High mileage RS4 - what to look out for?

[DAYTA]

I bought a 2010 A6 just a few months ago. While I think is a perfect DD, I'm already a bit bored by it so I've been looking around for an RS4.

Coincidentally, the dealer I purchased my A6 from (whom I trust) told me that he just got a 07 RS4 in yesterday. The problem is that it has really high mileage (121k). The dealer said they don't have much service history on the car other than a clean 2-owner CarFax. They will give it a once over to confirm everything looks OK.

So far, I've come up with this list of things to check:

- carbon cleaning
- DRC
- clutch
- pads/rotors (brake job is insanely expensive)
- fluids (oil, coolant, brake, diff)
- clunk in rear, possibly replace rear diff mount

Am I missing anything else?

To confirm my situation, I won't drive it much. It will be my DD and my current commute is 8-10 miles roundtrip. As reference, I've had my A6 for 4.5 months and have put just over 1500 miles on it.

Should I be worried about a high mileage RS4?

[MugelloB7RS4]

Check to see if the oil cooler lines are leaking at the cooler.

I have a 145k RS4 and I love it.

[hotcury]

Compression and tranny check

[roboto_1337]

Compression and tranny check

yeah... compression, check the coil packs/spark plugs for signs of bad gaskets... also the plugs should tell you how the engine has been running.

Check for rattle on cold and warm starts (timing chain tensioners/mechanical cam adjustors/head oil supply check valve). Make sure the A/C compressor is good.

[S42RS4]

yeah... compression, check the coil packs/spark plugs for signs of bad gaskets... also the plugs should tell you how the engine has been running.

Check for rattle on cold and warm starts (timing chain tensioners/mechanical cam adjustors/head oil supply check valve). Make sure the A/C compressor is good.

RS4 don't have cold or warm start rattles. Timing components are more stronger than the S4

[jakeoboy67]

RS4 don't have cold or warm start rattles. Timing components are more stronger than the S4

I thought they shared most components on the timing side, except adjusters ?

same tensioners, guides everything ?

this leads to another question : does the rs4 engine have the same oil checkvalves in the valley ? like the BHF ?

[DAYTA]

I also heard the RS4 engines are far more robust than the S4 engine, which is the only reason why I'd consider a high mileage car. If this is not the case, please correct me.

What do I need to look out for with the tranny? I know it's case by case, but I will assume the clutch needs to be replaced if it has 121k miles - any RS4-specific tranny issues I need to worry about?

[e36graduate]

Currently own a 2007 RS4 for last 3+ years and put about 60K miles - at 115K now.

If you are a DIY then I would probably buy it. If you are not a DIY, and have money to spend, I would probably buy it. If you don't have money and are not a DIY, probably suggest buying a Honda or something else. This is a performance car (RS = Race Sport).

1. Probably the most common failure is the upper control arms - not a big issue but i bet they are shot.
2. Clutch? Mine is original and I don't baby this car, then again I don't dump the clutch. Put the car in a higher gear with hand brake on and see if it slips. Test drive it.
3. Transmission - didn't know RS4's have tranny issues......I would see how the tranny shifts between the lower gears like 1 to 2....2 to 3. Synchros could be worn depending on past drivers. Again, drive it, shift it, etc. If there is a problem, you will feel it. These RS4's are a little tricky to drive...especially if you are easy on the gas. When I try to baby my car, it will buck a bit inbetween shifting.
4. Brakes.....big deal. If you are a DIY - the rotors are expensive and finding a good pad that works isn't too bad on the wallet. My front rotors are $400 each, but they are big and pretty....last a long time. Take for a spirited drive and see how they feel....rotors warped?
5. Axle Boots - check for leaks.
6. Look for other fluid leaks.....lower radiators, etc.
7. Probably have the license plate bulb warning....LOL
8. VAG check it for hidden problems....misfires.
9. Carbon cleaning. I did mine last year and it wakes up that sweet motor. Easy but long DIY process, save you $800 - $1500 depending on who does it.
10. Listen for any knocking noises in motor. The RS4 has totally different chain, tensioners, etc and not prone to the S4 issues.
11. I would probably ask for a leak down and/or compression test. Just make sure that engine is solid so you don't wind up with a oil burning, scored engine block.
12. Watch for significant smoke on cold start up. They tend to smoke a bit at first, don't let this scare you.
13. Oil cooler hoses at oil cooler are a good suggestion to look at. Mine seem okay at 115K.
14. Depending on where you are, either have a local RS4 enthusiast go with you or pay for PPI.

Bottom line, drive the crap out of the car and see if anything is wrong. Does it have a nice kick at about 5500 rpm's? You should feel it. Who is the dealer?

[DAYTA]

I am not a DIYer, but I would also not shy away from a $1k+ repair bill. And for the record, my fun car IS a reliable Honda (see sig) so that's where I'd be able to offset the cost of a high mileage RS4 as my DD.

How much does it cost to replace the front upper control arms?

The dealer selling the RS4 is a place that my main tech shop (Excelerate Performance) recommended to me. They sold me my Audi A6 a few months ago, both the car and my experience with them was great. I would have Excelerate do the PPI for me to make sure everything is copacetic, and any potential issues would be repaired by them so I know it will get done right.

To confirm, I don't plan to drive this car more than 8k miles a year. Assuming I am willing to replace all necessary components (clutch, brakes, upper control arms, carbon cleaning etc), is it conceivable to have a high mileage RS4 run without issue for another 40-50k miles?

[dufferdude]

RS = Renn Sport
Call and ask around about shops that work on cars like the RS4. A PPI has been mentioned, money well spent imo. Good write up e36grad.
Why not do a stage 2 pulley tune on the A6? I had one done on my old A6 Avant and it was just as fast as my RS4.

[VroomTT]

RS = Renn Sport
Call and ask around about shops that work on cars like the RS4. A PPI has been mentioned, money well spent imo. Good write up e36grad.
Why not do a stage 2 pulley tune on the A6? I had one done on my old A6 Avant and it was just as fast as my RS4.

OP said he has a 2010 A6. You are referring to the 3.0t here for the stg2 pulley tune? I'm pretty sure those only became available in 2011 with the newer design.

Def agree that a PPI is worth it for any perf car purchase of this type, especially if you have a shop you work with already.

[d2a4]

OP: it is not really high. I have 166K DD right now (got it in Jan 2016, by that time I thought I have the highest miles but then I learn another one is 175K also DD).

[DAYTA]

Why not do a stage 2 pulley tune on the A6? I had one done on my old A6 Avant and it was just as fast as my RS4.

OP said he has a 2010 A6. You are referring to the 3.0t here for the stg2 pulley tune? I'm pretty sure those only became available in 2011 with the newer design.

I already have the APR stage 1 tune on my 2010 A6 (available for all C6.5 MY09-11). No question, it's a pretty quick car - probably close to a stock RS4 stats (0-60 mid 4s, 1/4-mi low 13s).

I could probably put coils + sway bars on the C6 to improve the handling a bit, but it still just feels very big and heavy to me. And it will never come close to sounding as good as the RS4...LOVE that high-revving V8.

[DAYTA]

OP: it is not really high. I have 166K DD right now (got it in Jan 2016, by that time I thought I have the highest miles but then I learn another one is 175K also DD).

How many miles did your car have when you bought it? What maintenance items did you have to go over and/or replace following the purchase?

I may go up and see the car later this week. Aside from a visual inspection, I want to make sure it drives as well as I remember when I drove one many years back.

[d2a4]

How many miles did your car have when you bought it? What maintenance items did you have to go over and/or replace following the purchase?

I may go up and see the car later this week. Aside from a visual inspection, I want to make sure it drives as well as I remember when I drove one many years back.

165K, no PPI (I know I should) so far 8 months all I did is the starter and AUX radiator and the usual plugs, oils, total out less than $500

[DAYTA]

Sorry I'm confused - it's your DD, but you've only put 1k miles on it in 8 months?

[d2a4]

Sorry I'm confused - it's your DD, but you've only put 1k miles on it in 8 months?

Around 2K, actually as I work close to home, 16 miles round trip. I wish the drive is longer with RS4

[DAYTA]

Around 2K, actually as I work close to home, 16 miles round trip. I wish the drive is longer with RS4

Go out on the weekends and make the drives longer!

Living in CT, I only get to enjoy my NSX for 6 months out of the year - from Nov to Apr, I'm stuck just looking at it in the garage. I want an RS4 so I can drive to/from work (12 miles round trip) on weekdays, then enjoy the crap out of it on the weekends...any time of year.

[d2a4]

Go out on the weekends and make the drives longer!

Living in CT, I only get to enjoy my NSX for 6 months out of the year - from Nov to Apr, I'm stuck just looking at it in the garage. I want an RS4 so I can drive to/from work (12 miles round trip) on weekdays, then enjoy the crap out of it on the weekends...any time of year.

Just did last weekend 250 miles trip (with the exhaust vacuum pump unplug, so much better). Bingo, RS4 is much versatile in your neck of the wood compare with my bone dry CA, but I still enjoy it so much.

[TypeRx]

While there is nothing wrong with driving <8K/year (I drive my RS like 4-5K/year), this isn't the right car to go only 8-10 miles per drive, IMO. The oil will barely be up to temp at the end of your drive and my guess is that you will have a lot more sludge buildup as well as carbon build up than you would see if you drove the car longer distances at a time. Since maintenance/repair costs on this car are rather high, i dunno...I would just find something "fun" that won't be as expensive to maintain. WRX, Focus, etc. Just a thought.

[BCsniper]

With these cars getting older people are starting to see issues with their HPFP's (high pressure fuel pumps).

Not a huge deal but another high dollar expense much like the RS brakes

[DAYTA]

While there is nothing wrong with driving <8K/year (I drive my RS like 4-5K/year), this isn't the right car to go only 8-10 miles per drive, IMO. The oil will barely be up to temp at the end of your drive and my guess is that you will have a lot more sludge buildup as well as carbon build up than you would see if you drove the car longer distances at a time. Since maintenance/repair costs on this car are rather high, i dunno...I would just find something "fun" that won't be as expensive to maintain. WRX, Focus, etc. Just a thought.

You raise a good point. My commute is barely long enough (if at all) for the engine to fully warm up. However, I doubt a car driven 8k miles per year in stop/go traffic will need any more carbon cleanings than one driven 12-15k highway miles over the same period of time. My guess is both situations will require a carbon clean once every 2-3 years. As I mentioned before, this wouldn't strictly be relegated to DD duty. I also plan to have fun with the car on the weekends (read: winding the engine out) so that should offset some of the buildup.

I understand maintenance costs on this car can be high. As long as there aren't any potentially catastrophic issues (ie S4 timing chain issue), I am most likely willing to pay to play so I can hear that V8 on a daily basis.

With these cars getting older people are starting to see issues with their HPFP's (high pressure fuel pumps).

Not a huge deal but another high dollar expense much like the RS brakes

Interesting, hadn't read about HPFP failures but it makes sense. How many owners have seen this issue pop up?

I looked up the cost for a rebuild - $2k isn't a cheap fix. Another thing to add to the list...

[BCsniper]

It isn't seen too often with owners who are stock or don't drive the hell out of their cars. On a stock car I think you've got to Rev the piss out of it before you can hear the pinging noise of a hpfp that's getting worn out. It comes much more apparent when the vehicle is tuned or SC'd

[d2a4]

I looked up the cost for a rebuild - $2k isn't a cheap fix.

$2K? Are you sure? Quick search yield ~$297 each

[DAYTA]

I was looking at the upgraded HPFPs on APR's website.

$297 isn't too expensive, figure $1k including labor to do the whole job?

[DAYTA]

So I drove up to the dealership today and test drove the RS4. Overall, the car was about what I expected - very used, but not in terrible condition. It handled well in the corners, though it felt a bit heavier than expected. I have to be honest...the midrange on my tuned A6 felt much more powerful. It wasn't until I got to about 5k RPMs that the RS4 felt quick, but I guess that's expected from a high-revving, small displacement V8.

A few notes:

1) The exterior looked pretty good for a 9 year old car with 121k miles. No major dings/dents, a few paint chips, scratches.

2) The interior was in OK shape for 121k miles (no tears in the seats), though there were a few things that the dealer acknowledged they would fix before selling the car:

- fix broken glovebox
- fix broken center armrest
- replace front upper control arms
- replace leaking cv boot
- trim behind driver seat was separated (they told me this is a common occurrence with the B6/B7 platform?)
- replace driver side valve cover

To that last point, I took the pic below of the engine and it looked a bit dirty. Should I be worried about the browalong the driver side IM?



3) They performed a BG cleaning instead of a walnut blast to clean up the carbon. Not sure if a thorough carbon clean is still needed?

4) Clutch felt a bit heavy, the assumption is that it is an aftermarket replacement. It definitely felt a bit grabby and harder to engage smoothly in S mode, but driving around in regular mode seemed OK.

5) Pads have 50%/70% life F/R. Rotors are in decent shape.

6) Tires have decent tread (Conti Contisport 5P).


They're selling it in the low $20s as well as giving me the best deal on my trade-in (since I bought the A6 from them originally) so essentially I'd have to put in another $5k to keep my monthly payments the same. Thoughts?

[particulardude]

OP, your questions sound very familiar - I've been on the hunt for awhile and just picked one up with low 90s on it. I'll have to post a full intro thread here when I have some time.

I had many of the same questions throughout my search. There are definitely some beat up ones out there. It sounds like the one you're considering is local to you. If you're ready to make a move on one I wouldn't limit yourself by location. Shipping is relatively reasonable or you could always make a road trip out of a pickup.

I opted for a full PPI including compression test. The one I picked up also had a folder of service records from the previous owners with details on recent carbon clean and other services.

Regardless of being nearly 10 years old and higher miles, there are examples out there that were taken care of - good luck in your search!


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[particulardude]

Also worth noting - some may not always make it on cars.com or autotrader and definitely not to the forum classifieds - check out a national Craigslist aggregator.


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