Tune your car they said....JHM tune - Issues :(

**DanKing** · 07-23-2016 01:20 AM

So I just went to flash my car (2.0t FWD Manual) with JHM tune - Stage 1 - 91 Octane tune that I purchased yesterday. My buddy has a jhm flashing cable and has flashed serval local Audiziners cars and his own car before with no issues. However this time we ran into a couple of issues during the flashing process to which led to some worry. All the steps to setup the car (battery charger connected) and laptop were setup correctly, everything seemed to be working accordingly (drivers, vpn, logging into the jhm browser ...all good )

The software started to flash to the car and everything seemed to go smoothly (fan kicked on etc ) ....UNTIL the software reached 100% . It stuck on step 6 of 7 at 100% and threw the following error AFTER weirdly requesting me to switch the ignition OFF then back ON:

After hitting retry serval times, nothing happened. So the only option was to hit cancel. Upon hitting cancel I was then presented with the successful burn page (step 7 of 7):

Proceeded with the instructions to switch the car off and on multiple times with a 30 second interval between them etc, and hoped that error didn't screw anything up . Also received the burn notification email.

Then I went to drive the car.... Once the car builds up boost past 11ish PSI it bangs and pops and God knows... The car violently jolts to the beat of the bangs and pops, thus making me extremely worried. As I nervously drove home I couldnt get past around half throttle without the jolting and bangs occuring. I took the following terrible videos to show what is occuring :

(Windows are closed in this video so hard to hear, issue occurs around 11psi from the p3 gauage I have installed)

Then went to reflash the tune, and the exact errors and results occurred.

Im extremely anal about my car so I'm ontop of everything , and the car is in perfect condition, with zero issues prior to the tune. The only other engine modification I have is an APR carbonio intake and a jHM test pipe with no rear mufflers also. Additionally, I ran the car through VAGcom before tuning, zero codes/faults, ran VAGcom again after the tune, displayed all the normal JHM info within the VCDS, but still no fault codes or CELs or anything :-(

I will call JHM Monday regarding this, from what people have said they should be more than helpful...but since it's the weekend, I thought I'd post this here to see if anyone has experienced this issue or has any insight on this, becuase I am completely freaking out about my baby :(

Sorry for long post and thanks in advance.

**LINDW4LL** · 07-23-2016 01:52 AM

Sorry to hear you're having issues! It's hard to tell since you let off quickly (and I don't blame you), but it sounds like it's misfiring. Old plugs and coil packs commonly show their weakness when asked to produce more power. It could also be fuel related, although much less likely.

The message while flashing is odd, but the good news is that there is, to my knowledge, no such thing as a "partially successful" flash. A failed flash will result in a non-running car, or the new file not being written; it does not sound like either of those are the case. It is definitely still a good idea to verify with JHM that there's nothing problematic here.

**aluthman** · 07-23-2016 04:39 AM

^This. I've had failed flashes before and the car won't start. The fans just run full speed when you turn the key. Misfires won't always throw a code. My new B7 did a similar banging at WOT the other day and the entire car shook. It was either misfires or a low fuel pressure condition resulting in hard fuel cuts to the engine. Check plugs and coils and log high and low side fuel pressures.

**TagEldinAhmed** · 07-23-2016 06:58 AM

Good luck dude, hope it's just the spark plugs or a coil pack and nothing serious.

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**axnjaksn** · 07-23-2016 08:09 AM

Originally Posted by LINDW4LL

Sorry to hear you're having issues! It's hard to tell since you let off quickly (and I don't blame you), but it sounds like it's misfiring. Old plugs and coil packs commonly show their weakness when asked to produce more power. It could also be fuel related, although much less likely.

The message while flashing is odd, but the good news is that there is, to my knowledge, no such thing as a "partially successful" flash. A failed flash will result in a non-running car, or the new file not being written; it does not sound like either of those are the case. It is definitely still a good idea to verify with JHM that there's nothing problematic here.

I come from the B5 zone, when we tune we have to get colder plugs and gap them down.... And none of the tuners mention it, but it's always the first step in solving misfires in higher rpm, higher boost levels, is this a "thing" with the b7 2.0t?? If not then what block can he measure to check fuel pressures via vcds??

**aluthman** · 07-23-2016 08:12 AM

Originally Posted by axnjaksn

I come from the B5 zone, when we tune we have to get colder plugs and gap them down.... And none of the tuners mention it, but it's always the first step in solving misfires in higher rpm, higher boost levels, is this a "thing" with the b7 2.0t?? If not then what block can he measure to check fuel pressures via vcds??

Same thing applies to the B7. Log blocks 231 and 232 IIRC to log high and low side fuel pressure.

**axnjaksn** · 07-23-2016 08:52 AM

Thanks Adam, this is good to know, if it's similar to B5 plugs, is there a plug and gap recommended for him to try?? On another note how often do you guys replace fuel filters?? I would say he is probably due for one and if his isn't clogged it's probably a good time to replace it anyways

**DanKing** · 07-23-2016 09:16 AM

Originally Posted by LINDW4LL

Sorry to hear you're having issues! It's hard to tell since you let off quickly (and I don't blame you), but it sounds like it's misfiring. Old plugs and coil packs commonly show their weakness when asked to produce more power. It could also be fuel related, although much less likely.

The message while flashing is odd, but the good news is that there is, to my knowledge, no such thing as a "partially successful" flash. A failed flash will result in a non-running car, or the new file not being written; it does not sound like either of those are the case. It is definitely still a good idea to verify with JHM that there's nothing problematic here.

Thanks for all the great feed back, my initial thought was a misfire, but from all the other cars I have had that have misfires, it some what unnoticeable, but my car it's extremely violate.

Originally Posted by aluthman

^This. I've had failed flashes before and the car won't start. The fans just run full speed when you turn the key. Misfires won't always throw a code. My new B7 did a similar banging at WOT the other day and the entire car shook. It was either misfires or a low fuel pressure condition resulting in hard fuel cuts to the engine. Check plugs and coils and log high and low side fuel pressures.

Is there a way to "check" the coils and plugs or just replace them. Or simply just replace them all (which I have not done since Ive have the car ) I was under the impression if i had a missfire the car would throw a cel or a least and board error in vag ?

Originally Posted by axnjaksn

Thanks Adam, this is good to know, if it's similar to B5 plugs, is there a plug and gap recommended for him to try?? On another note how often do you guys replace fuel filters?? I would say he is probably due for one and if his isn't clogged it's probably a good time to replace it anyways

The pervious owned told me they have replaced the fuel filter, but to be fair, you can't trust anyone. Fuel filter, coils and plugs shall be order today just for good measure.

Any body have a good cheap spot for the red coil and plug combo dealio. And what plugs do you recommend since I'm now "tuned" maybe.

Also good to note that I forgot to mention, that I do have the GFB DV.

I really hope it's not more than this :-/

**LINDW4LL** · 07-23-2016 09:19 AM

If you still have VCDS access, you can check out measuring blocks 014 015 and 016 which count your total misfires and by cylinder, too. I'd think that's your issue though.

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**seal66** · 07-23-2016 09:27 AM

As aluthman and lindwall said log blocks 014,015,016 and also 103,230,231. Do both an idle and pull till it starts to crackle again. See if you can have someone watch the fuel pressure.

You can either post here or send the logs to me.

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**DanKing** · 07-23-2016 09:42 AM

Originally Posted by LINDW4LL

If you still have VCDS access, you can check out measuring blocks 014 015 and 016 which count your total misfires and by cylinder, too. I'd think that's your issue though.

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Originally Posted by seal66

As aluthman and lindwall said log blocks 014,015,016 and also 103,230,231. Do both an idle and pull till it starts to crackle again. See if you can have someone watch the fuel pressure.

You can either post here or send the logs to me.

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Awesome I will have access to a VCDS later I hope so I will post up logs thanks guys.

Just a thought , I didn't purchase the STOCK file (everyone told me not to since I wouldnt need it) however I see the option to flash the stock file (and also the 93 octane file) on the JHM browser, could I flash the stock file anyway since I didn't purchase, Then in theory .... My issue should go away ? Obviously don't mind paying JHM the extra $100 for the stock file after the fact

Again that's for the support, freaking out a little less now.

**LINDW4LL** · 07-23-2016 09:47 AM

I'm skeptical that JHM would charge you to flash your stock file back on. That would be a massive rape on their part, so I hope that isn't the case.

But yes, that should resolve your issue.

**DanKing** · 07-23-2016 10:55 AM

Originally Posted by LINDW4LL

I'm skeptical that JHM would charge you to flash your stock file back on. That would be a massive rape on their part, so I hope that isn't the case.

But yes, that should resolve your issue.

They used to give you the stock file for free so you can switch between the tune and stock, now there is 100$ fee for that feature. But maybe the charge is there if you want both at the same time ?

**rongeur** · 07-23-2016 11:17 AM

Your first move should be to call JHM or PM Jake, I have had luck even getting hold of them on the weekend via AZ for quick questions.

I recommend unplugging the fan harness during the flash, there is no need for it and it unnecessarily drains battery and pulls load even when on a trickle charger. I also agree that a failed flash would render the car immobile and not start. Check for codes, replace spark plugs, swap around coil packs to isolate single bad one if codes support.

As with anything, approach this systematically working from simple to more complex.

I am almost positive JHM will not charge you to flash back to stock for diagnostic purposes, just give them a call Monday, they are very reasonable people and want you to be happy with their product.

**DanKing** · 07-23-2016 02:03 PM

Originally Posted by rongeur

Your first move should be to call JHM or PM Jake, I have had luck even getting hold of them on the weekend via AZ for quick questions.

I recommend unplugging the fan harness during the flash, there is no need for it and it unnecessarily drains battery and pulls load even when on a trickle charger. I also agree that a failed flash would render the car immobile and not start. Check for codes, replace spark plugs, swap around coil packs to isolate single bad one if codes support.

As with anything, approach this systematically working from simple to more complex.

I am almost positive JHM will not charge you to flash back to stock for diagnostic purposes, just give them a call Monday, they are very reasonable people and want you to be happy with their product.

Yeah they seems like nice fellas , I called them serval times regarding getting tuned :-)

I wanted to replace my coil packs and plugs anyway so I shall, but there are zero codes which I thought was weird , making trouble shooting hard. I do however have two spare coil packs but no codes to know which ones the switch out :-/

**RakkCity** · 07-23-2016 02:05 PM

Originally Posted by DanKing

They used to give you the stock file for free so you can switch between the tune and stock, now there is 100$ fee for that feature. But maybe the charge is there if you want both at the same time ?

If my understanding is correct, you can flash back to stock for free. The $100 extra charge is for program switching through the cruise control stalk, allowing you to go between tuned and stock on the fly.

**DanKing** · 07-23-2016 02:20 PM

Originally Posted by RakkCity

If my understanding is correct, you can flash back to stock for free. The $100 extra charge is for program switching through the cruise control stalk, allowing you to go between tuned and stock on the fly.

Thanks for the info, That make sense, so for the time being I might flash back to the stock until I order and receive shipment of the coils/plugs and filter.

I hope to god that the issue does not occur then :-/

**2pointOh** · 07-23-2016 02:32 PM

Jake recommends the Bosch tri-electrodes for plugs. They have them on their site. You could pull your coils and plugs out and visibly look at how gunked up they are to sort of see if that could be the issue. Not definite but gives you something to check.

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**DanKing** · 07-23-2016 03:46 PM

Originally Posted by 2pointOh

Jake recommends the Bosch tri-electrodes for plugs. They have them on their site. You could pull your coils and plugs out and visibly look at how gunked up they are to sort of see if that could be the issue. Not definite but gives you something to check.

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There is two tri-electrodes plugs on there site one at hear range 5 and the other at 6, which ones would you recommend. They are also the cheapest ???

Are this the best plugs to run for a tuned car ?

**vce1232000** · 07-23-2016 03:49 PM

The colder plug is 5. most tunes always

1 heat range colder on tuned

cars

**2pointOh** · 07-23-2016 03:51 PM

Originally Posted by DanKing

There is two tri-electrodes plugs on there site one at hear range 5 and the other at 6, which ones would you recommend. They are also the cheapest ???

Are this the best plugs to run for a tuned car ?

Originally Posted by vce1232000

The colder plug is 5. most tunes always

1 heat range colder on tuned

cars

This. And jake recommends them so I'd say they're pretty damn good. I have them haha

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**Sanjman** · 07-23-2016 04:52 PM

It sounds very similar to my car when the G28 sensor went bad. It didn't throw a code at first so I thought it was initially a fuel cuts but it eventually gave me a code and replaced it quickly.

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php?t=679172

Let me also add shit happens so often at the same time of another mod and it just baffles us. I'd definitely followup with JHM to ensure to tune is set up appropriately tho

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**Axis** · 07-23-2016 05:03 PM

Originally Posted by DanKing

There is two tri-electrodes plugs on there site one at hear range 5 and the other at 6, which ones would you recommend. They are also the cheapest ???

Are this the best plugs to run for a tuned car ?

FR5-DTC

**onedumslack** · 07-23-2016 05:37 PM

They're the cheaper plug because they are copper. So you should change them more often than the iridium plugs.

**i3oricua** · 07-23-2016 06:44 PM

@Danking. I see you're in Cali. NorCal? If so, I have plugs and coil packs that we could swap in to test the misfires out. PM and lets talk. If you have them on order I guess it won't matter too much except it gives you a headstart. Let me know.

**DanKing** · 07-23-2016 10:11 PM

Originally Posted by Axis

FR5-DTC

Thank you sir,

Originally Posted by Sanjman

It sounds very similar to my car when the G28 sensor went bad. It didn't throw a code at first so I thought it was initially a fuel cuts but it eventually gave me a code and replaced it quickly.

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php?t=679172

Let me also add shit happens so often at the same time of another mod and it just baffles us. I'd definitely followup with JHM to ensure to tune is set up appropriately tho

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Bad g28 sensor would cause the car to viloently jolt at higher rpm ?

Originally Posted by onedumslack

They're the cheaper plug because they are copper. So you should change them more often than the iridium plugs.

Gotcha makes sense :-)

Originally Posted by i3oricua

@Danking. I see you're in Cali. NorCal? If so, I have plugs and coil packs that we could swap in to test the misfires out. PM and lets talk. If you have them on order I guess it won't matter too much except it gives you a headstart. Let me know.

Wish your were in socal brother ! Appricate the support tho !

**yeoj112689** · 07-24-2016 12:32 AM

Hey as others stated, change the plugs if older and make sure the gap is set correctly. I have the SAME EXACT issues when I flashed, new plugs fixed it completely. Good luck and enjoy that power :D

Quick question, did your check engine light flash after the pop?

**DanKing** · 07-24-2016 12:36 AM

Originally Posted by yeoj112689

Hey as others stated, change the plugs if older and make sure the gap is set correctly. I have the SAME EXACT issues when I flashed, new plugs fixed it completely. Good luck and enjoy that power :D

Quick question, did your check engine light flash after the pop?

No check engine light at all...that is what I thought was weird, surely a misfire would throw a check engine light or something on vagcom, I had zero faults what's so ever.

Also what did you set your gap to ? The ones @Axis and other audizine members recommend above have a non adjustable gap I believe, these ones :

https://www.ecstuning.com/ES2537061/

**yeoj112689** · 07-24-2016 12:49 AM

Originally Posted by DanKing

No check engine light at all...that is what I thought was weird, surely a misfire would throw a check engine light or something on vagcom, I had zero faults what's so ever.

Also what did you set your gap to ? The ones @Axis and other audizine members recommend above have a non adjustable gap I believe, these ones :

https://www.ecstuning.com/ES2537061/

Well mine didn't pop a CEL quickly, I pushed it to do so just to make sure that was what was happening because I knew my plugs were bad lol. Not the smartest but it worked.

Anyway I am running NGK v-power plugs, I do not remember the model number but it is one step cooler than the stock. I gapped them to .030 because there is a huge debate if .028 or .032 is better so I went middle ground and it works fine.

They cost a bit more than autolite or other comparable brand but they are worth it for such an essential part.

PS. all plugs are adjustable because all you're really doing is bending the prong, that being said those look hard to adjust ha.
PPS. Those plugs look insane. Maybe I stuck my foot in my mouth. It depends if you can bend the prongs back to increase the gap or vice versa.

**dalmation53** · 07-24-2016 12:58 AM

You need colder plugs and if the coils are weak you need to get new ones so they can handle thr power. Easy fix.

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**yeoj112689** · 07-24-2016 01:01 AM

Originally Posted by dalmation53

You need colder plugs and if the coils are weak you need to get new ones so they can handle thr power. Easy fix.

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I would start with the plugs. Cheaper ;)

**dalmation53** · 07-24-2016 01:02 AM

Originally Posted by yeoj112689

I would start with the plugs. Cheaper ;)

Yeah but he said he hasn't changed the coils so why not replace everything and then not wonder why you didn't do that in the first place.

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**yeoj112689** · 07-24-2016 01:04 AM

Originally Posted by dalmation53

Yeah but he said he hasn't changed the coils so why not replace everything and then not wonder why you didn't do that in the first place.

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I suppose being proactive isn't a bad idea.. but his call.. this is being said from someone who did the 1.8t oil pump conversion just in case my 2.0t oil pump was shot lol. Proactive isn't a bad idea but it depends on his current budget I suppose.

**dalmation53** · 07-24-2016 01:05 AM

Originally Posted by yeoj112689

I suppose being proactive isn't a bad idea.. but his call.. this is being said from someone who did the 1.8t oil pump conversion just in case my 2.0t oil pump was shot lol. Proactive isn't a bad idea but it depends on his current budget I suppose.

He mods his car and he said he was anal about it. If he doesn't have $125 for coils and plugs he needs a civic. But that's not the point.

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**yeoj112689** · 07-24-2016 01:10 AM

Originally Posted by dalmation53

He mods his car and he said he was anal about it. If he doesn't have $125 for coils and plugs he needs a civic. But that's not the point.

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Lol solid point!

Hey since you're the only person online go look at my part number request! lol

**i3oricua** · 07-24-2016 10:03 AM

Originally Posted by yeoj112689

Well mine didn't pop a CEL quickly, I pushed it to do so just to make sure that was what was happening because I knew my plugs were bad lol. Not the smartest but it worked.

Anyway I am running NGK v-power plugs, I do not remember the model number but it is one step cooler than the stock. I gapped them to .030 because there is a huge debate if .028 or .032 is better so I went middle ground and it works fine.

They cost a bit more than autolite or other comparable brand but they are worth it for such an essential part.

PS. all plugs are adjustable because all you're really doing is bending the prong, that being said those look hard to adjust ha.
PPS. Those plugs look insane. Maybe I stuck my foot in my mouth. It depends if you can bend the prongs back to increase the gap or vice versa.

These?

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**RakkCity** · 07-24-2016 01:07 PM

Originally Posted by i3oricua

These?

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These are the plugs I went with. Haven't tuned yet but hoping to do so this coming week. Stage 2+ 91 octane

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**rongeur** · 07-24-2016 02:23 PM

Originally Posted by i3oricua

These?

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I ran those every 10k when apr 2+, worked great, never issue and cheap too

**DanKing** · 07-24-2016 04:34 PM

Originally Posted by dalmation53

He mods his car and he said he was anal about it. If he doesn't have $125 for coils and plugs he needs a civic. But that's not the point.

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Order coils, plugs and other bits and bobs . The plugs I went with where the bosch FR5DTC since they were recommend by others in this thread and I believe they are a step cooler also.

Are the above NGK plugs better than these bosch FR5DTC? Not bothered about wrenching them out more often if they don't last as long, but I want whatever is best yano :)