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  1. #1
    Established Member Two Rings Corners4kids's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 11 2016
    AZ Member #
    373128
    My Garage
    2019 Tiguan SEL Prem (wife)
    Location
    Centennial, CO

    B8 S5 Power Steering Flush DIY

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    Tools needed:

    -T-30 Torx head and small ratchet and/or 90 degree driver
    -Hose. I used a 6' clear hose from the Depot. 7/8 outer diameter and 5/8 inner. 5/8 inner is key.
    -Milk jug and something to keep it upright (used a homer bucket)
    -Needle nose pliers for the hose clamp
    -Rags and such (also used an old t shirt to cover underneath the res and hoses)
    -2 liters of proper fluid (green 11S)
    -Small cone cork, golf tee or something to plug the hole where the return hose goes on the bottom of the res
    -Small, clean funnel

    The power steering res tank is on the drivers side. It's black with a little gray cap (actually has a steering wheel icon on it).

    I removed the screw that tightens the bracket that holds the power steering reservoir. Then I removed the entire bracket to give me more room to wiggle it around so I could get a good grip on the clamp. It is a pain to grip.

    On the bottom of the res tank, there are two hoses held on by clamps. The large one feeds fluid to the system; the small one is the return hose (this is the hose you will remove). Use a pair of needle nose pliers to get the clamp loose and slide it about 3" down the return hose so it's not holding it on anymore.

    Then I fed the 6' hose into the engine bay (before pulling the return hose off). To do this, I removed my driver-side fog light cover and fed the hose in from the front just beside the fog light and just above that little blue plastic ball. I put one end of hose into my milk jug and got the end in the engine bay close to the fluid res. Now to get messy or not.

    I pulled the little hose off and immediately stuck the clear hose I bought onto the nipple on the bottom of the res tank and allowed it to drain (a surprisingly large amount will flow out). It does not slide onto the nipple, but if you hold there, it will all drain into the clear hose. I kept the return hose as close to upright as I could while the res drained. I did spill some, but thats why I stuffed an old shirt below where I was working inside the engine bay. Once the res was empty, I fit the return hose INSIDE the clear hose I bought (5/8 inner is the perfect size). Onto the flush now.

    Fill the reservoir tank with Audi/VW Power Steering Fluid part: G 004 000 M2. You can use other brands I guess (make sure it's 11S) , but I had some credit to spend at the dealer. $28 per liter. Buy two.

    Make sure the clear hose isn't going to fall out of your jug. Your car's pump will expel this stuff rapidly. Now that the tank is full, start your car. Let it idle no more than 3 seconds. Turn it off. Refill the tank, run car for 3 seconds, stop. I did this three times. After the third time the clear hose was beginning to get brand new, bright green fluid in it from the return line. It sucks fluid into the pump faster than you can pour it in. Hence the start/stop approach. Flush complete.

    *if you hear you steering pump whining while doing this, turn your car off immediately. Air is in the line. Pumps do not enjoy this. Add more fluid and repeat.

    Lift, wiggle and do what you can to empty the clear hose while it's still attached to the return line. Then remove the clear hose (try not to let the return line flop or drop as its full of fluid at this point). Now you need to get the return hose back on. I pulled the plug from the nipple and somehow managed to hold it closed with my finger tip while I got ready to shove the return line back on. Once the line is on, get the pliers and replace the clamp to keep the line on. I spilled a little doing this; you will too. Glad I had the shirt under the res.

    Fill your res again properly and start the car. Turn the wheel side to side all the way to opposite lock a few times to ensure you have all the air out of the system and fluid where it needs to be. Check for leaks, top off res if needed and clean up.

    Then go tell your wife you saved $250+ by being crafty. Use her goodwill as you see fit.

    Takes about an hour. My car was at 50k and the fluid was dark brown. I'll likely do this every 25k from now on.
    Last edited by Corners4kids; 03-31-2017 at 02:15 PM.

  2. #2
    Established Member Two Rings Crusader105's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 22 2014
    AZ Member #
    266801
    My Garage
    2010 Subaru Forester XT, 2005 G35 Coupe, 2006, 2015 WRX STI Kawasaki 500R, 1986 RX-7
    Location
    Elora, ON

    While a appreciate the effort put into creating your DIY, I do find it far easier to leave everything connected and simply use my engine oil extractor to change the PS oil.

    I do this every couple of oil changes..... Vacuum out the reservoir, fill, run the engine. Repeat 2 or 3 times.

    I believe you're basically getting most of the old product out and replacing it with fresh oil. It's not a huge oil system anyway.

    Never had a PS pump or rack failure doing this, and there's no risk of causing a leak since nothing's been removed.

    To each his own, this is just my $.02 CDN.
    2010 A5 Prestige in Meteor Grey Pearl/S Line/Tech Pkg/M6/CR-15 Front Strut Brace

  3. #3
    Established Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Mar 05 2016
    AZ Member #
    369790
    Location
    IN

    Quote Originally Posted by Crusader105 View Post
    While a appreciate the effort put into creating your DIY, I do find it far easier to leave everything connected and simply use my engine oil extractor to change the PS oil.

    I do this every couple of oil changes..... Vacuum out the reservoir, fill, run the engine. Repeat 2 or 3 times.

    I believe you're basically getting most of the old product out and replacing it with fresh oil. It's not a huge oil system anyway.

    Never had a PS pump or rack failure doing this, and there's no risk of causing a leak since nothing's been removed.

    To each his own, this is just my $.02 CDN.

    you also reduce the risk of introducing air in to the system also by just removing whats in the res tank filling starting and repeat a few times.
    2013 S5 estoril blue

  4. #4
    Veteran Member Four Rings JamesRS5's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 27 2014
    AZ Member #
    149899
    Location
    Dubai

    If you've fully drained the system then I'd recommend turning the wheel lock to lock a few times with the engine off to get the majority of air out of the system before you start the engine.
    You can make this easier by putting plastic bags under the front wheels to make turning much less effort.

  5. #5
    Senior Member Four Rings
    Join Date
    May 20 2015
    AZ Member #
    333378
    My Garage
    Audi S5 Deep Sea Blue Pearl
    Location
    PA

    Quote Originally Posted by pr1malr8ge View Post
    you also reduce the risk of introducing air in to the system also by just removing whats in the res tank filling starting and repeat a few times.
    This is what I'm going to try possibly. Plus I'm in a condo complex and don't want to accidentally spill all over outside.

    I did this with my B5 S4 in the past with a turkey baster. Worked awesome and got it clean after a few refills and some wheel turning. It seems like it might take a little longer with the S5 since you can only syphon so much out from the top how the res tank is designed. Only very little fluid is at the top that can be seen, unless that cap pops off?


    Sent from my iPhone using Audizine mobile app

  6. #6
    Senior Member Two Rings Tomieg's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 20 2016
    AZ Member #
    378934
    Location
    SoCal

    Just did this today. It wasn't too difficult. Pretty straight forward once you the get pinch clamp off. That sucker was on there real good and it doesn't help that there's such little wiggle room in the engine bay.

    What a night and day difference! I used about 1.5 liters of CHF 11S @ $25/ liter...took about 1 full liter to fully flush the system.

    -Tom

  7. #7
    Veteran Member Four Rings pezgoon's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 25 2016
    AZ Member #
    377164
    Location
    new hampshire

    B8 S5 Power Steering Flush DIY

    Just as a heads up to everyone, the pentosin chf 202s is actually the newer revision of the 11s and is the factory fill for Vw/Audi, it's also only 17$ rather than the 28$ and is regularly stocked at all Advance Auto Parts (many others can order it but advanced always seems to have it in stock)

    Here is some further info (you can go under the links to read the technical data if you'd like but essentially the 202 is slightly thicker so it thins out less when hot)

    http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=381001

    Here's pentosin's "fluid guide"



    As seen in the above picture, they are both mixable and interchangeable, so you don't have to worry about which one you've got in there or what it was originally filled with, but since this is the b8 section, it was filled with 202

    Sent from my iPhone using Audizine
    Eric

    2005.5 6mt A4 2.0 94k miles
    2010 Q5 3.2L 6at 160k miles

  8. #8
    Established Member Two Rings Corners4kids's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 11 2016
    AZ Member #
    373128
    My Garage
    2019 Tiguan SEL Prem (wife)
    Location
    Centennial, CO

    B8 S5 Power Steering Flush DIY

    ^ Heck yes. Thanks for posting this and updating us on fluid choices. Next flush I do will be with the 202.

  9. #9
    Active Member One Ring
    Join Date
    Aug 14 2022
    AZ Member #
    784108
    Location
    Ohio

    Quote Originally Posted by Crusader105 View Post
    While a appreciate the effort put into creating your DIY, I do find it far easier to leave everything connected and simply use my engine oil extractor to change the PS oil.

    I do this every couple of oil changes..... Vacuum out the reservoir, fill, run the engine. Repeat 2 or 3 times.

    I believe you're basically getting most of the old product out and replacing it with fresh oil. It's not a huge oil system anyway.

    Never had a PS pump or rack failure doing this, and there's no risk of causing a leak since nothing's been removed.

    To each his own, this is just my $.02 CDN.
    Just curious, how do you vacuum out the reservoir when there's a gravel shield about 1/4" below the top of fluid level? This is what I'm running into on my B8. Is there a way to remove this filter?

  10. #10
    Established Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Jan 09 2008
    AZ Member #
    23994
    Location
    SF Bay Area

    I just removed the filter... I was trying to pry it out, and ended up cracking parts of the top off, then I could see where to pry out the whole thing.

    https://imgur.com/qoL5emV

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