Passenger side wastegate not returning

[vavJETTAw36]

Hey guys,

Long story short I have been having some on and off issues regarding my fuel trims.

Found boost leaks and fixed them, however, everytime I pressure test the car, the car loses all boost. To "get my boost back", I have to do a quick 1st gear/2nd gear run and it comes back. I have been able to recreate this issue everytime I have pressure tested the car.

Today I checked my wastegates for cracking pressure. Both start to move around between 6-7psi and stop between 11-12psi. From what I have gathered on the K04, this is normal. But what I noticed is that my passenger side is very lazy. It doesnt want to return to close. It basically returns to where it starts to open again at 9-10 psi. I have a sneaky suspicion this is exactly what has been happening and could attribute to a rich condition.

What exactly do I need to do? Can I get away with adjusting (adjusting preload) or is the WG just worn out? They are only about 15K miles btw.


Thanks for looking,

Shawn

(Stage 3 K04)

[getslideways]

What brand of K04s? OEM BorgWarner? Did you ever graph actual vs desired/requested boost to see if you were lagging? If the car is running do they snap shut (due to vacuum that is not present with the car off)? I wouldnt think the car would run rich as the MAF still is able to read how much air is coming in. If the boost pressure is lower, the MAF will see less air being drawn in (I started drinking early today so I might be thinking about this wrong lol).

Maybe a trip to home depot is in your future lol




or 8 trips:

[vavJETTAw36]

What brand of K04s? OEM BorgWarner? Did you ever graph actual vs desired/requested boost to see if you were lagging? If the car is running do they snap shut (due to vacuum that is not present with the car off)? I wouldnt think the car would run rich as the MAF still is able to read how much air is coming in. If the boost pressure is lower, the MAF will see less air being drawn in (I started drinking early today so I might be thinking about this wrong lol).

Maybe a trip to home depot is in your future lol




or 8 trips:

That is actually a good point I didn't think about the MAF compensating for the actual amount of air coming through.

K04s are RP's. Wish they were BW

Every log that I take the requested is always lower than actual in low rpm until the requested jumps up during WOT. From a log standpoint and boost standpoint, the car is fine and boosts 26psi. I need to dial that down a little though but that is neither here nor there.

It does snap back but I assume it's after I run it hard through 1st and 2nd(after a pressure test). Doesn't seem to be an issue outside of pressure testing. Is the WG signal line supposed to switch to vacuum to suck the WG diaphragm back? I thought it was spring loaded.

My fuel trims seem to be fine (-6%) until I turn on the AC. If i am cruising in 3rd 3000rpm I can watch it raise.

I'm liking that spring idea. WG access looks pretty tight. Is this a from under or from above or both kind of job?

Thanks


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[FlyboyS4]

I installed some helper springs on a previous turbo setup while they were on the car. It took a while due to the limited access, but I got good results from them.

[vavJETTAw36]

Where did you get your helper springs?


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[zillarob]

Check the angle of the lever, it should be vertical and pointing straight down.

I had a buddy get 40k hard miles out a set of rp's. Took quite a bit of tlc, but they were runners while they ran

Right off the bat the dside wastegate went bad. He replaced.

Next time it was only making 10psi. Looked at the lever and could see the can was pulling it way further fwd than it should be able to.
Whacked the dp with my fist and could hear something rattling by the 2nd cat (piggies)



I patched this one up pretty easily.

Round 3 was was the killer. The wg lever setup that goes through the hot housing is 3 piece instead of 2 like bw or ft.
The inner lever that holds the door had rotated on the shaft and I couldnt get it to spin back.
By this time I think all the issues on the dside had put the whoopin on the pside and it was starting to puff a little so went f21.

[vavJETTAw36]

Check the angle of the lever, it should be vertical and pointing straight down.

I had a buddy get 40k hard miles out a set of rp's. Took quite a bit of tlc, but they were runners while they ran

Right off the bat the dside wastegate went bad. He replaced.

Next time it was only making 10psi. Looked at the lever and could see the can was pulling it way further fwd than it should be able to.
Whacked the dp with my fist and could hear something rattling by the 2nd cat (piggies)



I patched this one up pretty easily.

Round 3 was was the killer. The wg lever setup that goes through the hot housing is 3 piece instead of 2 like bw or ft.
The inner lever that holds the door had rotated on the shaft and I couldnt get it to spin back.
By this time I think all the issues on the dside had put the whoopin on the pside and it was starting to puff a little so went f21.

Thanks rob. Sounds like a nightmare! Not looking forward to any of those issues lol. How did you patch the door? Reweld? If they ever go I'll probably switch to BW or f21.

I'll make and post up a little video of the actuator/lever. Would an unclosed WG cause rich conditions? Or does the MAF have control over this?




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[FlyboyS4]

Where did you get your helper springs?

McMaster-Carr. I tried a few before I found a set that had a length and spring rate that I wanted.

[zillarob]

Got a stainless bolt that fit through the door and the lever.
Cut a slot lengthwise in the end of the bolt. Basically split on the threaded end a bit just outside where the nut would sit.
Poked it through the door and gave it a small weld to hold it while I put it in.
Worked the lever open and slipped it in the turbo.
Put a stainless nut on.
Used a chisel to spread the forked end of the bolt out so the nut stayed put.

Had to lock it on like this because the only locknuts I could find were nylocks and pretty sure they wouldnt like the heat in there.


I dont think the gate staying open would cause too much of a rich condition, that is usually a boost leak to atmosphere.
ME7 is pretty smart though and might depend on how it was tuned. It could have some preemptive fueling or egts adding fuel?

[vavJETTAw36]

Got a stainless bolt that fit through the door and the lever.
Cut a slot lengthwise in the end of the bolt. Basically split on the threaded end a bit just outside where the nut would sit.
Poked it through the door and gave it a small weld to hold it while I put it in.
Worked the lever open and slipped it in the turbo.
Put a stainless nut on.
Used a chisel to spread the forked end of the bolt out so the nut stayed put.

Had to lock it on like this because the only locknuts I could find were nylocks and pretty sure they wouldnt like the heat in there.


I dont think the gate staying open would cause too much of a rich condition, that is usually a boost leak to atmosphere.
ME7 is pretty smart though and might depend on how it was tuned. It could have some preemptive fueling or egts adding fuel?

Thats pretty ingenuitive!


Yea it could be the tune. I need to clear the trims and drive it around with the ac on and then drive without the AC on to see if its just preemptive fueling for the extra load the AC causes. The tune I purchased has EGT's/O2s coded out so that should be a non issue. Unfortunately I never really got a good log of before I made changes so its all about assumptions at this point.

I want to make sure I am testing the appropriate way. What I have been doing is clearing codes/trims and then driving 3-5 miles down the street and logging trims. Yesterday 100 degrees I drove to the store with the AC on and it pretty much jumps to ~-15 LTs. But then I cleared codes/trims and drove it home and it stayed at -8 LT. If its the AC causing it then I am not too worried.

Ill just continue to verify the AC theory through logging and if it checks out I am just going to stop worrying about it. I think I will also go ahead and replace all of the old check valves (checked them a couple months ago when all this started and one was bad and I replaced) , spider hose, Pancake valve, and PCV. If that doesnt do anything then well I will just have to live with the tune.

BTW Rob, do any other interesting 3d printing?

[f4m0u5]

Sorry but im no help 😐Good luck with resolving this!

I did however use the helper spring on my passat with A ebay k04 on it(why ill never go cheap cheap again lol) , it helped reyurn the wastegate that was sticking till u funded a bw k04

[vavJETTAw36]

Sorry but im no help Good luck with resolving this!

I did however use the helper spring on my passat with A ebay k04 on it(why ill never go cheap cheap again lol) , it helped reyurn the wastegate that was sticking till u funded a bw k04

Tim thanks for the info. Is the eBay turbo still running? Just curious.


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[f4m0u5]

Tim thanks for the info. Is the eBay turbo still running? Just curious.


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I used it for 1k miles and exactly pne year thill i repaced it with a borgwarner, then sold the borgwarner after a year and the passat to help fund the s4

[getslideways]

What are the individual trim values?

Incase you havent read this:

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Fuel_Trim_Info

...Negative values indicate that the engine is running too rich and oxygen sensor control is therefore making it more lean by reducing the amount of time that the injectors are open. Positive values indicate that the engine is running too lean and oxygen sensor control is therefore making it richer by increasing the amount of time that the injectors are open.

It is totally normal for both the first and second fields to be something other than zero. In fact, zeros IN BOTH FIELDS indicates that either you just cleared codes (which will reset fuel trim values) or something isn't working properly. If values get too far away from zero, it will cause a DTC (fault code) and can set off the MIL (commonly referred to as the Check Engine Light, or CEL). Specifications for normal operation are usually somewhere near +/- 10%.

In general, an out-of-spec value in the first field (Additive) indicates a vacuum leak since it is mostly present at idle, when vacuum is highest. An out-of-spec value in the second field (Multiplicative) indicates a fault at higher RPM, and may point to a faulty MAF....

[vavJETTAw36]

What are the individual trim values?

Incase you havent read this:

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Fuel_Trim_Info

This is definitely helpful info, however, I have a pretty decent working knowledge of trims.

Went for a drive today and had to log using VCDS but final numbers from a 5 mile drive:

My multiplicative LT:
-14, -16

My idle LT's:
+1, +2

They usually start to climb once I am cruising at 2,800 rpm

Heres list of new hardware:
- FPR (4 months ago)
- Fuel Pump 044 (3 months ago)
- Spark Plugs NGK BKRE7 Gapped at .025( less than 100 miles)
- Primary 02's (less than 100 miles)
- MAF (less than 100 miles)
- Catalytic Converters (2000 miles)
- RS6 Coils (3000 Miles)
- Added air straightener and then removed since it didnt make a difference and tune didnt call for it.
- Swapped n249 with check valve from known working car

Hardware Checks:
- Pressure tested, found, and mitigated boost leaks. Pumps to 15 PSI and holds pressure for ~50 seconds. (1 week)
- Found check valve to be leaky, replaced with new one. (3 months ago)
- Checked other check valves while I was there(3 months ago)

[getslideways]

Is this a new problem or has it always been this way? What tune and what MAF housing out of curiosity?

[vavJETTAw36]

Is this a new problem or has it always been this way? What tune and what MAF housing out of curiosity?

Short history:

- Jan: bought k04 car with ASP tune
- Mar: Changed to AWE hardware and tune
- May: Changed to GIAC and hardware
- June: Upgraded to GIAC 93/e85 Extreme

Uses 85mm Hitachi and 550cc injectors

In all of that time, I only checked health with VCDS a couple of times. I remember trims being fine with ASP. but I have changed so much crap since then. It wasnt until May that I started logging with ME7 and my trims were ~-10/-11.

So in other words no, i have really no clue what it was Mar to May. But since that time, i have only added an SSAC 2.5 catted exhaust

[vavJETTAw36]

I do have a stage 1 tune sitting in my other car with stock hardware that I could move over, however, not sure that it would be an apples to apples test. To recreate the issue I just drive around in 3,000 RPM. I know the K03 will start boosting earlier and I know I am supposed to avoid going into boost. Think this could work or is assumption correct that it is not really a comparative test?

[DxC]

the rpturbo flapper arm is easily fixed by taking the piece from an old k03