My car sat for a month now the engine cuts out, stalls.

[DJMurphy]

My car was sitting in the garage for a month while I was on vacation, ran fine before that.

I went to run some errands this morning and the car started fine but went about 25 meters out of my driveway before running rough, bucking and then stalling. I had it out yesterday for the first time and the only issue I noticed was an abrupt and momentary cut out while accelerating hard.

I just did a vagcom scan and this is what I got:

4 Faults Found:
17887 - Brake Boost Vacuum System
P1479 - 008 - Mechanical Failure - Intermittent
16684 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0300 - 008 -
16687 - Cylinder 3
P0303 - 008 - Misfire Detected
16688 - Cylinder 4
P0304 - 008 - Misfire Detected
Readiness: 0000 0000

The car was idling when I did the vagcom and the engine just shut off in the middle of the scan. Starts right up again but won't accept any pedal input when in drive.

I have 190000km on it. Fuel filter and NGK 11mm Iridium plugs and new Red-top coils were done at 150000km

I can hear the fuel pump run when I cycle the ignition switch. Presently at 1/2 tank.

MAF and air filter was replaced 2 months ago with a noticeable improvement in throttle response.

I have the car back in garage and on a battery charger (just in case).

Any flow chart/troubleshooting tips would be appreciated.

Darren

[hightime80]

My bet is a vaccum leak. Lines, check valves maybe even the SJP.

[chad99]

Looks like you might have a vacuum leak at the brake booster, if bad enough it could cause the misfires.

I would visually check the plastic rubber joint right before the vac line goes through the firewall to the brake booster as well as all the other lines, then do a boost leak test if you can't find anything suspect.

[Let it snow]

Was it parked outside? If so check for a mouse nest in your air filter box or other rodent damage.

Edit: Read it was parked inside. Still worth a peek.

[DJMurphy]

After work I'll head to the hardware store to get the items I need to make a boost leak test apparatus. I'll report back.

[customa4]

Suction jet pump

[DJMurphy]

Thanks for the suggestions, the SJP is intact, and I see no obvious breaks or splits in the vacuum system. I replaced the SJP this past January when it split on me.

I just restarted the car, it idles smoothly until I put it in drive then starts to shake and cut out. I picked up the boost tester parts, and I am trying to cobble together a fuel pressure tester I had laying around. The car has run well the last 3 years I have had it, sadly I haven't put much effort into learning any troubleshooting for it's common areas. I'll try to read up more tonight during the Olympics.

[A4alaska]

Have you removed the old gasoline and replaced it with new?

Stabil or Seafoam?

[customa4]

Here's some more info on the first code.

17887/ P1479/005241 - Brake Boost Vacuum System: Mechanical Failure

Possible Causes
Fuse(s) faulty
if the blade wheel (rotor) in the vacuum pump is stuck, most probably a fuse will burn
Hoses from/to Brake Boost Vacuum Pump faulty
Brake Boost Vacuum Pump faulty
the blade wheel (rotor) in the vacuum pump is stuck
Possible Solutions
Check / replace fuses
check if the blade wheel (rotor) of the vacuum pump is stuck, otherwise the fuse will burn again
Check Hoses from/to Brake Boost Vacuum Pump
Check Brake Boost Vacuum Pump
check if blade wheel (rotor) is stuck
Perform Output Test
Perform Short Trip in Basic Settings. Group 008 is commonly the self test for this system and may be activated Key On, Engine Off. If needed activate basic settings using [On/Off/Next] and pump the brake pedal.
Special Notes
When this fault is stored in conjunction with misfire and system lean fault codes check the PCV system and any other possible sources of engine mechanical vacuum leaks. Although PCV failure is most common on the 1.8T engines equipped with the auxiliary vacuum pump, any engine with low vacuum can cause that electric pump to run excessively - resulting in this fault code.

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index...7/P1479/005241

[chad99]

the fact it bogs down when in D till it almost cuts out says to me vac leak, I'm sure the boost leak test will show you what failed.

[DJMurphy]

Well, the boost leak test showed major air leakage at #2 and #3 fuel injectors. I hit everything on the engine with soap solution and there was major bubbles that appear to be coming from the injector o-ring seats. So to me, either the o-rings are failing or the seats themselves are. These are the Ford Motorsports injectors. Does anyone know if perhaps new o-rings can be ordered separately?

BTW, if someone has a good how-to for seat replacement in their favourites I would appreciate the link.

[f0reignfeatures]

Yes, you can order them from ECS. I believe they're a few cents (under a dollar) per o-ring, you'll need two per injector. I've been planning on doing this myself as preventative maintenance.

If you end up needing new injectors check out the classifieds section. I've seen them go for super cheap on here. You may be able to get upgraded ones as well for less than the cost of new. Good luck!


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[DJMurphy]

OK thanks. I just pulled the injectors, #2 & #3 seats have a large vertical crack where the o-ring is supposed to seal. Looks like I'll have to take care of that first and see if that's the actual problem.

[old guy]

OK thanks. I just pulled the injectors, #2 & #3 seats have a large vertical crack where the o-ring is supposed to seal. Looks like I'll have to take care of that first and see if that's the actual problem.

Fixing the injector seat leaks is definately something you should do but I doubt it is going to cure your reported problems. Injector seat leaks aren't going to cause the engine to stall and cut out while driving.

[DJMurphy]

OK, should I start with the basics then? New plugs, fresh fuel?

I still need to do a fuel pressure test, just wasn't able to adapt my gauge to the hose with what I had lying around. I'll try a hydraulic store tomorrow to get sorted.

[old guy]

OK, should I start with the basics then? New plugs, fresh fuel?

I still need to do a fuel pressure test, just wasn't able to adapt my gauge to the hose with what I had lying around. I'll try a hydraulic store tomorrow to get sorted.

Fuel doesn't go bad in one month. Definitely want to check your fuel pressure at the fuel rail. ECS Tuning has an inexpensive in-line option. Clicky click®.

[DJMurphy]

I should close this thread out.

After I verified the correct fuel pressure I ended up throwing new plugs and coil packs on. No issues have returned since then, engine is running good so far.