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  1. #1
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    Sputtering on slight acceleration after driving 30 minutes.

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    2006 Audi A4 2.0 T

    Brief History of problem.

    Bought the car over a year ago. Great commuter car for a 45 minute commute. I have had a problem where if I drive a second time shortly after turning the car off (for example, I stop somewhere on the way home from my commute, or I go to the store or go get something to eat, etc.) then the following problems arise:

    The car lurches and sputters

    Scan showed Cylinder 4 misfire

    I replaced both the spark plugs and the ignition coils, and there definitely was improvement, but my car would still sputter upon driving it a second time (see above.)

    The problem worsened to where now my car starts to sputter while driving it the first time after about 30 minutes. My car will start to sputter and shake as I start to accelerate. Here's the weird part: the sputtering and shaking only happens when I press the gas petal lightly. If I continue to press down on the gas petal, then the car accelerates without sputtering and shaking--however the car doesn't accelerate as fast as it should. Once this problem starts, then my car sputters and shakes at red lights while idling. Here's another weird part: if I turn off my car at the light and turn it on again, then the sputtering / shaking at idle goes away. However, the sputtering upon light acceleration remains.

    Since this new problem has developed, I have replaced the ignition coils with new coils yet the symptoms are exactly the same. I checked the spark plugs and they look good. They are also gapped correctly.

    I've read quite a bit in these forums and others and here's the possibilities I've come up with:

    Wiring problem
    Vacuum problem
    Temperature sensor problem

    I'm hoping that the added detail will help with a proper diagnosis. Thank you in advance for any help. If the problems seems obvious, please bear in mind that I am a very low level mechanic. Like level 2 maybe on an 80 scale.:D

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Four Rings pezgoon's Avatar
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    If fuel filter hasn't been done could be that, also check cam follower if it hasn't been replaced. I've read that the cam follower can cause weird issues similar to this without throwing check engine light all the time. These are the easy/cheap things that I know of, it could be a vacuum leak but I'm not sure where to start looking for one (other than everywhere!) thats just my .02 cents maybe someone more experienced will have more ideas I just figure since they are cheap try fuel filter and cam follower

    Also how many miles on it and automatic/manual

    And I'm assuming no check engine light?

    Again I personally would replace the fuel filter first

    I just had a 1993 volvo 850 with 73k on it, kept stalling on me randomly when coming to stop signs or going to accelerate. Changed the fuel filter, nasty brown sht came out, didn't stall after that and I drove it for a couple months (whereas it happened all the time the first few days I drove it) and then traded it in for the Audi!
    Eric

    2005.5 6mt A4 2.0 94k miles
    2010 Q5 3.2L 6at 160k miles

  3. #3
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    Thank you so much pezgoon - The vehicle has > 180,000 miles and is automatic. I will definitely look into both the fuel filter and cam follower.

  4. #4
    Veteran Member Four Rings pezgoon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Saber7 View Post
    Thank you so much pezgoon - The vehicle has > 180,000 miles and is automatic. I will definitely look into both the fuel filter and cam follower.
    Oh most definitely at that age I would change those first if you have no history on it! The cam follower does require a special socket to get the HPFP fuel line off (I dont know which years need it though as both mine and my mothers are 2005.5 and they both have it but when we replaced my mothers HPFP it didnt have the same banjo bolt set up and I had to swap it around with the old one) so if you don't want to buy a socket I would suggest trying to find someone around you in regional whom has it or can help you with it

    It only requires pretty basic tools to do though, just read the DIY's and it may seem tough at first but it really isn't, it just takes learning how to fit your hand in certain places, and I don't know if the DIy's mention it but I always undo the bracket that holds the steel coolant line to the top of the engine, once you can move it to the side it gives you about 4-6 inches more room to work with and makes it ten times easier to get in there!

    Hopefully when you check on the cam follower it isn't worn through as that's a whole nother can of worms!

    Again hopefully someone more experienced with the platform can chime in

    Edit: Heres the coolant pipe I'm referring to
    Last edited by pezgoon; 08-03-2016 at 05:40 PM.
    Eric

    2005.5 6mt A4 2.0 94k miles
    2010 Q5 3.2L 6at 160k miles

  5. #5
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    Thank you for the replies. I will drop by an autozone / oreilly and get a fresh set of codes. I failed to mention that the check engine light is on, and I was planning on grabbing the codes tonight on my way home from work.

  6. #6
    Veteran Member Four Rings pezgoon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Saber7 View Post
    Thank you for the replies. I will drop by an autozone / oreilly and get a fresh set of codes. I failed to mention that the check engine light is on, and I was planning on grabbing the codes tonight on my way home from work.
    Ok so it is on! Ya that would be a huge help and could give some direction to the issue rather than just guessing, try and have them clear them after just in case some are old codes when the light comes back on you can get it checked again and see which come back
    Eric

    2005.5 6mt A4 2.0 94k miles
    2010 Q5 3.2L 6at 160k miles

  7. #7
    Veteran Member Four Rings adam044's Avatar
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    Check the cam follower and high pressure fuel pump to start.

    Also replace the fuel filter. It's about $40 and MAYBE 30-45 min to replace it. It's under the car and very easy to access.

  8. #8
    Veteran Member Four Rings pezgoon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by adam044 View Post
    Check the cam follower and high pressure fuel pump to start.

    Also replace the fuel filter. It's about $40 and MAYBE 30-45 min to replace it. It's under the car and very easy to access.
    Lol, read my first and second response to him, but glad to know I'm not the only one thinking it and that it is probably the right track
    Eric

    2005.5 6mt A4 2.0 94k miles
    2010 Q5 3.2L 6at 160k miles

  9. #9
    Veteran Member Four Rings adam044's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pezgoon View Post
    Lol, read my first and second response to him, but glad to know I'm not the only one thinking it and that it is probably the right track
    I know I know. I just wanted him to know that I also think the same.

  10. #10
    Veteran Member Four Rings pezgoon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by adam044 View Post
    I know I know. I just wanted him to know that I also think the same.
    Actually that's relieving to me lol, its not just me thinking that's what should be done! lol

    Side note, if the fuel filter has never been replaced the LPFP could be on its way out because its been overworked for so long trying to push through a clogged filter... Hopefully itll just be the easy items though!
    Eric

    2005.5 6mt A4 2.0 94k miles
    2010 Q5 3.2L 6at 160k miles

  11. #11
    Veteran Member Four Rings pezgoon's Avatar
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    Were you able to get the codes and or filter yesterday?
    Eric

    2005.5 6mt A4 2.0 94k miles
    2010 Q5 3.2L 6at 160k miles

  12. #12
    Veteran Member Four Rings Theiceman's Avatar
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    Those filter connections could be tricky for a low level mech as claimed. Do a bit of a read first to understand how those connections work. It not that bad but if grimy and stuck it can be ffrustrating while lying on your back.

    another part of the issue is generic code readers wont give you a lot of info . im sure its gonna indicate misfire codes. But grab what you can and head to the internet.
    Im assuming its bone stock with no tune ?
    2014 A4 2.0TQ Technik Manual
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  13. #13
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    I just got back from O'Reilly Auto--somehow the actual codes didn't make the trip home, but here is what the codes read:

    • Cylinder 1 Misfire
    • Cylinder 4 Misfire
    • Random Cylinder Misfire
    • Knock Sensor - I think this code was P0333
    • Knock Sensors 1 and 2 both threw codes



    So Cylinder 1 Misfire and random misfire was new - I had gotten the Knock Sensor and Cylinder 4 Misfire months ago.

    I looked up P0333 at the following url: http://www.obd-codes.com/p0333
    • Symptoms Symptoms of a P0333 DTC may include: MIL (Malfunction Indicator Lamp) illumination Audible knocking from the engine compartment Pinging from engine under acceleration Loss of power Irregular RPM Causes
    • Potential causes of a P0333 code include: Knock sensor connector is damaged Knock sensor circuit is open or shorted to ground Knock sensor circuit is shorted to voltage Knock sensor has failed Loose knock sensor Electrical interference in circuit Low fuel pressure Incorrect fuel octane Mechanical engine problem Failed/faulty PCM



    Apparently the issue could be a bad knock sensor, but I'm thinking low fuel pressure is more than likely the cause as stated under "potential causes" and as stated by the friendly forum members here.

    I did pick up a new fuel filter that I'm going to try to get installed today. I ordered replacement knock sensors even though the chances of them both going bad is slim.

    The gentleman at O'Reilly suggested I get both a compression test and a fuel compression test before troubleshooting further. What do you guys think? I have a replacement cam follower sitting at a warehouse that I can pick up tomorrow. Could a bad fuel filter cause all this? If only the fix were so simple! Not my luck style at all unfortunately.

    Thank you again for your time and help. :)

  14. #14
    Veteran Member Four Rings Okedokey's Avatar
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    Yes, replace the fuel filter. However given that your knock sensor could be bad, thereby making the ECU change ignition timing to prevent pre-detonation, I would change that first. You want to change the fuel filter AFTER you change the LPFP.
    A4 B7 2.0T | HPFP upgrade + FMIC | BSR Stage II + exhaust + HFC | 3.0TFSI Throt. Body | RS4 fuel contr., PRV + S3 inj., G247 + DW300c | GFB DV+| 034 RSB + all arms and mounts | S4 brakes | B12 Bilstein suspension + H&R springs | RNS-E + Polk Audio PA D5000.5 - 4 x DB6502 + DB840DVC sub + Pioneer 10" sub | LEDs throughout | 19" Audi 2015 RS4 rims

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  15. #15
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    I wasn't planning on replacing the Fuel Pump unless replacing the knock sensors didn't fix the issue. I'm trying to find a decent how-to for replacing the knock sensors. The parts will come in tomorrow for a Saturday project.

  16. #16
    Veteran Member Four Rings Okedokey's Avatar
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    A4 B7 2.0T | HPFP upgrade + FMIC | BSR Stage II + exhaust + HFC | 3.0TFSI Throt. Body | RS4 fuel contr., PRV + S3 inj., G247 + DW300c | GFB DV+| 034 RSB + all arms and mounts | S4 brakes | B12 Bilstein suspension + H&R springs | RNS-E + Polk Audio PA D5000.5 - 4 x DB6502 + DB840DVC sub + Pioneer 10" sub | LEDs throughout | 19" Audi 2015 RS4 rims

    My respray thread

  17. #17
    Veteran Member Four Rings pezgoon's Avatar
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    Ya I would replace the fuel filter first as well lol theres no real reason to wait until doing the lpfp and if it shows that you don't need to do the lpfp then that is way better than replacing it and not needing to. And if you really want you can just replace it again after doing the lpfp anyways lol (but I wouldn't)

    Ya I would definitely start with the knock sensors first, as the car could be retarding the ignition so much that its stalling out in just an attempt to save itself from any damage since it has no idea what's going on in the engine, do the sensors and you needed a fuel filter anyway so give it a shot (its supposed to be done every 30k)

    Clear the codes after replacement and see if they come back! If the misfire codes come back I would suggest swapping the coils around and seeing if it follows them, the coils (even though you just bought them) can fail quickly like that too they kinda suck in that sense.

    Also, who'd you get the coils from? (what brand)
    Last edited by pezgoon; 08-05-2016 at 06:04 AM.
    Eric

    2005.5 6mt A4 2.0 94k miles
    2010 Q5 3.2L 6at 160k miles

  18. #18
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    The coils were just swapped out under warranty. I didn't get the brand name, but I'm certain it isn't OEM. The sensors will come in today and I will likely be working on replacing them both Saturday and Sunday. I went through the steps on removing the intake manifold to get to the sensors--it seems like there are a lot of steps, but none of the steps looked ridiculous (except maybe taking the manifold off when the instructions say, "The fuel injectors may or may not come out with the manifold" - what!?) I'll be reviewing the instructions today and may post some questions if y'all don't mind. Thanks again for everyone's help. Seriously. Thank you.

    Edit: Am I going to need to take the fuel pump off anyway when I remove the intake manifold to access the knock sensors?
    Last edited by Saber7; 08-05-2016 at 01:47 PM.

  19. #19
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    Major updates - About a month ago my car took a bit of a nose dive. While driving on a road trip (yeah stupid I know) my car started shaking at around 80 mph. My car suffered loss of power and stuttering / sputtering / shaking ONLY when accelerating; the problem was worse at slight acceleration and the car only shook while lightly pressing down on the gas pedal.


    So I took my car in for service with german-specialist mechanics. They replaced both fuel pumps, the fuel filter, and swapped out all spark plugs and ignition coils - they told me they bought OEM coils, but the brand on the coils says "Bosch" so I'm assuming what I was told is inaccurate.

    Anyway, my car drove like a dream for about 1-2 weeks. Then the SAME problem came back--now here's the key part which is weird to me but hopefully is key to discovering the actual problem. When I first drive my car in the morning it drives pretty well--there's a slight misfire but that's it. About half way home from work 9 hours later, my car will sputter / shake / lose power -- again only shaking at slight acceleration. The shaking goes away if I press harder on the gas but there's a definite loss of power and sputters throughout. Any ideas on WTF is going on with me car? Thanks in advance!

  20. #20
    Veteran Member Four Rings Okedokey's Avatar
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    Throttle body clean, carbon clean, cam follower, throttle body adaptation, dirty injectors.

    You need to get a VCDS to track this down mate.

    Bosch are OEM>
    A4 B7 2.0T | HPFP upgrade + FMIC | BSR Stage II + exhaust + HFC | 3.0TFSI Throt. Body | RS4 fuel contr., PRV + S3 inj., G247 + DW300c | GFB DV+| 034 RSB + all arms and mounts | S4 brakes | B12 Bilstein suspension + H&R springs | RNS-E + Polk Audio PA D5000.5 - 4 x DB6502 + DB840DVC sub + Pioneer 10" sub | LEDs throughout | 19" Audi 2015 RS4 rims

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  21. #21
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    Thanks Okeydokey. I'm in AZ. Would most mechanics have a VCDS?

  22. #22
    Veteran Member Four Rings Okedokey's Avatar
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    I would hope so mate, not sure though. Most will have, you'd just need to ask first.
    A4 B7 2.0T | HPFP upgrade + FMIC | BSR Stage II + exhaust + HFC | 3.0TFSI Throt. Body | RS4 fuel contr., PRV + S3 inj., G247 + DW300c | GFB DV+| 034 RSB + all arms and mounts | S4 brakes | B12 Bilstein suspension + H&R springs | RNS-E + Polk Audio PA D5000.5 - 4 x DB6502 + DB840DVC sub + Pioneer 10" sub | LEDs throughout | 19" Audi 2015 RS4 rims

    My respray thread

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Okedokey View Post
    Throttle body clean, carbon clean, cam follower, throttle body adaptation, dirty injectors.

    You need to get a VCDS to track this down mate.

    Bosch are OEM>
    Don't forget the MAF sensor, probably wouldn't hurt to throw a can of sea foam in the gas tank too to clean out the injectors. Did OP ever change the knock sensors?


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  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by RakkCity View Post
    Don't forget the MAF sensor, probably wouldn't hurt to throw a can of sea foam in the gas tank too to clean out the injectors. Did OP ever change the knock sensors?


    Sent from my iPhone using Audizine mobile app
    I forgot to add the most recent codes were p304 misfire in cylinder 4 (again. This is always a code even after repairs) and p333 which is knock sensor 2. Here's another symptom. After my car starts acting up on a second drive, if I gun it and keep the gas pedal steady the acceleration lags about every other second if that makes sense. In other words it accelerates decently (not great) for a second and lags (loss of power) for a second while the gas pedal is depressed in the same position almost as though I were pumping the gas pedal up and down every other second. Why in balls does my car do this only on my second drive (and on) during the day? Why does my car need an overnight rest to drive decently (still minor misfires?)

    Could the MAF and knock sensors cause this?

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Saber7 View Post
    I forgot to add the most recent codes were p304 misfire in cylinder 4 (again. This is always a code even after repairs) and p333 which is knock sensor 2. Here's another symptom. After my car starts acting up on a second drive, if I gun it and keep the gas pedal steady the acceleration lags about every other second if that makes sense. In other words it accelerates decently (not great) for a second and lags (loss of power) for a second while the gas pedal is depressed in the same position almost as though I were pumping the gas pedal up and down every other second. Why in balls does my car do this only on my second drive (and on) during the day? Why does my car need an overnight rest to drive decently (still minor misfires?)

    Could the MAF and knock sensors cause this?
    When you say the acceleration lags, do you mean a slight blip in power for a split second (that's a misfire) or surging power like you're stepping on the pedal and letting off for a second then repeating? The former would be expected with a 0304 code, the latter sounds like a bad TPS or something else whacky.

    Bottle of MAF cleaner is gonna be $5 and it takes 5 mins to take it out of the car and spray down. Sea foam is $8 and takes 30 seconds to pour it in a full tank of gas. Couldn't hurt especially if it hasn't been done in a while.

    Your car's misfiring due to one of a few reasons- spark, fuel, or compression.

    I doubt it's compression due to the intermittent nature of the issue. Mechanical problems tend to be more of a permanent thing until it's fixed.

    Spark has been all but ruled out since you've replaced almost all the components that generate it. Only thing that would cause it to be spark related now would be a bad ECU or something telling the ECU to pull timing like crazy.

    Fuel has also been mostly ruled out, at least in terms of delivery capability. Both pumps, CF, and fuel filter would all be culprits in fuel delivery so only thing left is injectors clogging or the ECU not sending enough fuel to detonate, meaning a bad reading from your sensors.

    I'm not as experienced in VAG motors as some around here but they're not insanely complex systems, just a bunch of sensors giving input to the ECU which outputs a certain pulse width to injectors to deliver fuel and a certain timing of the spark at the right moment to ignite it. Forgive me if I'm missing something due to inexperience.

    One thing you can try to rule out a dirty/faulty MAF is to unplug the harness connector to it and run the motor. Without input from the MAF the ECU will run off of canned maps instead of dynamic feed from the sensor, if your problem goes away you need to clean or replace the MAF. Even if it isn't the culprit it's a good idea to clean every 30k miles or so anyway.


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    2005.5 A4Q 2.0T 6MT JHM 2+, Autotech internals, CTS front mount, GFB DV+, 034 Street Density mounts + snub, H&R coilovers, B7 Recaros, Phil's V4's, maybe a k04 soon?

  26. #26
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    Sputtering on slight acceleration after driving 30 minutes.

    Also, since you're getting a code for the knock sensors and have all along, that would probably be a good place to start. The ECU is smart and without an expected input from the knock sensors it will scale back fuel and spark to prevent engine predetonation which could throw a rod through your block especially under boost.


    Sent from my iPhone using Audizine mobile app
    2005.5 A4Q 2.0T 6MT JHM 2+, Autotech internals, CTS front mount, GFB DV+, 034 Street Density mounts + snub, H&R coilovers, B7 Recaros, Phil's V4's, maybe a k04 soon?

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    Quote Originally Posted by RakkCity View Post
    Also, since you're getting a code for the knock sensors and have all along, that would probably be a good place to start. The ECU is smart and without an expected input from the knock sensors it will scale back fuel and spark to prevent engine predetonation which could throw a rod through your block especially under boost.


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    Fantastic information Thank you very much. When you say remove the maf and run the motor do you mean drive? 🚗

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Saber7 View Post
    Fantastic information Thank you very much. When you say remove the maf and run the motor do you mean drive?
    Don't remove the MAF just unplug the harness connector. And yes drive the car if your problem doesn't come back then you've found your culprit. Probably not the MAF but it's a very easy thing to rule out and can manifest itself in weird ways since it's the only sensor telling the ECU how much air is going into the motor.


    Sent from my iPhone using Audizine mobile app
    2005.5 A4Q 2.0T 6MT JHM 2+, Autotech internals, CTS front mount, GFB DV+, 034 Street Density mounts + snub, H&R coilovers, B7 Recaros, Phil's V4's, maybe a k04 soon?

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    Quote Originally Posted by RakkCity View Post
    Don't remove the MAF just unplug the harness connector. And yes drive the car if your problem doesn't come back then you've found your culprit. Probably not the MAF but it's a very easy thing to rule out and can manifest itself in weird ways since it's the only sensor telling the ECU how much air is going into the motor.


    Sent from my iPhone using Audizine mobile app
    I unplugged the MAF and it seemed my car has more power initially but the same problem persists. As I approach 2,000 RPMs the car starts to shutter and shake. If I gun it past that then the car loses power every other second like the gas is only flowing every other second.

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