P0741 code, what to do here???

[Osmosis]

Hello everyone,

I have a 2000 A6 Quattro that has 149K miles on her. I purchased her with 119K miles and she has been an amazing car. When I first purchased her, I put an APR stage 1 ECU upgrade and brakes. It's my daily driver and I commute aprox 45 miles to work, mostly highway. I serviced my transmission 3 years ago when I purchased the car. I have always had a check engine light on because of my EGR's ..have never worked. No big deal. Anyway, last week I checked my codes just to be safe. I pulled an injector Bank 2 code and the dreaded P0741 code I think I had replaced the same injector bank when I first purchased the car a few years ago.

So, I have been searching my fingers off and reading everything about p0741 BS. I can notice no drivability issues other that the CEL light on my dash. The car has great power, but I rarely put my foot into it. I have read and found many people just ignore the CEL and live with the code. I have also read that it can lead to catastrophic transmission failure, which makes sense from everything I've read.

I'm not sure exactly how to trouble shoot this problem. At first, I thought about changing the trans fluid/filter and then cleaning &/or replacing the TCC solenoid as that could be a problem fix. In Torque Pro, I get the p0741 code that reads torque converter performance off/stuck TCC solenoid, I think? I'll confirm that tomorrow. I also read of others taking their car to do a transmission flush and fluid change @ a reputable shop which can resolve the problem. My fear is that the converter is on the outs and I'm not sure how long I should ignore it. I don't drive it hard for the most part & I do like the car a lot. That being said, I'm also considering purchasing a converter and pulling the transmission out, yet, I'm not finding much info on the boards on the process and I don't have a Bentley manual. I've pulled many transmissions before on my old hot rods, but never an Audi. I remember that there is some sort of process regarding the gear selector in the TPI AT transmission, ZF5hp19 transmission. I have found a few converters for the ZF5hp19 transmission on Amazon for 300ish and money is tight @ home these days so this looks like it will fit the bill including an upgraded seal, I"M assuming the upgraded seal that causes the p0741 problem? Amazon; TORCO ZF5HP19 Torque Converter under 300$

Tomorrow, when I drive home from work, I plan to get the car up to 65 on the freeway and watch the speedo and tach, then let off on the gas to watch my RPMS. I can't remember exactly how to watch for torque converter fluctuations this method...anyone remember how???

sorry to ramble, I'm just a bit out of my sorts trying to figure out how to trouble shoot this problem,

Thank you everyone

[spacecadet]

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index...5/P0741/001857

[mr_dave]

Lots of info on the rs6.com board: https://www.google.com/search?q=site%3Ars6.com+P0741

[Osmosis]

Thank you guys for the info!

My drive home today, I noticed that @ 65mph, I would let off the throttle at a cursing speed and my rpms dropped almost 500 rpms so the converter is not locking up :( I feared this would be the case. So, I could just ignore the problem like many do..but I really like this car! It's comfortable, fairly fast for what it is, 2.7t with an APR stage 1 chip flash...just a really clean car. I'm into it 4K and nothing more. I considered trying to trade it in, but really, for the cost of repairs, it's worth it to just fix and keep.

Now, I wondered if it might be a simple solenoid, I doubt it, but hoping for a simple fix. That being said I've been considering a few options;

1) change the fluid and filter and adding some Lucas transmission conditioner and HOPE for a no code P0741, but I really think that's just pissin in the wind and throwing my hard earned money away.
2) Find some online instructions for removal of the trans in my 2.7t, get a new converter and attack this job.

Thankfully, I do have a 2nd vehicle, Superduty Ford diesel truck, So I can put my Audi on jack stands in my garage and take my time with the project.

I've been on line non stop looking for some sort of directions to do this job and have yet to find anything but bit's and pieces. Can anyone here give me a hand in finding some good instructions for this job?

Thank you everyone!!!

[mr_dave]

If the converter isn't locking up and you keep driving it you'll wreck the trans. If you can pull the trans yourself you can get a reman TC for a few hundred or an upgraded one for ~$700-ish (maybe less for the 5hp19).

[Osmosis]

Mr Dave, thank you for your input. I kind of have realized that is where I need to go with my car :( Can you please help me find out if there is any particular specifications on removing my transmission. I remember reading a few years ago that there is a particular procedure on removing the transmission and disconnecting the gear selector in a very particular order for the TIP transmission ZF5hp19?? I plan on getting a stock converter with the upgraded seal and I also plan on doing the CV joints since they need replacing too.

Thank you!!!

[mr_dave]

I have some 5hp24 / v8 information, I'm assuming it's very similar if not the same for the 19. PM coming your way.

[Osmosis]

Mr. Dave,

Thank you so much for the information!!! Quick questions, will I need an engine support tool as shown in one of the diagrams? I think I read on a different forum that someone made one out of wood? I do see a part number, not sure if I can just rent it or support the engine from below with an additional floor jack?

Thank you again!

[Robsa6]

I'd pull the engine and transmission as one without a doubt. This is after doing it both ways. I had a lift, transmission screw jacks etc and would rather pull the engine and trans on the ground than pull the trans separate... I cant remember the gear lever sequence but sounds like mr dave shot you some info too. The converter will eat itself slowly leaving behind debris from the clutch inside for the lock up function and distribute them thru your transmission plugging fluid paths and clogging your filter so driving with the light on is a very bad idea. My other A6 had to have the converter replaced and after finishing it I was very happy and noticed a nice change in the behavior of the car. Concerning the EGT sensors.... Your at about 75% if you have EGT codes and the car is likely running rich to protect itself because it cant discern the actual temperature of the exhaust. What you've spent on fuel you could have changed the EGT's by now. Or custom tune it and get them coded out

[rollerton]

I know you've basically made up your mind..but.. I know of a few cars that have had the TC lockup fault for a long (LONG) time and have had zero consequences.
My old B5 S4 had it for nearly 4 years before I got it, drove absolutely perfect, I put 13k on it with the fault before replacing the TC.
Still going @ 200k miles. Upon removal the TC showed absolutely no signs of anything wrong, but I guess that's the nature of the seal failure.
I know of a couple cars that had no ill effects running with that fault for many 10's of thousands of miles and one particular A6 locally that has had the fault for over 100k miles..and pretty sure it's still going. The lady said she'd fix it if it broke, and it hasn't.
I understand the precaution, and I personally couldn't stand having it present on my S4 and did the same as you, but I bought a '517trans' high stall TC- but has anyone ever actually known of a trans failure that has been confirmed due to the TC lockup?

[Osmosis]

Thanks everyone for the replies!!!

I have been considering both removing the engine and also just waiting till spring to do this project. I would rather just get it done now rather than wait.

So, what would I have to do in order in removing the entire engine/transmission together? I know I would need to remove the nose of the car, radiator/transmission coolant lines. But then what? Wires and ECU connections, exhaust from where...the turbo's, engine mounts and trans mounts.

If anyone can point me to a DIY thread for this, that would be greatly appreciated :)

[Robsa6]

There are very good threads for DIY on the engine.
Rollerton: I've heard of cars lasting a long time with the code too. I'm thinking the cars with intermittent code would be the ones suffering from the transmission failures because of the converter trying to locl and not being able to hold enough pressure to keep the clutch inside from slipping and causing debris from circulating thru the transmission.

[S4man111]

That’s bullshit , I have a bmw that has had that code and converter not locking up and been driving it for over 3 years! It will be fine. What do u think they did in the 70s when most cars were non lock up

[rollerton]

It's become so much of a 'non problem' that you can send your TCU out now and have the TC lockup disabled and just go about your life. I'm not sure if it just turns off the nag light or actually stops the lockup from cycling, but either way it's not a problem I'd go out of my way to fix or worry about without way WORSE symptoms.

So, yeah- not as critical as some people have suggested.