transmission removal on a 2000 A6 quattro 2.7t

[Osmosis]

Greetings everybody,

I recently have noticed a few codes, and O2 sensor bank 2, sensor 2 and a P0741 I have a few questions regarding doing this project.

I have had swapped out plenty of Chevy transmissions, mostly the 700r4's...not fun.

I am looking at the Audi A6 2.7t Quattro and removing my TIP transmission and wondering if I need any special tools for removal of the transmission. I assume that I should probably have a trans jack or attachment for a trans adapter to my floor jack.

Jack stands and ramps. I plan on removing and replacing my CV joints while I'm at it, & my drivers side O2 sensors since they are a PITA to remove & maybe doing my oil seals on my turbo's...maybe on that one. I am burning oil too ( no leaks and good compression). Maybe .....we will see.

Also, quick side question. Considering either rebuilding my turbos or purchasing a K04 cartridge if it will go into my stock turbo housing. Will the K04 cartridge fit in the stock turbo housing? I figure if I can easily upgrade the turbo...sure, if not, I'll keep her stock.

Will I need any special tools or gaskets such as the thrust ring and the washer I see on the online manual? I've never had to replace such items on my 700r4...and I know that the TIP transmission is different, hence why I'm asking

also, when you seat the converter, it is a double click as my 700r4's so it seats on the 2 sets of splines? Is there a designated depth from the bell housing to where the converter is seated? I think I found 10mm from the housing to the front of the converter?

Access to the bolts that hold the transmission on to the engine block? Any special locations, tricks or tools?
Also, removal of the rear driveline. Does that require any special tools or know how? I looked under the car and it's completely covered by some heat shields. I'm just not all that familiar with the Audi's and I want to prepare to avoid any problems.

Thank you!

[spacecadet]

unless you have a lift I'd say its much easier to pull the tranny with the motor on these cars.

[spacecadet]

I have read that some drive shaft bolts are triple square, mine were allen;however, if you don't have any triple square drivers something to be aware of

[Osmosis]

Thanks for the info. I think I"m going to opt not to remove the engine. I've removed plenty....plenty of transmissions, most were Chevy's 700r4's. Just not aware of the little differences of German engineering. gonna take my time and do it right. Thankfully, I've a second vehicle. I did change my oil and I've not seen the code 0741 yet. I"m sure it will pop up soon :(

[spacecadet]

In that case dropping the sub frame down is key to getting the lower Bell housing bolts. Good luck 😃

[brokenwrench]

If you're planning on "taking your time to do it right", just plan on pulling the engine and tip together. In the end you'll save yourself so much time and headache, plus there are several things you should do for your engine, a lot easier when it's out. If you've pulled one of these before, I would say go ahead and try to leave the engine in, but you'll need to pull the subframe to reach the trans bolts anyways, remove the axles (which did have triple-square head bolts on both of my cars) and release the lower suspension to pull the axles away from the trans, pull the engine forward to release the TC from trans which will require pulling the lock carrier/radiator anyways. All of this while supporting the engine in the vehicle without breaking any wires/hoses/fittings. Honestly, it would be like a couple more wires/cables and a few more bolts and the whole shittery comes out as a unit. There's like an inch of clearance around the trans when it's installed to reach the bolts you'll need to undo and no room for it to move back to seperate from the engine, I don't know how a guy would even manage the first time.



My advice, take it or leave it:
Don't use any tools to seperate any of the wiring connectors, they WILL break. Take your time and gently push them apart at the clip with your finger, if they're stuck, gently pull the two halves together while pressing back on the clip, you'll hear a "cick" sound when they can be seperated (I know this sounds like a "stand on your head while spinning around while juggling flaming kittens" kind of instruction, trust me it's a lot easier to be patient than replace connectors).

After you've removed the lock carrier and all wiring connectors/hoses in the engine bay, it's like 10 easy to reach bolts to drop the subframe. Plan on seperating the suspension from the subframe, but you can leave the turn knuckles, struts and brakes intact. You'll only need a standard floor jack and maybe a few blocks of wood or jack stands to support the engine/trans/subframe once they're pulled free.

Watch this video for removing the engine (has a lot of good points, just don't seperate the engine/trans until AFTER you've unhooked the engine and the subframe):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YFm4utgahZM

Regardless of how you get the trans out, plan on replacing the driveline-to-trans gasket. You should also plan on replacing the valve cover and cam gaskets since they're prone to leaking. The timing belt/water pump if it hasn't been done recently. The braided vacuum/fuel lines throughout the engine. Check your cam chain tensioners.

If you would like to upgrade your turbos, it's just a requirement to pull the engine anyways don't even plan on trying to reach them otherwise. And no, the internals for the K04 (or any other turbo I'm aware of) will not fit inside the K03 housing. If you want the "affordable" turbo upgrade option, you could plan on getting Frankenturbos and bigger intercoolers, silicone intake pressure fittings and upgraded diverter valves (much discussion on which are best, I'll let others provide input here since my project is planned to be far and away beyond what most people here have done), bigger fuel injectors and upgraded fuel pump.

Again, this is just my two-cents. Take it how you want. But even after pulling the engine/trans out of 2 cars, I don't think I would attempt to do it with the engine still in the car.

[Osmosis]

So, after watching this video (thank you brokenwrench), I beleive can just remove the engine after removing the bell housing bolts, converter bolts, starter bolts,....exhaust bolts??? and I can leave the transmission in place, then swap out torque converter? By looking at the video, this seems very possible.

Thank you for the help!

[brokenwrench]

If you're only needing to get to the front of the tranny, I think you can absolutely leave it in place. You should still plan on releasing the subframe to drop it down a bit, just not take it all the way out. Only thing is if you're leaving the tranny in place, you'll probably have to disconnect the exhaust at the back side of the turbos, major PITA to reach those bolts though, especially the heat shields. If you take the tranny out, you can unhook the exhaust at the tail end of the DP's, just behind the tranny, so much easier.

[rollerton]

So, after watching this video (thank you brokenwrench), I beleive can just remove the engine after removing the bell housing bolts, converter bolts, starter bolts,....exhaust bolts??? and I can leave the transmission in place, then swap out torque converter? By looking at the video, this seems very possible.

Thank you for the help!

THAT ^ is not the way you want to do it. I know people who drop the trans alone and sometimes it can make sense. And I know people who pull the engine AND trans for certain reasons. And that can also make sense much of the time.
But you'll almost never find a reason to pull just the engine alone. Most of the hassle of the whole project involves the bellhousing bolts, front end into service position and coolant drain, refill and bleeding and a few PITA fittings. So you want to minimize having to deal with the smallest/ shitty-est things. And MOST of them involve seperating the engine from the car or the engine from the transmission.
If you drop the subframe, remove axles, driveshaft (it's way easier than you think), remove the exhaust (very easy), and shift linkage then you're most of the way to having the entire thing out together. Personally I find removing the shift linkage, exhaust and driveshaft pretty damn easy.
And for sure it's WAY easier than a few of the bellhousing bolts.
Once you have those ^ things I listed removed you drain the coolant, yank the harness w/ ECU, pull the front bumper (remove and hang the A/C ) and the whole package comes out.
IF I was going to attempt those bellhousing bolts I'd only do it to drop the trans because the axles, driveshaft, exhaust feels like less headache than pulling the front end off I think. Maybe it's just me but a couple of the bellhousing bolts are just ridiculous to get to. And if they've never been loosened since day 1...? No fun.

[Osmosis]

Thank you guys for the info. I'm trying to wrap my head around this PITA project. It looks feasible to just remove the engine...looks :( I obviously need to do more research and reading on this topic. I'm not sure which route I'm gonna take, pull the trans only, pull the engine only or both. Just from my experience with my hotrods (all chevy's and 700R4's) I have always dropped the trans under the vehicle supported by jack stands which I'm comfortable with doing...except with the Audi's. They seem to be a bit more alien to me. If I do pull the engine, I may just dig into the timing belt and chain tensioner since I"ll be in there anyway. Just another step. We will see ;)


Thankfully, I can drive my truck and park my Audi till I decide on what to do with her. I hate to sell my Audi, she's been a great car, drives very nice, comfortable and preforms great in the snow. To replace her.....I would need to spend a lot more that the repairs needed. For now, it's just a mater of time before I get tools and organize my garage for the project.

Thanks for all the suggestions and ideas, still brewing a plan of attack.

[Royal769sr]

Thank you guys for the info. I'm trying to wrap my head around this PITA project. It looks feasible to just remove the engine...looks :( I obviously need to do more research and reading on this topic. I'm not sure which route I'm gonna take, pull the trans only, pull the engine only or both. Just from my experience with my hotrods (all chevy's and 700R4's) I have always dropped the trans under the vehicle supported by jack stands which I'm comfortable with doing...except with the Audi's. They seem to be a bit more alien to me. If I do pull the engine, I may just dig into the timing belt and chain tensioner since I"ll be in there anyway. Just another step. We will see ;)


Thankfully, I can drive my truck and park my Audi till I decide on what to do with her. I hate to sell my Audi, she's been a great car, drives very nice, comfortable and preforms great in the snow. To replace her.....I would need to spend a lot more that the repairs needed. For now, it's just a mater of time before I get tools and organize my garage for the project.

Thanks for all the suggestions and ideas, still brewing a plan of attack.

Just because... I ALWAYS pull just the motor.
All those people that say it's easier to pull everything has lost their minds!! It's so much harder and way more work.
He'll I can change my flywheel without even having to drain my oil, or remove my ac compressor.
I had to rebuild my transmission so I finally pulled it out together and what a Biotch!.
If you don't believe me or wish to continue doing it the hard way no sweat off my back. Just trying to help.

Pulling motor alone saves you not removing axles, fighting trans mount upon removal, rebleeding the clutch, dealing with shift linkages and depending on what you're doing, oil, and ac removal.

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[Royal769sr]

And the audi trans is fn heavy

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