Please provide me with a bit of assistance with things relating to oil changes.

[doublespeeded]

Hi guys,

Earlier today, it was the first time I had carried out an oil change on my used, 2012 Facelift Audi A4 2.0 Quattro.

During the procedure I noticed a couple of things; 1.) the oil drain plug did not appear to be OEM. ( I didn't take any pictures) It did not have any brand label, but it is a Anodized Blue colour and 14mm hex bolt with a magnet on the tip. (I recall seeing videos that its either a Allen or Torx head plug).
Not that it bothers me with aftermarket parts, these magnetic plugs are probably a good idea being magnetic and having a standard head. (I had purchased one in the past for my Mitsubishi Evolution IX made by the company GReddy and seems to be working well)

2.) Once I completed the work, a few hours later, I also noticed when I put my hand down the gap of engine bay, touching the bolt, I felt some oil on the belly side of the pan, near the drain plug.
I assume the oil is from the plug and would generally happens if you don't replace the metal washer? This plug being aftermarket, Im not sure if the washer is replaceable or if I need to buy a whole new plug?

It be great if someone can provide me with the following details:

1.) generally what is the torque specs of a drain bolt for Audis?

2.) what is the part number for a OEM genuine drain bolt and/or washer?

3.) What brands offer aftermarket magnetic drain bolts?

4.) is it normal for sump plugs to have even the slightest of a drip of oil or is it suppose to be completely sealed and dry as a bone at all times?

Thanks a bunch guys.

[The Infiltrator]

You seem to not search on here, just ask and let people feed you. I'm done feeding, this took me literally five minutes of searching. Oh, and 2012 is pre facelift, not facelift.

Plug and washer:
https://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B8_A4...Plug/ES513369/
https://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B8_A4...il_Drain_Plug/

DIY Link: e. Using torque wrench and 18mm socket, tighten drain plug to 30nm (aprox 22lbft)
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...Oil-Change-DIY

[MrTylerRaines]

Hi guys,

Earlier today, it was the first time I had carried out an oil change on my used, 2012 Facelift Audi A4 2.0 Quattro.

During the procedure I noticed a couple of things; 1.) the oil drain plug did not appear to be OEM. ( I didn't take any pictures) It did not have any brand label, but it is a Anodized Blue colour and 14mm hex bolt with a magnet on the tip. (I recall seeing videos that its either a Allen or Torx head plug).
Not that it bothers me with aftermarket parts, these magnetic plugs are probably a good idea being magnetic and having a standard head. (I had purchased one in the past for my Mitsubishi Evolution IX made by the company GReddy and seems to be working well)

2.) Once I completed the work, a few hours later, I also noticed when I put my hand down the gap of engine bay, touching the bolt, I felt some oil on the belly side of the pan, near the drain plug.
I assume the oil is from the plug and would generally happens if you don't replace the metal washer? This plug being aftermarket, Im not sure if the washer is replaceable or if I need to buy a whole new plug?

It be great if someone can provide me with the following details:

1.) generally what is the torque specs of a drain bolt for Audis?

2.) what is the part number for a OEM genuine drain bolt and/or washer?

3.) What brands offer aftermarket magnetic drain bolts?

4.) is it normal for sump plugs to have even the slightest of a drip of oil or is it suppose to be completely sealed and dry as a bone at all times?

Thanks a bunch guys.

Yea u will leak garanteed without the (crush washer)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[van462]

If its anodized it also means its aluminum. Be cautious using a torque spec for a bolt designed with a different material.

[doublespeeded]

You seem to not search on here, just ask and let people feed you. I'm done feeding, this took me literally five minutes of searching. Oh, and 2012 is pre facelift, not facelift.

Plug and washer:
https://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B8_A4...Plug/ES513369/
https://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B8_A4...il_Drain_Plug/

DIY Link: e. Using torque wrench and 18mm socket, tighten drain plug to 30nm (aprox 22lbft)
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...Oil-Change-DIY

Heya,
Firstly, I must say that I appreciate the 5 minutes you had spent for me. In your opinion... fed me.

Jokes aside and believe it or not, I do search on forums + google. However, My thoughts was clouded when I was angry with the leaking oil after the change, so honestly, it did not occur to me at the time to patiently research. So Im sorry that this has offended and/or annoyed you.

with regards to 2012 or 2013 facelift, I think I would know my vehicle model.
Im not sure what was available in the USA. But in the Australian market, the facelift was first introduced in late 2012' (my vehicle Built/stamped Sept' 2012'). The only difference with 2013' models was that the 2012' (facelift) versions still retained the CDNC 155kw 2.0T motor. Which is the infamous oil guzzling engine, where as the 2013' facelift models was equipped with the CNC 165kw 2.0T.
The reason I emphasize that it is a 2012' facelift, is because Audi apparently rectified the oil consumption issue by 2012'... they reckon some of the B8.0 were affected but some aren't and by the time the facelift B8.5 was launched, all these models was trouble free regarding that issue. So just incase there is something different about my particular model and engine.

Yea u will leak garanteed without the (crush washer)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If its anodized it also means its aluminum. Be cautious using a torque spec for a bolt designed with a different material.

Thanks guys, I jacked the car back up and had a few more goes at it.

From what I saw, the blue anodized plug looks like the AROSPEED blue one from ECSTUNING. The problem turned out to be the washer that was supplied with this plug, it just didn't want to seal.
its a bit too thin in circumference and too wide with the hole the centre... I unscrewed and screwed ON about 4 times (all with 30NM) and all the times ive tried, there was a very slow oil seepage (say one bead of oil in 30 mins - 1hr). As I was about to give up on the 5th go, it somehow sealed.
Ive checked a few times after operating temp and it seems ok.

Ill probably look for another washer on the next oil change. Im also glad the oil pan is steel and not aluminium (Aluminum as its called in US :)

[Fastbke170]

Your best bet IMO is to Put a Stock Oil Drain plug with New Crush Washer. Purchase an Oil Extractor Like a Mityvac MV7201, You use the supplied 1/4 Tube and slide it down through dipstick. Your Oil Change will be alot quicker and No Mess.

[FastMoneyPlaya]

Your best bet IMO is to Put a Stock Oil Drain plug with New Crush Washer. Purchase an Oil Extractor Like a Mityvac MV7201, You use the supplied 1/4 Tube and slide it down through dipstick. Your Oil Change will be alot quicker and No Mess.

I just bought these washers from Amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ... They should fit according to the Q and A: Question: is it M14x1.25
Answer: Washers don't have threads. It's M14 (14mm inside diameter). Any M14 bolt can go through it.

I also picked up the OEM filter on Amazon - nice thing about Prime is free 2 day shipping https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And an oil filter wrench too https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1


This will be my first attempt. The last time I brought the car to the dealer, it was over $200 for basically an oil change, a cabin filter replacement, and topping off the windshield washer... Also got a free car wash and a loaner!

[doublespeeded]

You seem to not search on here, just ask and let people feed you. I'm done feeding, this took me literally five minutes of searching. Oh, and 2012 is pre facelift, not facelift.

Plug and washer:
https://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B8_A4...Plug/ES513369/
https://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-B8_A4...il_Drain_Plug/

DIY Link: e. Using torque wrench and 18mm socket, tighten drain plug to 30nm (aprox 22lbft)
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...Oil-Change-DIY

Yea u will leak garanteed without the (crush washer)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If its anodized it also means its aluminum. Be cautious using a torque spec for a bolt designed with a different material.

Your best bet IMO is to Put a Stock Oil Drain plug with New Crush Washer. Purchase an Oil Extractor Like a Mityvac MV7201, You use the supplied 1/4 Tube and slide it down through dipstick. Your Oil Change will be alot quicker and No Mess.

I just bought these washers from Amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ... They should fit according to the Q and A: Question: is it M14x1.25
Answer: Washers don't have threads. It's M14 (14mm inside diameter). Any M14 bolt can go through it.

I also picked up the OEM filter on Amazon - nice thing about Prime is free 2 day shipping https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And an oil filter wrench too https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1


This will be my first attempt. The last time I brought the car to the dealer, it was over $200 for basically an oil change, a cabin filter replacement, and topping off the windshield washer... Also got a free car wash and a loaner!

Thanks for your suggestions.

I don't think I change oil enough to own or purchase a oil extractor.
It doesn't look like a good idea using them.

This is my firsts attempt and definitely wont be my last, just hope its a more enjoyable experience next time without leaks.