During an oil change, slight beige creamy looking liquid substance in the oil

[doublespeeded]

Hi guys,

Firstly, I had carried out a search on this forum regarding other peoples experiences.
Rather than in the oil pain as liquid form, there are a lot of posts regarding whitish substance/build up on oil caps etc, that I assume may be a little different?

responses I've noticed are usually; Moisture, PCV, short commutes, coolant, gaskets or oil coolers.

The only reason I am little concerned is that I noticed during this recent oil change, that was about 2000km (1,242 Miles) after the alleged dealership service and I had never noticed it in any of the Japanese cars I've owned in the past.

After that oil change, I struggled to get the drain plug to 100% seal (I had mentioned in my other post). So taking the plug OFF and putting it back on several times, I lost a bit of oil that I collected in a drain pan. The oil is now 80km (49 Miles) old and I still noticed the very small amount of beige creamy substance.

The cars mileage is currently at 37,000km (23,000 miles), stock with no engine mods.
so my questions are:
1.) Should I replace the PVC valve anyhow? I heard that it is a weak part and should be changed/upgraded.
2.) Should I install a Oil catch can, in order to prevent blow by? I heard even for stock motors, that you should have one in place, especially on a turbocharged vehicle.
3.) is there anything else that could possibly be contributing to this if it isn't normal?

Thanks again

[8T_BoCO]

1) There should be an open recall (17F9) for the Crankcase Pressure Regulating Valve for 2011-2014 models. The bladder inside can tear, throw a code, and have rough idle as a symptom.

2) I'd be hesitant to out-think Audi engineers, but others here will likely have well-reasoned opinions.

3) I'm not aware of other causes, beyond what you already read, but I'll be watching this thread to learn.

While it is good to inspect the pan, when doing oil changes myself I use a top-side extractor (Pella) to avoid dealing with plug threading. You could check out installing a Fumoto valve as an alternative to your plug.

[TDIaholic]

Are you loosing coolant? If not, I would not worry about it. At 37k km the PCV is also very unlikely to have failed, and you can easily detect a failed PCV from a whistling sound and fault codes.

As for oil catch cans, I would not get one. If you do get one, get one that retains the factory breather setup and just directs it through the catch can and back to the engine. Some of the "pcv delete kits" out there are designed incorrectly, removing part of the breather system and can cause problems with oil seals, etc.

[b6Hate4]

My 034 motorsport catch can works beautifully... Maybe I'm lucky. The oil its sending into the intake was going to be there anyways, you're just catching an amount of it. I dump quite a bit of nasty sludge out of mine every time I service it. About 10oz worth.

[doublespeeded]

My 034 motorsport catch can works beautifully... Maybe I'm lucky. The oil its sending into the intake was going to be there anyways, you're just catching an amount of it. I dump quite a bit of nasty sludge out of mine every time I service it. About 10oz worth.

yes I was thinking of getting an 034 catchcan, so the 10z per oil change, is that on a stock motor on 91 octane?

Are you loosing coolant? If not, I would not worry about it. At 37k km the PCV is also very unlikely to have failed, and you can easily detect a failed PCV from a whistling sound and fault codes.

As for oil catch cans, I would not get one. If you do get one, get one that retains the factory breather setup and just directs it through the catch can and back to the engine. Some of the "pcv delete kits" out there are designed incorrectly, removing part of the breather system and can cause problems with oil seals, etc.

Nah, no coolant loss as far as a I can see and the water doesn't have any light oily residue that is usually present for blown headgaskets.

How many km/Mi does it take for the PCV valve to commonly fail?

[doublespeeded]

1) There should be an open recall (17F9) for the Crankcase Pressure Regulating Valve for 2011-2014 models. The bladder inside can tear, throw a code, and have rough idle as a symptom.

2) I'd be hesitant to out-think Audi engineers, but others here will likely have well-reasoned opinions.

3) I'm not aware of other causes, beyond what you already read, but I'll be watching this thread to learn.

While it is good to inspect the pan, when doing oil changes myself I use a top-side extractor (Pella) to avoid dealing with plug threading. You could check out installing a Fumoto valve as an alternative to your plug.

Do you have the link handy for the recall?

Also, the Fumoto valve works well? doesn't impede or obstruct anything, Do you also have a link to one for the B8?


cheers

[S4'ed]

Either too many short trips, where the engine is not hot enough, for long enough, to clear the normal moisture byproducts of combustion, out of the crankcase.
OR
You have an engine coolant leak into the lubrication system or oil-pan.
OR
Your PCV system is not working properly.

As a proactive move, you should replace your PCV unit with the latest design revision, as there have been some improvements to make the PCV unit more durable. Some failure modes of PCV unit can cause the rear main crankshaft seal to fail, causing a $$$ repair (the transmission must be removed to change the rear seal.) Be aware that some sellers do not have the latest revision part...best bet is to buy it from a VAG dealer (and overpay a little).

[doublespeeded]

Either too many short trips, where the engine is not hot enough, for long enough, to clear the normal moisture byproducts of combustion, out of the crankcase.
OR
You have an engine coolant leak into the lubrication system or oil-pan.
OR
Your PCV system is not working properly.

As a proactive move, you should replace your PCV unit with the latest design revision, as there have been some improvements to make the PCV unit more durable. Some failure modes of PCV unit can cause the rear main crankshaft seal to fail, causing a $$$ repair (the transmission must be removed to change the rear seal.) Be aware that some sellers do not have the latest revision part...best bet is to buy it from a VAG dealer (and overpay a little).

Thanks, that ws the answer I was looking for.

however, Im fairly new to Audis and Euros... do you have a direct link for the revised PCV?
I did a search and found it quite confusing.

Some doesn't state if its revised, some say it fits up to 2012' ... some are kits etc etc.

if you can assist me, that would be great.

[b6Hate4]

yes I was thinking of getting an 034 catchcan, so the 10z per oil change, is that on a stock motor on 91 octane?




Nah, no coolant loss as far as a I can see and the water doesn't have any light oily residue that is usually present for blown headgaskets.

How many km/Mi does it take for the PCV valve to commonly fail?

No sir. Stage 2 motor, full bolt ons except ko4, with 93.

[8T_BoCO]

@doublespeed, you can enter your VIN here and the required recall (in this instance a 'Service Campaign') should appear:

http://web.audiusa.com/recall/

I've not used a Fumoto myself (I leave the bolt in place and extract oil from the top). ECS sells them. Perhaps they could tell you how happy their customers are with them on B8s:
https://www.ecstuning.com/News/VW_Au...l_Drain_Valve/


Below is the 'up to 2012, B8' part, as part of the whole assembly. Only the round cap seems to need replacing (it has a circular bladder underneath, where the tear/failure occurs), but I don't see that. Maybe your Audi dealer has it.
https://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B8_A4....0T/ES2707418/

[S4'ed]

Audi dealers don't sell the improved diaphragm as a separate part. There are other design improvements in the latest rev of the whole assembly (other than the more durable diaphragm), like an improved one-way check valve, that keeps turbo boost pressure out of the crankcase.

[8T_BoCO]

Thanks S4'ed for the correction.

[doublespeeded]

@doublespeed, you can enter your VIN here and the required recall (in this instance a 'Service Campaign') should appear:

http://web.audiusa.com/recall/

I've not used a Fumoto myself (I leave the bolt in place and extract oil from the top). ECS sells them. Perhaps they could tell you how happy their customers are with them on B8s:
https://www.ecstuning.com/News/VW_Au...l_Drain_Valve/


Below is the 'up to 2012, B8' part, as part of the whole assembly. Only the round cap seems to need replacing (it has a circular bladder underneath, where the tear/failure occurs), but I don't see that. Maybe your Audi dealer has it.
https://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B8_A4....0T/ES2707418/

I tried the recall website previously and again just then, it doesn't recognise my VIN number.

Yes im now interested in this Fumoto drain valve. It will save me buying an oil retriever.


Ok im still a little confused with he PCV part. The one you included does say up to 2012' (which is what my car is; a 2012' built/with a 2013' Facelift/ CDNC 2.0T) at the bottom of the part/ECS page, it says the part will ONLY Fit TSI motors... but mine has TFSI emblem on the engine cover?
(this is why I meant in my other post that my A4 model can be a bit confusing.)

could you shed some light with this?

Cheers.

[doublespeeded]

Audi dealers don't sell the improved diaphragm as a separate part. There are other design improvements in the latest rev of the whole assembly (other than the more durable diaphragm), like an improved one-way check valve, that keeps turbo boost pressure out of the crankcase.

As in a complete PCV part supplied to replace the old?

Do you have the link?

cheers

[8T_BoCO]

Is there a reason not to have your dealer just do the work (since there is no charge)?

I agree that the ECS description is confusing re: TSI vs TFSI. Sorry.
If in doubt about the part, I'd call my Audi dealer and ask, when doing the 17F9 emissions service action for your VIN, what part # will be used.

[doublespeeded]

Is there a reason not to have your dealer just do the work (since there is no charge)?

I agree that the ECS description is confusing re: TSI vs TFSI. Sorry.
If in doubt about the part, I'd call my Audi dealer and ask, when doing the 17F9 emissions service action for your VIN, what part # will be used.

Hey champ,

I guess I can ask, but in Aus, it seems the mentality is that if you don't buy from us... we wont bother to try and help you. ( I recall someone saying that to me once too)

That's why I figured if you had the actual part ready on say, the ECS page, I will just purchase it direct (do ECS sell one for the CDNC TFSI CDNC 2.0T?). Im also not worried about purchasing internationally than local dealers.

Thanks again