2.7t & 6mt Swap Build Thread

[brokenwrench]

I decided to start a new thread for my build project, now that I finally have a plan. This will be a 6mt swap & complete 2.7t transplant. Due to the extent of the work, I plan to get the "new" engine into the project vehicle and running before proceeding with any additional modifications. At some point, I plan on taking the busted up 2.7 sitting in my garage and building that up as a 3.0t project, but that may be its own thread if I ever get around to it. This project has taken a bit of a back seat to some other stuff going on, so updates may be a bit sparse.

Anyone who wants to see more of the background on this project, here's where it all started:
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...t=brokenwrench

But this is where I'll pick up with the story:

Donor vehicle - 2000 A6, 2.7t has no SAI and Bosch 5.3 TCM,
Project vehicle - 2001 A6 2.7t, has SAI & Bosch 5.7 TCM.

I will need to replace several wiring harnesses in the engine compartment, the reason for which is complicated and related to me hating myself. I've decided to completely strip the engine compartment on the project vehicle and then move parts over from the donor once I've removed them. This is mostly why the project has taken so long, I'd rather take my time removing wiring harnesses than attempt to recode the ECU.


Anyone know how to deal with this large tip wire harness? Do I cut it off, tuck it away, splice wires through the ECU compartment to the new ECU?


Complete 2.7+6mt and all related components removed from donor.



Donor vehicle, sans innards:


Welded tail pipe hanger on the project vehicle. Nothing an angle grinder can't handle, but still.....(@*&$*@#):


Tip brake pedal removed on project vehicle:

[xalents23]

You can just tuck the large tip wire harness and small connector away. Since you will not be using any of those connectors/wires for the tip to 6-speed swap.

[Jesse_Boyer]

Tip brake pedal removed on project vehicle:
http://i328.photobucket.com/albums/l...psi375a1na.jpg

That looks like a lot less work than removing the entire pedal assembly on both cars, but I couldn't figure out how I would run the hydraulics for the clutch with the master cylinder and brake booster installed. I removed the lot, cracking brake lines loose, creating the need to bleed it all later.

I'm curious if you get those lines routed without trouble/etc.

[brokenwrench]

That looks like a lot less work than removing the entire pedal assembly on both cars, but I couldn't figure out how I would run the hydraulics for the clutch with the master cylinder and brake booster installed. I removed the lot, cracking brake lines loose, creating the need to bleed it all later.

I'm curious if you get those lines routed without trouble/etc.

I haven't removed any of the pedals or clutch master cylinder from the donor yet, although I have the Bentley manual (thanks to the previous owner) which explains in detail how to do it. I did have to move the previous owner's amp wire to another hole in the firewall to clear up the path for the clutch master supply line, it's now above and to the left of the brake booster. I also had to remove the plug from the firewall for the clutch master pressure line.

[Groucho]

and I have some (hopefully) easy answered questions from those veterans of the swap. From your original swap question thread--Original Thread

Finally got the engine out. Haven't had time to remove the heads yet, but hopefully this week.

Since I'm still not completely settled on what I'll end up doing with this project, I did have another question for the community here.....if I end up swapping to the 01E trans and I replace the engine with one that came out of a manual vehicle (ECU included), will I have to reflash the manual ECU if it's going into a previously automatic vehicle (don't know why I would, but I'm not very familiar with this)? If I understand correctly I will have to reflash the gauge cluster, but anything else?

You just need to change the adaptation values in the cluster with VCDS, everything else will work fine.

To my questions--
I have a 2001 (10/00 Build date) AllRoad with a 2.7/TIP in it. I also have a 2001 (05/01 Build date) A6 with a 2.7/6MT I am doing the TIP-6MT swap. I have not made the decision which engine to use, haven't checked the engine codes yet.

I have searched AZ 6MT swap threads and read LOTS on the possibility of the ECU scenarios involved with my swap. I think I am more confused than ever. I have read here on AZ that the A6 ECU won't work as the ECU for the AR due to the air suspension stuff (which I want to keep for now), but everybody says if you have a 6MT ECU, use that instead of flashing the TIP cars ECU.

The ECU code from the AR TIP is 4Z7 907 551 K and the ECU code for the 6MT A6 is 4B0 907 551 AA. I do plan on doing at least Stage 1 tune on whichever ECU I use, but need to know which ECU I will have to use. Until I am ready to pull the TIP and reinstall the 6MT, I will still drive the TIP as long as I can. If I can use the A6 ECU, it will allow me to send out that ECU while still driving the AR. Plus, I suspect the A6 was (probably) modified. Is there a way to tell if it has had a tune already using VCDS? I am tune ignorant so far.

I am about to pull the entire drivetrain from the donor A6, and I want to know if I need anything (PIN/SKC) from the donor car before I make it so the VCDS won't be able to read anything. I don't have the VCDS set up to read the SKC using VAG K+CAN Commander software and the VCDS cable (Ross Tech HEX-CAN), so I can't pull it yet, but plan to set it up like this: Install Ross Tech VCP Drivers so I can do this: SKC Retrevial.

Lastly for now, what "soft coding" must I do to the AR before I pull it's 2.7 drivetrain so that when I put the new and improved 6MT drivetrain in I am ready to do final adjustments and get driving? Thanks!

[Kaane]

Physically there are only 2 types of ECU's ME7.1 and ME7.1.1 the 2001 has the 7.1 anything newer than 2003 is 7.1.1. You can flash any software on any of the ECU's, so it doesn't really matter which one you use. The 2000 ECU's had no immobilizer, 2001+ do. To check if the ecu had a tune you would need nefmoto and a cable, dump the rom and look if the boost values are different than stock.

[brokenwrench]

My goal for this weekend is to separate the 6mt from its engine so I can take it to the tranny shop for a rebuild. The complication here is I have the pair sitting on a skid, sitting on the subframe, and I don't have a hoist at the moment to lift them up and reach the bottom tranny bolts. I guess I better make sure to eat my Wheaties....

[Groucho]

brokenwrench--does your 6MT need the rebuild? or is it preventative?
I got my 6MT donor A6 as "needing a clutch" but was able to drive it sans clutch and everything felt fine. I'm debating doing a teardown to either update the 1-2 collar or verify it has been done, plus look at the synchros.
Wheaties is right.

[brokenwrench]

It needs a rebuild. It won't go into 1st or 2nd. I had to drive it onto the trailer and into my garage in 3rd. Probably the only reason I was able to get the car at all. All functional 01E's in this area are snatched up pretty quick.

[Groucho]

Yeah, the guy I bought mine from was skeptical that I could drive it. It's funny, when I went to look at it the car was able to start in gear, but wouldn't shift using the clutch. I started it in 1st, got it going and it shifted right into 2nd at the right speed/rpm combo. Got enough seat time on the back road to get it into 4th, as well as downshifting back to first. After I got it towed home, I took it for a test drive and was able to hit all gears (can I say I love the 6MT already?). Then it seemed as if the clutch was working just enough I tried reverse, and it went right in. backed it up the driveway into the garage. The rest of the A6 is kind of POS, so I may just keep the second motor and part out what might be needed for a while then get rid of it.

[brokenwrench]

Managed to get the 6mt separated from its engine, but I can't completely separate the pair since the engine doesn't balance very well on the skid without it.

Here's the last part I need to remove from the project engine compartment before I can start moving parts over......a big fat wiring harness


And a comparison of the Bosch 5.3 (left) & 5.7 (right) TCM's, for reference.

[Groucho]

Just out of curiosity, why are you (re)moving (or swapping) the ABS unit? I don't plan on switching anything brake-wise between the donor car and my car, but I have learned that I don't know a lot when it comes to all that swaps can be. Maybe one of those ABS units is better than the other? Is the 5.3 less problematic? Do you have known ABS issues with the VCDS stuff? Like I said, I'm learning, so I am throwing out my ideas of why somebody would switch that module out.

[brokenwrench]

Because the 5.7 requires like 2 or 3 more sensors/connectors which aren't on the 6mt ECU wiring harness. I have to change out wiring harnesses either way, this way makes it so I don't have to reflash the ECU or splice wires (I hope). Also, the 5.7 has its own vacuum pump, where the 6mt has the vacuum coming from the intake manifold. To keep the 5.7 would just be way too complicated right now.

[brokenwrench]

On another note, I stopped by Apikol in Boulder on my lunch break yesterday, talked to one of they guys there for a bit. Apparently he's working on a C5 RS6 build with straight-cut 1st & 2nd gears in his 01E (don't know how he plans to handle all the whine form those gears though). Sounds like he's planning on sending a LOT of power through his 6mt, would be a fun project to follow.

[Groucho]

Because the 5.7 requires like 2 or 3 more sensors/connectors which aren't on the 6mt ECU wiring harness.

Both my allroad and my donor car (2001 A6 2.7T 6MT 01E) have what appears to be 5.7 Bosch motronics ABS modules like the one on the right of your picture. My assumption is that the ABS module will not be an issue for me. Your post above says the 6MT doesn't have the connectors on the wiring harness--Is that just the donor car is a MY-2000 vs 2001? I hopefully will have some time tonight to keep moving on the dismantling of the donor. It's sat like this for almost a week.

[IMG][/IMG]

[brokenwrench]

The tip has 2 connectors which the 01E doesn't have, that's why I was asking what to do with that cable.

[Groucho]

Gotcha.

I did make some progress last night on my end. Was able to acquire the SKC for my '01 allroad last night. Woo-hoo!

Anybody want to chime in on if I need anything code-wise from the 6MT ECU before I make it inaccessible to my Ross-Tech VAG com? Also, I've heard of a couple recommendations for tuning ECUs, just not sure everybody's go-to who can also flash a euro 6MT file to a TIP ECU.
Do I need to recode the AR before I pull out the drivetrain and ECU?

[brokenwrench]

After chasing the wiring for the Bosch 5.3 & 5.7 TCM's, I don't think I'll be swapping that out. Turns out the 5.7 wiring harness is integrated throughout the vehicle, requiring at a minimum pulling the dash but possibly removing the entire interior. The 5.3 wiring harness terminates almost immediately at the junction box in the driver's side kick panel, but also turns out it requires a special VAG tool in order to bleed.....

So long story short, I'll be keeping the 5.7 TCM, maybe even swap intake manifolds to the later style. Maybe someone can answer whether or not the stability system is contained in the ECU or the TCU? Are they two separate systems, or do they have to talk to each other?

[Groucho]

Brokenwrench--First off, let me know if you'd rather me start my own thread. I was thinking about it today, since I do not have an answer to your ECU/TCU question and wanted to ask. I originally thought it would be ok to keep my swap intertwined with yours, but I understand if you'd rather me break off and start my own. Just let me know.

I got a little more removed from the donor A6 yesterday. Removed the exhaust from the midpipe, heatshields, the propeller shaft, and the rear diff. Beat one of the rear axle points a little too hard, popped the end apart and could see the internals of the inner part of the axle (balls and grease). Lesson learned.

[brokenwrench]

No worries, mate. Go ahead and keep posting here. Our projects look more or less the same at this point, may as well help fill in the pieces I didn't discuss when I tore mine down.

When I was pulling the rear diff I started a couple of the screws back in the drive flanges and pounded on the heads a little bit to free the axles. Even though the diff was still mounted, there was enough movement to pop 'em loose that way.

My goal for the long weekend is to re-install the 5.7 TCM and pull/install the 6mt brake and clutch pedals.

[Groucho]

Yeah, in retrospect I think I would have done the suggestion you made, but since it was the last part of the stuff I was doing before grabbing a cold beer and quitting for the night, I wasn't in the mood to use rational thought. Brute force and ignorance was the mode of the second rear axle. Thanks for being ok with me posting here.

Was going to try tomorrow and get the donor 2.7T ready to pull. I also am itching to start pulling out the pedal asemblies. I may trying to swap the 6MT stuff over to the TIP pedal bracket--I read in blackmage's thread that 20/20 vision he should of done that because of the subtle differences in the bracket holes? May take a look at doing it.

[Jesse_Boyer]

Yeah, in retrospect I think I would have done the suggestion you made, but since it was the last part of the stuff I was doing before grabbing a cold beer and quitting for the night, I wasn't in the mood to use rational thought. Brute force and ignorance was the mode of the second rear axle. Thanks for being ok with me posting here.

Was going to try tomorrow and get the donor 2.7T ready to pull. I also am itching to start pulling out the pedal asemblies. I may trying to swap the 6MT stuff over to the TIP pedal bracket--I read in blackmage's thread that 20/20 vision he should of done that because of the subtle differences in the bracket holes? May take a look at doing it.

I'm in the middle of an S6 manual conversion and I chose to swap the entire pedal assembly. I didn't notice any differences in the assemblies, but I didn't pull the brake/clutch switches from the brackets either. Is that where I would have seen some differences in the assemblies?

[Groucho]

Jesse--
Yeah, that is where it appears it will be different. Here is the photo posted by blackmage in this thread. It is on page 2, about 1/3 the way down. He references it once more before he finishes the swap, saying while the two pedal clusters were out and together, he shoulda just swapped the parts from the A6 pedal cluster to the allroad pedal cluster due to the differences in the bracket casting for the switches. I haven't pulled out my A6 pedal cluster yet.





I got a lot of work done yesterday with a little help from a fellow allroad owner. Pulled the drivetrain, removed downpipes, and are almost ready to separate the transmission from the engine. 3/4 of the O2 sensors came off easily. The last one, passengers side rear, is being very stubborn. I may just cut the wire since I plan to code it out anyway.

[brokenwrench]

I managed to pull out the 6mt pedals and install them into the project car. It only took a couple hours, longest part was when I forgot to loosen the set screw on the main pin. I also re-installed the Bosch 5.7 TCM and separated the 01E from its engine.

Because I'm lazy, I'm going to make my own acronyms for this post:

BMC=brake master cylinder
CMC=clutch master cylinder



How I reached the lower torx screw on the brake booster, T45 (I think) and 1/4" box wrench. I went ahead and separated the BMC from the booster, so that I could push the booster out further when I was loosening the nut on the back of the brake pedal.






Donor vehicle sans pedals.



And a closer look at the CMC, still inside the car. The hose coming off the top has a fitting which passes through the firewall. The fitting just rests in a u-shaped notch on the pedal bracket, make sure to remove the supply hose on the outside. 2 screws and the CMC is loose.


And all the parts which end up being re-installed.



The notch in the back of the clutch pedal is where the spring rests.


Closer look at the clutch pedal spring. The green plastic pieces have an orientation to them, make sure you put them back in the same way or the spring may not drop/return the clutch pedal correctly.


Closeup of the CMC pressure line clip. This clip will need to be completely removed in order to let the CMC pass through the firewall.


And the clutch pressure line:


The brake reservoir has 2 lines coming off of it, one will be pinched off at the factory, cut it EXACTLY where shown (use your other nipple for reference). Too much/little left on the end of the nipple and the hose may not seal correctly.




ALL the pedals back where they belong:


Underside of the pedal cluster. I haven't moved the 6mt clutch switches, don't know if I want that aggravation or just trust that I'll always remember to push the clutch before starting.


Starting to look like a car again.


And the brake reservoir back where it belongs. The switch on the main vacuum line doesn't exist on the 2000 donor vehicle (difference b/w 5.3 & 5.7 TCM's). I haven't removed the cable for this switch from the tip ECU harness yet, not terribly excited about that to be honest.


Hi-ho hi-ho it's off to the shop the 01E goes.... I found out the 2.7 will rest balanced on the oil pan and the sub-frame. I partially re-installed the motor mounts to keep the sub-frame sort of aligned.




**reinstall order:
1. Install CMC onto firewall (make sure to remember the rubber grommet and metal washer behind it). Install supply line in bracket notch, install grommet from outside.
2. Use main pin to align brake pedal correctly, but don't start the booster nut on the back until after the clutch pedal is installed.
3. Remove main pin again, place the green clutch spring pivots in their correct location, remember the loop in the spring passes OVER the CMC.
4. Route clutch pedal behind steering shaft. Place the clutch spring in the notch on the back, keeping the green pieces where they belong (I had to start over a few times).
5. Start main pin through clutch pedal, trying not to knock off the white plastic bushings (there should be 2 of them, both of mine were cracked).
6. Keeping the clutch spring in the notch and using many many swear words, while standing on your head and chanting the magic phrase, press the main pin into the bracket, and through the brake pedal.
7. Assuming you haven't passed out yet from lying upside down so long, re-install both outer clips on the main pin, set the retaining screw, and re-install the CMC pin.
8. Start the brake booster nut on the back and then get out and tighten all the bolts for the brake booster and BMC.
9. Get back under the dash, adjust the brake pedal nut until the pedal is the same level/height as the clutch pedal. Tighten the jam nut when you're satisfied.
10. Use more swear words when you notice you left greasy footprints on your good headliner.....
11. Sit in the driver's seat for a few minutes while the blood flows out of your head and admire you're install while you're pretending to drive it....

[brokenwrench]

I was chasing the wiring for a couple connectors, next thing you know......



Hey Groucho, don't suppose you could do me a favor and let me know where the connector goes for this? It's the vacuum pump on the TCM, you might be about in a position to find this, don't stress too much if you can't though. I seem to have misplaced this cable.....

[Groucho]

On my allroad (the donor A6 6MT didn't have it, apparently for obvious reasons), that connector goes into the loom with the connector that goes to the bottom of the coolant reservoir. The coolant connector comes out, and this one comes out a little bit further to the vacuum pump canister shown in your picture.

The pictures show it so-so.

The image similar to what you showed--



The point at which the coolant connector intersects with the connector you are asking about for the vacuum pump. The accordian looking thing in the picture is around the collant connector (it's torn right where it turns upward) and the wire set from the vacuum pump is in the middle of the picture. Without removing the coolant pump, I had a hard time getting a really great picture of the actual junction to the loom, but let me know if you need more.

[brokenwrench]

That helps much, many thanks. I found like 4 or 5 2-pin connectors on the wiring harness, all look like they could go there.

[brokenwrench]

Problem solved, I just took out the vacuum pump (insert emoji of guy pitching part over his shoulder here). Still comparing the two wiring harnesses, making sure it'll work to swap those out......

And I was just reading back through some earlier posts, can't really answer all your ECU programming questions, but I did read somewhere it's possible to bench flash these. Don't know who can do it or what is required, sorry.

[Groucho]

Brokenwrench, Based on looking at your picture I think the area where the connector is located is on the bottom right hand side of your photo. It looks like the two connectors branching out down there would be the vacuum pump and the coolant tank.

EDIT--I just saw you posted an hour before me and couldn't really answer the ECU stuff. I will leave it in in case someone can. Glad we can just toss part over the shoulder!

On another note, and I feel I may be making a bigger thing about it than it is, but do you know what we will have to do to the ECU so that the car functions after the swap? I've been trying to search on this, and seem to be coming up empty. I can't figure out if I should do one of two things--
One, send my current allroad ECU from the (originally) TIP car to someone and have them flash it with what I think is a Euro 6MT file
-or-
Two, Is there a way to use the ECU that came from the donor 6MT A6 and have it be compatible with my allroad electronically.

(I guess I may feel there is a third option, which is pulling the necessary file off of the donor ECU and loading it to the allroad ECU, but I may not be at a comfort level of doing that yet. )

All the mechanical stuff is moving ahead with minimal difficulty. This ECU thing just has me stumped on what my options really are.

[brokenwrench]

When I compare the two wiring harnesses I see several differences between them. For instance, one pin going into the firewall header on the tip vehicle has a red/yellow wire for the SAI pump - the 6mt doesn't have SAI, but that same pin has a blue/red wire (have yet to find which connector it goes to). I hate to even consider the possibility of keeping the tip ECU/gauge cluster and recoding those to be 6mt compatible, but that's where I think this may have to go. In my case, I think the differences in wiring harnesses is due to the 2000/2001 m.y. split and if that's the case I don't think the 2000 harness will work. As a result, I've started going back through the tip wiring harness and labeling all the connectors I can identify. Ugh, this is exactly what I was hoping I could have avoided.

Maybe if someone reading this has knowledge of a reliable source of a 2001 A6 Quattro, 6mt, non-SAI ECU stock flash, I would be very interested in talking to that person.

[Groucho]

I've been re-reading the DIY thread for the 6MT swap, and right now I am waiting for a login for Nefmoto so I can search for the 559E file that I would need to flash the TIP ECU with to allow it to work with the 6MT. This post to the DIY thread explains what I think is my answer to the flash file n stuff, but until I get my registration to Nefmoto I cannot be sure. Audizine 01E Swap parts DIY Thread post #21


I'm with you, the wiring/cluster/ECU stuff seems to be a mass of mental block for me. I know I will be able to figure it out, it just may beat me up until I do.

[rollerton]

I've been re-reading the DIY thread for the 6MT swap, and right now I am waiting for a login for Nefmoto so I can search for the 559E file that I would need to flash the TIP ECU with to allow it to work with the 6MT. This post to the DIY thread explains what I think is my answer to the flash file n stuff, but until I get my registration to Nefmoto I cannot be sure. Audizine 01E Swap parts DIY Thread post #21


I'm with you, the wiring/cluster/ECU stuff seems to be a mass of mental block for me. I know I will be able to figure it out, it just may beat me up until I do.

Hang on a sec. Hold yer horses.
Are you swapping an A6 or an S6 (V8..) ?

You ONLY need to flash the ECU if you're swapping a 4.2L since the US model ECU did not contain the programming for a manual trans. All the V6 cars (as far as I know) just need to have the coding changed.
The 559E Euro Manual file is specific to the BBD engine in the S6....so...that ain't gonna help anyone with a V6 car.

[brokenwrench]

Rollerton, hope you don't mind, but I'm going to copy your quote from another thread in here for my reference later. Although I assume at least some of this info is specific for the 4.2, still relevant maybe.

You mean the 01E conversion wiring..? Dude...it's so simple. One wire from ECU pin 39 to the clutch position switch. And other pin on that switch goes to brake light signal.
THAT is basically it.
You can 'jump' / disable the clutch safety switch, or simply run ground through the clutch interlock switch to the interlock relay (it normally comes from shifter mechanism park/ neutral to allow ignition).
Last is reverse lights. You have two connections on the trans-switch. One should be keyed 12V (from any source you want really, but that can be found in the HUGE auto trans plug). The other is the wire that goes back to the reverse lights. That wire is also in the huge trans plug you will tape off and tie way up out of the way.

That's it..and I haven't done a swap in 3 years..

But you did give me a good point to think about. I might have to use the tip engine/ECU wiring harness on my 2000 6mt engine, but I should still be able to use the 2000 6mt ECU, right? My brain hurts trying to sort all this out.....to quote many others "I hate wiring".....

[Groucho]

Rollerton, if you could clear this up, you'll be my hero of the day and I can stop waking up at 4am thinking about how I am going to flash the 559E file to my ECU, and which ECU to use...I have a feeling I am over-thinking and confused between engine platform info.

In post #5 of this thread I thought I was being pretty complete in the info about what I was trying to do so I could get help with the questions I was asking. The vehicle I want to put a 01E into is my 2001(Technically 10/00 build date on the door sticker) Allroad 2.7T which currently has a TIP trans. The donor car I have is a 2001 (05/01 build date) A6 2.7T with the 6MT. I just wanted to clarify if I needed to just do soft coding to the AR ECU (which I believe has to be done BEFORE I pull the drivetrain from the allroad I am swapping into) or if I have to have some sort of file for the ECU for the new setup to work well in the allroad once swapped over.

I tried to follow the sticky 01E swap parts thread DIY before asking questions, but got confused trying to glean as much info from other swap threads saying all I needed to do was soft coding (I have a Ross-Tech Hex CAN) which I am familiar with, and then it wasn't really clear what info was directed towards the 4.2L V8 vs what was 2.7T V6 info. Information overload for sure.

Thank you sooo much either way!

[aysix]

Rollerton, hope you don't mind, but I'm going to copy your quote from another thread in here for my reference later. Although I assume at least some of this info is specific for the 4.2, still relevant maybe.




But you did give me a good point to think about. I might have to use the tip engine/ECU wiring harness on my 2000 6mt engine, but I should still be able to use the 2000 6mt ECU, right? My brain hurts trying to sort all this out.....to quote many others "I hate wiring".....

Yes

[rollerton]

In my opinion changing any part of the harness for a different one is more work than simply adding a couple wires to the harness you have, regardless of which car it is. As far as I know every Audi the 2.7 came in, in the US, was available with manual trans so there's no reason to worry about engine harness's or anything. You just need the wire so the ECU can see the clutch position. Then change the coding on the ECU so it is actually LOOKING for that signal. The only difference I know of that anyone would notice is the presence of the SAIP on the Auto, but the earlier car with a manual trans didn't have SAIP?- but has nothing to do with the swap..so shouldn't matter?

So; On the 2.7 the ECU should already have the manual trans programming, you just have to change the 'Soft Coding' to match manual trans. No file 'flashing'.
Clear all errors you can, unplug, ditch the TCU, login and recode the ABS module, do the steering angle adaptation.
Pretty sure you still need to add the one wire from the ECU to the clutch position switch, and a wire from clutch position switch to brake light switch.
Technically you don't have to do any of this to finish the swap and drive the car- but the ECU to clutch switch wire helps ALOT.
The other stuff is just the clutch safety switch and backup lights and has no effect on driving the car, but I'd consider it part of the swap.

[brokenwrench]

I found a total of 5 wires which are different between the 2000 & 2001 ECU wiring harnesses (actually not the ECU connectors themselves, just the 4 other multi-pin connectors which go to the firewall junction box). 4 of those are "extra" on the 2000, meaning not present/populated locations on the 2001, and 1 wire is actually different. The top-left pin on the 2001 red/orange connector is red/yellow and goes to the SAI pump, it's blue/red on the 2000 and goes to the reverse switch. The other 4 wires all go to the ECU, best I can tell, so I'm going to leave them alone and assume I can code out whatever function they originally provided, or in any case figure it out later.

Anyone know off-hand the best way to remove the pins in these wiring connectors? I was able to remove one on the 2001 harness as practice, but I'm having a tough time getting that single, all-important, wire out. I tried using a paper clip and various other narrow pieces of hard metal already, no luck.

[rollerton]

I guess I don't fully understand what the need for swapping the harness is? You're not adding any complexity or any sensors to the car, you're actually removing quite a bit, and the wires that used to go to those parts..will simply be dead.
Wires for the back up light come out of the large F21 connector that used to plug into the trans.
Beyond that you add a wire from ECu to clutch and a couple at the pedals.

Why swap harness's ..? Other than the S6 I did the swap on a B5 S4 and removed SAI and a couple other things (manual S4 didn't have it), but at no time did I think I needed to modify or change the cars harness for any reason.

I must be missing something?


Oh. Edit! I went back to your original post again...yeah. Different ECU-- I thought this was swap that started as 2.7 auto then ended up -->2.7 + manual trans. But you're going to a later ECU generation.. I don't have that into stuck in my brain anymore If I ever did..hmm..
but if you have to mess with the harness in any way, you might consider this set:
Picked it up a few years ago and it is VERY handy when you need it..
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben...ieces/ce-70-2/

Don't let the wiring scare you though or any of the programming/ coding process. It really is pretty easy..like so easy that when you do it and it works you STILL think you screwed it up because it was so easy.

[brokenwrench]

I'm not swapping out the complete harness, I just need to pull out a single wire.

[Groucho]

OK. This thread has gotten buried waiting for brokenwrench and I to get our transmissions rebuilt.

I had bad news delivered to me yesterday. My transmission shop have had my 01E for a little over two weeks. I purchased the JHM full rebuild kit and was going to have my shop tear it apart and get me a decent fresh start with it. Well, they finally got their builder to tear it apart. According to their builder, (One of) The previous owner(s) beat the heck out of the thing. The splines are noticeably worn on all shafts, and the only gear that was worth anything was 6th.

I have never torn apart a transmission, so I am trusting that they know what they are talking about. They're neighbors of ours at work, so I worked a trade deal to have them rebuild the transmission. I honestly thought they were playing a practical joke on me, like they got a junker shell out of their pile and threw some gears into a box. However, my fortune of being the butt of their joke was not to prove true.

I have contacted Scott at Advanced Automotion about possibly buying one of his transmissions. He has helped direct me to the transmission I should opt for, but I haven't sent him pictures to determine if the shop is giving it to me straight or maybe their builder just doesn't like Audi.

I figured while I wait to really figure out the best course of action, I would post up to see if anyone else has some insight--maybe a couple of you have done the JHM rebuild and remember what they experienced and can comment on the condition of my transmission parts here. FWIW, when i place parts on splined shafts, I get a very little amount of slop. I would have guessed that the splined pieces would be so precise that I shouldn't be able to detect any slop at all, but again, I haven't ever played with tearing transmissions apart.