Pressure drop between turbo and throttle valve

[matt_12]

Okay so this winter my cars headgasket blew, long story short I ended up getting the head rebuilt and ported and polished, did the gates kevlar timing belt and all timing components. The car has been running awesome but recently its been dying out on me when I push the clutch in to stop. It will also idle really rough when i first start it and then smooth out and it has no problems until the rpms drop from pushing the clutch in to stop at like a stop sign. I thought maybe the throttle body was bad but I don't want to just replace stuff without actually knowing what I need. Heres the codes im throwing.


17526 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor Heating; B1 S2: Open Circuit
P1118 - 35-00 - -
17522 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
P1114 - 35-00 - Please Register/Activate
17705 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
P1297 - 35-10 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent
16825 - EVAP Emission Control Sys: Incorrect Flow
P0441 - 35-00 - -
18010 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
P1602 - 35-10 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent
16514 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
P0130 - 35-00 - Please Register/Activate

[kruftindustries]

If you have a turbo you probably have a wideband o2 sensor, the ME7 uses wideband to adjust idle fueling. Most of your codes are related to your o2 sensor. I got my last one from amazon, $80 but arrived the next day and sorted out some issues for me.

- Next up is the MAF sensor, that is very important for idle.

And finally

- Vaccum leaks, a spot that is easy to catch is the rubber gromet that goes to your brake booster.

What is your engine code? (You posted in the B5 A4 thread so I'm making some assumptions here.)

[matt_12]

Engine code is AWM. The MAF is good. I have the rear o2 sensor tuned out but I took the tune out of the car and put the stock ecu in until i break the new clutch in but its ran fine forever without the o2 sensor in so i didnt think that was it but tomorrow ill throw the o2 sensor back in and see if that sorts it out.

[kruftindustries]

If it's only your rear o2 sensor then nevermind what I said about o2 earlier, you have a leak somewhere.

I would double check your check valves, making sure the arrows on them point towards the intake manifold, all your evap equipment is actually there, etc..

Another rare one but it happens, make sure the intercooler hasn't opened up its heart to you

[matt_12]

okay so after work today while the car wasnt running i played around with the rubber grommet that goes to the brake booster and it made a hissing sound so im assuming thats my problem

[redline380]

Hissing sound is good, that means it is holding vacuum

[Wrath And Tears]

Have you done a throttle body alignment?

[matt_12]

Can i without vagcom?

[matt_12]

Hissing sound is good, that means it is holding vacuum

But should it be hissing if i literally just move it around a little bit? i also tried moving it around while the car was idleing but it didnt seem to bog out or anything. just so sick of the car dying out at stop signs lol

[redline380]

But should it be hissing if i literally just move it around a little bit?

yes

[matt_12]

Have you done a throttle body alignment?

Ive been hearing that you cant align the throttle body without Vagcom...

[matt_12]

yes

Could my CPS have anything to do with it? It kinda makes a funny noise when the car runs almost like a grinding sound but not anything crazy

[matt_12]

Still haven't figured this out..


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