, imho

[lucidmatt]

OH! It's at Coventry? Definitely do it. Scott is one of the most stand up dudes I've met. The overall experience is awesome there, and he used to have a cherry 1995 S6 avant... not sure if he sold it or not.

I had the dubious honor of attending my first s-fest on what became known as the "s-fest to end all s-fests". It was wildly amusing, but I can totally understand why "the management" decided to kick everyone out at the end of the day from then on. Bonfires + dry grass + $1,000,000 worth of classic German autos can stress out anyone in charge.

[Chuuey]

OH! It's at Coventry? Definitely do it. Scott is one of the most stand up dudes I've met. The overall experience is awesome there, and he used to have a cherry 1995 S6 avant... not sure if he sold it or not.

I had the dubious honor of attending my first s-fest on what became known as the "s-fest to end all s-fests". It was wildly amusing, but I can totally understand why "the management" decided to kick everyone out at the end of the day from then on. Bonfires + dry grass + $1,000,000 worth of classic German autos can stress out anyone in charge.

He's got an RS6 now (also cherry). Coventry are good guys.

[mixtery]

Another plus for Coventry. Good dealer they know Audi quite well. I was interested in this car but ultimately will spend more to get lower miles. Either way maintenance is high price on these as they age but way less design flaws than say b7A4 which I have.

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[noob5]

Hahaha...I might as well jump on the Coventry Motorcar bandwagon as well.

Years ago I bought my RS with 38K miles from Scott, and have loved the car ever since!!!
I also went to go see a Ti B7 Avant he had on the lot a few months back, but didn't commit until I returned with wifey to get final approval (it was going to be her daily driven baby hauler). Unfortunately, another AZ member (small world) put a downpayment on it the night before we got there, so I ended up getting her a B8.5 allroad instead. LOL

Scott is very knowledgeable and is an enthusiast.
For what it's worth, he was willing to let me run VCDS on the car before purchase.

[lucidmatt]

I almost bought a BB RS4 from them before finding my current baby... but in the time between seeing the ad and calling Scott about a test drive, someone had already put a deposit down! I kind of want to take a trip down just to see that FF they want a quarter milli for!!

[DAYTA]

Really great to hear all the love for Coventry Motorcar. They are really good guys over there and I have no doubts they aren't hiding anything from me about the car. As I listed before, they identified problems with the car that they intend to address - I doubt most indy dealerships would do any of that.

Scott is letting me drive the RS4 an hour each way to Excelerate Performance tomorrow to get a PPI done (talk about trust!). I'll let you guys know how it goes.

[Bpitz15]

Good luck! Just a little heads up, I was passing through Coventry this past Saturday and I passed this car. Looks like someone else is test driving her !


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[RAudi Driver]

She's cheating on you.

[DAYTA]

Excelerate completed the PPI and found the same list of maintenance issues I listed in my first post as Coventry plus a few other things:

- clean frame, no signs of damage or rust.
- DRC showed some residue on 3 of the 4 shocks (passenger rear was replaced). Will need to be replaced eventually, but serviceable for now.
- low oil level indicator popped up, but we checked the oil level and it was fine. Most likely a bad sensor.
- VCDS scan showing that the active engine mounts needed to be replaced (didn't know the RS4 had active engine mounts?).
- clutch pedal had a slightly tricky engagement (not sure if it's a worn pressure plate vs aftermarket setup?), but zero slip.

After having driven the car on Friday for over 2 hours over 100+ miles through a mix of highway and backroads, I have to say...I'm having trouble finding fault in the car. Again, my concern is not how it drives now but how it will drive a year from now. The fact that Coventry acknowledges the issues and is willing to fix everything that is wrong with the car prior to delivery is making lean towards following through with the purchase despite my apprehensions about the high mileage.

Do you guys think it's worth it to do a compression/leakdown test even though it seems to drive ok?

[cmd4]

How it drive's now…and in a year from now can be said about ANY used car. Sounds like a descent deal and there's risk in any buying experience. If compression/leakdown will give ya peace of mind i'd do it…Also seems that they are going to do everything you want so i'd say your not going to find a better deal in that price point. GLWS

[RAudi Driver]

Compression test will take all of 20 minutes. I would do it.

[ven0m]

Compression test will take all of 20 minutes. I would do it.

Exactly as RAudi said. You won't feel 1 worn-out cylinder on a V8 - but if the cylinder wall goes completely and you loose compression on that single cylinder in a month from now your block will be useless. Do the test.