Pro's and Cons of running 19inch wheels vs 20 inch wheels

[alwaysOntheGo]

I would like to hear ppl's opinions on what size wheels ppl prefer between the two?

[MacFady]

Click

IMO, 20's are a cosmetic thing only and don't offer much else except increased costs.

[onlyaudis]

if you get 20's, be sure to bookmark this link

https://www.google.com/webhp?sourcei...pair+directory

[LittleDozer]

20s: higher cost, slower car, rougher ride.

[alwaysOntheGo]

if you get 20's, be sure to bookmark this link

https://www.google.com/webhp?sourcei...pair+directory

lol thanks!

[LeadToRome]

To me 19's just look right, they're in proportion. 20's look too big. But hey that's me.

[MrFunk]

20s will be heavier typically. Even if same weight as a 19 they will require more energy to spin. They also will be more prone to bending with pot holes. You will also experience more vibrations with 20's - thin tires => so you'll feel vibrations more - no tire balances out 100% perfect. Tires will cost more and rims will cost more.

That being said - I run 20's in the summer -

[whiped]

Everyone is pretty much spot on.

I run 20s in the summer, 19s in the winter.

20s subjectively look better, have more NVH and cost slightly more.

FWIW, my 20s are lighter than my 19s not that it really matters.

Ultimately, go with what you like the best. Some love the look of 20s some hate them. It is up to you

[bmoreS4]

20s: higher cost, slower car, rougher ride.

This, and IMO look too big.

[alwaysOntheGo]

thanks everyone, im leaning towards 19's now

[zps123]

if you get 20's, be sure to bookmark this link

https://www.google.com/webhp?sourcei...pair+directory

lmfao so true

[MrFunk]

Everyone is pretty much spot on.

I run 20s in the summer, 19s in the winter.

20s subjectively look better, have more NVH and cost slightly more.

FWIW, my 20s are lighter than my 19s not that it really matters.

Ultimately, go with what you like the best. Some love the look of 20s some hate them. It is up to you

Even if they are lighter they may require more energy to rotate given that weight is over a larger area. My 20's are lighter than OEM 19's as well but they don't feel lighter on the car... when I put my 18's on it feels like I shed 100lbs. Didn't feel that way before when I'd switch out from my OEM 19's (which again are heavier than my 20's) to 18's.

[whiped]

Even if they are lighter they may require more energy to rotate given that weight is over a larger area. My 20's are lighter than OEM 19's as well but they don't feel lighter on the car... when I put my 18's on it feels like I shed 100lbs. Didn't feel that way before when I'd switch out from my OEM 19's (which again are heavier than my 20's) to 18's.

I agree. My car is only slightly a racecar though, so I don't mind compromising some performance for looks.

[MrFunk]

I agree. My car is only slightly a racecar though, so I don't mind compromising some performance for looks.

I'm running 20's also... lol... the car has plenty enough power for it not to be a big deal... most new sports cars are now coming with 20's.

[doug97gxe]

20 > 19

[douglasjboehme]

[will13k7]

Tires for 20's don't have the right load rating for our heavy ass cars, be prepared for more blow outs.

[agent47]

Tires for 20's don't have the right load rating for our heavy ass cars, be prepared for more blow outs.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

dude.. lmao. I have been running on 20" for over 3 yrs straight now. And I have an A6- heavier than the S4. Only had one blowout till now, that too in the dead of the night on a crater like pothole.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

[will13k7]

I'm talking about 20's for a S4 that fit a dropped car, 245/30, 255/30, and two blew out for me, PSS's too. no punctures, sidewall failures. about 50% life left. load ratings are meaningful, some tire shops won't even install tires that don't meet the minimum. I didn't take this seriously either, did so after two blow outs on the freeway not even hitting any hard bumps or potholes around that time. just adding my experience and what I learned, do what you will with this info.

[968Reckless]

I have 20s now and will be getting 19s for winter. Unless you have air ride I wouldn't go with 20s though. They are big and heavy and the ride is a little bumpy due to low pro tires.


Sent from my beeper

[galvestonokie]

i am also considering a change from OEM 20s to B8 19/9/ET33 rotors. for the reasons in this thread. BTW, in 8k miles, i have two catastrophic blowouts with the Conti ContactSport P05 that came on the car. And, both flats came about 80 miles from an Audi dealer, which was the only place i could find 275/30/20 on short notice. and, the tires will be Michelin.

[Fresh.S4]

i went from oem 19s to lightweight 20s and its noticeable enough that i would never consider oem weighted wheels ever again.

[blackfunk]

i went from oem 19s to lightweight 20s and its noticeable enough that i would never consider oem weighted wheels ever again.

Yeah, but that's not a fair comparison. OEM's have to achieve a much higher testing standard vs 'most' after market wheels. That unfortunately requires a heavier wheel that is better able to bend and be reshaped vs simply cracking. I can count on one hand the number of times in my life I've seen a cracked OEM wheel vs the number of times I've seen a cracked after market wheel - high end wheels too.

OEM wheels serve their purpose well though but in terms of weight which was your original point I can tell instantly there's a weight difference when running OEM wheels vs the countless number of after market wheels that I've run over the years.

Shameless plug - https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...Forgestar-CF5V - I have these for sale now LOL

[A4Qwattro]

Yeah, but that's not a fair comparison. OEM's have to achieve a much higher testing standard vs 'most' after market wheels. That unfortunately requires a heavier wheel that is better able to bend and be reshaped vs simply cracking. I can count on one hand the number of times in my life I've seen a cracked OEM wheel vs the number of times I've seen a cracked after market wheel - high end wheels too.

OEM wheels serve their purpose well though but in terms of weight which was your original point I can tell instantly there's a weight difference when running OEM wheels vs the countless number of after market wheels that I've run over the years.

Shameless plug - https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...Forgestar-CF5V - I have these for sale now LOL

I think it has to do with the manufacturing too. OEM wheels are cast and cast wheels have to be beefier/heavier in order to have the same strength as an aftermarket forged wheel. If Audi forged their wheels, the wheels could be lighter with the same strength if not more, but forged wheels cost more to manufacture so it cuts into profit margins.

[SwankPeRFection]

Biggest contributor to most wheel damage is a tire that’s not well suited to protecting the rim. Run a wide tire setup with a good sidewall size and stiffness for your level of driving vs road conditions and you won’t be breaking or bending wheels even if you hit the occasional pothole. Run stretched out tires and small profiles and you’ll increase this issue. It’s one of the main reasons why l can’t stand Michelin PSS tires I had one set and because of its shit ass sidewall design I scratched one wheel and the another pothole completely gouged the sidewall on another tire. It’s ironic how people rave about those tires and they’re on every high end performance car, but they suck in terms of their cross-section size on whatever width you get and they always look stretched out no matter what and their “lip protector” feature for wheels isn’t worth the 12 letters it spells. I got rid of those things years ago when the Indy500 tires first came out and tried them and the width is so much, the sidewall isn’t stupid soft anymore and I can’t hit a pothole and know I don’t have to pull over because I just punctured or even damaged the tire, let alone the wheel. Literally just see dust on the sidewall that brushes or washes away.

So, sorry to go off on a slight tangent there, but get yourself some good meaty tires, which can still be low profile and as it compresses down, it’ll pillow out and protect the edge of the rim as well from the impact. That’s your cushion. In terms of weight, 19” wheel way lighter than factory wheels and you’ll feel it in both braking and acceleration changes. Rotational mass is a thing. One of the reasons why I went with light weight 19’s. The make a big dent in your weight savings per corner and you’ll notice added quickness from a roll as well.

[raceshop147]

IMG_7901.jpg
IMG_7447.jpg
19” bbs




Sent from my iPhone using Audizine Forum

[carguy19]

Biggest contributor to most wheel damage is a tire that’s not well suited to protecting the rim. Run a wide tire setup with a good sidewall size and stiffness for your level of driving vs road conditions and you won’t be breaking or bending wheels even if you hit the occasional pothole. Run stretched out tires and small profiles and you’ll increase this issue. It’s one of the main reasons why l can’t stand Michelin PSS tires I had one set and because of its shit ass sidewall design I scratched one wheel and the another pothole completely gouged the sidewall on another tire. It’s ironic how people rave about those tires and they’re on every high end performance car, but they suck in terms of their cross-section size on whatever width you get and they always look stretched out no matter what and their “lip protector” feature for wheels isn’t worth the 12 letters it spells. I got rid of those things years ago when the Indy500 tires first came out and tried them and the width is so much, the sidewall isn’t stupid soft anymore and I can’t hit a pothole and know I don’t have to pull over because I just punctured or even damaged the tire, let alone the wheel. Literally just see dust on the sidewall that brushes or washes away.

So, sorry to go off on a slight tangent there, but get yourself some good meaty tires, which can still be low profile and as it compresses down, it’ll pillow out and protect the edge of the rim as well from the impact. That’s your cushion. In terms of weight, 19” wheel way lighter than factory wheels and you’ll feel it in both braking and acceleration changes. Rotational mass is a thing. One of the reasons why I went with light weight 19’s. The make a big dent in your weight savings per corner and you’ll notice added quickness from a roll as well.

What brand do you like/recommend for the "meaty" tires ?

[SwankPeRFection]

What brand do you like/recommend for the "meaty" tires ?

I switched to Firehawk Indy500s years ago and find they are the best bang for the buck in terms of traction/durability and width on the rim. In my opinion, they are better than the PSS tires, which I hated and cost way less. I just didn’t think the Michelins were all that and I don’t understand why so many people use them. Hell, stock PSS tires on the newer BMWs cut and chunk their outer tread at even the slightest aggressive or track usage. Honestly, they’re overpriced shit. The Firehawk Indy500 tires have excellent dry traction and work great in the wet as well. I don’t baby my car and I drive very aggressively and they just work for me. Super neutral handling and you can easily feel and control any slip that might happen at the extreme limits. They don’t just get to the limit and give out completely. They just work man, no other way to say it. Even in stock size, there is no stretch on a wider than stock wheel and 265s fit even wider if you needed a bit more contact patch. Coupled with lightweight wheels, the combo works for great off the line response as well as from a roll.