Need some help with injector connections ad o rings

[Cottonmouth]

So I was recently installing a set of JHM intake spacers and ran into some trouble.

For some reason the fuel rail was not coming out without considerable force. Everything was disconnected and should have just come straight out (like the video showed on the instructions DVD). So as it finally came free, it caught on the wiring harness and pulled one of the connectors right off of the harness.


Additionally, I had three out of the 8 o rings come off of the ends of the injectors. FML.

Is the injector harness repairable or does it need to be replaced? I have seen some connectors online but am not sure if it will do the job. As far as the O rings go, I think the O ring is fine. It's the brown plastic ring on the end that has broken.. Do replacement O rings come with that plastic bit?

[924Carrera]

So I was recently installing a set of JHM intake spacers and ran into some trouble.

For some reason the fuel rail was not coming out without considerable force. Everything was disconnected and should have just come straight out (like the video showed on the instructions DVD). So as it finally came free, it caught on the wiring harness and pulled one of the connectors right off of the harness.


Additionally, I had three out of the 8 o rings come off of the ends of the injectors. FML.

Is the injector harness repairable or does it need to be replaced? I have seen some connectors online but am not sure if it will do the job. As far as the O rings go, I think the O ring is fine. It's the brown plastic ring on the end that has broken.. Do replacement O rings come with that plastic bit?

The connector is broken. As the terminal pulled out of the one cavity, it broke the plastic locking tabs off as well. You can buy a new connector (just use the part number that's molded onto your broken one....ETKA has the wrong part number listed for these) but it won't come with terminals, and that's an issue because the terminal ripped right off the wire on the other one. To properly fix it you'd need a new terminal, seal, and the right crimping tool to get it onto the wire. Alternatively you could find a spare at a wrecking yard and splice, which would probably be easier honestly.

The brown plastic rings you're referring to are the pintle caps, and although Audi does not list them separately, JHM sells them for a low cost. It's often recommended to have them on hand because they do break so easily. They will not come with the O-rings.

[Cottonmouth]

The connector is broken. As the terminal pulled out of the one cavity, it broke the plastic locking tabs off as well. You can buy a new connector (just use the part number that's molded onto your broken one....ETKA has the wrong part number listed for these) but it won't come with terminals, and that's an issue because the terminal ripped right off the wire on the other one. To properly fix it you'd need a new terminal, seal, and the right crimping tool to get it onto the wire. Alternatively you could find a spare at a wrecking yard and splice, which would probably be easier honestly.

The brown plastic rings you're referring to are the pintle caps, and although Audi does not list them separately, JHM sells them for a low cost. It's often recommended to have them on hand because they do break so easily. They will not come with the O-rings.

Thanks for the info. If I were to go to a salvage yard to get a replacement, are these connectors unique to the B6 and B7 S4s or are they pretty much universal? Like will an A4 connector work the same?

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[924Carrera]

I am not certain which models have those connectors, but they are definitely unique to the fuel injectors and are not found anywhere else on the car like some of the other sensor connectors. Your best bet would be to write down the part number and check some A4's if that is all that can be found.

[Cottonmouth]

Awesome thanks

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[924Carrera]

According to ECS Tuning, the part 06A973722 fits several different Audi models including the Allroad, 3.0 V6 A4, and the A6. I would double check your part number to make sure it is the same as that. I cannot remember which number I ordered from the dealer but I bought 2 based on what ETKA listed and they ended up being very similar but not quite the same. I then looked at what was actually molded on my broken ones and it was a different part number.

Edit: By "not quite the same" I mean they would not work. They clipped right onto the injectors without any trouble, but the terminals would not fit into the cavities because of the way they were molded. It was clearly for a different application. But whatever yours has molded on it is going to obviously be the right one, and it's still a currently available part, not superseded.

[Cottonmouth]

I went to a local salvage yard and found some connectors in a 4.2 VW Phaeton. They look identical. I hope they will work.

There were several 4.2 engines there in various cars. The biggest problem I found was finding "in tact" connectors. Looks like most of them have been broken while trying to get at the injectors.

[SprintBlueWorld]

I went to a local salvage yard and found some connectors in a 4.2 VW Phaeton. They look identical. I hope they will work.

There were several 4.2 engines there in various cars. The biggest problem I found was finding "in tact" connectors. Looks like most of them have been broken while trying to get at the injectors.

WTF a 4.2 Pheaton that's a rare parts car! Check fleabay there's a lot of stuff on there. Don't forget to lube them and all the other soft parts you take apart with a little vasoline before you put it all back together.

[dmanisgnarly]

Same parts. Just ordered a pheaton injector as a spare for my S4 to keep in the tool kit

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[Cottonmouth]

Same parts. Just ordered a pheaton injector as a spare for my S4 to keep in the tool kit

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That's great news. I wasn't sure if they are exactly the same. The connector look the same but are coloured slightly different.

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[Cottonmouth]

It's been a while since I finished with putting it all back together. I thought I might conclude the story...

I put it all back together after splicing in the new connector for the injector. I was really worried it was not going to work and would be forced to replace the entire wiring harness for the injectors. After a few revolutions the engine fired right up. There were a few extra lights on the dash for a few minutes, but after driving it a bit, they went out. Then after a few more minutes the engine light came on and stayed on. The ending ran just fine and seemed to not suffer any power loss. But the CEL was still concerning.

So I ordered a Ross-Tech cable from Jason at GermanOEM to get to the bottom of the issue. Once it came in and I installed the software on my laptop, I ran a full diagnostic on the car. It showed me that Bank 1 and 2 were lean but there was only one occurrence. I figured this was because the fuel rail was dry when I hooked everything back up and that threw the light. So I cleared the codes and after a week of driving, there has been no more engine light.

I would have to say that after the snub mount was replaced, the car drives much nicer.

The only problem I still have to deal with is I have to take the bumper off again to hook up the second horn that I forgot about when putting everything back together. It sounds terrible with only one. LOL