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  1. #1
    Veteran Member Four Rings canadianA4B7's Avatar
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    Power steering help please

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    So I've got some messed up shit going on. I've blown steering hose from the rack to cooler off 2x. So used some industrial hose clamps fixed that. Next trip out the hose split. I'm assuming I've got an obstruction perhaps. I've cleared cooler, I've cleared hose from pump to the bottle under the hood. Haven't cleared the hose to the rack. But how does this thing build enough pressure to blow a hole in the hose?? Is the diy on the b6 for flushing good for our car??

    Pick up car front end add fluid turn wheel left to right full turns to draw it to rack, start for 30 seconds to see if pump sucks bottle dry and repeat. Seems so simple. But for some reason I get wonderful sprinkler effect blowing hoses off of apart and the super cheap (lmfao) power steering fluid everywhere.

    I've reached out to a few members parting cars for some stuff but hope I'm missing something.



  2. #2
    Veteran Member Four Rings canadianA4B7's Avatar
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    Best way to fill steering

    Lift front of car fill the tank. Turn wheels left to right back and Fort 2 cycles each way. This will nearly drain the tank now refill, some should bubble through quickly at this point. Repeat a few more times make sure to top up or have anoth add fluid. I'm trying to find exact spec from Audi for fill amount but I'm currently 750 mL (approx) in the system.

    I also cranked over engine with Ecu and fuel pump fuses removed, this drained fluids into the system be sure to watch while doing This to not cause air lock.

    Next I ran the car with the tank cap off. this was likely the best way to release all the air as I cud see a few bubble pop and splash the fluid a bit in the tank.

    Tomorrow I will test drive. Hopes that my last 2 attempts were just mere failures on my part.

    Hope this can help in the future

  3. #3
    Veteran Member Four Rings pezgoon's Avatar
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    Jul 25 2016
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    I hope the info I sent you helped! Although the FSM says not to run the car, I agree that pulling the fuses and cranking is probably more helpful then trying to get gravity to do the work
    Eric

    2005.5 6mt A4 2.0 94k miles
    2010 Q5 3.2L 6at 160k miles

  4. #4
    Veteran Member Four Rings aluthman's Avatar
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    Mar 24 2013
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    What power steering fluid are you using? Audi requires a specific type of mineral hydraulic oil. CHF-11s and CHF-202 are the approved types IIRC.
    -Adam

    '07 DTM A4 2.0T|6MT|EFR 7163 Twin Scroll|DoTuning|Built Motor|Meth and other go fast stuff…
    '06 A4 2.0T Quattro - RIP (Best ¼ mile pass 13.634 @ 103.30)

  5. #5
    Veteran Member Four Rings canadianA4B7's Avatar
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    It's an oem fluid that is mineral based I believe it has both of those markings on the bottle. Slight greenish color to it which iirc was similar to what was in it originally.

    Will double check in the day time after work tomorrow.

    Pezgoon info helped huge. After reading through and talking w some others it's believed to have been an air lock that was likely in the highest part of the system. After filling and turning the wheels it was quickly drained into the system. I'm not sure how you wud completely remove all air without running the car for a little bit. With the cap off you can see the fluid pumping Into the tank from the pump. Which also confirms the direction of flow.

    From tank through cooler, to the rack from rack to pump then pump returns to the tank. (I cud be wrong this is just how it looks from my eyes)

    Tomorrow I will test my findings and report back.

  6. #6
    Veteran Member Four Rings pezgoon's Avatar
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    It should be starting at the pump if I'm not mistake since the pump needs to pressurize the system, I'll look at mine this morning and make sure you have your path of flow correct

    It would say only one of the numbers on the bottle, the 202 is the newer revision (I know cause I had to buy some)

    And that makes sense about having to turn it, the Volvo I just had I had to replace the entire steering system and it required you to turn with the tires on the ground to do it, autozones website diy thing said to do it with the wheels off the ground so I true that method first since it was in the air already and it burned out the pump (that I just put in!) bearings as it didn't suck any fluid in, put it on the ground and it immediately did after turning, so it actually needed the resistance to push the air out. I was expecting something similar from Audi but I guess not

    I'm glad it helped!
    Eric

    2005.5 6mt A4 2.0 94k miles
    2010 Q5 3.2L 6at 160k miles

  7. #7
    Veteran Member Four Rings canadianA4B7's Avatar
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    Thanks! And it helped. I think it should be fine at this point I'd like to drive but crammed city parking in torontos got my neighbour cornered me and I now cannot get the car to the road for the 3rd attempt at an actual drive.

    The fluid I have claims compatible with both numbers CHF 202 and CHF11S or CHF 7.1, so I'm guessing it's half decent stuff. Maybe a trip to dealer if this stuff isn't what I need. But we shall see hopefully soon.

  8. #8
    Veteran Member Four Rings canadianA4B7's Avatar
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    After replacing lines, getting car running after the first 50 km lots of stop and go turns the pumps decided to be a new failure point. And I'm sure shortly after that the rack or somewhere else will become the new point of failure.

  9. #9
    Veteran Member Four Rings pezgoon's Avatar
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    Have those bits already been replaced?
    Eric

    2005.5 6mt A4 2.0 94k miles
    2010 Q5 3.2L 6at 160k miles

  10. #10
    Veteran Member Four Rings canadianA4B7's Avatar
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    No pump and rack are original oem units that came on the car.

  11. #11
    Veteran Member Four Rings canadianA4B7's Avatar
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    Ordered rack carsteering.com. $375+150 core plus shipping. So cost me about $500 cdn. Local dealer charging $1930 cdn for the same thing.

  12. #12
    Veteran Member Four Rings canadianA4B7's Avatar
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    I'm going to replace both rack and pump this week and repost in thread.

    Also any racing teams in here or guys who race. Is there a way to put in a bypass w a pressure release valve?? Between the line from tank to the line to the rack? Not sure where but I read some teams use a valve between rack and pump, if the valve (set to a few psi higher then actual pressure) it opens bleeding back to the tank. I'm sure I'm not correct on this but I'm interested in fixing the steering or at least giving enthusiast an alternative option to replace the rack.

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