Oil Leak Issue (2)

[grain370]

What's up guys,

While I was installing new headlights on my car I decided to look to see if I could spot where the second oil leak was coming from since the bumper was already off. (First oil leak was fixed at year ago, at least I thought). I noticed that it was time to replace coil packs since there was a hole in one of the lines. The car is at 190,XXX and has been very good to me. No issues besides the first leak and that was 10k miles ago roughly. I took some pictures just to see if anyone could spot something I couldn't. I was thinking it was the gasket on the passenger side, which is the easier one to replace if I'm not mistaken. However, as you'll see in one picture that I have oil around the driver side front suspension. Not really sure how to go about diagnosing this issue. I knew I had an oil leak going on but the buildup is getting out of hand now as you can see. Carbon Cleaning has not been on the car btw. She is probably more than ready to get it done. Lol I've noticed it roughly around 187k by the idling.

Passenger side of engine:


Other pics of buildup:



Coil Pack with hole:

This is the picture I was referring to about the driver side oil...

[SinCityA6]

Common oil leaks for our cars is valve cover gaskets, timing chain covers, vacuum pump and oil filter housing. Timing chain covers and oil filter are at the rear of the motor so those are ruled out in your case.
Passenger side looks like it could be the vacuum pump cover leaking. I had the same issue a while back. As for the driver side, hard to say.
You could always clean everything off, then add dye to the oil and recheck in the future to pin point the issue.


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[grain370]

Common oil leaks for our cars is valve cover gaskets, timing chain covers, vacuum pump and oil filter housing. Timing chain covers and oil filter are at the rear of the motor so those are ruled out in your case.
Passenger side looks like it could be the vacuum pump cover leaking. I had the same issue a while back. As for the driver side, hard to say.
You could always clean everything off, then add dye to the oil and recheck in the future to pin point the issue.


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Hmm interesting. I'll definitely keep a closer eye on that driver side issue. A good cleaning would definitely aid to hopefully find the source.
Also, I failed to mention that when the car is warming up to op temps it smokes only from the front nothing from the rear, which leads me to believe that it is just the oil that has leaked that's just burning/smoking correct?

In regards to the vacuum pump, did you replace it or was it professionally done?

Thanks Sin

[SinCityA6]

Hmm interesting. I'll definitely keep a closer eye on that driver side issue. A good cleaning would definitely aid to hopefully find the source.
Also, I failed to mention that when the car is warming up to op temps it smokes only from the front nothing from the rear, which leads me to believe that it is just the oil that has leaked that's just burning/smoking correct?

In regards to the vacuum pump, did you replace it or was it professionally done?

Thanks Sin

You are correct. Oil leaking onto a hot service (exhaust manifold, etc.) will cause smoke. Smoke coming from an exhuast pipe indicates engine issues. In regards to the vacuum pump, the entire pump was replaced by Audi under my CPO warrnaty. I know that forum member @JPJ2007 just replaced the seal on his pump as it was leaking on him too.

[c@@kieMonsta]

Common oil leaks for our cars is valve cover gaskets, timing chain covers, vacuum pump and oil filter housing. Timing chain covers and oil filter are at the rear of the motor so those are ruled out in your case.
Passenger side looks like it could be the vacuum pump cover leaking. I had the same issue a while back. As for the driver side, hard to say.
You could always clean everything off, then add dye to the oil and recheck in the future to pin point the issue.


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FPNI

[SinCityA6]

FPNI

"FPNI" means what?

Disregard. Googled it

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[c@@kieMonsta]

"FPNI" means what?

Disregard. Googled it

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I was just about to.... Nice!! You can thank Arfcom for that one.

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[grain370]

[UPDATE]: Yes, I am reviving my old post. lol

I went to get a diagnostic done regarding the oil issue. It was just to messy underneath to determine where the oil was coming from. Turns out there are three oil leaks going on currently:
-Valve Cover Gasket $722
-Rear Upper Timing Cover Gasket $640
-Variable Valve Timing Solenoid Gasket $180

The listed prices are what my shop would charge for each individually. Do these look at all like realistic pricing, because last time I checked I thought the valve cover gasket was a relatively easy DIY? The other two I am not entirely sure as far as DIY goes? Should I just let the shop do their magic or try and tackle it myself?

[c@@kieMonsta]

The price for the valve cover gaskets is insane. Shouldn't be more than $300 imo.

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[S4NIK8]

All of those seem pretty high, I would check with another shop or consider diy for some of it depending on your time/abilities. The valve cover gasket and vvt solenoid are both very straight forward jobs.

[grain370]

The price for the valve cover gaskets is insane. Shouldn't be more than $300 imo.


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All of those seem pretty high, I would check with another shop or consider diy for some of it depending on your time/abilities. The valve cover gasket and vvt solenoid are both very straight forward jobs.

Glad I asked, because like I posted I thought the valve cover gasket was an easy job and definitely not worth $700+ . It would be my first time attempting these jobs, but majority of the people I have talked with said that they were not complicated jobs by any means.

[c@@kieMonsta]

Glad I asked, because like I posted I thought the valve cover gasket was an easy job and definitely not worth $700+ . It would be my first time attempting these jobs, but majority of the people I have talked with said that they were not complicated jobs by any means.

The VCG's are by the far the easiest to do. Even if you're a noob(like me!), you can bust them out in about 2 hours. The only thing to watch for the pesky clips on some of the wiring that you'll have to disconnect. Crap can break off very easily.

[grain370]

The VCG's are by the far the easiest to do. Even if you're a noob(like me!), you can bust them out in about 2 hours. The only thing to watch for the pesky clips on some of the wiring that you'll have to disconnect. Crap can break off very easily.

Haha great! Knowing my luck they will probably be more of a problem than necessary. Might as well try to do the Valve Cover my self since it is an easy one.
I have someone double checking those prices for me at a different shop back home.

[c@@kieMonsta]

Haha great! Knowing my luck they will probably be more of a problem than necessary. Might as well try to do the Valve Cover my self since it is an easy one.
I have someone double checking those prices for me at a different shop back home.

Also, I'd do the VVT solenoid gasket too. That one should take like 10 minutes lol. Now, the upper timing chain covers, those are a bit tricky. If you don't have patience, a steady hand, and the right tools, you can mess up pretty quick. If the shop is quoting you that price for BOTH of them, then that might not be such a bad deal.

[grain370]

Also, I'd do the VVT solenoid gasket too. That one should take like 10 minutes lol. Now, the upper timing chain covers, those are a bit tricky. If you don't have patience, a steady hand, and the right tools, you can mess up pretty quick. If the shop is quoting you that price for BOTH of them, then that might not be such a bad deal.

Yes, I'll add that to the list to do too. lol 10 minutes is perfect.

Patience and steady hands should not be an issue, but tools could be an issue since I am not at my actual house at this point in time. That one may be have to be done by the shop then.
In regards to the price being both, I cannot remember at the moment. I was probably too deep in shock from the prices I was quoted. lol

Also, I failed to mention those listed prices include taxes, labor, and parts, so that makes a big difference.

[c@@kieMonsta]

Also, I failed to mention those listed prices include taxes, labor, and parts, so that makes a big difference.

Not really. The only parts you need are the gaskets for the valve covers and they are $45 for a set; you need 2. For the timing chain covers, the gaskets aren't really gaskets. They get resealed with RTV. A tube of that stuff is like $10. I'd imagine the solenoid gasket is probably $10 too. So in reality, you are paying for labor and nothing more.

VCG's

Left
https://www.europaparts.com/valve-co...6e103483g.html

Right
https://www.europaparts.com/valve-co...6e103484g.html


Sealant for timing chain covers
https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-8218...rds=ultra+grey

and Solenoid gasket
http://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Inf...02-789-VAG.htm

All those add up to $55 before shipping. Your quote altogether for the shop is $1,542. So basically you're gonna be paying about $1500 for someone else to do it for you.

[grain370]

Not really. The only parts you need are the gaskets for the valve covers and they are $45 for a set; you need 2. For the timing chain covers, the gaskets aren't really gaskets. They get resealed with RTV. A tube of that stuff is like $10. I'd imagine the solenoid gasket is probably $10 too. So in reality, you are paying for labor and nothing more.



All those add up to $55 before shipping. Your quote altogether for the shop is $1,542. So basically you're gonna be paying about $1500 for someone else to do it for you.

Well thanks because you saved me time on searching for the parts lol
Yeah... not cool. haha
This actually has me wanting to call the shop to see how those prices actually came to be, usually their prices are pretty competitive to others.

[c@@kieMonsta]

Well thanks because you saved me time on searching for the parts lol
Yeah... not cool. haha
This actually has me wanting to call the shop to see how those prices actually came to be, usually their prices are pretty competitive to others.

I think it's the "german luxury car" tax that you're seeing. Many people say that maintaining a German luxury car will bankrupt you, and that's true... If you don't fix it yourself. Otherwise, it's about as expensive as any other car for most things.

[grain370]

I think it's the "german luxury car" tax that you're seeing. Many people say that maintaining a German luxury car will bankrupt you, and that's true... If you don't fix it yourself. Otherwise, it's about as expensive as any other car for most things.

haha that may be the case because in all 200k+ miles on that car I have not seen anything maintenance wise to really to write home about. I appreciate the advice man!

[se.farrell]

[UPDATE]: Yes, I am reviving my old post. lol

I went to get a diagnostic done regarding the oil issue. It was just to messy underneath to determine where the oil was coming from. Turns out there are three oil leaks going on currently:
-Valve Cover Gasket $722
-Rear Upper Timing Cover Gasket $640
-Variable Valve Timing Solenoid Gasket $180

The listed prices are what my shop would charge for each individually. Do these look at all like realistic pricing, because last time I checked I thought the valve cover gasket was a relatively easy DIY? The other two I am not entirely sure as far as DIY goes? Should I just let the shop do their magic or try and tackle it myself?

Others said those prices are outrageous, but not so much. I was quotes either $680 or $720 for the timing chain gasket.
@cookie - thanks for that info. I'm gunna search for a diy and to my timing chain gasket myself. You just saved me a boatload of cash.

[grain370]

Others said those prices are outrageous, but not so much. I was quotes either $680 or $720 for the timing chain gasket.
@cookie - thanks for that info. I'm gunna search for a diy and to my timing chain gasket myself. You just saved me a boatload of cash.

Well I got another quote done and this shop, which I have done business with before, said they could get it done possibly for around $900. However, I am liking the DIY route much better. lol

I see you have Adams Rotors waiting to be installed, I would love to hear how those are whenever you get them installed. I am leaning towards getting Zimmermann Rotors and Hawk HPS pads here in the next few coming weeks.

[SinCityA6]

I see you have Adams Rotors waiting to be installed, I would love to hear how those are whenever you get them installed. I am leaning towards getting Zimmermann Rotors and Hawk HPS pads here in the next few coming weeks.

I know that this request was not directed at me, but I can provide feedback an Adams Rotors....

I LOVE MINE!! I installed them several years ago along with Akebono Euro Ceramic pads and have had ZERO issues! The discs (and pads) hold up well, provide better braking feel and performer than OEM (IMHO), look fantastic (I have the slotted and dimpled Rotors) and leave ZERO dust on my wheels.

For a cleaner look, remove the dust shields (big plate looking pieces of metal) from the brakes.



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[grain370]

I know that this request was not directed at me, but I can provide feedback an Adams Rotors....

I LOVE MINE!! I installed them several years ago along with Akebono Euro Ceramic pads and have had ZERO issues! The discs (and pads) hold up well, provide better braking feel and performer than OEM (IMHO), look fantastic (I have the slotted and dimpled Rotors) and leave ZERO dust on my wheels.

For a cleaner look, remove the dust shields (big plate looking pieces of metal) from the brakes.



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It's fine! The more opinions the better.

So it seems like they are worth the extra money then? What was your reasoning for going with them? More looks or to try something other than OEM/similar quality rotors?

[Dutch_A6]

I've had Adams rotors for about 2 years, I'm on my second set. I love them, they look great and w/ either Akebono or Brembo ceramic pads they just bit and hold, no fade for regular street use. Plus they really aren't much more expensive than any other slotted or drilled rotors.

[grain370]

I've had Adams rotors for about 2 years, I'm on my second set. I love them, they look great and w/ either Akebono or Brembo ceramic pads they just bit and hold, no fade for regular street use. Plus they really aren't much more expensive than any other slotted or drilled rotors.

See I was under the impression that the Akebonos were great but didn't have initial bite like oem, but once warmed up they were better than oem.
Just nervous on getting slotted or drilled for reliability issues, but Adam's Rotors do look quite nice. lol

Pricing Adam's rotors now and it is very tempting to get the slotted rotors but as far as the grade of iron do you think the higher grade G4000 is actually worth purchasing or the standard G3000 is just fine?

$500 Slotted Adam's Rotors with black hub coating w/o pads
vs
About the same price for Zimmermann Rotors AND Hawk Pads

I believe there is a thread on here somewhere talking about Adam's Rotors. I'll look through that.

[bovi]

I had the same problem on my S6, problem is you will do the job mostly for nothing if you replace the gaskets only. It will still leak after. I,ve done it myself but afterwards seems like the problem with the V10 valve covers is that they bent with time. Means if you change the gasket, it will still leak on the sparkplug holes and in the middle when its hot. The price proposal of 600$ each is the cost of a brand new valve cover from germany (which i bought). You might also have the leak to the rear of the engine which require a removal of the entire engine. I've paid a friend to do it. It took 30 hours to replace all the covers, rear seal and timing seal.

The gasket option is useless. you can try it but 99% of the time, the covers are the problem, not the gaskets. You might also have oil in your sparkplug holes which can cause missfire.

[grain370]

I had the same problem on my S6, problem is you will do the job mostly for nothing if you replace the gaskets only. It will still leak after. I,ve done it myself but afterwards seems like the problem with the V10 valve covers is that they bent with time. Means if you change the gasket, it will still leak on the sparkplug holes and in the middle when its hot. The price proposal of 600$ each is the cost of a brand new valve cover from germany (which i bought). You might also have the leak to the rear of the engine which require a removal of the entire engine. I've paid a friend to do it. It took 30 hours to replace all the covers, rear seal and timing seal.

The gasket option is useless. you can try it but 99% of the time, the covers are the problem, not the gaskets. You might also have oil in your sparkplug holes which can cause missfire.

Wish you posted this sooner. lol
I got everything done through a different shop that has done some work for me in the past. I got those three, new filters, and spark plugs done for less than half of the initial quote from another shop.
The car still smokes, which i thought was left over oil that was getting burned off. However, if the bent cover issue is same with the 3.2, it may be something I will have to look into.

[c@@kieMonsta]

I had the same problem on my S6, problem is you will do the job mostly for nothing if you replace the gaskets only. It will still leak after. I,ve done it myself but afterwards seems like the problem with the V10 valve covers is that they bent with time. Means if you change the gasket, it will still leak on the sparkplug holes and in the middle when its hot. The price proposal of 600$ each is the cost of a brand new valve cover from germany (which i bought). You might also have the leak to the rear of the engine which require a removal of the entire engine. I've paid a friend to do it. It took 30 hours to replace all the covers, rear seal and timing seal.

The gasket option is useless. you can try it but 99% of the time, the covers are the problem, not the gaskets. You might also have oil in your sparkplug holes which can cause missfire.

Wrong. Maybe for the V10, but contrary to popular belief the 3.2 and 3.0 engines do not need to be removed to reseal the timing chain covers. Source: me, I've done it twice. Now, if you're referring to the main seal, ya total engine removal is required for that.

[S4NIK8]

The valve covers for the 3.0/3.2 are also significantly shorter than those found on the 5.2; I don't see them warping under the temps they see. Then again it is a problem with the air cooled 911 stuff with magnesium valve covers but those run much warmer.

[SinCityA6]

The valve covers for the 3.0/3.2 are also significantly shorter than those found on the 5.2; I don't see them warping under the temps they see. Then again it is a problem with the air cooled 911 stuff with magnesium valve covers but those run much warmer.

I can tell you from experience that the 3.0t valve covers do warp. They are made of plastic. I have had to have mine replaced due to reoccurring oil leaks.


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[S4NIK8]

I can tell you from experience that the 3.0t valve covers do warp. They are made of plastic. I have had to have mine replaced due to reoccurring oil leaks.


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Good to know! I've owned a pair of 5.2 S6's and hadn't seen that before but I'll be watching for it now

[tishi]

[UPDATE]: Yes, I am reviving my old post. lol

I went to get a diagnostic done regarding the oil issue. It was just to messy underneath to determine where the oil was coming from. Turns out there are three oil leaks going on currently:
-Valve Cover Gasket $722
-Rear Upper Timing Cover Gasket $640
-Variable Valve Timing Solenoid Gasket $180


The listed prices are what my shop would charge for each individually. Do these look at all like realistic pricing, because last time I checked I thought the valve cover gasket was a relatively easy DIY? The other two I am not entirely sure as far as DIY goes? Should I just let the shop do their magic or try and tackle it myself?

FYI:
i use USNEWS website for this kind of stuff.

https://cars.usnews.com/cars-trucks/...02130&x=22&y=9

you need to change zip code for 02130 to yours.

according to the USN:
Valve Cover Gasket Replacement (Both) for the 2006 Audi A6 Wagon near Jamaica Plain, MA (02130)

2011 Audi A6 Wagon Powered by Repairpal Free estimates for Audi A6 Wagon repairs.
Repair Cost Estimate:
Price Range: $399 - $518
Labor: $355 - $453
Parts: $44 - $65
Parts Needed: Valve Cover Gasket Set

-tishi

[grain370]

Common oil leaks for our cars is valve cover gaskets, timing chain covers, vacuum pump and oil filter housing. Timing chain covers and oil filter are at the rear of the motor so those are ruled out in your case.
Passenger side looks like it could be the vacuum pump cover leaking. I had the same issue a while back. As for the driver side, hard to say.
You could always clean everything off, then add dye to the oil and recheck in the future to pin point the issue.


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Reviving this thread once again lol

Well Sin,

Looks like the Vacuum Pump is next up on the list to do. lol

After those other gaskets were replaced and the engine bay was sprayed off, I noticed there was still oil coming from somewhere. I was looking at the pump and discovered there was some type of build up around it, go figure. I am assuming it is a seal that has gone bad, because as far as I am concerned the pump is not bad. However, the whole pump will be replaced regardless due to other members saying changing the seals typically does not fix the issue.

I hope this is the reason the car smokes from burning oil at red lights or when parked after driving, because it has gotten much worse after replacing those gaskets.

[SinCityA6]

Some have had success just replacing the gasket. But generally, the whole pump gets replaced.


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[DanHayworth]

Have had the same problem and is the valve gasket !


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[grain370]

Finally got around to changing out the vacuum pump over the weekend. It is safe to say at least one oil leak is fixed, however shortly after, I noticed that it was dripping oil on the ground like a leaking faucet on the driver side. I'll be taking it to the shop that "fixed" the previous leaks next week.






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[se.farrell]

For a cleaner look, remove the dust shields (big plate looking pieces of metal) from the brakes.

Sin, do you have a pic of your wheels/brakes w the dust shield removed? I just looked through your build thread and didn't see any...
Do you notice any difference noise/performance? Why'd you remove the shields, don't they offer protection?

I see you have Adams Rotors waiting to be installed, I would love to hear how those are whenever you get them installed. I am leaning towards getting Zimmermann Rotors and Hawk HPS pads here in the next few coming weeks.

Like Sin and many others, I really like my AR-Akebono combo. I would address the setup slightly differently. I feel that my OEM setup has more initial bite than the Akebono's. I would venture to say that the Akebono's require a little time/few stops to heat up in order to perform at 100%. I am not saying this is a downside, I believe this is due to the carbon composition (compared to OEM metallic).

All in all I LOVE BOTH. ZERO brake dust (and on the off chance there is you could quickly wipe down all wheels in >5 mins). I will say that the rotors are slightly louder than OEM. You still have to really be listening, w the windows down, music off and driving alongside a wall. But, I can hear an audible difference. I attribute this to it being my first time running drilled and slotted rotors.
Bottom Line, 10/10 would recommend.

[SinCityA6]

Sin, do you have a pic of your wheels/brakes w the dust shield removed? I just looked through your build thread and didn't see any...
Do you notice any difference noise/performance? Why'd you remove the shields, don't they offer protection?

Here you go....




The shield could provide a little protection from road debris, but I feel the cleaner look out weighs the small benefit.


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[ichi d]

Ok, so instead of starting a new thread i thought i post here since this is a oil leak thread. 09 222km(not miles) my car has been burning threw a lot of oil recently and i have changed the pcv which helped a little bit but did not fix the issue. Today i had the fuel filter replace and since i had the car up at my friends shop i took a look under the car and i noticed oil leaking from the back passenger side. i can not tell where its coming from as there is no room under the car to pin point the leak. Does anyone of an idea of where i should start to look around or things i may need to replace? i did change the vcg a few months ago and from the top of the engine bay there are no signs of leaks. Im also getting a big puff of black smoke from the exhaust when wot, im not sure if thats related or another problem. any help will be greatly appreciated. thanks

[95blkmax]

I assume from your response of 5-15-17 that the valve cover gaskets were replaced. The only other thing around the pass side rear that could leak oil is the pass side timing cover. That's also a common point of leak.

Go to the pass side valve cover, and peek at the rear of the cylinder head. There's sort of an access plate there to get to the timing chain tensioner of that side. This place is just siliconed and over time and miles it does start to leak. Easy fix, just access is a little tight but not imossible. If my big monkey hands can get in there, you can do it. Just be VERY CAREFUL to not drop any bolts. Not on the ground, but ESPECIALLY not into the opening during re-install. Drop something into the engine and you are in for a biiiig headache my friend