No Check Engine Light when key turned to on

[danbfree]

My mechanic is stumped too, but my CEL does not come on even when it should when my key is turned to On... I did some searching but have come up empty. Just got the car recently, 2.0t Quattro, and it's had the whole laundry list of common issues repaired under CPO warranty by previous owner... With all their complaints of CEL's and all the repairs done, I wonder if dealer disabled it? LOL

The only other thing I can think of is that there is a 12k mileage gap from end of dealer service records to when I got it and maybe someone tuned it? I did confirm it still has old diaphragm DV so I doubt it though... Any other theories?

[wriscolf]

Stange that you mentioned that. That only happened to me a few times when i had my multiple issues. i lost track of when it started popping up again. These are the things i did but you dont sound to be having any issues. I changed alternator and battery. Also changed the 614 or 644 relays under ECY. I also unlocked my APR tune since it has a theift code. after that i never seen it disapear like that. Any other issues with your car? My cruise control is still gone thought. trying to figure that out as well as other things.

[danbfree]

Stange that you mentioned that. That only happened to me a few times when i had my multiple issues. i lost track of when it started popping up again. These are the things i did but you dont sound to be having any issues. I changed alternator and battery. Also changed the 614 or 644 relays under ECY. I also unlocked my APR tune since it has a theift code. after that i never seen it disapear like that. Any other issues with your car? My cruise control is still gone thought. trying to figure that out as well as other things.

Thanks for taking the time to reply... I can tell you it did have a bunch of codes directly related to the issues that were repaired under CPO warranty that were still stored, so my shop cleared those... Also, I did change key FOB recently and accidentally put it into SAFE mode, but I cleared that up too... I wonder if it will now eventually clear on it's own, but in the meantime it did pass our OBD scan only smog check where I live so maybe I shouldn't care when I'm looking to tune soon? :)

[axnjaksn]

I wouldn't worry about it... id be more concerned if it stayed on all the time... if it never comes on that might be a good thing hahaha. get your jhm tune already!!!!!

[pezgoon]

I know its led but maybe the led isn"t working? Have you ever seen it come on or can you force it to come on to make sure it works at all? I only say this as when I just bought mine, the turn signal clicker worked intermittently and kept making a shorting sound and ended up being that the solder broke on the base of it and I had to re-solder it so it is possible for the solder to apparently be bad on them(Instrument panel) although I haven't seen much about it

[Rulty]

I immediately thought the led burnt out or shorted, which electrical problems wouldn't surprise me. The dealer wouldn't turn the light off permenatly, they just don't do that. I'd unplug MAF or something easy and run it to see if the light can be forced on.. Do the other lights come on when you turn the key?

[danbfree]

I wouldn't worry about it... id be more concerned if it stayed on all the time... if it never comes on that might be a good thing hahaha. get your jhm tune already!!!!!

That's what I'm thinking, as long as codes do get logged that can be scanned for diagnosis as needed.

[danbfree]

I immediately thought the led burnt out or shorted, which electrical problems wouldn't surprise me. The dealer wouldn't turn the light off permenatly, they just don't do that. I'd unplug MAF or something easy and run it to see if the light can be forced on.. Do the other lights come on when you turn the key?

Interesting... all the other lights work fine, I'll keep an eye on it and see... if I were to intentionally try to make it come on, what would be a easy and harmless way to do it?

[danbfree]

I immediately thought the led burnt out or shorted, which electrical problems wouldn't surprise me. The dealer wouldn't turn the light off permenatly, they just don't do that. I'd unplug MAF or something easy and run it to see if the light can be forced on.. Do the other lights come on when you turn the key?

OK, unplugging MAF would be easy to try, and yes, all the other lights do come on just fine... After I had cleared my SAFE mode after the issue with my key even my windows wouldn't go all the way up or down automatically, just did the manual amount while holding for awhile but now works fine... I won't worry about it for now but keep an eye on it.

[Theiceman]

just the ignition on forces it on .. check for black electrical tap covering something. Dealer would not disable it i would think. In fact they should not have sold it like that , they can lose their license.

[wriscolf]

I find the purge valve would be easier for me. and i know it automatically throws code once moved. Simply remove the purge valve closest to the front of the car. it should be a simple clamp and its right on top of the motor. Now the safety of it i am not to sure. It sounds a bit scary since its a vacume line. I have an APR tune. Love how I can change the tune from the cruise control. It takes 2 minutes. And if i understand correctly the upgrades are free. Just reflash again. But I might be wrong with that.

[danbfree]

just the ignition on forces it on .. check for black electrical tap covering something. Dealer would not disable it i would think. In fact they should not have sold it like that , they can lose their license.

I got it from a Mitsubishi dealer with a cracked oil filter housing and (still have) a nasty rattle when going over light bumps at low speeds... It also didn't have good oil in it, I had to get an oil change with full synthetic and it ran better immediately... so ya, they never even really went over the car very well at all, i'm lucky I found all the CPO service records through the Audi dealer I found on the car fax.

[danbfree]

I find the purge valve would be easier for me. and i know it automatically throws code once moved. Simply remove the purge valve closest to the front of the car. it should be a simple clamp and its right on top of the motor. Now the safety of it i am not to sure. It sounds a bit scary since its a vacume line. I have an APR tune. Love how I can change the tune from the cruise control. It takes 2 minutes. And if i understand correctly the upgrades are free. Just reflash again. But I might be wrong with that.

It sounds like APR is a solid tune and is one of the first that came out but I hear JHM blows it away and I have a shop not too far away that could flash in person without having to buy a cable either... BUT, since I'm probably going to with a HFC as well, I really don't want any bad emissions codes, whether the CEL comes on or not... From what I understand, APR has the least chance of throwing a code running an HFC, but I think as long as the O2 sensors are done right, like the major HFC's offer, it shouldn't be a problem with any tune.

[pezgoon]

JHM's HFC wont throw a code either as they put a spacer on it to guarentee it, and supposedly they do adjust the tune to account for the HFC/test pipe, then again, thats why they sell both of those with the spacers. And even other tunes will pick up the CEL without a spacer in it. I'm sure jake could chime in and confirm either of them. and personally I'm gonna go for the "better" tune (its relative opinion) and just have a spacer, I see no issue with running a spacer anyways.

The only time people have an issue is with the visual or sniffer the HFC doesn't pass if they look for a certificate number (like california) and I don't think it passes a sniffer but I'm not positive, again jake would be best answering those. But there is another thread discussing JHM's tune have the CEL come on and people said that it isn't true or that it isn't anymore

You could litterally pull anything that is engine dependent to throw a code but I agree that the MAF is pretty easy to get to since its right on the airbox, thats what I would do.

And in regards to your windows, any time the battery is unplugged you have to reprogram the windows automatic function, you have to hold each window against their maximum and minimum positions (top and bottom) for the system to re learn the stops.

So you hold close when they are closed and open when they are open, I think you only have to do it until the motors click off (about 1 second) but I generally do it for like 3-5 seconds just because lol (you can listen real close and hear the motors click off) do it from the drivers seat and I do each window individually and youll be good to go

[Rulty]

just the ignition on forces it on .. check for black electrical tap covering something. Dealer would not disable it i would think. In fact they should not have sold it like that , they can lose their license.

and depending on where he is it won't pass inspection

[Okedokey]

It would be a fail safe light, if any malfunction including the light being false positive would turn it on. The LED has to be gone imo.

[Rulty]

It would be a fail safe light, if any malfunction including the light being false positive would turn it on. The LED has to be gone imo.

really want to agree with this.. I had a car that had a CEL but when taken to auto zone they said I didn't have any when the car was scanned.. Turns out I had a blown fuse that was causing it to come on. If I recall it was a fuse for my obd port.

[yeoj112689]

I bet the PO either disabled the light or took it out so they didn't have to look at it in stead of fixing the issue causing it.

[pezgoon]

I bet the PO either disabled the light or took it out so they didn't have to look at it in stead of fixing the issue causing it.

wellll its an led, so to take it out thatd be a lot of work and he said when scanning there were no additional codes, we're still waiting on him trying to force a code though, that would give us a definitive answer

[Rulty]

Defintely a weird situation. Shouldn't take this long to force a code through. With every other light working fine I'm lost though interesting to see the solution.

[wriscolf]

When i bought my car the previous owner did it and I am happy it was the APR tune rather than any other. I can't talk for other companies because i dont know anything about it. What i love about APR is the different tunes i can do (modes) and other features. Like erasing codes and security lock out. I dont use it often but its good to have it just in case.

Lets say i lend my car to my dad or little brother, I can put it in mode 1 (stock tune) and not have the anxiety of them under estimating the power. Stock tune has enough power for what kind of driving they do. Another benefit is that 93 is kinda hard to get depending on where you are. I went to Boston this weekend and i couldnt find a gas station near me with 93. I was to a point that i said screw it. ill put the highest octanes the next person has and put it in stock tune just to be safe or my mode 2 which is 91 octane tune. I love having these options available although i dont use it often. I did find a 93 octane gas station so i was fine but i had options.

Idk if JHM can do that but thats was one reason i was going with APR from the jump. Love that they been around for a long time. My brother, when he had an Audi, all his cars had APR and no big issues. So i guess the name and their time around these car give me confidence on them. On 93, its enough power.

Also question, my car when it was first bought it was a cali car. Are you saying that cali car's cat is more restrictive?

[pezgoon]

When i bought my car the previous owner did it and I am happy it was the APR tune rather than any other. I can't talk for other companies because i dont know anything about it. What i love about APR is the different tunes i can do (modes) and other features. Like erasing codes and security lock out. I dont use it often but its good to have it just in case.

Lets say i lend my car to my dad or little brother, I can put it in mode 1 (stock tune) and not have the anxiety of them under estimating the power. Stock tune has enough power for what kind of driving they do. Another benefit is that 93 is kinda hard to get depending on where you are. I went to Boston this weekend and i couldnt find a gas station near me with 93. I was to a point that i said screw it. ill put the highest octanes the next person has and put it in stock tune just to be safe or my mode 2 which is 91 octane tune. I love having these options available although i dont use it often. I did find a 93 octane gas station so i was fine but i had options.

Idk if JHM can do that but thats was one reason i was going with APR from the jump. Love that they been around for a long time. My brother, when he had an Audi, all his cars had APR and no big issues. So i guess the name and their time around these car give me confidence on them. On 93, its enough power.

Also question, my car when it was first bought it was a cali car. Are you saying that cali car's cat is more restrictive?

Yes, they have to pass the CARB emissions standards and I believe there is three different emissions levels for the US and I think the Cali audi's are SULEV (Super ultra light emissions vehicle) whereas the rest of the US is just ULEV cars (I'm not positive its just what I've seen with vin decode info)

That is why I keep considering the APR tune personally, more so though so that I can go to a lower mode and keep MYSELF out of trouble lolol. So I'm still stuck between the JHM and APR for that instant switch ability

[wriscolf]

Yes, they have to pass the CARB emissions standards and I believe there is three different emissions levels for the US and I think the Cali audi's are SULEV (Super ultra light emissions vehicle) whereas the rest of the US is just ULEV cars (I'm not positive its just what I've seen with vin decode info)

That is why I keep considering the APR tune personally, more so though so that I can go to a lower mode and keep MYSELF out of trouble lolol. So I'm still stuck between the JHM and APR for that instant switch ability

Good to know. My car was originally a Cali car... i guess i have the restrictions. How can i find out and make it non-Cali emotions? Does it impact performance that much?

I think it all depends. Personally, I am not about big numbers, I am more about reliability. As we all know thanks to Uncle Ben, "With great power comes great responsibilities", I feel the more numbers you push out the more things you will run into. The car itself wasnt made to handle that much so i am sure with any tune you bring down the life expenancy of the car and motor and you are absolutely right. I get many hondas and nissans wanting to play. A lot of them are younger drivers too so I doubt they are pushing big numbers so i have to restrain myself and remind myself that my rims and tune cost as much as their whole car and let them go.

My dad isnt use to the whole turbo concepts so he expects a more linear pull then a turbo car. I wouldnt want him getting into turbo range and get a shot of 22psi (or whatever the tune is) straight to someones rear. From what i have been reading both tune look great depending on what you looking for. APR might have less power but i feel its a little more mature. I try to keep my car right under where the turbo starts to build boost on local roads. When I getting on the highway i like how quickly i can get to high way speeds and the tune is great. I personally dont need the extra 10-20 more hp or torque.

BUT! since i think the cat is where the restriction is at, I might have to put a HFC and I can upgrade my tune. lol Might as well. The website says the stages are free tunes so why not lol

[danbfree]

Sorry guys, I haven't been getting thread updates on this and just stumbled back on this... I guess it comes down to the car DID pass OBD scan emissions that I had to have done when I first bought it, so I'm not too worried about the CEL not coming on unless it won't come on even when it should after a problem that needs to be addressed. so that said, ya, I probably should try to force a CEL through unplugging the MAF, I'll have to try that when I have time, perhaps tomorrow night... As far as the HFC, still debating between 034 (w/spacer) and JHM... the 034 is a 250 cell and the JHM is a 300... Not sure if that affects performance but 250 cell does sound less restrictive and even with $20 add on for the spacer the 034 is also a touch cheaper with free shipping.

[adam044]

Drive with the gas cap off, should throw an Evap leak in a short amount of time.

Get a test pipe.

[pezgoon]

Good to know. My car was originally a Cali car... i guess i have the restrictions. How can i find out and make it non-Cali emotions? Does it impact performance that much?

I think it all depends. Personally, I am not about big numbers, I am more about reliability. As we all know thanks to Uncle Ben, "With great power comes great responsibilities", I feel the more numbers you push out the more things you will run into. The car itself wasnt made to handle that much so i am sure with any tune you bring down the life expenancy of the car and motor and you are absolutely right. I get many hondas and nissans wanting to play. A lot of them are younger drivers too so I doubt they are pushing big numbers so i have to restrain myself and remind myself that my rims and tune cost as much as their whole car and let them go.

My dad isnt use to the whole turbo concepts so he expects a more linear pull then a turbo car. I wouldnt want him getting into turbo range and get a shot of 22psi (or whatever the tune is) straight to someones rear. From what i have been reading both tune look great depending on what you looking for. APR might have less power but i feel its a little more mature. I try to keep my car right under where the turbo starts to build boost on local roads. When I getting on the highway i like how quickly i can get to high way speeds and the tune is great. I personally dont need the extra 10-20 more hp or torque.

BUT! since i think the cat is where the restriction is at, I might have to put a HFC and I can upgrade my tune. lol Might as well. The website says the stages are free tunes so why not lol

If you look for your emissions sticker, its under the hood towards the windshield on the hood, its silver and blends in (if the car is silver anyways like mine lol) it'll say which specs it conforms to, mine passes federal ULEV and cali ULEV, and mines been in NH its whole life, so no matter where its made it apparently has to pass cali's ULEV, but from what I saw while VAG-Com ing some stuff apparently there was a SULEV option available, but I don't know for where it was required

Drive with the gas cap off, should throw an Evap leak in a short amount of time.

Get a test pipe.

Lol, lets not open that can of worms again!

[adam044]

Nah lets :)

[danbfree]

Good to know. My car was originally a Cali car... i guess i have the restrictions. How can i find out and make it non-Cali emotions? Does it impact performance that much?

I think it all depends. Personally, I am not about big numbers, I am more about reliability. As we all know thanks to Uncle Ben, "With great power comes great responsibilities", I feel the more numbers you push out the more things you will run into. The car itself wasnt made to handle that much so i am sure with any tune you bring down the life expenancy of the car and motor and you are absolutely right. I get many hondas and nissans wanting to play. A lot of them are younger drivers too so I doubt they are pushing big numbers so i have to restrain myself and remind myself that my rims and tune cost as much as their whole car and let them go.

My dad isnt use to the whole turbo concepts so he expects a more linear pull then a turbo car. I wouldnt want him getting into turbo range and get a shot of 22psi (or whatever the tune is) straight to someones rear. From what i have been reading both tune look great depending on what you looking for. APR might have less power but i feel its a little more mature. I try to keep my car right under where the turbo starts to build boost on local roads. When I getting on the highway i like how quickly i can get to high way speeds and the tune is great. I personally dont need the extra 10-20 more hp or torque.

BUT! since i think the cat is where the restriction is at, I might have to put a HFC and I can upgrade my tune. lol Might as well. The website says the stages are free tunes so why not lol

Don't think that just a Stage I tune with exhaust mods is going to lower the life of the engine significantly.. You have to keep in mind that VAG went ultra-conservative on the tune for their first DI engine, so as long as you upgrade the DV and keep up with the maintenance you should be alright... Especially with the mods you have, a HFC should help a lot and perhaps even lower under hood temps to minimize any additional wear... Also, a Stage I tune is nowhere near 22 psi, you're looking at probably 16 and if you didn't upgrade your DV I wonder if it's even holding that.

[pezgoon]

Nah lets :)

lol

[danbfree]

Drive with the gas cap off, should throw an Evap leak in a short amount of time.

Get a test pipe.

But will that code clear pretty quickly if it does throw and I put the gas cap back on? Also, as stated, any advice about a TEST pipe will be ignored, I'm not TESTing or tracking my car and intend to run clean.

[adam044]

But will that code clear pretty quickly if it does throw and I put the gas cap back on? Also, as stated, any advice about a TEST pipe will be ignored, I'm not TESTing or tracking my car and intend to run clean.

I'm not sure. You don't have any way to check/clear codes?

I would recommend at the very least an iPhone/android app with a VeePeak mini that will allow you to clear and read codes. Cost you about $30 total.

PS
You should test out a test pipe. It's great.

[danbfree]

I'm not sure. You don't have any way to check/clear codes?

I would recommend at the very least an iPhone/android app with a VeePeak mini that will allow you to clear and read codes. Cost you about $30 total.

PS
You should test out a test pipe. It's great.

Nice, didn't know there was such a budget way to pull codes, I'll definitely look into that!

PS. If I do end up tracking my car I'll keep a test pipe handy for that.... Seriously though, since we DO have emissions where I live it's too much of a pain to swap back and forth and I don't want a car that will soon be a DD with my young son in it to be smelling like fumes... From my research, the BIG jump is going from OEM to HFC and from there a test pipe only adds a little more flow.

[pezgoon]

you can also ebay a knock off vag-com, about the same money, does the same thing

[wriscolf]

Don't think that just a Stage I tune with exhaust mods is going to lower the life of the engine significantly.. You have to keep in mind that VAG went ultra-conservative on the tune for their first DI engine, so as long as you upgrade the DV and keep up with the maintenance you should be alright... Especially with the mods you have, a HFC should help a lot and perhaps even lower under hood temps to minimize any additional wear... Also, a Stage I tune is nowhere near 22 psi, you're looking at probably 16 and if you didn't upgrade your DV I wonder if it's even holding that.

I was just giving some suggestions and throwing random numbers but its close on APR tune stage 1. I think it peaks somewhere in the 20s then holds somewhere in mid teens. Again, im not in it for max power. which is what i was suggesting for you. it all depends on what you want.

[danbfree]

I was just giving some suggestions and throwing random numbers but its close on APR tune stage 1. I think it peaks somewhere in the 20s then holds somewhere in mid teens. Again, im not in it for max power. which is what i was suggesting for you. it all depends on what you want.

Interesting, I thought I saw it was only 16psi, I'll have to look for the link and double check.

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[adam044]

you can also ebay a knock off vag-com, about the same money, does the same thing

Hit or miss. I've had an Audi for 3 years now and still don't have VAG COM. I just got the Bluetooth reader this year too. Tells you a lot more than just codes too. Well worth the money.

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Nice, didn't know there was such a budget way to pull codes, I'll definitely look into that!

PS. If I do end up tracking my car I'll keep a test pipe handy for that.... Seriously though, since we DO have emissions where I live it's too much of a pain to swap back and forth and I don't want a car that will soon be a DD with my young son in it to be smelling like fumes... From my research, the BIG jump is going from OEM to HFC and from there a test pipe only adds a little more flow.

iPhone or android? I'll link you to it.

[danbfree]

Hit or miss. I've had an Audi for 3 years now and still don't have VAG COM. I just got the Bluetooth reader this year too. Tells you a lot more than just codes too. Well worth the money.

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iPhone or android? I'll link you to it.

Android, I see the adapters on Amazon but didn't have time to research if software was extra, etc.. Would prefer Bluetooth if it's reliable enough.

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