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  1. #1
    Veteran Member Four Rings A4orce84's Avatar
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    A/C Fan Not Working - Fan Control Module Wiring

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    Hey Everyone,

    I was recently throwing a code for an intermittent fan control module fault, screenshot here:


    I ended up picking up the new revision of the FCM from ebay here (vs. spending $350 at ECS):
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/331880579041

    The Issue:
    The radiator fan (driver's side fan) is running and spinning correctly, however the passenger side (A/C fan) does not spin at all. Some of the colors of the wiring were a bit mismatched, so we tried to match things as best as we could via the orientation of the wiring.

    The differences in terms of the wiring between the OEM FCM vs. Ebay FCM is as follows:

    Wiring Differences:
    -----------------------------------
    OEM FCM:
    Yellow/Green - rad
    Orange/Purple - A/C

    Ebay FCM:
    Yellow/Black - rad
    Red/Purple - A/C
    -----------------------------------

    At this point, the issues could potentially be the following:
    1. FCM Wiring Incorrect for Passenger A/C Fan
    2. Actual Passenger A/C Fan Not WorKing Properly (burnt up)

    I am fairly certain the Passenger A/C fan was working correctly before the FCM replacement. This is because my A/C now is not getting as cold as it did a week prior (was ice cold last week, now it is just cool). In addition, to add to to the troubleshooting process, it appears that my intermittent FCM has not come back in over 24 hours now. So, it appears that the code at least has been resolved.

    Question:
    Does anyone have any experience with using this similar Chinese fan control module? And if so, can someone give some troubleshooting ideas on what might be the root-cause of this potential wiring issue?

    Thanks,
    Asif
    Last edited by A4orce84; 07-18-2016 at 04:43 PM.
    USP CLUB MEMBER #101

    2004 A4 1.8T USP - APR Stage 2+, Mototec Sport Exhaust w/AWE downpipe, Valeo Clutch Kit, 2.0T FSI Coils, EVOMS Diverter Valve, Boosted Intake, B5 S4 Front Brakes, RNS-E + Bluetooth Module, VMR 708s (RS4 Reps), Boost Brothers FMIC, '02 OEM Sport Suspension + B5 Front Perches, PODi, JHM Solid Short Shifter, JHM Solid Linkage Upgrade, and a lot more stuff!

  2. #2
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Yea I've got one of those badboys. That is my setup with the camera pointing forward. It works fine but it should be noted the first one they sent me was defective and didnt work so I had to return it and get a second one. Free of charge except postage. The damn chinese knocks off everything cheaply but apparently quality control isnt high on their list. It would appear you are wired up correctly. I would run direct power to the fan first. If it spins then your module is bad. Good luck.

  3. #3
    Veteran Member Four Rings diagnosticator's Avatar
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    Seattle, WA

    A good used OEM FCM would be my choice over a Chinese knock off part that is not 100 percent compatible with the OEM FCM, and would most likely be comparable cost if not less expensive. Remember, all cars being driven run on used parts.

    Valeo is the OEM, and there are three versions of the FCM, 300W 400W and 600W capacity. I don't see any fan power rating on the non OEM FCMs.
    Last edited by diagnosticator; 07-18-2016 at 06:58 PM.
    Vorsprung durch Technik

  4. #4
    Veteran Member Four Rings A4orce84's Avatar
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    Hey Everyone,

    Can someone offer a good method on how to test the actual A/C fan unit? What is the easiest way to apply the 12v needed, to test the fan directly?

    Thanks,
    Asif
    USP CLUB MEMBER #101

    2004 A4 1.8T USP - APR Stage 2+, Mototec Sport Exhaust w/AWE downpipe, Valeo Clutch Kit, 2.0T FSI Coils, EVOMS Diverter Valve, Boosted Intake, B5 S4 Front Brakes, RNS-E + Bluetooth Module, VMR 708s (RS4 Reps), Boost Brothers FMIC, '02 OEM Sport Suspension + B5 Front Perches, PODi, JHM Solid Short Shifter, JHM Solid Linkage Upgrade, and a lot more stuff!

  5. #5
    Veteran Member Four Rings diagnosticator's Avatar
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    First, remove the wire from the FCM at the motor positive terminal , and leave the negative motor terminal connection to ground as is. Next connect the positive + motor terminal to the battery positive post with a long jumper wire. The motor should spin up and run at full speed.
    Vorsprung durch Technik

  6. #6
    Veteran Member Four Rings A4orce84's Avatar
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    Hello Everyone,

    diagnosticator - Sounds like what you are describing requires the removal of the actual fan (putting the front-end in 'service position) to be able to test it directly.

    Question:
    Is there a way to test the fan without taking a part the front-end to put it in service position?

    Thanks,
    Asif
    USP CLUB MEMBER #101

    2004 A4 1.8T USP - APR Stage 2+, Mototec Sport Exhaust w/AWE downpipe, Valeo Clutch Kit, 2.0T FSI Coils, EVOMS Diverter Valve, Boosted Intake, B5 S4 Front Brakes, RNS-E + Bluetooth Module, VMR 708s (RS4 Reps), Boost Brothers FMIC, '02 OEM Sport Suspension + B5 Front Perches, PODi, JHM Solid Short Shifter, JHM Solid Linkage Upgrade, and a lot more stuff!

  7. #7
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by A4orce84 View Post
    Hello Everyone,

    diagnosticator - Sounds like what you are describing requires the removal of the actual fan (putting the front-end in 'service position) to be able to test it directly.

    Question:
    Is there a way to test the fan without taking a part the front-end to put it in service position?

    Thanks,
    Asif
    Cut or uncrimp the two wires coming off the fan. use extention .Run one to ground and one to positive terminal on battery. That is all there is to it.

  8. #8
    Veteran Member Four Rings diagnosticator's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by A4orce84 View Post
    Hello Everyone,

    diagnosticator - Sounds like what you are describing requires the removal of the actual fan (putting the front-end in 'service position) to be able to test it directly.

    Question:
    Is there a way to test the fan without taking a part the front-end to put it in service position?

    Thanks,
    Asif
    Nope. Test fan installed. Use the wires to the fan motor that you spliced to installing the new FCM. However, accessing the fan motor is a lot easier in service position.
    Vorsprung durch Technik

  9. #9
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Why would u put it in service position just to run power to the spliced wires? I believe he is asking how to test the fans which already installed.
    If the op had half of sense he would have figured it out on his own(no offense). We are not talking about rebuilding a head here. Reach behind the fan. Find the two wires coming off the fan. Run them to 12v+ and ground. The polarity is of no consquence if all he want to know is the fan is still functional.

  10. #10
    Veteran Member Four Rings diagnosticator's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hightime80 View Post
    Why would u put it in service position just to run power to the spliced wires? I believe he is asking how to test the fans which already installed.
    If the op had half of sense he would have figured it out on his own(no offense). We are not talking about rebuilding a head here. Reach behind the fan. Find the two wires coming off the fan. Run them to 12v+ and ground. The polarity is of no consquence if all he want to know is the fan is still functional.
    The space is very limited. Placing the front of the car in service position is not a mistake. That has to be done anyway if the fan motor is faulty.
    Vorsprung durch Technik

  11. #11
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    You are right sir. I did not think of it that way. If he is asking about the fan, odds are it's probably toast anyway.
    I wish op luck. Because if he can't figure out how to test the fans he will have a hell of a time to put it in the service position.

  12. #12
    Established Member Two Rings
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    I do not have spliced wires, but I still need to test functionality on both fans.

    can anyone tell me the color of the leads I need to connect to positive and negative on the battery?
    2002 A4 3.0 MT

  13. #13
    Veteran Member Four Rings A4orce84's Avatar
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    Hey Everyone,

    Confirmed, looks like my AC fan is indeed dead after testing it directly. Where's the best place to get a replacement?

    In addition, should I look into getting an EFK (Electric Fan Kit) as a better alternative than OEM?


    Thanks,
    Asif
    USP CLUB MEMBER #101

    2004 A4 1.8T USP - APR Stage 2+, Mototec Sport Exhaust w/AWE downpipe, Valeo Clutch Kit, 2.0T FSI Coils, EVOMS Diverter Valve, Boosted Intake, B5 S4 Front Brakes, RNS-E + Bluetooth Module, VMR 708s (RS4 Reps), Boost Brothers FMIC, '02 OEM Sport Suspension + B5 Front Perches, PODi, JHM Solid Short Shifter, JHM Solid Linkage Upgrade, and a lot more stuff!

  14. #14
    Senior Member Two Rings Preston_08's Avatar
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    1998 Chevrolet C1500
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    Quote Originally Posted by A4orce84 View Post
    Hey Everyone,

    Confirmed, looks like my AC fan is indeed dead after testing it directly. Where's the best place to get a replacement?

    In addition, should I look into getting an EFK (Electric Fan Kit) as a better alternative than OEM?


    Thanks,
    Asif
    I've seen both fans that come in the plastic shroud on europaparts.com for $130 I think. Had a positive review on it.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  15. #15
    Veteran Member Four Rings A4orce84's Avatar
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    I can't buy just the A/C condenser fan only?


    Thanks,
    Asif
    USP CLUB MEMBER #101

    2004 A4 1.8T USP - APR Stage 2+, Mototec Sport Exhaust w/AWE downpipe, Valeo Clutch Kit, 2.0T FSI Coils, EVOMS Diverter Valve, Boosted Intake, B5 S4 Front Brakes, RNS-E + Bluetooth Module, VMR 708s (RS4 Reps), Boost Brothers FMIC, '02 OEM Sport Suspension + B5 Front Perches, PODi, JHM Solid Short Shifter, JHM Solid Linkage Upgrade, and a lot more stuff!

  16. #16
    Senior Member Two Rings Preston_08's Avatar
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    My Garage
    1998 Chevrolet C1500
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    Quote Originally Posted by A4orce84 View Post
    I can't buy just the A/C condenser fan only?


    Thanks,
    Asif
    You can, be around the same if not more than for just a single fan.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  17. #17
    Veteran Member Four Rings A4orce84's Avatar
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    Sounds good, anyone have any input on the electric fan kit option? Is this a 'better' option for replacement part?


    Thanks,
    Asif
    USP CLUB MEMBER #101

    2004 A4 1.8T USP - APR Stage 2+, Mototec Sport Exhaust w/AWE downpipe, Valeo Clutch Kit, 2.0T FSI Coils, EVOMS Diverter Valve, Boosted Intake, B5 S4 Front Brakes, RNS-E + Bluetooth Module, VMR 708s (RS4 Reps), Boost Brothers FMIC, '02 OEM Sport Suspension + B5 Front Perches, PODi, JHM Solid Short Shifter, JHM Solid Linkage Upgrade, and a lot more stuff!

  18. #18
    Veteran Member Three Rings lyates1987's Avatar
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    I have a the entire fan assemble except for the fan control module left on my parts car if you're looking to possibly get it locally. I won't be able to make it out to the car until Saturday tho

  19. #19
    Veteran Member Four Rings A4orce84's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lyates1987 View Post
    I have a the entire fan assemble except for the fan control module left on my parts car if you're looking to possibly get it locally. I won't be able to make it out to the car until Saturday tho


    You got PM!
    USP CLUB MEMBER #101

    2004 A4 1.8T USP - APR Stage 2+, Mototec Sport Exhaust w/AWE downpipe, Valeo Clutch Kit, 2.0T FSI Coils, EVOMS Diverter Valve, Boosted Intake, B5 S4 Front Brakes, RNS-E + Bluetooth Module, VMR 708s (RS4 Reps), Boost Brothers FMIC, '02 OEM Sport Suspension + B5 Front Perches, PODi, JHM Solid Short Shifter, JHM Solid Linkage Upgrade, and a lot more stuff!

  20. #20
    Senior Member Three Rings
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    I had problems with my fans not coming on when I turned on my AC. I cut the fan wires thinking it was my FCM.

    I tested it by wiring a smaller gauge wire than the fans, direct to the positive and the negative of the battery. Still the fan didn't turn on. The meter shows 11 volts. Should my car be running to test it? Does it need 13 volts?

    I connected the condenser fan as shown and the radiator fan also but the fans didn't turn on--not even a motor squeal. Did I do it wrong?

    Can it be that both fan motors are dead at the same time? I would think one would still spin.

    Thanks for any input.



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