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  1. #1
    Senior Member Two Rings
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    Exclamation Urgent Help please!

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    Hi guys i need some urgent help. Today i was working on the car replacing oil cooler, oil change, filter, thermostat, Jplug, coolant tank, flush, a few sensors and a couple of other things etc..
    Car is an 02 a4 1.8t 5sp quattro if that helps.

    while having everything apart and got up the the j plug. That thing does not want to free itself at all. I spent about 2 hrs along just on the j plug. I was so frustrated. I wanted to work on the car myself and save labor cost but now i have second thoughts. why does everything has to be hard and over engineer on these German cars. Good for nothing. fix something, and something else breaks. I always worked on JDM cars and never had issues.

    anyways this is my daily driven car so i need to up and running asap. urgent help. I try to remove the j plug but it would not come out at all, i force it so much that it broke in half. I use a flat head and hammer, dermal that shit, vise grip and some wd40 to help with the o ring but NOTHING. Please help what should i do??

    here are some picture of the broke j plug.

    [IMG][/IMG]
    [IMG][/IMG]
    [IMG][/IMG]


    while i was trying to figure it out i notice this hose that crap out into pieces. What does this hose do? and would anyone have a part # for it i need to order a new one. Both ends are gone.

    [IMG][/IMG]
    [IMG][/IMG]
    [IMG][/IMG]
    [IMG][/IMG]

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Three Rings cmiguel32's Avatar
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    Aug 13 2007
    AZ Member #
    20286
    My Garage
    2003 A4 / 2014 S4 / 2017 Q5
    Location
    NC

    I'm assuming you tried pushing the jplug out from the inside. Looks like you need a new crankcase breather tube too.
    Chris
    B6 A4: 2.0 stroker, IE cams, JHM 01E/Stg4 RS4 clutch/FW, SEM manifold, EFR7163, Motoza, ID1050x, Walbro 450, Garrett FMIC, 034 mounts/RSB, Koni coils, Hotchkis FSB, 18z, VFIZ, etc.

    B8.5 S4: EPL DP 57/187 (E40), 75mm TB, Ported SC, Meth, Autotech HPFP, Killer Chiller, Borla Exhaust, Merc HX, JHM SS/3R/Race pipes, Eurocode Sway, 034 springs, CR15
    429 whp/431 wtq 93 oct (stock TB)

    Insta: QuattroNC

  3. #3
    Senior Member Two Rings Preston_08's Avatar
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    Apr 14 2014
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    187316
    My Garage
    1998 Chevrolet C1500
    Location
    Richlands, VA

    Urgent Help please!

    Pictures aren't working....I used a long flat head screw driver and a hammer to beat mine out. Stick the flat hear through the thermostat hole and hammer away.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Last edited by Preston_08; 08-19-2016 at 09:06 PM.

  4. #4
    Senior Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by cmiguel32 View Post
    I'm assuming you tried pushing the jplug out from the inside. Looks like you need a new crankcase breather tube too.
    yea i was try to push it from the inside and pulling from the outside. and the damage hose i have picture is the crankcase breather tube?? if so is there a part # i looking for a # on the audi part site. but couldnt find it.
    what does this part do tho? i mean cause before all this i think it was just laying there resting it was completely crack off. and that hose tube is fill with gunk.

  5. #5
    Senior Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by Preston_08 View Post
    Pictures aren't working....I used a long flat head screw driver and a hammer to beat mine out. Stick the flat hear through the thermostat hole and hammer away.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    not sure why the picture is not working for you?? but yea i also just a flat head and hammer and beat on it like for hours and nothing. same through the t stat hole but its slightly curve. so pretty much im hammering it sideways.

  6. #6
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    The crankcase breather tube is cheap and easy to fix. But you should also check all of your PCV hoses and valve while you're at it. The j plugg is what it is, coolant has leak sealer in it, especially the OEM stuff. So I imagine it's glued in there. You're just going to have to grind it out with your Dremel or drill it out somehow. I wouldn't want you to mar the sealing surface by hitting it with something. But if you can do it safely... these cars wouldn't be so much trouble if the different components that comprised the vehicle were made better in the first place. The vehicles overall capability and functionality is fantastic. But the manufacture of the components were gone over by the accountants pretty hardcore.

    Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
    APR exhaust, HFC, 225 injectors, APR II program, KO4, South Bend II endurance clutch and SMFW, Forge Tip+piping, Apikol SMIC, Stern motor+trans mounts, Stern Snub, 034 street density arms, Hotchkis sway bars, Lemforter links, Bilstein B8, B7 S4 calipers, powerstop braided lines, Centric drilled rotors, PowerStop Carbon Fiber pads, Timken bearings, Gates racing timing belt, DENSO IQ01-27 plugs, R8 coils, Motul Xcess 5w40, MANN 950/4 filter, gear300, CHF202, Motul RBF 660.

  7. #7
    Veteran Member Four Rings Furly's Avatar
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    Dec 19 2013
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    Bay Area, CA

    When i did mine, the J-plug came right out pretty easy with a flat head. Pried it out.

    I used a smaller flat head to get it loose and a big fat flat head to pry on it. The 1.8T isnt hard to work on, just be patient and get creative.
    Audi Club Bay Area

  8. #8
    Senior Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by jacobsen View Post
    The crankcase breather tube is cheap and easy to fix. But you should also check all of your PCV hoses and valve while you're at it. The j plugg is what it is, coolant has leak sealer in it, especially the OEM stuff. So I imagine it's glued in there. You're just going to have to grind it out with your Dremel or drill it out somehow. I wouldn't want you to mar the sealing surface by hitting it with something. But if you can do it safely... these cars wouldn't be so much trouble if the different components that comprised the vehicle were made better in the first place. The vehicles overall capability and functionality is fantastic. But the manufacture of the components were gone over by the accountants pretty hardcore.

    Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
    i will double check. i dont think i will have enough room to drill it out. and with the dremel i just had barely enough room to fit.
    and for the breather tube does it need any o ring on either end? cause both end are stuck after they broke off. lol

  9. #9
    Senior Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by Furly View Post
    When i did mine, the J-plug came right out pretty easy with a flat head. Pried it out.

    I used a smaller flat head to get it loose and a big fat flat head to pry on it. The 1.8T isnt hard to work on, just be patient and get creative.
    i will try again, but not matter how many times i pry with a flat head and also with a hammer banging it wouldnt move. my hands are killing me lol

  10. #10
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by a1rh3adSz View Post
    i will double check. i dont think i will have enough room to drill it out. and with the dremel i just had barely enough room to fit.
    and for the breather tube does it need any o ring on either end? cause both end are stuck after they broke off. lol
    Yes the crankcase breather tube has a large o-ring, orange in color if I recall correctly. It is not a typical round O ring. It's got a flat top and bottom and it's relatively thick. You can get it on eBay, I don't have a part number off the top of my head I'm sure if someone here does. I would recommend getting a map gas torch and melting that J plug out as a final solution if nothing else seems to work.

    Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
    APR exhaust, HFC, 225 injectors, APR II program, KO4, South Bend II endurance clutch and SMFW, Forge Tip+piping, Apikol SMIC, Stern motor+trans mounts, Stern Snub, 034 street density arms, Hotchkis sway bars, Lemforter links, Bilstein B8, B7 S4 calipers, powerstop braided lines, Centric drilled rotors, PowerStop Carbon Fiber pads, Timken bearings, Gates racing timing belt, DENSO IQ01-27 plugs, R8 coils, Motul Xcess 5w40, MANN 950/4 filter, gear300, CHF202, Motul RBF 660.

  11. #11
    Senior Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by jacobsen View Post
    Yes the crankcase breather tube has a large o-ring, orange in color if I recall correctly. It is not a typical round O ring. It's got a flat top and bottom and it's relatively thick. You can get it on eBay, I don't have a part number off the top of my head I'm sure if someone here does. I would recommend getting a map gas torch and melting that J plug out as a final solution if nothing else seems to work.

    Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
    thanks, will this kit work? I will probably replace some other valves also.

    https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Sit...ube/ES2214900/

  12. #12
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by a1rh3adSz View Post
    thanks, will this kit work? I will probably replace some other valves also.

    https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Sit...ube/ES2214900/
    The PCV components in this car are definitely under designed and they even went through the trouble of trying to redesign them in this generation A4. I believe there are three different PCV kits for this generation. Off the top of my Noggin I'm not sure which one you should get. My car has the three-way PCV valve. This one in the picture isn't the one I have. It goes by vin.
    APR exhaust, HFC, 225 injectors, APR II program, KO4, South Bend II endurance clutch and SMFW, Forge Tip+piping, Apikol SMIC, Stern motor+trans mounts, Stern Snub, 034 street density arms, Hotchkis sway bars, Lemforter links, Bilstein B8, B7 S4 calipers, powerstop braided lines, Centric drilled rotors, PowerStop Carbon Fiber pads, Timken bearings, Gates racing timing belt, DENSO IQ01-27 plugs, R8 coils, Motul Xcess 5w40, MANN 950/4 filter, gear300, CHF202, Motul RBF 660.

  13. #13
    Senior Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by jacobsen View Post
    The PCV components in this car are definitely under designed and they even went through the trouble of trying to redesign them in this generation A4. I believe there are three different PCV kits for this generation. Off the top of my Noggin I'm not sure which one you should get. My car has the three-way PCV valve. This one in the picture isn't the one I have. It goes by vin.
    oh i see. but for me to get my car running asap this the part i need that was crack apart ?
    https://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B6_A4...ns/PCV/ES7934/

  14. #14
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by a1rh3adSz View Post
    oh i see. but for me to get my car running asap this the part i need that was crack apart ?
    https://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B6_A4...ns/PCV/ES7934/
    Yep. Easy fix, the important part is not to let any plastic pieces of the old breather tube fall into the oil filter housing, this is imperative. If you can fashion some kind of protective catch so that nothing falls down into it.

    Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
    APR exhaust, HFC, 225 injectors, APR II program, KO4, South Bend II endurance clutch and SMFW, Forge Tip+piping, Apikol SMIC, Stern motor+trans mounts, Stern Snub, 034 street density arms, Hotchkis sway bars, Lemforter links, Bilstein B8, B7 S4 calipers, powerstop braided lines, Centric drilled rotors, PowerStop Carbon Fiber pads, Timken bearings, Gates racing timing belt, DENSO IQ01-27 plugs, R8 coils, Motul Xcess 5w40, MANN 950/4 filter, gear300, CHF202, Motul RBF 660.

  15. #15
    Veteran Member Three Rings Let it snow's Avatar
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    Aug 24 2014
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    02 1.8TQ Sport 5 speed, 05 1.8TQ 6 speed
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    You may not want to hear this. I was in a similar situation, it would not budge hitting at the odd angle through the thermostat opening. Lucky for me I was doing my timing belt/ water pump replacement at the same time. The only way mine was coming out was to us a socket extension through the open water pump hole and hit it straight on with a hammer. It was so seized a straight on hit would only free mine. Good luck.

  16. #16
    Senior Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by jacobsen View Post
    Yep. Easy fix, the important part is not to let any plastic pieces of the old breather tube fall into the oil filter housing, this is imperative. If you can fashion some kind of protective catch so that nothing falls down into it.

    Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
    thanks. i will try my best to cover it up before i remove the left overs.

  17. #17
    Senior Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by Let it snow View Post
    You may not want to hear this. I was in a similar situation, it would not budge hitting at the odd angle through the thermostat opening. Lucky for me I was doing my timing belt/ water pump replacement at the same time. The only way mine was coming out was to us a socket extension through the open water pump hole and hit it straight on with a hammer. It was so seized a straight on hit would only free mine. Good luck.
    im trying to give it another shot again. LOL

  18. #18
    Senior Member Two Rings
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    okay guys, an update on my progress it all worked out great. Thanks for all your help and advice. For the j plug it was in good shape until i broke it in half LOL. I remove the intake mani and fuel line to get more room. I heat up that sucka with a heat gun till it was nice and hot and took a long flat head and wack the hell out of it for like 30 mins till it finally gave up. I think the o ring was giving the fight to come out.

    and for the Crankcase Breather Tube i got every bit out and why the cheap design with just the round ring support around the tube.
    I might have drop a piece or two of the breather tube in the oil housing, But its a really small piece tho. hopefully its fine.
    The T shape tube thats a three way is so weak now its about to crack apart any second now. all that gunk in it. I am going to replace all that with the ecs kit.

    here are some pic

    [IMG][/IMG]
    [IMG][/IMG]
    [IMG][/IMG]
    [IMG][/IMG]
    [IMG][/IMG]

  19. #19
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Attaboy! I would hit it with map gas. Volkswagen doesn't take emissions seriously lol they slapped those PCV components together out of a plumbers tool box. Trouble is ya need it to run right... all the plastics fail...
    APR exhaust, HFC, 225 injectors, APR II program, KO4, South Bend II endurance clutch and SMFW, Forge Tip+piping, Apikol SMIC, Stern motor+trans mounts, Stern Snub, 034 street density arms, Hotchkis sway bars, Lemforter links, Bilstein B8, B7 S4 calipers, powerstop braided lines, Centric drilled rotors, PowerStop Carbon Fiber pads, Timken bearings, Gates racing timing belt, DENSO IQ01-27 plugs, R8 coils, Motul Xcess 5w40, MANN 950/4 filter, gear300, CHF202, Motul RBF 660.

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