R134a capacity on 2000 ATW, hood sticker missing

[sr20det]

Could someone take a picture or let me know what the AC sticker under the hood says for total capacity of r134a refrigerant? My car is a 2000 1.8t a4 (with a zexel compressor)

Backstory: car has repainted hood without ac sticker. Recharged system with Robinair machine but had multiple capacity listings. Charged 1.5lb, compressor running, fans running, pressures looks okay, but vent temps rise while driving and exhibiting low charge symptoms. Just want to know what the factory specs were for system capacity.

[Audibot]

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=audi+b5+refrigerant+capacity

Literally the 2nd link... http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...Capacity-Chart

Has the below picture:

[sr20det]

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=audi+b5+refrigerant+capacity

Literally the 2nd link... http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...Capacity-Chart

Has the below picture:

Thanks. I saw this chart along with capacity charts showing anywhere from 600g to 750g for the yr/model, so that gives a range from 1.32-1.65lb of refrigerant capacity. That was why I charged at 1.5lb on the robinair. What does colored vs non colored referred to? If the refrigerant has the dye added? I was just curious if the sticker stays 650g or 700g.

I only drew a vacuum for 15min, I may draw a longer vac for 30+min to make sure to get all the moisture, especially since it is so humid this past week, even though the system really wasn't open

[Audibot]

Yeah, you want to draw for at least 30 minutes, if not an hour. If you have been running the car, that's good--the heat will help to vaporize any moisture in the vacuum environment.

I believe that's correct for the dye. Also, depending on how long the system was open, you may want to consider replacing the accumulator.

[Seerlah]

Symptoms you describe correlate to that of high head pressure. This won't allow proper condensing of the refrigerant which is needed for cooling. Commercial HVAC/Refrigeration tech by trade and what it seems like to me. Auto AC is different, but it's the same. Just because suction pressure was spec does not mean head was.

[sr20det]

Symptoms you describe correlate to that of high head pressure. This won't allow proper condensing of the refrigerant which is needed for cooling. Commercial HVAC/Refrigeration tech by trade and what it seems like to me. Auto AC is different, but it's the same. Just because suction pressure was spec does not mean head was.

Thanks for the tip! I am going to throw the machine on it again and check the pressures. At idle the vent temp is about 38-40°f, but when cruising around 2-3k rpm, the vent temp rises to about 45-55°f and if I have the blower on high (even recirculating in the cool car) my vent temp will be about 55-60°f (ambient is 80-90°f)

I recovered 1.38lb and charged at 1.5lb, I am going to also monitor the AC compressor and pressure switches with the vagcom. Thanks for your pointers!

[Seerlah]

Check your head pressure. You want to be roughly 15 degrees above ambient temp when it is running. Once again, this is standard apps. Auto may differ.