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  1. #1
    Established Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Aug 19 2008
    AZ Member #
    32136
    Location
    US (Al.)

    Control arm bushing replacement

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    Have any of y'all removed the control arms yourself? I've got to get these bushings replaced, and I'd like to get a rundown of the procedure I need to follow to get the arms off. The top ones look simple enough, but how do the lower arms separate from the hub? Is it possible to do this without a lift? Did you replace all the ball joints?

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Three Rings ColtS5's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 18 2013
    AZ Member #
    121298
    My Garage
    2022 Kia Telluride, 2024 Jeep Grand Cherokee, 2018 Porsche Cayman S
    Location
    Indianapolis

    You mention bushing replacement, which you can press in, but replacing the complete control arms is easier, and does not require a press. The the top ones are simple unless the pinch bolt has corrosion and is frozen. I've battled both, the ez, and frozen one. Hope you have a non-frozen one, though you might want to purchase the pinch bolt, JIC. If it is frozen, PB Blaster, a good punch set, and event a torch could come into play. We were able to get a frozen one out with just PB Blaster....we were high for days! I've never used a lift, but make sure you get both wheel off the ground.

    A bit more for the lowers, and there are some good write ups. If doing the lowers, I'd do the ball joints and might want to tackle the wheel bearings as well. Several online parts suppliers sell kits, some which include the hardware.

  3. #3
    Veteran Member Three Rings TTRStud's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 12 2013
    AZ Member #
    118796
    Location
    Jacksonville, FL

    As mentioned above, you're better off replacing the arms themselves, which will take care of the bushings. Look through my threads and you'll find one specifically addressing this question in detail. I was able to put together en entire front kit (upper arms, lower arms, ball joints, hardware kit) for about $800, where all parts with the exception of the trailing lower control arms, were OEM. I went with Mayle for the trailing ones because: 1) there was no discernible difference in quality, 2) the bushings are solid instead of liquid filled (which will outlast the OEM ones), and 3) much better pricing. Meyle also builds OEM components, so there's no reason to doubt their quality. Check out my thread, all part numbers and links are provided there. It would not have been possible without the help of a very generous forum member who had done the job before I decided to tackle it.
    '10 Meteor Gray Metallic S5 Prestige Loaded 6MT - AWE Track - PCed OEM Rotors

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