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  1. #1
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    Major Oil Leak - [VIDEO] 2002 b6 A4 1.8t

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    Whats up Audizine members, long time fan of the forum late joiner. I didnt feel it was right joining until I got myself an Audi.

    The problems have already begun.

    So today I was driving like normal, accelerating in first gear, shifted into 2nd gear when i noticed smoke coming from behind my car. Pulled over immediately.

    Turns out OIL was leaking BAD onto the exhaust causing it to smoke so I started looking for a leak. Found a possible culprit almost immediately.

    I've posted a video of what I think caused the leak. It's the gold bolt located at the rear of the engine. When i pressed the gold bolt inwards it moved in but slide back out.

    Im having trouble identifying what exactly this "bolt" is but I hope if I can fix that, my oil leak will be fixed as well.

    any help will be appreciated and hopefully we can move on. I'd prefer posting nice shots of the car and not oil leaks lol.

    Thanks again guys!


  2. #2
    Veteran Member Four Rings old guy's Avatar
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    Dec 28 2006
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    '13 A5, '24 Tiguan SEL R-Line
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    Western Maryland

    That is part of your cam chain adjuster. (AKA: CCT or cam chain tensioner.) That gold piece is pressed into the adjuster. It should not come out. You need to replace the CCT immediately.

    A few pointers and a link to a DIY in this thread: Clicky clickŪ

    This gives you a better view. It's silver in the picture. As you can see it is crimped in place.

    Last edited by old guy; 08-15-2016 at 03:15 AM.
    '03 A4 5-MT Motoza tuned Frankenturbo F21L With full supporting mods. Sold (and missed dearly).
    '13 A5 6-MT Needs more Fun Stuff: Neuspeed PM / 3.0 TDI Intercooler / H&R OE Sport Springs / Bilstein B8 Shocks / TyrolSport Brake Stiffeners / ECS Short Shifter / S5 Side Skirts / RS Grille

  3. #3
    Veteran Member Four Rings egovreau's Avatar
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    Sep 08 2015
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    My Garage
    2017 Audi Q5, 1989 Jaguar XJS, 2005 Ford F-250, 2002 VW Passat Wagon
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    Orting, WA

    A little hard to tell from the video, but there does appear to be a large amount of oil in the vicinity of the cam chain tensioner. It has its own gasket which might need to be changed. The oil on the exhaust is also a good indicator. The other likely culprit is the valve cover gasket. If they get brittle enough, they can crack.

    Lastly, a check of the crankcase breather lines and hoses is in order. Clogged lines can cause a leak in the valve cover gasket.



    Sent from the 7th Galaxy.

  4. #4
    Veteran Member Four Rings egovreau's Avatar
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    Sep 08 2015
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    My Garage
    2017 Audi Q5, 1989 Jaguar XJS, 2005 Ford F-250, 2002 VW Passat Wagon
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    Orting, WA

    Quote Originally Posted by old guy View Post
    That is part of your cam chain adjuster. (AKA: CCT or cam chain tensioner.) That gold piece is pressed into the adjuster. It should not come out. You need to replace the CCT immediately.

    A few pointers and a link to a DIY in this thread: Clicky clickŪ
    Yeah... Go with that.

    Sent from the 7th Galaxy.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by old guy View Post
    That is part of your cam chain adjuster. (AKA: CCT or cam chain tensioner.) That gold piece is pressed into the adjuster. It should not come out. You need to replace the CCT immediately.

    A few pointers and a link to a DIY in this thread: Clicky clickŪ

    This gives you a better view. It's silver in the picture. As you can see it is crimped in place.


    Thanks for the prompt reply. Been quoted about $500 CDN for labour, found a kit on ecs tuning for about $260.

    Just replaced the clutch recently now I have to spend another 1000 to get it running again.

    Learned my lesson the hard way. Im assuming there is no temp fix to get it to the shop?

    I was also wondering, what caused this to happen in the first place?

  6. #6
    Veteran Member Four Rings old guy's Avatar
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    Dec 28 2006
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    '13 A5, '24 Tiguan SEL R-Line
    Location
    Western Maryland

    Take a close look at the picture above. You can see the marks where the cylinder is crimped into the housing body. You could try pushing the cylinder in and using a center punch to crimp it in place. I suspect it is an after-market CCT that failed on you.
    '03 A4 5-MT Motoza tuned Frankenturbo F21L With full supporting mods. Sold (and missed dearly).
    '13 A5 6-MT Needs more Fun Stuff: Neuspeed PM / 3.0 TDI Intercooler / H&R OE Sport Springs / Bilstein B8 Shocks / TyrolSport Brake Stiffeners / ECS Short Shifter / S5 Side Skirts / RS Grille

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by old guy View Post
    Take a close look at the picture above. You can see the marks where the cylinder is crimped into the housing body. You could try pushing the cylinder in and using a center punch to crimp it in place. I suspect it is an after-market CCT that failed on you.
    Okay I will give that a shot and see if it holds up. So assuming the oil is leaking from the cylinder if I can crimp in into place there shouldnt be a big oil leak?

    The previous owner did mention that he "replaced" the cam chain tensioner so your suspicion about it being an aftermarket cct sounds about right. your knowledge about this stuff is insane.

    I have never done a job like CCT replacement but i'm contemplating trying it because i mean the car doesnt run anyway so whats the worst that can happen.. right?

  8. #8
    Veteran Member Four Rings old guy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 28 2006
    AZ Member #
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    My Garage
    '13 A5, '24 Tiguan SEL R-Line
    Location
    Western Maryland

    If you can push the cylinder in and use a center punch to crimp it in place it should minimize the oil leak and allow you to get it to a garage for replacement.

    If you are reasonably handy and have a few tools there is no reason why you can't replace it yourself. On a scale of 1 to 10 I would put it at a 3 or 4. For reference a clutch replacement would be a 7 or 8.

    The biggest issue for a first timer is always trying to get 16 links between the cam cap pointers. Audi should have never put the pointers on the cam caps. They don't mean s*#t. What matters is that you get 16 links between the cam notches. Once you figure that out it's easy. Read through my linked thread and the DIY in the thread. Feel free to contact me if you have any questions.

    Good luck!
    '03 A4 5-MT Motoza tuned Frankenturbo F21L With full supporting mods. Sold (and missed dearly).
    '13 A5 6-MT Needs more Fun Stuff: Neuspeed PM / 3.0 TDI Intercooler / H&R OE Sport Springs / Bilstein B8 Shocks / TyrolSport Brake Stiffeners / ECS Short Shifter / S5 Side Skirts / RS Grille

  9. #9
    Active Member One Ring
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    Quote Originally Posted by old guy View Post
    If you can push the cylinder in and use a center punch to crimp it in place it should minimize the oil leak and allow you to get it to a garage for replacement.

    If you are reasonably handy and have a few tools there is no reason why you can't replace it yourself. On a scale of 1 to 10 I would put it at a 3 or 4. For reference a clutch replacement would be a 7 or 8.

    The biggest issue for a first timer is always trying to get 16 links between the cam cap pointers. Audi should have never put the pointers on the cam caps. They don't mean s*#t. What matters is that you get 16 links between the cam notches. Once you figure that out it's easy. Read through my linked thread and the DIY in the thread. Feel free to contact me if you have any questions.

    Good luck!
    Thanks again for all the words of wisdom, I've decided to take it to a garage. I don't think I can pull this off on the side of the road (my condo doesnt allow for these repairs in the garage and the concierge walks around every 30mins). I watched and read many DIY's and realized like you said, its not that bad but for time sake I will have to fall into the hands of a shop. I was able to get right to the problem though which helped weed out the shaky mechanics.

    Hopefully we can get some nice car shots soon for the forum!

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