Timing belt, to do, or not to do, that is the question

[pezgoon]

Alright guys so I just picked up a 2005.5 a4 two weeks ago (fcking love this thing!) and shes only got (just turned too!) 40k miles on her so obviously the timing belt (and all other bits) are original. I was going to replace just the belt but since I see how much of a bear it is (really Audi! The whole front end!!) I'm now thinking I will just do everything as I don't wanna be doing it twice. My question is should I/do I need to do it because of the age of the belt even with the low miles?

What do you guys think?

[Hugh@EuropaParts]

Do it because of the age... those components are 12 years old.

Timing Belt Kit DIY

Timing Belt Kit (A4 B7 2.0T)



This is, hands-down, the most high-quality and complete OEM certified timing belt kit for Audi A4 B7 2.0T [2005-2008] on the market. We have put in a lot of research and testing into each part (and manufacturer) to make sure that you receive everything required to perform the best timing belt job in your Audi A4 B7 2.0T.

Why you should buy your Audi A4 B7 2.0T timing belt kit from EuropaParts.com:

• All parts in this timing belt kit are OEM (or better) quality and TüV/ISO 9001 certified
• Our team carefully selected and tested every part to ensure the perfect fit and quality
• You can customize the timing belt kit components to fit your needs (or just go with our recommendation below)
• Your complete satisfaction is our highest objective.

Feel free to contact us if you have any questions about this Audi A4 B7 2.0T timing belt kit. We look forward to hearing from you.

RECOMMENDED Timing Belt Kit Components:*

• 1 x Timing Belt (2.0T FSI) (Continental, 06D109119B)
• 1 x Timing Belt Roller (INA, 06D109244E)
• 1 x Timing Belt Roller (NTN, 06B109244)
• 1 x Timing Belt Tensioner (NTN, 06D109243B)
• 1 x Water Pump (2.0T, Metal Impeller) (Geba, 06F121011)
• 1 x Accessory Drive Belt (1570mm) (Continental, 06D903137C)
• 1 x Crankshaft Seal (35x48x10) (Elring, 038103085E)
• 1 x Camshaft Seal (47x10x32) (Elring, 038103085C)

OPTIONAL Timing Belt Kit Hardware:

• 6 x Bolt (M8x16) (Genuine Audi VW, N91143901)
• 1 x Bolt (M8x45) (Genuine Audi VW, N10268304)
• 1 x Nut (M8) (Genuine Audi VW, N01100845)
• 1 x Washer (M8) (Genuine Audi VW, N0152785)

OPTIONAL Timing Belt Kit Components:

• 1 x Genuine G12 Plus Plus Engine Coolant (1 Gallon) (Genuine Audi VW, G012A8G1G)
• 1 x Thermostat (A4 B7, 2.0T) (Behr, 06D121111G)
• 1 x Accessory Drive Belt Tensioner Assembly (Latest Revision) (INA, 06B903133E)
• 1 x Timing Belt Service Sticker (Genuine Audi VW, 059010158A)

[pezgoon]

Do it because of the age... those components are 12 years old.

Timing Belt Kit DIY

Timing Belt Kit (A4 B7 2.0T)



This is, hands-down, the most high-quality and complete OEM certified timing belt kit for Audi A4 B7 2.0T [2005-2008] on the market. We have put in a lot of research and testing into each part (and manufacturer) to make sure that you receive everything required to perform the best timing belt job in your Audi A4 B7 2.0T.

Why you should buy your Audi A4 B7 2.0T timing belt kit from EuropaParts.com:

• All parts in this timing belt kit are OEM (or better) quality and TüV/ISO 9001 certified
• Our team carefully selected and tested every part to ensure the perfect fit and quality
• You can customize the timing belt kit components to fit your needs (or just go with our recommendation below)
• Your complete satisfaction is our highest objective.

Feel free to contact us if you have any questions about this Audi A4 B7 2.0T timing belt kit. We look forward to hearing from you.

RECOMMENDED Timing Belt Kit Components:*

• 1 x Timing Belt (2.0T FSI) (Continental, 06D109119B)
• 1 x Timing Belt Roller (INA, 06D109244E)
• 1 x Timing Belt Roller (NTN, 06B109244)
• 1 x Timing Belt Tensioner (NTN, 06D109243B)
• 1 x Water Pump (2.0T, Metal Impeller) (Geba, 06F121011)
• 1 x Accessory Drive Belt (1570mm) (Continental, 06D903137C)
• 1 x Crankshaft Seal (35x48x10) (Elring, 038103085E)
• 1 x Camshaft Seal (47x10x32) (Elring, 038103085C)

OPTIONAL Timing Belt Kit Hardware:

• 6 x Bolt (M8x16) (Genuine Audi VW, N91143901)
• 1 x Bolt (M8x45) (Genuine Audi VW, N10268304)
• 1 x Nut (M8) (Genuine Audi VW, N01100845)
• 1 x Washer (M8) (Genuine Audi VW, N0152785)

OPTIONAL Timing Belt Kit Components:

• 1 x Genuine G12 Plus Plus Engine Coolant (1 Gallon) (Genuine Audi VW, G012A8G1G)
• 1 x Thermostat (A4 B7, 2.0T) (Behr, 06D121111G)
• 1 x Accessory Drive Belt Tensioner Assembly (Latest Revision) (INA, 06B903133E)
• 1 x Timing Belt Service Sticker (Genuine Audi VW, 059010158A)

Sigh.. I was afraid I would be told that but was expecting it lol. Do you think doing it sometime within the next two weeks to a month will be alright or should it have been done yesterday.

I have a vacation in September that I am going to be driving my car to/for and we will be climbing mount Washington as well as part of it, in total probably 1k of miles will be put on in the span of a week, should it be done before this? (more than likely) or could it be al right till after I get back? Typing it out I think I already know my answer lol

[Low and Behold]

Theres no real way to answer that. But for peace of mind (i would) do it asap

[konarider94]

40k miles is pretty low. Maybe take a peak at the belt behind the plastic cover to see if it has any cracks, I doubt it does. If it was regularly driven it should be fine. As far as the tensioner bearings and water pump are concerned they should age just fine, lifetime of those are driven by duty cycle and contamination, both of which are low for a low mileage vehicle.

Hugh is a good guy and Ive bought plenty of parts from him. I'm not sure I agree in this instance though.

[pezgoon]

40k miles is pretty low. Maybe take a peak at the belt behind the plastic cover to see if it has any cracks, I doubt it does. If it was regularly driven it should be fine. As far as the tensioner bearings and water pump are concerned they should age just fine, lifetime of those are driven by duty cycle and contamination, both of which are low for a low mileage vehicle.

Hugh is a good guy and Ive bought plenty of parts from him. I'm not sure I agree in this instance though.

I had gotten a 1993 volvo 850, it had 73k miles on it and its timing belt was done in 2003 at 50k miles, I replaced the timing belt for the piece of mind but that was a 13 year old belt and when I took it off it literally looked like it had just been put in, there was no even the slightest sign of age no matter how hard I bent it or anything I could do to it showed its age so that's why on this one its like "do I really need to change it" ya know. So I guess I'll take a look at it and see what shape its in, IDK its a very tough decision lol

Also the carfax showed that it was driven pretty regularly every year, about 3-5k a year (each year was different) with one being as high as 9k I think

I feel the same same way about the rest of the components thats why i was going to do just the belt at first but then when I saw the DIY and how much has to come off, I had no plans to do that twice lol so I figured I'd do it all at once (and do the GFB DV+ while I have awesome access to it)

[RakkCity]

I wouldn’t want to replace a motor in a 40k mile car...

Honestly the service position isn’t as crazy as it looks. Bumper comes off very easily, headlights come out like a breeze, service carriage comes off very easily. All in all its like less than 40 fasteners, maybe a few hours worth of labor and you have access to the whole front of the motor. Worst part is having to drain the coolant system.

I’d rather do that job than on a transverse motor where you’re working through the wheel well..


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[konarider94]

There is a reason the service intervals are mileage based. If you want extra work and expense out of fear/peace of mind then it certainly wont hurt. I'd wait until its at least convenient.

[pezgoon]

I wouldn’t want to replace a motor in a 40k mile car...

Honestly the service position isn’t as crazy as it looks. Bumper comes off very easily, headlights come out like a breeze, service carriage comes off very easily. All in all its like less than 40 fasteners, maybe a few hours worth of labor and you have access to the whole front of the motor. Worst part is having to drain the coolant system.

I’d rather do that job than on a transverse motor where you’re working through the wheel well..


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Lol! the volvo was transverse, but they luckily thought ahead and atleast left enough room to do the belt (I read the water pump and such suck to do but I didn't have the car long enough to do that!) on saabs and alot of other transverse cars you have to raise that side of the engine to do it! Which is rediculous..

No I don't want to replace the engine! I know that I'll end up doing it no matter how much I don't want to lol I just was hoping maybe I wouldn't have to! lol

You DO NOT have to drain the AC system if you just put the cooler under the car correct?

Do you have to rent/buy all of the Audi specific tools to do it? Or can it be done without them?

Why isn't the coolant bleed bolt located at the top of the engine mentioned in the DIY? (The one in the middle of the big black pipe that goes across the top of the engine)

Seen here all the way to the left int he picure (sorry its sideways)

[pezgoon]

There is a reason the service intervals are mileage based. If you want extra work and expense out of fear/peace of mind then it certainly wont hurt. I'd wait until its at least convenient.

Would it be worth it to call audi and see what they tell me? (I already can guess what they'll tell me)

[RakkCity]

I have an AC bench at home but yes you can slide the service carriage underneath the car if you don’t want to vacuum the Freon.

No Audi specific tools are required, maybe some triple square sockets by I don’t recall needing them. Everything else is just torx or hex head. For coolant bleed just drain with the coolant fill cap open. Once you pull the water pump the rest will come out (or at least a good amount). If you’re looking for a full coolant flush you can fill it a few times and drain it. Its a toss up but at least inspect the belt before your vacation. If it looks fine no cracks or wear marks then wait till after and definitely put in the DV+ while you have the front off its insanely easy to access in service mode.


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[Gin+]

I'd wait till 65-70k personally but I understand wanting peace of mind. ECS has full tutorial available @ http://bd8ba3c866c8cbc330ab-7b26c6f3...llation_r2.pdf

I did my 07 at 85k a few months ago. The main tensioner bearing was starting to go bad IMO as it didn't rotate completely smooth. No sign of wear otherwise.

[pezgoon]

I have an AC bench at home but yes you can slide the service carriage underneath the car if you don’t want to vacuum the Freon.

No Audi specific tools are required, maybe some triple square sockets by I don’t recall needing them. Everything else is just torx or hex head. For coolant bleed just drain with the coolant fill cap open. Once you pull the water pump the rest will come out (or at least a good amount). If you’re looking for a full coolant flush you can fill it a few times and drain it. Its a toss up but at least inspect the belt before your vacation. If it looks fine no cracks or wear marks then wait till after and definitely put in the DV+ while you have the front off its insanely easy to access in service mode.


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It is interesting that its called service mode but that makes perfect sense why it would be, I hope/am going to try and have the cash to do a FMIC while its all apart as well but I doubt I will be able to add that to the list, it would just be very nice since everything would already be off to do it!

I do not have an AC bench at home sadly, one of the few tools I don't have I do have a complete triple square socket set from blue point that I got for this car already if I need them.

That will be easier to get everything if I don't have to buy/rent all the extra tools, good to know.

I'd wait till 65-70k personally but I understand wanting peace of mind. ECS has full tutorial available @ http://bd8ba3c866c8cbc330ab-7b26c6f3...llation_r2.pdf

I did my 07 at 85k a few months ago. The main tensioner bearing was starting to go bad IMO as it didn't rotate completely smooth. No sign of wear otherwise.

Any noises from it or you only felt it once it was out?
Currently I am getting no noises from any of the pulleys but when I inspect the belt I will listen closer


Would anyone think its a bad idea to spend all the time putting it in service mode to only change the serpentine belt and timing belt until doing the complete timing service (all rollers, tensioners, water pump, thermostat etc) at a later time like 80-100k miles? As I could do just the belts before vacation I just don't think I can foot the $400+ bill right before going on vacation as I won't have enough time to save all the money back up for vacation (vacation is September 9-16th to give everyone a time frame) and I'm pretty strapped for cash from buying it only two weeks ago

Thanks for all the ideas/ help

[Hugh@EuropaParts]

One misconception about a failed timing belt is that it's not the belt that actually fails.

[pezgoon]

One misconception about a failed timing belt is that it's not the belt that actually fails.

??
Meaning that its a tensioner, roller, bearing, water pump, etc that fails and ends up shredding the belt/taking the belt with it. Or the water pump failing overheating the engine etc?

What would your suggestion be then to be done, the whole shebang?

[Hugh@EuropaParts]

??
Meaning that its a tensioner, roller, bearing, water pump, etc that fails and ends up shredding the belt/taking the belt with it. Or the water pump failing overheating the engine etc?

What would your suggestion be then to be done, the whole shebang?

exactly... If you're in there you might as well, it's literally roughly an extra $200.00 OR you can do the entire job over down the line. If you've ever owned an older vehicle or one that primarily sits in a garage and gets driven once in a while you'll know that these are much more prone to having issues. Ask any porsche owner...

[Charles.waite]

40k miles is pretty low. Maybe take a peak at the belt behind the plastic cover to see if it has any cracks, I doubt it does. If it was regularly driven it should be fine. As far as the tensioner bearings and water pump are concerned they should age just fine, lifetime of those are driven by duty cycle and contamination, both of which are low for a low mileage vehicle.

Hugh is a good guy and Ive bought plenty of parts from him. I'm not sure I agree in this instance though.

A regularly driven 2005 car would not have 40k miles...

I would do the whole shebang if it were me. Those parts don't have an indefinite shelf life. Time wears on them as just as much as use/mileage.

I did my 2008's timing service in 2012 @ 54k miles. I was replacing the intake cam right after I bought it and figured "while I was in there"... It means, at the rate I drive my car, my timing stuff is good for another 6-7 years. Its really not as bad a job as people make it out to be. I just wish I'd replaced the accessory belt tensioner and idler too though...

Also +1 for EuropaParts' kits. I got my stuff from them I believe and I love how you can customize it to include whatever you need and remove what you don't need.

[pezgoon]

exactly... If you're in there you might as well, it's literally roughly an extra $200.00 OR you can do the entire job over down the line. If you've ever owned an older vehicle or one that primarily sits in a garage and gets driven once in a while you'll know that these are much more prone to having issues. Ask any porsche owner...

Well its only the extra 200 for the most basic kit.. I had assumed doing everything available (460$) is what is needed, meaning the water pump thermostat, all of the accessory belt bits like its tensioner pulleys etc. VS 30$ plus shipping for a belt... Thats an IMMENSE difference in cost lol.
But I do know what you mean, like an inherited car that just sat its whole life, starts being daily driven and starts falling apart all over the place. It not being used to it isn't good for it, but mostly its just things start getting used and the time gets to them about the same as the mileage would

Do you think just the basic kit would be enough? Or go all out and do everything I can get my hands on

A regularly driven 2005 car would not have 40k miles...

I would do the whole shebang if it were me. Those parts don't have an indefinite shelf life. Time wears on them as just as much as use/mileage.

I did my 2008's timing service in 2012 @ 54k miles. I was replacing the intake cam right after I bought it and figured "while I was in there"... It means, at the rate I drive my car, my timing stuff is good for another 6-7 years. Its really not as bad a job as people make it out to be. I just wish I'd replaced the accessory belt tensioner and idler too though...

Also +1 for EuropaParts' kits. I got my stuff from them I believe and I love how you can customize it to include whatever you need and remove what you don't need.

It's not so much the job I'm afraid of doing, I just don't want to do it twice, but also am not in the financial position to do it all immediately... I sort of forgot about it and it was one of those OH old timing belt!!! Kinda things

Plus if I didn't have vacation in a month I would have the money to do it

So what would suggestions be for getting in the kit, what should be done immediately and what could wait a few months or if it can survive until the normal interval (100k) then years?

[wjg22]

I just had mine done at 66k. ECS has free shipping atm, so the ultimate kit was $250 I believe. Whatever you decide, I definitely wouldn't wait until 100k on a belt that's ten years old.


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[pezgoon]

Both belts looked fine and I compared them to my mothers (which had hers changed at 110k) and they looked good enough for me to wait until after vacation. I know that I cant base it upon the belt itself but I think I'm safe enough to atleast wait a couple months. I just do not wanna do half a job and I cannot afford 460$ at this immediate moment lol

[Charles.waite]

Both belts looked fine and I compared them to my mothers (which had hers changed at 110k) and they looked good enough for me to wait until after vacation. I know that I cant base it upon the belt itself but I think I'm safe enough to atleast wait a couple months. I just do not wanna do half a job and I cannot afford 460$ at this immediate moment lol

If the belts look okay then just leave it for now and do it all at once. You'll probably be just fine.

[papadelogan]

Borrow the money. Might be $460 now, but do you want to guess what it will cost to pull the head, buy new valves or maybe a full cylinder head, etc. if it snaps? I can tell you the number in 2010 dollars, I just have to find the receipts. If we were talking something like a snubmount or breather hose... meh, wait. If the TB snaps.. brother, it won't just be your attitude that will be bent out of shape.

[pezgoon]

Borrow the money. Might be $460 now, but do you want to guess what it will cost to pull the head, buy new valves or maybe a full cylinder head, etc. if it snaps? I can tell you the number in 2010 dollars, I just have to find the receipts. If we were talking something like a snubmount or breather hose... meh, wait. If the TB snaps.. brother, it won't just be your attitude that will be bent out of shape.

What happened with yours? The belt snapped? Or did a pulley fail? How many miles when it happened?

[Charles.waite]

What happened with yours? The belt snapped? Or did a pulley fail? How many miles when it happened?

The belts themselves rarely fail. Usually the water pump seizes, a tensioner fails or something else seizes which causes the belt to shred or snap.

[keaton85]

Keep in mind that you probably still have a plastic impeller, that would concern me way over the bearings at those mileage. The belt is never the concern like stated above. Also, lots of good kits out there, so look around. You don't really need every last little piece, probably just rollers, tensioner, belt and metal water pump. Pretty cheap and easy...

[RakkCity]

A regularly driven 2005 car would not have 40k miles...

I would do the whole shebang if it were me. Those parts don't have an indefinite shelf life. Time wears on them as just as much as use/mileage.

I did my 2008's timing service in 2012 @ 54k miles. I was replacing the intake cam right after I bought it and figured "while I was in there"... It means, at the rate I drive my car, my timing stuff is good for another 6-7 years. Its really not as bad a job as people make it out to be. I just wish I'd replaced the accessory belt tensioner and idler too though...

Also +1 for EuropaParts' kits. I got my stuff from them I believe and I love how you can customize it to include whatever you need and remove what you don't need.

So much this. I figured the squeal I had at start up/bogging was due to the belt but my tensioner is shot. Good thing I have to pull off the carriage to change my AC fan anyway.


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[Caconway2322]

Trust me put a reconditioned head on it and a timing belt. and be done with.


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[papadelogan]

What happened with yours? The belt snapped? Or did a pulley fail? How many miles when it happened?

My belt snapped while driving to work one lovely December morning @ 5am. Luckily I was only about 1 mile from home when it happened. It's been almost 3 years since that happened but I don't recall any tensioners/rollers being seized. HERE is the thread for the full story on that.

Preventive maintenance is almost always less costly that repairing something after it's broken. If it's a choice between food and the TB job... frankly, you probably shouldn't have an Audi then. My advice stands: borrow the money (if possible), find a quality kit and some local 'Ziner's to lend a hand & tools, and get those 12 year old parts replaced.

[kNightsfallen]

You'll be fine waiting a bit... It's not the belt that carries concern. It's the water pump. If cooling services were rarely done you'll find engines running hotter and corrosive materials circulating. And you can do the timing belt without putting the lock carrier in service position. I do the whole job in under two hours. But if your doing it in a driveway, service position may be the best way to go.


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[Caconway2322]

I just had an engine that had timing belt idler pulley failure that was at 130k. Bent 10 valves. 6 intake 4 exhaust.


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[80sGuy]

I had gotten a 1993 volvo 850, it had 73k miles on it and its timing belt was done in 2003 at 50k miles, I replaced the timing belt for the piece of mind but that was a 13 year old belt and when I took it off it literally looked like it had just been put in, there was no even the slightest sign of age no matter how hard I bent it or anything I could do to it showed its age so that's why on this one its like "do I really need to change it" ya know. So I guess I'll take a look at it and see what shape its in, IDK its a very tough decision lol

Also the carfax showed that it was driven pretty regularly every year, about 3-5k a year (each year was different) with one being as high as 9k I think

I feel the same same way about the rest of the components thats why i was going to do just the belt at first but then when I saw the DIY and how much has to come off, I had no plans to do that twice lol so I figured I'd do it all at once (and do the GFB DV+ while I have awesome access to it)

Volvos are super reliable when it comes to Timing Belt and Water Pump maintenance. Most dealers and enthusiasts usually recommend replacing the belt at average 120K while skipping the Water Pump for the second round, or right around 140-150K. But I'd do them all at once to prevent waste of time and costs. Now I'm not suggesting this for our monster-weight Audi B7 but if your car has a good history maintenance and are stock/non-mod, if the belt checked out fine you should be good for a little while. But get it done soon, perhaps under 50K.

I have a 2008 (built date July 2007) with 57K and will be replacing all the timing belt/components and water pump just because it develops the infamous rubbing during cold starts, but quickly dissipates in a minute or two. If good karma is with me then I shall get it replaced no later than 60K mainly due to age. Other than that I take really good care of my car, it is 100% stock and runs pretty much like new.

Speaking of Carfax: I never believe in such b.s. and it is mainly designed as a selling tool. Many cars I've seen including owning some myself in the past has had minor to moderate accidents but Carfax reported them as 'clean'. The way Carfax works; if you report anything to your insurance company, then it records to DMV, in turn, Carfax retrieves them as 'accidents' because they do not categorize the said claims. I had a case with my other car's rear bumper got 'bumped and scratched' by someone but unfortunately they were uninsured (typical L.A.) so my insurance company ended up taking care of me at no fault for the minor nicks and scratches, well, Carfax retrieves and reported it as 'accident'. In the past I've looked at MANY so-called clean cars with Carfax's unreliable data where most had obvious signs of prior damages due to repaints and replacements, missing vins on doors, panels, trunks etc. and were poorly repaired. If all parties agreed aside with work sourced under-the-table, perhaps by a shop they know then most likely the vehicles are accident/free as stated from Carfax. It is all b.s!

Note: also, you can record your own maintenance info with Carfax however way you want. . Actual work repair order/receipts are the ONLY thing I go by and so should everyone else!

[Charles.waite]

Carfax is sort of a sham. My current b7 was reported as Clean and I discovered multiple signs of accident damage in the rear and the bumper was repainted with a single stage paint and you can tell from really close.

Similarly, my old b6 was in two accidents, neither my fault, both resulting in nearly $3k in damage each time. Neither came up on the carfax when I sold it in 2015. I did the right thing and disclosed the accidents and the extent of the damage though.

[adam044]

Do it because of the age... those components are 12 years old.

Timing Belt Kit DIY

Timing Belt Kit (A4 B7 2.0T)



This is, hands-down, the most high-quality and complete OEM certified timing belt kit for Audi A4 B7 2.0T [2005-2008] on the market. We have put in a lot of research and testing into each part (and manufacturer) to make sure that you receive everything required to perform the best timing belt job in your Audi A4 B7 2.0T.

Why you should buy your Audi A4 B7 2.0T timing belt kit from EuropaParts.com:

• All parts in this timing belt kit are OEM (or better) quality and TüV/ISO 9001 certified
• Our team carefully selected and tested every part to ensure the perfect fit and quality
• You can customize the timing belt kit components to fit your needs (or just go with our recommendation below)
• Your complete satisfaction is our highest objective.

Feel free to contact us if you have any questions about this Audi A4 B7 2.0T timing belt kit. We look forward to hearing from you.

RECOMMENDED Timing Belt Kit Components:*

• 1 x Timing Belt (2.0T FSI) (Continental, 06D109119B)
• 1 x Timing Belt Roller (INA, 06D109244E)
• 1 x Timing Belt Roller (NTN, 06B109244)
• 1 x Timing Belt Tensioner (NTN, 06D109243B)
• 1 x Water Pump (2.0T, Metal Impeller) (Geba, 06F121011)
• 1 x Accessory Drive Belt (1570mm) (Continental, 06D903137C)
• 1 x Crankshaft Seal (35x48x10) (Elring, 038103085E)
• 1 x Camshaft Seal (47x10x32) (Elring, 038103085C)

OPTIONAL Timing Belt Kit Hardware:

• 6 x Bolt (M8x16) (Genuine Audi VW, N91143901)
• 1 x Bolt (M8x45) (Genuine Audi VW, N10268304)
• 1 x Nut (M8) (Genuine Audi VW, N01100845)
• 1 x Washer (M8) (Genuine Audi VW, N0152785)

OPTIONAL Timing Belt Kit Components:

• 1 x Genuine G12 Plus Plus Engine Coolant (1 Gallon) (Genuine Audi VW, G012A8G1G)
• 1 x Thermostat (A4 B7, 2.0T) (Behr, 06D121111G)
• 1 x Accessory Drive Belt Tensioner Assembly (Latest Revision) (INA, 06B903133E)
• 1 x Timing Belt Service Sticker (Genuine Audi VW, 059010158A)

Should the accessory belt tensioner and belt idler be replaced as well? I noticed they are optional but are they recommended or fine to leave if they are fine?

[danbfree]

How about "upgrades"/other things to do when getting the whole timing belt package done? Is it a no-brainer to go ahead and do the thermostat too? As far as upgrades, a new snub mount sounds dumb not to do, any other little things that can/should be done while all up in there?

[adam044]

Mine as well do the t stat if it hasn't been done.

The snub mount can be done in 10 minutes with the car on the ground. Has nothing to do with the timing belt at all.

- - - Updated - - -

Welcome to the Audi crew. I see you're new.

[wjg22]

Good call, I forgot about the snub mount


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[RakkCity]

How about "upgrades"/other things to do when getting the whole timing belt package done? Is it a no-brainer to go ahead and do the thermostat too? As far as upgrades, a new snub mount sounds dumb not to do, any other little things that can/should be done while all up in there?

if you haven't gone Rev D or DV+, it's a great time to do so. Literally took me 10 mins to swap it in when the front was off the car. Engine mounts are probably a lot easier if they haven't been replaced and your mileage is high. Also a good time to do a FMIC, but that's a little pricier and isn't necessary unless you're going stage 2 or above.

[danbfree]

if you haven't gone Rev D or DV+, it's a great time to do so. Literally took me 10 mins to swap it in when the front was off the car. Engine mounts are probably a lot easier if they haven't been replaced and your mileage is high. Also a good time to do a FMIC, but that's a little pricier and isn't necessary unless you're going stage 2 or above.

Car has 93k, getting front right control arms done this week, the lefts were done after an accident by previous owner about 20k ago. It had every possible TSB for ECM programming, intake flap, high pressure, low pressure, but not sure about DV and I do know I want a Stage I APR at least... Anyway, I'm gonna do timing belt around 100k so I'll have DV done at that time too. I did notice a little motion when stabbing a little on the gas, I prob should just do all the motor mounts too. But right now I'm dead in the water after putting it in immobilizer SAFE mode after changing key fobs, of course car was sold with one total key so have to get blank cut to use as dummy key, disconnect battery, etc, etc...

[danbfree]

Mine as well do the t stat if it hasn't been done.

The snub mount can be done in 10 minutes with the car on the ground. Has nothing to do with the timing belt at all.

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Welcome to the Audi crew. I see you're new.

Thanks, I had an '03 A4 3.0 from my dad but was too far gone to go all enthusiast mode on... But good to hear snub mount is easy, I'll just have it done at 100k with motor mounts and timing belt.

[RakkCity]

Car has 93k, getting front right control arms done this week, the lefts were done after an accident by previous owner about 20k ago. It had every possible TSB for ECM programming, intake flap, high pressure, low pressure, but not sure about DV and I do know I want a Stage I APR at least... Anyway, I'm gonna do timing belt around 100k so I'll have DV done at that time too. I did notice a little motion when stabbing a little on the gas, I prob should just do all the motor mounts too. But right now I'm dead in the water after putting it in immobilizer SAFE mode after changing key fobs, of course car was sold with one total key so have to get blank cut to use as dummy key, disconnect battery, etc, etc...

Lurk moar.

Go JHM stage 1, requires no mods but the DV is a good idea if it's not a Revision D. Earlier DV's are diaphragm style and will rip under the increased boost. Definitely do motor mounts, you won't know how much difference they make until you get them done. Do the trans mount too, but that doesn't have to be done with the front off. Snub mount has already been said.

Do you know what brand control arms they used? For the <$300 kit from FCPEuro, I'd just change them all to be sure they're quality and to be symmetrical.