Knuckle install

[2010A6]

(TL;DR I need help installing steering knuckles on a money pinch)

I am on a really tight budget lately and just got the maintenance work quote from Audi at my 85K.The list following is a set of parts the tech says require replacing before he can do me an alignment.

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Front left:
Steering knuckle
Tie Rod

Front right:
Steering knuckle
Forward upper control arm
Rearward upper control arm
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$4500 including Audi labor rates..
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Can the knuckles be self installed?

I've already done both of the control arm replacements myself and now need to replace the knuckles. My novice DIY knowledge leads me to ask you guys if this is a feasible task and possibly what specialty tools I may need and torque specs. I'm looking to create a how to step by step in the end.

Thanks all for the help

[95blkmax]

Wow that is a ridiculous amount of $ for that... I have not had to do it on my car just yet *knock on wood* BUT, in OTHER German cars that I have done this on just know that you will need...
- An axle nut socket to remove the nut holding the axle in place (axle shouldn't have to come out of the transmission, but will need to come out the back of the knuckle)
- tie rod separator (looks like a big tuning fork) in case the lower balljoints do not want to budge)... keep in mind that IF you have to use the separator it could damage the balljoint in the process depending on how stuck-on it is
- Obviously the brake caliper and rotor will have to come out as well

Just find out what the TQ spec is on the suspension parts if you are picky (you surely want to get the exact spec on the axle nut)

It's a pretty straight forward job IMO. It really all depends on how stuck-on the parts are which can make it an smooth afternoon's work or a weekend cusword-creating endeavor lol.

EDIT- Easy way to remove the axle nut of you dont have an impact gun... Remove wheel, rest the car on jackstands, have a buddy/ wife step on the brake pedal as hard as they can while you pull/ push/ jump on the end of your 3' braker bar (don't be afraid to use a cheater metal pipe over the breaker bar to add leverage!) and knock that sumbish loose

[occhis]

I question why both knuckles went bad at only 85k? A second opinion may be in order.

[2010A6]

I question why both knuckles went bad at only 85k? A second opinion may be in order.

They went bad because the mechanic used a torch and grind wheel to get the seized pinch bolt for the upper control arms. On both sides too... :/


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[2010A6]

Wow that is a ridiculous amount of $ for that... I have not had to do it on my car just yet *knock on wood* BUT, in OTHER German cars that I have done this on just know that you will need...
- An axle nut socket to remove the nut holding the axle in place (axle shouldn't have to come out of the transmission, but will need to come out the back of the knuckle)
- tie rod separator (looks like a big tuning fork) in case the lower balljoints do not want to budge)... keep in mind that IF you have to use the separator it could damage the balljoint in the process depending on how stuck-on it is
- Obviously the brake caliper and rotor will have to come out as well

Just find out what the TQ spec is on the suspension parts if you are picky (you surely want to get the exact spec on the axle nut)

It's a pretty straight forward job IMO. It really all depends on how stuck-on the parts are which can make it an smooth afternoon's work or a weekend cusword-creating endeavor lol.

EDIT- Easy way to remove the axle nut of you dont have an impact gun... Remove wheel, rest the car on jackstands, have a buddy/ wife step on the brake pedal as hard as they can while you pull/ push/ jump on the end of your 3' braker bar (don't be afraid to use a cheater metal pipe over the breaker bar to add leverage!) and knock that sumbish loose

Lmao that was a great read for sure I don't know how I missed the notification.

I've talked it over with the shop and the gave me a discounted rate to install all broken bits. I'm not totally satisfied that I got justice but then again I'll choose to never go back there. I think the price I'm paying for now is a get-out-of-headache-free card and will be worth it just to have the nightmare over.

Edit: I thank you though for the info though. I do still appreciate knowing how my car works and all the parts involved. Cheers for that :)


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[95blkmax]

any time! Let us know the outcome. And not having to deal with the headache is worth it's weight in gold some times lol