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  1. #1
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    Replaced key fob shell and now buttons don't work...

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    Replaced the entire key shell, reusing the main circuit board, and it took me awhile to figure out the winding thing with the spring, so did I somehow fry the circuit board or is there some kind of anti-theft security or something going on? The little LED flashes red when I push the button but nothing happens. I'm guessing I somehow fried the circuit board but would like some feedback if anybody has any, thanks.

    Edit: Clarified that I reused the original circuit board.
    Last edited by danbfree; 08-09-2016 at 09:16 AM.

  2. #2
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    Have you reseted the key? When you take out the battery from the key you have to do a simple procedure with another working key. You can find this on yt. Here https://youtu.be/0cZQm65sZjc
    I had the same problem and that method fixed it. I hope it works for you as well since you say the red leds are flashing the key should be fine.


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    Veteran Member Four Rings Okedokey's Avatar
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    Did you take the little security chip out and move that too? Also, you need to recode, you can do it manually or just drive the car for a while and it will fix it.
    A4 B7 2.0T | HPFP upgrade + FMIC | BSR Stage II + exhaust + HFC | 3.0TFSI Throt. Body | RS4 fuel contr., PRV + S3 inj., G247 + DW300c | GFB DV+| 034 RSB + all arms and mounts | S4 brakes | B12 Bilstein suspension + H&R springs | RNS-E + Polk Audio PA D5000.5 - 4 x DB6502 + DB840DVC sub + Pioneer 10" sub | LEDs throughout | 19" Audi 2015 RS4 rims

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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by thecoon View Post
    Have you reseted the key? When you take out the battery from the key you have to do a simple procedure with another working key. You can find this on yt. Here https://youtu.be/0cZQm65sZjc
    I had the same problem and that method fixed it. I hope it works for you as well since you say the red leds are flashing the key should be fine.
    Thanks! The key opens/locks the door and starts the car fine... I didn't think it would be a big deal since I reused the original circuit board so I'll check out that video when I get home from work tonight.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Okedokey View Post
    Did you take the little security chip out and move that too? Also, you need to recode, you can do it manually or just drive the car for a while and it will fix it.
    Since I re-used the circuit board and just replaced the shell I didn't know there was a little security chip... I'll take a closer look and make sure I didn't miss anything.

  6. #6
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    The fob just needs to be re-paired since you removed the battery.
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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by LINDW4LL View Post
    The fob just needs to be re-paired since you removed the battery.
    Is that where you just drive it with that key and it will do it automatically or ??? Thanks for the tips.

  8. #8
    Veteran Member Four Rings pezgoon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LINDW4LL View Post
    The fob just needs to be re-paired since you removed the battery.

    I actually just purchased my A4 a couple weeks ago and one fob worked and the other (didn't try it till yesterday) doesn't, I tried doing the re-paring as per the manual (which would be the method as when replacing the battery) to no avail, I switched the batteries between the two to make sure it wasn't dead and was able to re-pair the one I had been using without issue and still could not pair the other remote.

    The video posted near the top though, I have a feeling will work as it seems to be a method of "assigning" the key to the car.

    Originally Posted by danbfree
    Is that where you just drive it with that key and it will do it automatically or ??? Thanks for the tips.
    This doesn't work from my experience, I spent the whole day driving with the key that didn't work and it didn't do anything just as an FYI. Try the method posted above in the youtube video and I bet it will work, I will be trying it with my own key as soon as I get home as well

    Unless you cannot drive with the key which would also mean you left the little security bit in the old shell, its like a glass vial with a transponder in it. If you can drive the car with the key that the remote doesn't work on then you should have already transferred everything. I'm almost positive the transponder only deals with the ignition and allowing you to drive the car, it should have nothing to do with the doors
    Eric

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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by pezgoon View Post
    I actually just purchased my A4 a couple weeks ago and one fob worked and the other (didn't try it till yesterday) doesn't, I tried doing the re-paring as per the manual (which would be the method as when replacing the battery) to no avail, I switched the batteries between the two to make sure it wasn't dead and was able to re-pair the one I had been using without issue and still could not pair the other remote.

    The video posted near the top though, I have a feeling will work as it seems to be a method of "assigning" the key to the car.



    This doesn't work from my experience, I spent the whole day driving with the key that didn't work and it didn't do anything just as an FYI. Try the method posted above in the youtube video and I bet it will work, I will be trying it with my own key as soon as I get home as well

    Unless you cannot drive with the key which would also mean you left the little security bit in the old shell, its like a glass vial with a transponder in it. If you can drive the car with the key that the remote doesn't work on then you should have already transferred everything. I'm almost positive the transponder only deals with the ignition and allowing you to drive the car, it should have nothing to do with the doors
    Thank you, I do have the original manual, I will do the re-pairing tonight... That's exactly what I needed to know, I appreciate it!

  10. #10
    Veteran Member Four Rings pezgoon's Avatar
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    Ok so even trying the method above from YouTube, I could still not get it to assign to the car, this is aggravating me lol.

    Danbfree, the method from YouTube up top is different than the manuals version, try both ways though

    If anyone has any suggestions other than the going to the dealer as to why I cannot program one remote please let me know. Its really bugging the crap outta me
    Eric

    2005.5 6mt A4 2.0 94k miles
    2010 Q5 3.2L 6at 160k miles

  11. #11
    Veteran Member Four Rings LINDW4LL's Avatar
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    Try this method, OP

    ---

    1. Press and hold the unlock key on remote
    2. Insert key in ignition and turn to on (while still holding unlock)
    3. Hold unlock while in the on position for 2 seconds
    4. Turn key to off, remove from ignition and release button.
    -Hayden

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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by LINDW4LL View Post
    Try this method, OP

    ---

    1. Press and hold the unlock key on remote
    2. Insert key in ignition and turn to on (while still holding unlock)
    3. Hold unlock while in the on position for 2 seconds
    4. Turn key to off, remove from ignition and release button.
    Thank you, I'll definitely try this one first.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by pezgoon View Post
    Ok so even trying the method above from YouTube, I could still not get it to assign to the car, this is aggravating me lol.

    Danbfree, the method from YouTube up top is different than the manuals version, try both ways though

    If anyone has any suggestions other than the going to the dealer as to why I cannot program one remote please let me know. Its really bugging the crap outta me
    I'll try the ways suggested here and also check the manual to be sure, thanks everyone!

  13. #13
    Veteran Member Four Rings pezgoon's Avatar
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    Okay I finally figured it out! Lindw4ll I tried that methods so many times I thought I was gonna burn out my lpfp from priming it. It was useless. I dont know whether it was a replacement key fob that my second one wad and that's why it wasn't working BUT!

    http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...i-flip-key-fob

    Using this tutorial, after trying the first part three times (again just incase I messed it up) to no avail! I went on to the "assigning key fob to car" section!

    I tried it three times, on the third time I hit unlock as soon as I released the key from locking the doors and I heard it click and the lights flashed!! Then did the second unlock ten seconds later and it WORKED!!!! Finally! This has been driving me mad!

    Danbfree, read the tutorial in the link I just posted but when you lock the doors with the key right as soon as it returns to horizontal position press unlock button and it should work, he didnt say this in the tutorial, but everything else was accurate! (under the assigning new key section)

    Try that method and report back!
    Eric

    2005.5 6mt A4 2.0 94k miles
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  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by pezgoon View Post
    Okay I finally figured it out! Lindw4ll I tried that methods so many times I thought I was gonna burn out my lpfp from priming it. It was useless. I dont know whether it was a replacement key fob that my second one wad and that's why it wasn't working BUT!

    http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...i-flip-key-fob

    Using this tutorial, after trying the first part three times (again just incase I messed it up) to no avail! I went on to the "assigning key fob to car" section!

    I tried it three times, on the third time I hit unlock as soon as I released the key from locking the doors and I heard it click and the lights flashed!! Then did the second unlock ten seconds later and it WORKED!!!! Finally! This has been driving me mad!

    Danbfree, read the tutorial in the link I just posted but when you lock the doors with the key right as soon as it returns to horizontal position press unlock button and it should work, he didnt say this in the tutorial, but everything else was accurate! (under the assigning new key section)

    Try that method and report back!
    I'm not sure what you mean... I have only one total key and now it says SAFE mode, UGH!

  15. #15
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    So now my car is in safe mode and won't start... I could have sworn that it was fine at fist and all I did was the hold unlock insert, on for two seconds, back to off, release unlock... If it's in safe mode does this mean I missed some security chip? Can someone describe this better, is it the clear-ish thing in the upper shell corner?

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    Well, the new fob came with a blank key so I'll have to go get it cut and then do the two key fix and hopefully that works. I can't believe just trying the most basic first step any one would do after changing a battery actually put it into safe mode... Ugh.

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  17. #17
    Veteran Member Four Rings LINDW4LL's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by danbfree View Post
    So now my car is in safe mode and won't start... I could have sworn that it was fine at fist and all I did was the hold unlock insert, on for two seconds, back to off, release unlock... If it's in safe mode does this mean I missed some security chip? Can someone describe this better, is it the clear-ish thing in the upper shell corner?

    Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk
    You said you already started it after switching the case, right? If so, you had to have swapped over the immobilizer chip, or you had the old key still near the ignition cylinder.

    Which is it?
    -Hayden

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  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by LINDW4LL View Post
    You said you already started it after switching the case, right? If so, you had to have swapped over the immobilizer chip, or you had the old key still near the ignition cylinder.

    Which is it?
    OK, never moved the immobilizer, I found on another thread that it IS the Grey corner piece so in the process of switching it in now, crossing fingers!

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by LINDW4LL View Post
    You said you already started it after switching the case, right? If so, you had to have swapped over the immobilizer chip, or you had the old key still near the ignition cylinder.

    Which is it?
    It started originally but the fuel cutoff hadn't kicked in yet... Now that I have it all swapped over I can't get it out of safe mode, I'll have to try some more tricks later but I have a meeting to go to right now.

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    Quote Originally Posted by LINDW4LL View Post
    You said you already started it after switching the case, right? If so, you had to have swapped over the immobilizer chip, or you had the old key still near the ignition cylinder.

    Which is it?
    So ya, I have no idea what happened but right after swapping the key into the new case it was NOT in safe mode originally and it did start without the immobilizer chip.. The ignition had been worked on at one point for "key sometimes doesn't work", maybe the dealer allowed some kind of "gimmie" mode to get the customer off their case. All I know is once I tried to do the basic re-pairing mode without the immobilizer, it went into Safe mode and now even with the immobilizer swapped over it won't come out of Safe mode... I gotta hope getting a 2nd physical key cut will allow me to do the 2 key programming, I'm already not happy at all I now have a non working car.

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    Veteran Member Four Rings LINDW4LL's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by danbfree View Post
    So ya, I have no idea what happened but right after swapping the key into the new case it was NOT in safe mode originally and it did start without the immobilizer chip.. The ignition had been worked on at one point for "key sometimes doesn't work", maybe the dealer allowed some kind of "gimmie" mode to get the customer off their case. All I know is once I tried to do the basic re-pairing mode without the immobilizer, it went into Safe mode and now even with the immobilizer swapped over it won't come out of Safe mode... I gotta hope getting a 2nd physical key cut will allow me to do the 2 key programming, I'm already not happy at all I now have a non working car.
    Hmm, that's very weird.

    Check out this thread, and post 13... http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...on-t-even-work
    -Hayden

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    So disconnect the battery and literally connect the now loose leads to single jumper cable so that it is closed circuit? I wonder if I'll need the 2 keys at that point or just do the programming thing like it's a new key, I'll have the blank cut to work as a 2nd door key at least then.. Thanks.. Obviously not fun going all through this for changing a key shell but it was beat up and didn't even have the chrome piece to attach to anything... I wish I found the thread that showed the immobilizer chip before all this happened... sigh... Thanks for all of your ideas, at least I know this last one should work, but I feel really stupid right now!

  23. #23
    Veteran Member Four Rings LINDW4LL's Avatar
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    He just meant to touch the (loose) positive and negative leads together. It drains any remaining voltage from the system. Not necessary really.
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  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by LINDW4LL View Post
    He just meant to touch the (loose) positive and negative leads together. It drains any remaining voltage from the system. Not necessary really.
    OK I'll give it a shot tomorrow, I'll even leave them touching for a while since that seems to help, I remember having to reset computer motherboards that way when you pull the battery, which is also a 2032 BTW...

  25. #25
    Veteran Member Four Rings pezgoon's Avatar
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    If you have a blank key cut it obviously needs a transponder programmed into it which supposedly only Audi can do? I feel like there are third party companies that can do it as well.

    Sorry to hear that, I figured since the car ran then you had already transfered the transponder. That is really crazy that it ran without it, does it have an automatic starter?
    Eric

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  26. #26
    Veteran Member Four Rings pezgoon's Avatar
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    So some bad news :( went to use my remote on the keyfob that WAS working and now doesn't work, so it seems doing the program mode through the door, it "forgets" all other remotes other than ones being programmed at that moment, so my guess is the po lost all the keys but one and had to buy another key, and without the valet key I cannot program both my remotes! Fcking people! Now I got try and buy a valet key! Gerrrrr
    Eric

    2005.5 6mt A4 2.0 94k miles
    2010 Q5 3.2L 6at 160k miles

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by pezgoon View Post
    If you have a blank key cut it obviously needs a transponder programmed into it which supposedly only Audi can do? I feel like there are third party companies that can do it as well.

    Sorry to hear that, I figured since the car ran then you had already transfered the transponder. That is really crazy that it ran without it, does it have an automatic starter?
    Ya, it ran the first few times without the immobilizer so I figured I had moved it over... It's my bad I didn't think to search the forum here, there was a DIY guide with photos that showed how to make sure you move that over as well... Like I was saying, in the service history there wasa complain of "Sometimes key doesn't work" and my guess is that the dealership just enabled some kind of gimme mode in the VAG tool to allow the car to start and when I tried to do the pairing thing without the immobilizer it threw it into SAFE mode... UGH, can't believe they sold me an Audi with only one total key, no valet key tag, nothing... :(

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by pezgoon View Post
    So some bad news :( went to use my remote on the keyfob that WAS working and now doesn't work, so it seems doing the program mode through the door, it "forgets" all other remotes other than ones being programmed at that moment, so my guess is the po lost all the keys but one and had to buy another key, and without the valet key I cannot program both my remotes! Fcking people! Now I got try and buy a valet key! Gerrrrr
    What is it with people buying a nice Audi and not even taking care of the GD keys? UGH... If the disconnect the battery/shorting the cables trick doesn't work I'm going to have to get mine TOWED in tomorrow! Luckily we have another car we use as a daily driver but still, I love my new baby and she is completely out of commission!

  29. #29
    Veteran Member Four Rings pezgoon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by danbfree View Post
    What is it with people buying a nice Audi and not even taking care of the GD keys? UGH... If the disconnect the battery/shorting the cables trick doesn't work I'm going to have to get mine TOWED in tomorrow! Luckily we have another car we use as a daily driver but still, I love my new baby and she is completely out of commission!
    Ya hopefully it will work, it sounds like he got it to work though without going to dealer, seems like a long process but better than going to dealer lol.

    I know I never understood how people lose their keys or dont take care of them! Both of my keys are F'd up! I'm atleast lucky enough to have a working key, sorry about that man :(I would've suggested the immobilizer if it hadn't worked at all.. That is still very strange
    Eric

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    Yes, you did mention the immobilizer right away and my weird setup threw us both off.. Thanks for all the advice!

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    Quote Originally Posted by LINDW4LL View Post
    Hmm, that's very weird.

    Check out this thread, and post 13... http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...on-t-even-work
    IT WORKED! I just disconnected the battery, but the cables were too short to touch together, so I took an audio AUX cable and used a pair of spring clamps to jump them together... I came back 20 minutes later, reconnected battery and as soon as I opened the door, no SAFE! Then I simply turned to on, waited 10 seconds, repeated a couple of times and then did the button programming thing which worked on the first try! It started right up, let it warm up while I reset the time and date... It did have the traction control light on but went away within seconds of driving! I then took it on a nice 55 MPH highway, flooring it from the start to make sure if there was any adaptive throttle/transmission response happening that it would learn to be responsive for me... Now she goes in to the shop in the morning for right side control arms, new pair of Bilstein struts and an alignment... I wish I could do a nice $400+ control arm kit, but after putting a wad down to get the car, and after the left side was done only 30k miles ago AND after the brake shop said left side was good, I'll take my chances with doing just the right side for now...

  32. #32
    Veteran Member Four Rings Okedokey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Okedokey View Post
    Did you take the little security chip out and move that too? Also, you need to recode, you can do it manually or just drive the car for a while and it will fix it.
    I did say this immediately.
    A4 B7 2.0T | HPFP upgrade + FMIC | BSR Stage II + exhaust + HFC | 3.0TFSI Throt. Body | RS4 fuel contr., PRV + S3 inj., G247 + DW300c | GFB DV+| 034 RSB + all arms and mounts | S4 brakes | B12 Bilstein suspension + H&R springs | RNS-E + Polk Audio PA D5000.5 - 4 x DB6502 + DB840DVC sub + Pioneer 10" sub | LEDs throughout | 19" Audi 2015 RS4 rims

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    Quote Originally Posted by Okedokey View Post
    I did say this immediately.
    Not sure why you are bringing this up now, like "little security chip" means anything when the whole circuit board could be interpreted as "little security chip".. If you said "did you pry up the grey upper corner module and move that over as well as the main circuit board", now THAT might have been useful, but thanks anyway, I'm good to go now.

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    Yes we both did okey dokey and he already stated that earlier up in the post, understandable that he missed it.

    You say it was a grey chip? The only diy I saw showed a small glass vial not a small chip, good to know as I might be replacing my cases as well as both have been dropped so much, and ones even brown for some reason! The po gave almost no shit about this car and it has only 40k

    Wish I had 35k to just on

    Glad to hear it worked! I was really hoping it would, I'm gonna have to store this knowledge away so if it happens to me some day! Lol.

    When you say the battery reprogramming worked immediately, you mean when you reprogrammed it in the ignition? I wonder if I did this if I could program both my keys just in the ignition without needing a valet key.. Hmmm. Or I wonder if they had to do this and that is why only one key works! Hmmmmm

    Again, glad to see you driving it without having to go to the stealership!
    Eric

    2005.5 6mt A4 2.0 94k miles
    2010 Q5 3.2L 6at 160k miles

  35. #35
    Account Terminated Three Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by pezgoon View Post
    Yes we both did okey dokey and he already stated that earlier up in the post, understandable that he missed it.

    You say it was a grey chip? The only diy I saw showed a small glass vial not a small chip, good to know as I might be replacing my cases as well as both have been dropped so much, and ones even brown for some reason! The po gave almost no shit about this car and it has only 40k

    Wish I had 35k to just on

    Glad to hear it worked! I was really hoping it would, I'm gonna have to store this knowledge away so if it happens to me some day! Lol.

    When you say the battery reprogramming worked immediately, you mean when you reprogrammed it in the ignition? I wonder if I did this if I could program both my keys just in the ignition without needing a valet key.. Hmmm. Or I wonder if they had to do this and that is why only one key works! Hmmmmm

    Again, glad to see you driving it without having to go to the stealership!
    So ya, the little glass vial is protected by a plastic grey cover in the upper corner, there is a DIY thread on here that shows it in photos... As far as the programming, to start the car it didn't need any and the fob buttons worked on the very first try with the holding down unlock, insert, turn to on for two seconds, back off, remove and release... As long as you have one working key you should be able to program the other using the methods discussed in that thread posted earlier. Thanks for all the tips guys, I appreciate your time!
    Last edited by danbfree; 08-11-2016 at 03:36 PM.

  36. #36
    Veteran Member Four Rings pezgoon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by danbfree View Post
    So ya, the little glass vial is protected by a plastic grey cover in the upper corner, there is a DIY thread on here that shows it in photos... As far as the programming, ya, to start the car it didn't need any programming and the fob buttons worked on the very first try with the holding down unlock, insert, turn to on for two seconds, back off, remove and release... As long as you have one working key you should be able to program the other using the methods discussed in that thread posted earlier. Thanks for all the tips guys, I appreciate your time!

    Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk
    Actually I was the one whom posted that info, and apparently what happens is that when you try to program the keys if you have two, it erases the other one cause you need to use one to be in programming mode lol

    So now I am either gonna try the way you did to get it to work, or I'm gonna just buy a valet key
    Eric

    2005.5 6mt A4 2.0 94k miles
    2010 Q5 3.2L 6at 160k miles

  37. #37
    Account Terminated Three Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by pezgoon View Post
    Actually I was the one whom posted that info, and apparently what happens is that when you try to program the keys if you have two, it erases the other one cause you need to use one to be in programming mode lol

    So now I am either gonna try the way you did to get it to work, or I'm gonna just buy a valet key
    Hmm, you would think if you used the one good one in the ignition then that would stay good to at least get the immobilizer paired and then reprogram each fob buttons using the single ignition pairing.

    Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk

  38. #38
    Veteran Member Four Rings Okedokey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by danbfree View Post
    Not sure why you are bringing this up now, like "little security chip" means anything when the whole circuit board could be interpreted as "little security chip".. If you said "did you pry up the grey upper corner module and move that over as well as the main circuit board", now THAT might have been useful, but thanks anyway, I'm good to go now.
    Pull your head in bro, a quick google search and some initiative would have found this issue at post 2. Secondly, if you're going to be an ass-hat, you aint going to get much help around here.
    A4 B7 2.0T | HPFP upgrade + FMIC | BSR Stage II + exhaust + HFC | 3.0TFSI Throt. Body | RS4 fuel contr., PRV + S3 inj., G247 + DW300c | GFB DV+| 034 RSB + all arms and mounts | S4 brakes | B12 Bilstein suspension + H&R springs | RNS-E + Polk Audio PA D5000.5 - 4 x DB6502 + DB840DVC sub + Pioneer 10" sub | LEDs throughout | 19" Audi 2015 RS4 rims

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  39. #39
    Veteran Member Four Rings pezgoon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by danbfree View Post
    Hmm, you would think if you used the one good one in the ignition then that would stay good to at least get the immobilizer paired and then reprogram each fob buttons using the single ignition pairing.

    Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk
    Both my chips work just not the remotes (I can drive with both), and I figured the same thing but when I try it I cannot match the remote in the ignition, if you think about it, when the car is bought new, you get four keys, two remotes, a valet and a wallet key. So they assume you ahve a dummy key (either the valet or wallet key) to use in the ignition to enter programming mode, and be able to program both remotes through the door (which erases all remotes and starts over) it isn't until you buy a used car your shafted with only one or two remotes. Atleast I got the two remotes and didn't get mega shafted lol
    Eric

    2005.5 6mt A4 2.0 94k miles
    2010 Q5 3.2L 6at 160k miles

  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by Okedokey View Post
    Pull your head in bro, a quick google search and some initiative would have found this issue at post 2. Secondly, if you're going to be an ass-hat, you aint going to get much help around here.
    I have no clue why you are upset, I simply said your description of the chip didn't register with me, sorry that hurt your feelings.. I did end up here to start the thread after a web search, I didn't want to perform additional ones that would just throw me off after getting advice from you guys who had already been offering lots of tips... I also DID say thank you, and I mean that, for trying...

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