Brake Job Price

[schuno]

My brakes started squealing a week or two ago, so I figure its time to get them replaced. I'm currently not able to complete the job myself, so I called a local family owned garage for an estimate and they told me it will be $350 for the front or $650 for the front and rear.

Does this estimate seem high? Would I be better off calling the local Midas? (I usually try to avoid the chains, but just moved to a new town so I don't have a go-to garage yet)

Also, I've read on here that there is a indicator light that should come on when brake pads are running low, but if that exists on my car (B8 A4) I'm not seeing it... thanks for any advice!

[rainydaze]

Did those quotes include any materials? Pads only? Pads and rotors?

Firestone quoted me $493 + tax to replace front pads and rotors when I got my lifetime alignment done (unsolicited quote); I have no idea what quality/brand rotors & pads were included, though.

[schuno]

Did those quotes include any materials? Pads only? Pads and rotors?

Firestone quoted me $493 + tax to replace front pads and rotors when I got my lifetime alignment done (unsolicited quote); I have no idea what quality/brand rotors & pads were included, though.

The quote included parts & labor (both pads and rotors), but I do not know the quality/brand either - I'll be sure to ask if they are OEM. Based on your quote from Firestone it seems like $350 isn't so bad...

[doughboy17]

Just my $.02 -- $650 sounds reasonable, but I would wait until the light comes on. I strongly advise against going to Midas. OEM equivalent pads and rotors, including CRC Disk Brake Quiet goop, (parts only) should run $400-$500. You may want to shop the labor around dependable independent Euro car mechanics -- maybe the family owned shop meet that criteria.

P.S. -- I have a box of pads, rotors, goop in my garage waiting for my light to come on. I'm around 4mm now.

[nycaudi]

My brakes started squealing a week or two ago, so I figure its time to get them replaced. I'm currently not able to complete the job myself, so I called a local family owned garage for an estimate and they told me it will be $350 for the front or $650 for the front and rear.

Does this estimate seem high? Would I be better off calling the local Midas? (I usually try to avoid the chains, but just moved to a new town so I don't have a go-to garage yet)

Also, I've read on here that there is a indicator light that should come on when brake pads are running low, but if that exists on my car (B8 A4) I'm not seeing it... thanks for any advice!

this can be done in your driveway. buy the parts and source the labor. you should not be paying extra for the labor to be done in a shop. while a lift is nice, the job can be done on jacks or ramps.

are you replacing just pads or rotors as well?


take a glance at these : https://www.amazon.com/R1-Concepts-C.../dp/B00J4PAMFU

then shop the labor which shouldnt be more than 150. if youre going to spend 6 then make sure they are better than oem

[rainydaze]

this can be done in your driveway. buy the parts and source the labor. you should not be paying extra for the labor to be done in a shop. while a lift is nice, the job can be done on jacks or ramps.

are you replacing just pads or rotors as well?


take a glance at these : https://www.amazon.com/R1-Concepts-C.../dp/B00J4PAMFU

then shop the labor which shouldnt be more than 150. if youre going to spend 6 then make sure they are better than oem

I'm pretty sure new carriers (and possibly calipers?) would be needed for the rears in that Amazon package.

[nycaudi]

I'm pretty sure new carriers (and possibly calipers?) would be needed for the rears in that Amazon package.

nope. these fit your stock hardware

if you need reassurance, contact r1concepts. Melvin helped me out last year, not sure if he's still part of R1

[schuno]

Thanks for all the feedback everyone, lots to consider here.

Just my $.02 -- $650 sounds reasonable, but I would wait until the light comes on. I strongly advise against going to Midas. OEM equivalent pads and rotors, including CRC Disk Brake Quiet goop, (parts only) should run $400-$500. You may want to shop the labor around dependable independent Euro car mechanics -- maybe the family owned shop meet that criteria.

P.S. -- I have a box of pads, rotors, goop in my garage waiting for my light to come on. I'm around 4mm now.

Does the indicator light only go on for the back brakes?

[fittan]

$350 seems fair to me. $650 is a bit high. There isn't much labor or parts price difference with front and rear to justify a $300 difference.

The only thing to add is that for rear brakes, the electro mechanical parking brake (EPB) must be "open" using the Vagcom tool. I typically change my own pad and rotors but had to let shop do rear because of this. So I suggest you ask shop "Do you know how to open the electro mechanical parking brake on Audi"? and "If so, what tools do you use". If they have no clue what you're asking, I would skip them.

[nycaudi]

all you need is the vagcom and a battery charger hooked up to the front bettery terminals.

turn ignition on
select controller 53
basic settings 7 to open
turn ignition off
change hardware
turn ignition on while battery charger is still connected
basic settings 6 to close
basic settings 10 to test
wait 30 sexonds once motors stop
exit vcds window by window, disconnect battery charger from front and youre done.

[PurdueB8A4]

I had a local who runs an Indy shop do mine (he has a vag com for rear brakes). Bought Akebono for fronts & rears ($110 + free shipping) and had them installed in an hour and 15 minutes for an additional $100 labor. Thought I got a pretty good deal-- looks to be a steal now.

Brakes function perfectly & I got rid of the horrid brake dust from the OEM pads. Win-win!

[cuda2000]

You can do the fronts yourself for $150. Watch this video for parts and instructions. I did my fronts at 35k miles. This weekend I will be doing the rears at 60k miles for the first time ever. You should not have to do the front and rear at same time, that would be strange. https://youtu.be/i00ZIJSOA8w

[integroid]

all you need is the vagcom and a battery charger hooked up to the front bettery terminals.

turn ignition on
select controller 53
basic settings 7 to open
turn ignition off
change hardware
turn ignition on while battery charger is still connected
basic settings 6 to close
basic settings 10 to test
wait 30 sexonds once motors stop
exit vcds window by window, disconnect battery charger from front and youre done.

You dont need a charger hooked up.
Also, if you have the version 16.8.0 or newer, the commands are completely different after you select controller 53 and basic settings. NYCAUDI, I am sure you remember how I know:)

OP - You can easily source Ceramic pads, Fluid, and rotors F&R for under $300. What seems to take the longest for me is getting the car jacked up and wheel off/on. Changing the pads on the rear is super simple once you have the electronic parking brake open. I would look at a VW/Audi indy shop to do the work.

[ccoaston]

my brakes started squealing a week or two ago, so i figure its time to get them replaced. I'm currently not able to complete the job myself, so i called a local family owned garage for an estimate and they told me it will be $350 for the front or $650 for the front and rear.

Does this estimate seem high? Would i be better off calling the local midas? (i usually try to avoid the chains, but just moved to a new town so i don't have a go-to garage yet)

also, i've read on here that there is a indicator light that should come on when brake pads are running low, but if that exists on my car (b8 a4) i'm not seeing it... Thanks for any advice!

do not call midas

[nycaudi]

You dont need a charger hooked up.
Also, if you have the version 16.8.0 or newer, the commands are completely different after you select controller 53 and basic settings. NYCAUDI, I am sure you remember how I know:)

OP - You can easily source Ceramic pads, Fluid, and rotors F&R for under $300. What seems to take the longest for me is getting the car jacked up and wheel off/on. Changing the pads on the rear is super simple once you have the electronic parking brake open. I would look at a VW/Audi indy shop to do the work.

You dont need a charger hooked up if you can seap out rear hardware before your battery reaches a certain threshold....now what that threshold is idk.i didnt care to find out either. Suppose for some strange reason a nut or rust prevents the rear hardware swap from being a breeze. You risk damage to the epb module (per rosstech site). Damage to that module, and you have to replace it at 450 a pop.

So yes it can be done without a battery, just as i can travel to and from work at about 120 mph the entire way....but is it safe?

Yeah im going to have to check that regarding the new layout, last i checked my version of vcds calls for the order instated. Perhaps i do require an update.....but i dont run beta versions of vcds and im on the wifi-hex module. Whats your setup?

[integroid]

You dont need a charger hooked up if you can seap out rear hardware before your battery reaches a certain threshold....now what that threshold is idk.i didnt care to find out either. Suppose for some strange reason a nut or rust prevents the rear hardware swap from being a breeze. You risk damage to the epb module (per rosstech site). Damage to that module, and you have to replace it at 450 a pop.

So yes it can be done without a battery, just as i can travel to and from work at about 120 mph the entire way....but is it safe?

Yeah im going to have to check that regarding the new layout, last i checked my version of vcds calls for the order instated. Perhaps i do require an update.....but i dont run beta versions of vcds and im on the wifi-hex module. Whats your setup?

Are you keeping your ignition on after you open the rear brake? I have always opened, then turn off ignition....change pads then turn on ignition and close.

I am not on a beta version. When I first opened VCDS it said there was an update and would I like to install. In the back of my head I thought maybe I should just wait until after the install but I didnt. I also do not run beta versions of VCDS.

I am running HEX-USB+CAN Interface with version 16.8.0