Suction jet pump brands

[relative4]

I just replaced the suction jet pump in my '02 1.8T with the cheapest one on ECS, the MTC for $10. That was a bust, arrived with a leak. Trying to figure out whether to spend the $47 for the OEM or pick one of the in-between ones. Brief googling indicates URO is the OEM supplier for this part, but that seems unlikely given the $11 price tag. Anyone had experience choosing the cheapest SJP that will last a while? Thanks!

[Furly]

Delete that beeyatch all together. Its worthless.

[B5nDisciple]

Delete that beeyatch all together. Its worthless.

Not sure if it's worthless. Metalman (has a B5 and a B6 1.8T) found out that If you have to brake hard after immediately coming off WOT, vacuum doesn't build fast enough without the SJP for the brakes to work properly. It takes a bit (a second or two if I remember correctly) for the vacuum to build without it. Metalman and others have switched back to using it because of that issue. When it comes to braking I'm not willing to give up any time at all, which is why I am still running it.

But for the OP's question I would definitely go with OEM for a part that helps provide safety with regard to braking.

Sent from my VS990 using Tapatalk

[relative4]

If you have to brake hard after immediately coming off WOT, vacuum doesn't build fast enough without the SJP for the brakes to work properly. It takes a bit (a second or two of I remember correctly) for the vacuum to build without it. Metalman and others have switched back to using it because of that issue. When it comes to braking I'm not willing to give up any time at all, which is why I am still running it.

And that explains why I was throwing brake booster codes prior to replacing the SJP.

I would definitely go with OEM for a part that helps provide safety with regard to braking.

This is my wife's commuter car, and my 3 kids sit in the back. Your advice is valuable, appreciated, and... followed.

[KHARDa4]

Not sure if it's worthless. Metalman (has a B5 and a B6 1.8T) found out that If you have to brake hard after immediately coming off WOT, vacuum doesn't build fast enough without the SJP for the brakes to work properly. It takes a bit (a second or two of I remember correctly) for the vacuum to build without it. Metalman and others have switched back to using it because of that issue. When it comes to braking I'm not willing to give up any time at all, which is why I am still running it.

But for the OP's question I would definitely go with OEM for a part that helps provide safety with regard to braking.

Sent from my VS990 using Tapatalk

I deleted mine for I had no choice when going big turbo. My booster runs ton manifold vacuum with a check valve, works flawlessly and no change to braking under any conditions.

[Luxus Panzer]

this ??

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...4#post11578804

[PreciseD]

I deleted mine for I had no choice when going big turbo. My booster runs ton manifold vacuum with a check valve, works flawlessly and no change to braking under any conditions.

What check valve did you use? The one in the B5 line?

[5ktq]

I don't think URO is the OEM supplier for anything. Seems to be chinese parts distributor house AFAICT.

[BARRY]

SJP is actually a very well designed feature. simple in functionality, but very well thought out. i honestly commend VAG for designing it. as much as it adds quite a bit of hosing work, i'd vote to keep it unless you plan to install a standalone vacuum booster canister/pump. turbo cars on boost normally will not be able to supply vacuum to the brake booster for normal operation.

[B5nDisciple]

SJP is actually a very well designed feature. simple in functionality, but very well thought out. i honestly commend VAG for designing it. as much as it adds quite a bit of hosing work, i'd vote to keep it unless you plan to install a standalone vacuum booster canister/pump. turbo cars on boost normally will not be able to supply vacuum to the brake booster for normal operation.

I concur. Thanks for elaborating.

And that explains why I was throwing brake booster codes prior to replacing the SJP.

Oh definitely.

This is my wife's commuter car, and my 3 kids sit in the back. Your advice is valuable, appreciated, and... followed.

You're very welcome, my pleasure. When it comes to something regarding safety I find it impossible not to chime in. I have three little wee ones so I know your persoective. Glad I could help. :)

Sent from my VS990 using Tapatalk

[relative4]

Note that this car already has a vacuum pump for the brake booster. And in certain conditions it doesn't kick on soon enough to meet immediate needs. The SJP fills that gap.

[old guy]

Normally for a part like this I would go with OEM. Unfortunately I have blown up two OEM SJP’s. So the last time I replaced it I went with this one that has a screwed on cap rather than a glued on cap. That was about four years ago and still working fine.

Clicky click®

[B5nDisciple]

Normally for a part like this I would go with OEM. Unfortunately I have blown up two OEM SJP’s. So the last time I replaced it I went with this one that has a screwed on cap rather than a glued on cap. That was about four years ago and still working fine.

Clicky click®

Oh nice Old Guy! That's a great option. I really like the screw on cap.

Sent from my VS990 using Tapatalk

[BARRY]

didn't know there was a screw on cap version! Thanks Old Guy. my avant's glued version separated from the seam, this would solve that!

[Charles.waite]

Normally for a part like this I would go with OEM. Unfortunately I have blown up two OEM SJP’s. So the last time I replaced it I went with this one that has a screwed on cap rather than a glued on cap. That was about four years ago and still working fine.

Clicky click®

Thats the latest revision one. I ran that in my b6 for 3+ years without a single issue. Those updated ones have the glued and screwed cap. Pretty much can't leak unless it physically cracks off.

[MetalMan]

Normally for a part like this I would go with OEM. Unfortunately I have blown up two OEM SJP’s. So the last time I replaced it I went with this one that has a screwed on cap rather than a glued on cap. That was about four years ago and still working fine.

Clicky click®

I'm fairly confident the Genuine ones look like this now... or at least the one on my B5 (AWM engine code) which is Genuine that I bought 1.5 years ago does.

[old guy]

Note that this car already has a vacuum pump for the brake booster. And in certain conditions it doesn't kick on soon enough to meet immediate needs. The SJP fills that gap.

That is true for any automatic Audi. The manual transmission models do not come with a vacuum assist pump.

[old guy]

I'm fairly confident the Genuine ones look like this now... or at least the one on my B5 (AWM engine code) which is Genuine that I bought 1.5 years ago does.

Glad to hear that Audi finally saw the light and made an improvement on it.

[KHARDa4]

What check valve did you use? The one in the B5 line?

I used the boomba racing 1/2 inch or 12mm check valve.

http://www.boombaracing.com/check-valve-12-mm-1-2/

[PreciseD]

I used the boomba racing 1/2 inch or 12mm check valve.

http://www.boombaracing.com/check-valve-12-mm-1-2/

That looks like a good option but I might try the B5 line first.

[Steve Bassen]

Yeah, latest OE revision has the screw on cap. The friction welded old style cap blew apart on mine after about 2k worth of stage1 miles.

[Charles.waite]

I'm fairly confident the Genuine ones look like this now... or at least the one on my B5 (AWM engine code) which is Genuine that I bought 1.5 years ago does.

It's just the latest revision. Often times the aftermarket designs are older revisions.

I bought mine way back in 2011 or something and it was this screw on cap version. I had to get the OEM one as all the aftermarket ones ECS stocked at the time were the shitty old design.