Changing intake cam

[pezgoon]

Edited because I didn't really make sense last night cause I was stressed lol

I have a few questions about this, so hopefully I remember them all

Do you have to put the car into service mode like the FSM states?

Do you have to remove the timing belt like the FSM states?

Does the cam wheel on the exhaust cam really need to come off?

Does the exhaust cam seal that requires a special tool to remove and put in really need to be replaced?

Does the gaps really need to be check with plasti gauges when putting the new cam in?

Thats all I can remember at this moment thanks.

Also if anyone knows of any resources about doing this it would be much appreciated as to pointing me in that direction as I am using the FSM and timing chain repairs as the only source of info that I have been able to locate on the internets and have been getting half of the info on doing this from people who have removed the cradle while doing the timing chain or mention in passing that they had to replace their intake cam... apparently nobody wants to talk about it or share their info on it? lol

Thanks all

[pezgoon]

Bumped because I edited it to actually make sense, any info would be much appreciated!

[aluthman]

I have never done this in the car, but I know it's possible. I always pulled the head whenever I was doing this type of work. There are a couple ways to do this, but the answer to most of your questions is yes either way. I would personnaly suggest pulling the head, and removing the cam tray out of the car. The cam tray holds both cams in place, so removing it will allow you to pull both cams. There is no special tool needed to replace the exhaust cam seal if you remove it from the head. Although checking cam bearing clearances is never a bad idea, you can probably get away with just tossing a new cam in and calling it a day.

[Charles.waite]

I did it in the car. I however also bundled in a timing service though so I already had the front clip off. Frankly I would absolutely take the front end off. Because you have to remove the belt to remove the cams and its WAY more hassle than its worth to try to do it without removing the belt.

here is a pic of how I had the car when I did mine:



if I were to do it again, I would just pull the damn head and do it all on the bench. I nearly threw my back out leaning over the engine so long...

Also I stepped on the AC Condenser and bled some refrigerant out and my AC has been a bit weak ever since. But that was just me being dumb.

Exhaust cam wheel doesn't need to come off. you don't need to plastiguage the cam bearings either. If there is visible damage to them then maybe, but I wouldn't bother checking clearances unless the engine has a ton of miles.

[pezgoon]

Thanks for the info guys, I should have specified a bit that I am not pulling the exhaust cam I am only replacing the intake cam but let me give a little more info to clarify whats going on.

A fellow AZ'er had his cam follower blown out for probably 30-50k and destroyed the end of the HPFP and obviously the cam along with it, although he knows this guarentees there is other engine damage to the bearings, rods, pistons oil pump etc, he doesn't want to deal with tearing the engine apart at this time as the car is barely driven and just wants help with bandaging the issue for now and will deal with a new engine down the road. We also do not have a garage to work with or a bench at all and have to have it done in one weekend, we will be working in his driveway with probably a canopy over our heads so pulling the head is not an option (I know how awful it will be and how back my knees and back will hurt but we have no choice) and I reeeeaaaally do not want to put the car in service mode, because we are only going to be replacing the intake cam, is it still required to pull the belt? I do know to pull the belt the car has to be in service mode and I am trying to avoid that at all costs

Have other questions but gotta get back to work, there is a seal that the FSM specifies a special tool for will post about later today

Thanks for the info!

[Charles.waite]

You can't "just pull the intake cam". When you remove the cam cradle you're ostensibly removing both cams.

Given your restraints, you definitely don't NEED to pull the front clip off. That working situation sucks, but you gotta do what you gotta do. You could probably get away with not removing the belt, but you need to make sure you mark the belt and leave it tensioned so you can be sure it doesn't skip timing at all.

Last bit, make sure to get some good scrapers and something to dissolve the factory cam cradle sealant (if such a thing even exists) because that was BY FAR the most time consuming part of the whole job for me. I used Elring Dirko sealant I think, the factory stuff is way overpriced, I was recommended the Elring stuff by IE and they know their shit. Its held up just fine.

[pezgoon]

You can't "just pull the intake cam". When you remove the cam cradle you're ostensibly removing both cams.

Given your restraints, you definitely don't NEED to pull the front clip off. That working situation sucks, but you gotta do what you gotta do. You could probably get away with not removing the belt, but you need to make sure you mark the belt and leave it tensioned so you can be sure it doesn't skip timing at all.

Last bit, make sure to get some good scrapers and something to dissolve the factory cam cradle sealant (if such a thing even exists) because that was BY FAR the most time consuming part of the whole job for me. I used Elring Dirko sealant I think, the factory stuff is way overpriced, I was recommended the Elring stuff by IE and they know their shit. Its held up just fine.

Ok, sorry I said that incorrectly, I meant we were replacing only the intake cam and not both, your right with removing the cradle is essentially removing both cams, I just meant we have no intention of physically taking the exhaust cam out of the car.

It definitely is going to suck haha, I'm hoping I can clear a spot in my garage bay to do it but I am not sure if that will happen so I am planning for worst case in the beginning and if it isn't then that is just a benefit.

I'm guessing acetone won't help much with dissolving it away? I'm planning on using plastic scrapers so we don't have any chance of scratching the cradle as I know it is essentially ruined at that point, thanks for the suggestion on the sealant as I was gonna go with the VW stuff as that's what ECS has listed in their camshaft kit and I knew of no alternatives to it so that will help him save some money, thanks for all the info so far

[Charles.waite]

Acetone might work. I used this crappy foam gasket remover that barely did shit. The factory sealant is like a hard candy coating, like a jolly rancher, minus the whole "dissolves in water" part. Its seriously awful. I was totally unprepared for it, but maybe someone has found something that is able to soften it sufficiently to get it off in less than 5 hours...

Yea being a bit over prepared in this case is generally worthwhile. And in theory the cam cradle bolts are torque to yield (one time use), however I reused mine and haven't had any issues in 20k miles. I don't think there is much else to worry about though. Its a slow, annoying job, but nothing too tricky. Be sure to get a low profile ratchet with either T25 or T30 torx bits (can't remember which) for the rear timing cover.