Do I Need New Lower Control Arms? (and other Suspension Questions)

[arjun90]

After all that bashing just to get that silly Pinch Bolt remnant, it appears as if I would need to replace the lower control arms now. What do you all think?

Here's a video---


Also, when re-installing the strut tower on the lower control arms, how do you about torquing the nut? Should I orientate the nut the other away around when reinstalling? I find it virtually impossible to torque the nut in the following pictures,





Thanks

[PaperToast]

what do you think?
if the bushings are blown . . .

[Audibot]

I usually hold the nut steady with a box wrench and use the torque wrench on the bolt itself. I set it a couple lb-ft higher just in case, but nothing extravagant.

[arjun90]

Darn I don't want to have to change the lower control arms, but does it seem I need to.

Can't I just change the bushings or just that one particular control arm?
I'm starting to think I should have gone with FCP Euro's full Control Arm Kit, rather than sticking to Meyle HD for the Upper Control Arms.

Also, if I choose to do the lower controls afterwards (i.e. in the coming months ahead), will I have to do an alignment again? That'd be two alignments in a row, trying to work the logistics / economics now...

what do you think?
if the bushings are blown . . .

[arjun90]

Thanks for the suggestion, will definitely go that route as far as that bolt goes. I also need to remember to load the suspension when torquing that bolt (by the way, its strange though as Bentley Publsher's Upper Control Arm Video doesn't instruct viewers to load the suspension before torquing, lol)

I usually hold the nut steady with a box wrench and use the torque wrench on the bolt itself. I set it a couple lb-ft higher just in case, but nothing extravagant.

[carmudgeon]

You shouldn't need to do an alignment unless you replace the tie rods. There's no camber or caster adjustment for the front.

[arjun90]

Thanks, I thought the upper control arms get a touch during an alignment process as well, since its relatively simple to adjust the orientation of the upper control arms, which leads me to ask, how do I "properly" adjust the upper control arms before torquing and reattaching to the spindle? From the axle nut to the fender liner, is approximately 15 inches for me. Should I jack up the suspension to that distance before attaching the control arms? Also, as far installing the new controls arms go, should I just replace control arms using the same orientation as the old ones?

I'm using that VAG Factsheet / documentation as far as torque settings go, using a 16" handle torque wrench, hopefully clearance is plenty

I think I'm making progress here. Now that the strut tower is removed, I have plenty of clearance to work with clamping down the boot on the inner tie rod (driver side) using the appropriate-sized ear clamp.

This car is a daily driver, but for the last couple of weeks, the weather has been so gruesome here, it had me delaying / prolonging a successful repair and in the meantime, I've learned to improvise by utilizing public transportation and walking the very same roads I drive this car on, haha. I still have the passenger side to go through.

Thanks again.

You shouldn't need to do an alignment unless you replace the tie rods. There's no camber or caster adjustment for the front.

[Audibot]

You shouldn't need to do an alignment unless you replace the tie rods. There's no camber or caster adjustment for the front.

My alignment is always AFU after I touch the upper control arms. Lowers, not so much.

Btw, OP, buy a cheap bottle jack from Harbor Freight and use that to load the suspension. I usually use the hub, if I can, or the lower straight control arm.

[arjun90]

Do you think I need to change the front lower rear control arm? Structurally, the control arm is sound, I should change the bushing. What are your thoughts? Will definitely change that part of the suspension after I'm done with the parts I'm dealing with now. Gotta' get this car back on the road pronto.

I have a smaller / compact hydraulic jack I'm currently using to hold the suspension up. I do see it occasionally comes in the way, might just pick up a cheap bottle jack as backup. Thanks

My alignment is always AFU after I touch the upper control arms. Lowers, not so much.

Btw, OP, buy a cheap bottle jack from Harbor Freight and use that to load the suspension. I usually use the hub, if I can, or the lower straight control arm.

[carmudgeon]

I can tell you from first hand experience, if that big bushing fails in the lower aft control arm, it will allow the tire to move enough to rub the fender and cause some odd wear on the tire. Best to replace it.

[a4kamila6]

Arjun I live in queens. I would recommend the 300 dollar FCP euro kit, lifetime warranty if they fail, no questions asked.

I was looking into 034 density line but havent heard or seen any evidence that they are legit better than FCP arms.

Then there is always OEM Febi/Lemforder/Meyle.

Normally when you pay twice the price for the same part, the quality is better.

[GroupBquattro]

[QUOTE=a4kamila6;11852431]Arjun I live in queens. I would recommend the 300 dollar FCP euro kit, lifetime warranty if they fail, no questions asked.

Really, lifetime, no questions asked ??? Awesome, because I rallycross my 2.7t and may have to change them more often than normal

[a4kamila6]

Yes sir lifetime warranty. The way it works is you order the same kit and once you send back your old suspension in the boxes they sent you, all they do is verify what you sent is their product and thats it. Doesnt matter why it failed or when.

Took them about 4 days to send me the money back to my credit card.

[Clockwerks]

I don't know if this helps or not but our local Firestone shop offers lifetime unlimited alignments for a one time charge of $169. Their single alignment is $69 so it pays for itself quickly.
After I put on my adjustable upper control arms they fixed me right up. I go in almost every time I hit a pothole (about monthly) and they don't bat an eye.