Cam Chain & Tensioner Replacement Question

[AudiKilla]

Hey guys,

So I am in the middle of replacing my chain and the tensioner. Looks like the B version cam (pic below)?


It's an 06 audi you think it's been already changed before?


However just noticed the guide I was following said to replace the guide frame bolts as they are stretch bolts. Is this necessary? Because if you look at the cam chain service kit by ECS, it doesn't include any guide frame stretch bolts:
https://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B7_A4....0T/ES2718947/

[Denio24]

The hpfp cam lobe is the newer revision one. Looks like it was replaced. I'll edit my post in a few about the bolts, and yes if they are stretch bolts they should be replaced as it is an internal engine component.

So i'm assuming you're removing the camshafts for the tensioner/chain install since you don't want to mess with the camshaft? The bolts that hold the guide frame which holds the camshafts down is done in three phases <---- These bolts must be replaced. (Tighten by hand - 8 Nm - and 90 degree stretch)

[vvenom800tt]

Just undo the poly drive bolt on the exhaust cam. Dont start fucking wtih the girdle

[Okedokey]

Yeah, no need for removing those.

[AudiKilla]

I thought you have to remove the girdle in order to change the chain and tensioner while using the T10252 to hold the cam in place? I am not replacing the cam.

Got all the timing tools for the job too...

[Okedokey]

Nope, just remove the cam bolt and you can remove the gear and then the tensioner and then the chain.

[AudiKilla]

Nope, just remove the cam bolt and you can remove the gear and then the tensioner and then the chain.

No need to worry about messing the timing this way?

[Okedokey]

You still need to lock down the cams.

[AudiKilla]

You still need to lock down the cams.

How to lock cams without opening top? Maybe we are not talking about the same thing here, I may have caused the confusion not sure if the top part is called cam girdle.

Do I have to lock cam with tool just like in the picture below?

[AudiKilla]

So sorry my fault, just checked it's called the valve cover, that's what I was referring to not cam girdle. So remove valve cover to lock down cams. No need to change the bolts on valve cover?

[crazyquik22023]

So sorry my fault, just checked it's called the valve cover, that's what I was referring to not cam girdle. So remove valve cover to lock down cams. No need to change the bolts on valve cover?

No need to replace valve cover bolts. Make sure to not over torque them either when re-tightening them down. They require very low torque. It's around 10 Nm if I remember correctly.

[Danne_gg]

Nope, just remove the cam bolt and you can remove the gear and then the tensioner and then the chain.

I had to remove the girdle when I did this a few years ago.
The bolt holding the exhaust cam wheel kind of exploded (I had the specific torxalike tool for the bolt), heard it's quite common.
Removing the girdle was not that hard, and in the process I got a girdle not leaking oil (factory installment had started leaking)

[Okedokey]

The VC bolts are stretch bolts and need to be replaced according to ElsaWin.

[AudiKilla]

Is there anyway to check if the engine has ever been replaced? Just want to be sure there was no damage before.

It's an 06 audi and seems like someone replaced the cam with the updated version. The fuel pump, cam and follower look pretty good, no damage on pump at all. I am the third owner and the guy before didn't have any maintenance receipts nor did he tell me if any work on cam was done. Just said he changed timing belt but all the hoses connected to the engine seem to have been opened up before by someone as the clamps are not original.

The car is at 150 000KM now, was bought at around 120K.

[Theiceman]

Follow this video. Although not perfect is a very good idea how to do it

https://youtu.be/BuzsBQndgdQ

Also seriously doubt VC bolts are stretch bolts. Had mine off a few times with zero leaks.

[atvhead]

TTY VC bolts? nope

[AudiKilla]

How do you turn the engine to align the cams so I can lock it with the tool?

It can only be done from the Crankshaft bolt?

[vvenom800tt]

The VC bolts are stretch bolts and need to be replaced according to ElsaWin.

No theyre not. Elsawin is a fucking liar

[rongeur]

How do you turn the engine to align the cams so I can lock it with the tool?

It can only be done from the Crankshaft bolt?

You have to turn it from below, 12 point 3/4 socket. You should be able to sneak from below without placing the front in service mode. Turn it clockwise until the timing marks line up and the rear lobes are just pointing slightly cross-eyed. This will mark cylinder 1 TDC and the cam position tool should drop right in.

You can try to turn the motor using the front exhaust gear bolt but you may end up shearing it in the process. If you try this, take out your spark plugs to help engine turnover and avoid excess compression buildup making turning the engine much harder.

[Okedokey]

Why do you have to turn it from below. Just use a breaker bar and appropriate socket and turn it from above?

Regarding the VC bolts, they're $3 each approx, worth replacing as they have individual seals, whether you agree that they're TTY or not. Worth doing properly.

[AudiKilla]

How exactly do you turn the engine from above?

I can't do it from bottom cause I'm missing the 12 point socket! Need to find one, hard to find here in Canada.

[Theiceman]

He meant do it on the same bolt but from the top. I find it a pain with stuff in the way. Doing it from the bottom is easy.
Also they are cam aligning tools not cam locking tools. You still need to lock the exhaust cam or you are likely to destroy the tool.

Just watch the video. Then come back with questions. It's all explained

can you dig it ??

[Theiceman]

You have to turn it from below, 12 point 3/4 socket. You should be able to sneak from below without placing the front in service mode. Turn it clockwise until the timing marks line up and the rear lobes are just pointing slightly cross-eyed. This will mark cylinder 1 TDC and the cam position tool should drop right in.

You can try to turn the motor using the front exhaust gear bolt but you may end up shearing it in the process. If you try this, take out your spark plugs to help engine turnover and avoid excess compression buildup making turning the engine much harder.

I doubt it's speced at 3/4 as its an Audi. Anyone know the real size ? Is it 19mm based on the fact a 3/4 will fit ?

[audinutt]

I doubt it's speced at 3/4 as its an Audi. Anyone know the real size ? Is it 19mm based on the fact a 3/4 will fit ?

19mm and 3/4 interchange and yes 19mm is the correct size

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

[rongeur]

He meant do it on the same bolt but from the top. I find it a pain with stuff in the way. Doing it from the bottom is easy.
Also they are cam aligning tools not cam locking tools. You still need to lock the exhaust cam or you are likely to destroy the tool.

Just watch the video. Then come back with questions. It's all explained

can you dig it ??

Hehe, that guy is aces

I doubt it's speced at 3/4 as its an Audi. Anyone know the real size ? Is it 19mm based on the fact a 3/4 will fit ?

See below

19mm and 3/4 interchange and yes 19mm is the correct size

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

Good luck finding 19mm 12pt for reasonable price. German obscure tax or 5 dollars at Sears....

As far as access from the top, probably possible but much more difficult than it needs to be. I have catch can hoses and rerouted valve cover hoses in the way as well. #bigturboproblems

[RakkCity]

Hehe, that guy is aces



See below



Good luck finding 19mm 12pt for reasonable price. German obscure tax or 5 dollars at Sears....

As far as access from the top, probably possible but much more difficult than it needs to be. I have catch can hoses and rerouted valve cover hoses in the way as well. #bigturboproblems

I have a 10 year old craftsman socket set that has one. I’ll rent it out for $25 haha


Sent from my iPhone using Audizine mobile app

[Okedokey]

Im confused. Before removing the timing bolt from the cam, turn it to rotate the engine and align with the locking tool. Then lock the cams and then remove the bolt. Really not that hard. The tool you need is http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Volkswage...-/302011661133

[AudiKilla]

Can you guys look at the picture attached below. Looks like 2 holes in the engine where I'm holding the screw driver.


Does it seem normal?

[rongeur]

From my memory, normal drainage to sump.

[AudiKilla]

Where exactly does the "Camshaft Adjuster Valve O-Ring" have to be installed? I don't see it anywhere on the adjuster I took off.

[Okedokey]

Where exactly does the "Camshaft Adjuster Valve O-Ring" have to be installed? I don't see it anywhere on the adjuster I took off.

[AudiKilla]

Oh man thank you, does anyone know the torque on the tensioner bolt? Can't seem to find it in any guide, is it 14nm?

[Okedokey]

Cam adjuster bolt is 15 lbs plus additional 1/8 turn
Tensioner bolt is 7 lbs
Valve cover bolts are 7 lbs.
Cam chain case cover is 7 lbs
hpfp bolts are 7lbs
banjo bolt on fuel pump is 13 lbs
union nut on hpfp is 18 lbs

[AudiKilla]

Cam adjuster bolt is 15 lbs plus additional 1/8 turn
Tensioner bolt is 7 lbs
Valve cover bolts are 7 lbs.
Cam chain case cover is 7 lbs
hpfp bolts are 7lbs
banjo bolt on fuel pump is 13 lbs
union nut on hpfp is 18 lbs

Thank you you are awesome!

One last question, do I need to put sealant on the valve cover gasket?

[Okedokey]

No, you shouldn't. You need to clean the mating surface and replace the gasket with a new one.

[AudiKilla]

One of the cam adjust seals broke before I could put everything back seems to be pretty expensive for such a tiny thing.

[Okedokey]

Yep, needs replacing too.

[AudiKilla]

Would you change all 3 seals or just the one that broke?

[Okedokey]

You can only probably buy them in 3's so if so replace all. When you do align each with their gap and compress all together as you insert.

[AudiKilla]

So put everything back. Started engine, it was shaking every few seconds at first but after 10 mins no more shaking.

Checked with my scanner, there was a pending code cylinder 3 misfire. Dunno why coils and plugs were pretty new replaced last year. Will pull them out again and check.

Gonna drive for a few days see if anything is wrong then.

I did notice a bit of oil if I use my flash from phone on the left side of the valve cover on the gasket. It's a bit shiny, will have to drive it more and see if it gets worse or not.

But I did torque the valve cover to 10NM and in the right pattern as the guide showed.

Oh and engine is definitely more quiet, no more tapping sound from the back of the engine. I used to hear the sound inside the car too now no more it's very quiet.

I just hope timing is good, what you guys think.