Fueling issue, injector constant?

[kruftindustries]

Hello, I'm having some trouble making proper power in the 1.8t AWM.

I'm using eurodyne to tune, I've smoothed the throttle pedal and done a few other things here and there but as I tinker, test and measure I'm finding the more boost I get into, the lower my AFR's are getting, the car is running a tad rich at idle (sounds like my old honda civic to be honest, gurgling in the exhaust pipe slightly and on decel) and running a tad, well more than a tad rich on my last offramp run. Don't get me wrong, I'd rather be washing my cylinder walls than stretching out my pretty ARP head bolts but what do I need to do here?

log is of idle, rolling start from first to 4th WOT.

Here is the log: Log

At first I was only looking at the EGT shown in measuring blocks and assumed my fuel pump was on its way out though now I'm leaning towards my fuel pressure regulator. 02 sensor was replaced about 300mi before this log. another note, not sure if it's been hot out or what but 5deg timing pull in this log is the most I've ever seen out of this setup.

I'm running:

Bosch 550cc injectors
Frankenturbo f21l
IE 81.5mm 8.5:1 pistons
scat h-beam rods
Stock fueling system

93 octane no ethanol

[Wrath And Tears]

Sounds like you need to get a lower bar FPR. With a set up like that most off the shelf tunes would require a 3bar or similar FPR due to having larger injectors. Since you upgraded to the 550cc injectors, they are spraying close to twice as much as stock (300ish i think). My guess is that with the stock FPR, when you run WOT, the increase in fuel pressure is causing too much fuel to be sprayed.

[kruftindustries]

I'm only at 10.4 (0.71) and it's requesting 0.83, I have adjusted the injector constant for the 550cc's but might need a small tweak

[Wrath And Tears]

Had some things wrong about how the FPR works so I changed my post a bit. I guess if you can change the constant like that then maybe there is no need for a different FPR once you get the constant dialed in.

[kruftindustries]

So it wasn't the injector constant, that is nearly perfect the way I had it. I remember seeing a map for minimum injector time somewhere, might have something to do with it. I did a few adjustments and watched block 031 at idle, looked ok, got it where it wasn't gurgling anymore and lo and behold, I'm now pretty darn lean and the exhaust bolts came loose. egt was higher than I'd like I'll update when I figure out what it was.

[redline380]

Just to be safe...

Stop messing with it! It looks like you have zero timing up top. It is between -4 and 6 degrees. I had the same problem when I first used maestro on my 01.

You need to contact Eurodyne with this problem. They will request some info and send you a special code. And boom, timing.

My situation- http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...=1#post7781849

[kruftindustries]

I'm not confident we have the same issue, There's 2nd-4th in that log, car is automatic, turbo is spooled by 2800 rpm and hitting 18psi with a fairly soaked smic. Are you talking about the knock correction at 5k rpm? Don't get me wrong, car pulls pretty hard but if I could get it outrunning the yamaha's and GSXr's I'd crap my pants. (Maybe literally from g-force)

Looking over the log again, please note this was a rolling start, brought it up to 2650 rpm in row 43, throttle position at 22.4 in the CSV before full throttle, notice it takes 400ms to jump to 4320rpm and timing pulls 19.5 degrees, so there are definitely a few samples missing from the log from the laptop flopping around.

[kruftindustries]

Update:
Injector constant is fine, car does indeed have a 4 bar FPR, this has to be a fueling table issue. I bring down maximum VE to under 190% and it fuels perfectly. Now the "tuning" begins.

My thought is to get my fueling table for wot proper for the maximum boost I intend to achieve and let it interpolate under that. Looks like the top of this table was set up that way only for maybe 20psi instead of 18. I'm scared of 20 psi and there's no reason why I should be going there with my turbo unless I feel like pushing the same volume of much warmer air into my intake, sacrificing timing and turbo bearings for no reason..

Any takers on what to look out for or am I completely off base with this approach?