No heat after T-Stat replacement

[ecjr173]

So just finished up replacing the thermostat, topped off the coolant and now have no heat. Any ideas.


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[jjvwg]

most likely have an air bubble. bleed it and see if it gets your heat back.

[ecjr173]

How do I bleed it.


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[jjvwg]

easiest way is to use the plug on the metal water pipe, but some people will do it where the rubber hoses meet the metal hoses going to the heater core. From my experience the 1.8 is basically self bleeding though. fill with coolant, run car at idle with heat on high and fan on low and let it get to temperature. this should usually end with the reservoir dropping some. Ill then refill it and lift the expansion tank into the air as high as i can get the back end and squeeze the coolant lines from the radiator a little bit. Then just drive the car and it will usually work out any of the rest. refill until coolant level drops.

This really depends on how much coolant you drain though and from where, as different services will drain different amounts of coolant depending on different locations on the block (water pump, t-stat, turbo drain line, etc.). so sometimes it is required to bleed it from the above mentioned locations to get big air bubbles out.

[jacobsen]

You absolutely need to bleed both the bleed screw on the top of the hard pipe above the intake manifold and the top heater core hose as well. The top heater core hose has a small hole in it. It will require some work and patience to remove period always bleed the system with the expansion tank mounted as high as possible and as full as possible with the engine cold. Use a turkey baster or some method to remove excess coolant from the expansion tank. Once an air bubble has entered the system which will be any time the system has been opened... It can take about a week of occasional bleeding with the motor cold before you get all the air out. When your bleeding the system leave the cap off the expansion tank so there's no vacuum and the coolant can freely fall into the system. When the air stops coming out reseal the connection. Drive for a while and next time the motor is cold do it again and again until nothing more comes out.

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[diagnosticator]

Allow at least 1 hour for the system to fill completely from the open expansion tank. Top up as needed. When the coolant level in the tank stops falling, after 1 hour, replace the tank cap and drive the car. After the system heats up, park the car and allow the system to cool down all the way then top up again as needed. Air is trapped in the cooling system if refill is rushed.

It has been my consistent experience that if enough time is allowed for the cooling system to fill naturally from the open tank, no bleeding is needed because there will be no air trapped in the cooling system. The bleeder screw in the upper coolant pipe can be loosened while the system fills. When the system is full, coolant will dribble out of the loose bleeder screw.

[BARRY]

bleed as described above...hopefully your heater core isn't clogged. my black b6 after thermostat and pump change eventually clogged up the heater core. i guess the increased flow pushed more gunk into the heater.

[Mr.Avant]

There is a bleed hole in one of the heater core hoses behind the false firewall. The hose clearly has a hole in the top of it. Loosen the clamp and slowly pull the hose back until the holes in the hard pipe and hose align, do this while the car is warm to purge air locks from the heater core.

I was forced to do this after my timing belt/water pump job (no heat in the cabin) and have had no problems with the heater core since.

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