Questions: Clutch Break In, Bad Engine Mounts? Replace Linkage? 4.2 V8

[SLU_S5]

Hey gang, couple questions:


1.) I had my clutch (Southbend Stage 2 Daily), flywheel (ECS , clutch line, slave cylinder, etc replaced last month (over 1000 miles ago) and babied it for 500 miles in stop-and-go traffic for the break in period as the manufacturer recommended. I haven't launched it yet but I have been having some fun with the thruway on-ramps.

When the new clutch had 0-300ish miles on it, the pedal was extremely light and the shifter felt so light and smooth that it was almost like I could shift just by blowing on it. Now, the pedal has gotten a bit heavier (still lighter than before it was replaced though), and the shifter doesn't feel quite as light but it's still pretty smooth and very easy to change gears. Does the feel of the clutch typically change a little like this as it breaks in?


2.) So I figure my Engine mounts need replacement... I got a CEL for a faulty passenger side engine mount last month and cleared it myself. The light hasn't come back but my lower speed 1-2 and 2-3 shifts are a bit rougher than I ever remember. Shifts are very smooth at cruising speeds, but from a stop light it tends to buck a bit regardless of whether I accelerate quick or slow. Yes, I'll have a sloppy shift here and there but it almost feels like I'm dumping the clutch rather than easing off of it for a smooth shift. It's not terribly violent but it's definitely enough to be annoying. Probably a symptom of that bad engine mount, right? Is it a job I can do myself? Can't seem to find a DIY for the 4.2 mounts... and I heard it's at least 6 hours of labor at most shops.

3.) I'm also wondering if I should replace my shift linkage to tighten things up more. The shifter itself does feel fairly loose and a tad notchy - it was this way before the clutch replacement too. Would anyone recommend the JHM Solid Linkage and Cross Rod upgrade? What might I expect from doing that?

Thanks!
Josh

[danidoza7]

Hey, I recently had my flywheel, clutch, pressure plate and slave cylinder replaced too (Audi S5), due to a faulty throw out bearing that was seriously causing the majority of my problems. I went OEM on everything.

I have a JHM short shifter and did not like the way my mechanic position the shifter after finishing the job, so I went in a re-positioned it myself. This can be easily done to your car too. Trust me, you do not need a new shifter linkage. The only thing i would recommend here is a JHM short throw shifter, or the ECS short throw shifter. My buddy has the ECS, and I personally like his a littler better then mine. He has a lot more positioning settings than i do.

I am almost at 700 miles in and still have the habit of "babying the clutch". 300 of those miles were on the express way, so this is my reasoning. I did not feel any difference from my clutch, or shifting since the day i got it back. everything is super smooth and crisp. I will say that after re-positioning the shifter? I feel more engaged with the car.

[NaiveTurtle]

SLU, how many miles are on your car? My guess is that you are on OEM mounts. From my experience my motor mounts were completely shot at 55k, one was all but torn through and the other wasn't far behind it. The install for these is not fun, luckily I did mine when I had the motor out to replace my failed clutch. In order to do these without removing the engine you are going to have to lower one side of the subframe at a time to get the mount out, again it's not going to be fun. You will need some way of supporting the engine from above so either a support bar or an engine hoist. From there you will remove some components until you get clear access to the subframe bolts. Then you will unbolt the motor mount from both the engine and subframe. Lower the subframe and pull the motor mount out. Once you do this for each side and put it back together you will need to make sure you get an alignment or at least have it checked to make sure it is still within spec. Note: this is very simplified version of what you need to do. A DIY of this will probably take you 8-10 hours.

Regarding the shifter linkage/crossrod, I have noticed that since installing a short shifter in my car the shifter is very sloppy from left to right while in gear. I am attributing this to the shifter linkage/crossrod since it uses a plastic ball joint which easily wears out over time. Since JHM is the only one I know who is making an upgraded shifter linkage I would say go with that. However, the install will be a pain while the transmission is in the car. You will have to lower the transmission as far as possible to get to the linkage bolts. From there you will have to fish it out of the transmission tunnel and replace it. The two? bolts that hold the linkage and crossrod in place are accessed blind so don't expect to get a good visual on them.

Also, regarding the notchiness. This could be caused by the transmission gear oil starting to breakdown. Audi claims the transmission oil never needs to be replaced since there is no filter in the transmission and it is a closed system. But that is non-sense. The oil is beaten on every day through mechanical usage, it is going to breakdown. Notchiness usually comes from the oil starting to breakdown. A transmission flush would certainly be advised if you are over say 65-70k miles.

Another way to remove some of the sloppiness you are feeling during shifting and clutch engagement/disengagement would be transmission and rear differential mount upgrades. I know 034 makes an upgraded street density transmission mount. And both 034 and Eurocode make transmission mount inserts. Apikol makes a rear differential mount insert and I think an upgraded read differential mount. All of these will tighten up the drivetrain and make shifts a bit less sloppy, only downfall will be a bit of increases vibration in the cabin through your shifter.

Sucks you didn't notice this when you had them put the new clutch in. With the transmission out it would have been an extra 20-30 minutes to install the new shifter linkage.