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  1. #1
    Established Member Two Rings JordanBetch's Avatar
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    B5 S4 Raceland Coilover Install

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    Diving into my Coilover project today on my 01 s4, and have a few questions that my research has left fuzzy. Ive seen people reuse stock bump stops, and people not use them at all... So some input there would be cool. Also have read walkthroughs that say bolts need to be torqued under load and some that say just tighten all the bolts (this seems important). I am also doing the rear shock mounts, but those seem pretty straight forward. Just would like some input on those 2 things before getting the car up. Thanks in advance!!!


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  2. #2
    Veteran Member Four Rings Bordom's Avatar
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    Always torque bolts with the suspension loaded.

    Reuse the old bump stops of the coils don't come with them

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  3. #3
    Veteran Member Four Rings christianb5s4's Avatar
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    Personally, it's easier to jack the suspension up and torque everything down properly under load. Also, I used an 034 density line upper strut mount and new OEM strut hat along with fresh hardware (all nuts and bolts) to make sure everything was done completely and correctly.
    Imola 2001 Stage 3 S4: 324K - 157mph 1/2 mile - 543whp/530ftlbs Mustang Dyno - Built BEL Block - RS4 cams/intake - TTE600s - Ringer Racing Stage 5 - Etspec - SRM V3 Intercoolers - AA built trans - 4:1 Diff - Vast cooler - JHM Trio - 034 - H&R Coilovers - OZ Racing - SRM/SSAC exhaust
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  4. #4
    Established Member Two Rings JordanBetch's Avatar
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    I did the rears tonight, drove around a little bit and they settled noticeably. I tightened everything down with the hub jacked up. I do have a question about the upper control arm, when I took it off the shock mount it was tightened down pretty solid with the mount at a 90° angle, should I replace it as tight in the same fashion? Now that I've done it all it wouldn't be hard to adjust that. I just made it tight enough to where it wouldn't come out but could still swing up and down with a little force. Also getting faint creaks but I'm sure that's because they are brand new.


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  5. #5
    Veteran Member Four Rings Bordom's Avatar
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    You want to tighten the shit outta that. Bushings are made to flex, but they're not doing anything with how you set them up; you're just wearing the shock mount and bushings away in the metal parts

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    Bordom's Allroad; Boat in the Street
    2003 Allroad 6-spd, 4.2 BBD S6 Swap

    IG: 24_et

    Sold:
    2010 Deep Sea Blue S4 6-spd

    RIP:
    2001.5 Brilliant Black S4 6-spd

  6. #6
    Established Member Two Rings JordanBetch's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bordom View Post
    You want to tighten the shit outta that. Bushings are made to flex, but they're not doing anything with how you set them up; you're just wearing the shock mount and bushings away in the metal parts

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    Is there a certain position I should tighten it down in??


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  7. #7
    Established Member Two Rings shepa401's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JordanBetch View Post
    Is there a certain position I should tighten it down in??


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    There are torque specs to tighten them to. I couldn't get my torque wrench to fit in half the spots when i was doing mine. I just jacked it up and went a 1/4 turn passed good-N-tight.

    I found this for reference when i did mine.

    http://www.audihowto.com/audi-a4-b5-...-1994-to-2001/

  8. #8
    Veteran Member Four Rings Bordom's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JordanBetch View Post
    Is there a certain position I should tighten it down in??


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    With the hub jacked up. I usually stop to tighten when the car starts to lift up off the jack stand

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    Bordom's Allroad; Boat in the Street
    2003 Allroad 6-spd, 4.2 BBD S6 Swap

    IG: 24_et

    Sold:
    2010 Deep Sea Blue S4 6-spd

    RIP:
    2001.5 Brilliant Black S4 6-spd

  9. #9
    Veteran Member Four Rings christianb5s4's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bordom View Post
    With the hub jacked up. I usually stop to tighten when the car starts to lift up off the jack stand

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    This. Or if you'd like to be more precise, you can set the car down on ground (with the wheels on of course) and measure the distance from your hub to the fender and replicate that by jacking the suspension the same distance prior to torquing everything down.
    Imola 2001 Stage 3 S4: 324K - 157mph 1/2 mile - 543whp/530ftlbs Mustang Dyno - Built BEL Block - RS4 cams/intake - TTE600s - Ringer Racing Stage 5 - Etspec - SRM V3 Intercoolers - AA built trans - 4:1 Diff - Vast cooler - JHM Trio - 034 - H&R Coilovers - OZ Racing - SRM/SSAC exhaust
    2024 M3 Comp xDrive
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  10. #10
    Veteran Member Four Rings Bordom's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by christianb5s4 View Post
    This. Or if you'd like to be more precise, you can set the car down on ground (with the wheels on of course) and measure the distance from your hub to the fender and replicate that by jacking the suspension the same distance prior to torquing everything down.
    X2.

    I did this method when I put the coilovers in my S4. I used the other method for my A4, but it worked just as well.

    Don't forget to get an alignment after 2 weeks or so

    Everything graciously mispelled by Android
    Bordom's Allroad; Boat in the Street
    2003 Allroad 6-spd, 4.2 BBD S6 Swap

    IG: 24_et

    Sold:
    2010 Deep Sea Blue S4 6-spd

    RIP:
    2001.5 Brilliant Black S4 6-spd

  11. #11
    Established Member Two Rings JordanBetch's Avatar
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    Thank you for the advice guys, it is much appreciated. Any tips for getting this bolt out under these lines? (I know the body plug is supposed to be removed)


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  12. #12
    Veteran Member Four Rings redline380's Avatar
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    There is no bolt under there? You are doing coils, take three out holding the strut top in
    “You may recall we went to a PARK IN BOTSWANA." George W. Bush, 43rd President of the United States of America

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  13. #13
    Senior Member Two Rings joeSfour's Avatar
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    South Bay, CA

    Quote Originally Posted by JordanBetch View Post
    Thank you for the advice guys, it is much appreciated. Any tips for getting this bolt out under these lines? (I know the body plug is supposed to be removed)
    Pictures of the bolts you need to remove are in here:
    http://www.audiforums.com/forum/diy-...l-arms-173205/
    Current - 2001 B5 S4 Imola Avant
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  14. #14
    Established Member Two Rings JordanBetch's Avatar
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    I am trying to do the front without touching the pinch bolt


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  15. #15
    Veteran Member Four Rings Bordom's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JordanBetch View Post
    I am trying to do the front without touching the pinch bolt


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    In that case, those are caps and you pry them out. They will be destroyed in the process and then you have to get new ones

    Everything graciously mispelled by Android
    Bordom's Allroad; Boat in the Street
    2003 Allroad 6-spd, 4.2 BBD S6 Swap

    IG: 24_et

    Sold:
    2010 Deep Sea Blue S4 6-spd

    RIP:
    2001.5 Brilliant Black S4 6-spd

  16. #16
    Veteran Member Three Rings
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    You'll be able to get that bolt with a wobble extension on a socket wrench.

    No need to remove the pinch bolt. Undo the two top bolts and the bottom one on the knuckle then push down on the hub while you slide the whole coilover assembly out.

    Make sure you use the little washer on the correct side of the top mounts as well.

  17. #17
    Established Member Two Rings JordanBetch's Avatar
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    I don't want to jinx myself by saying it sounds easier than anticipated, cause I'll run into a roadblock or something I'm sure. I'll be starting on the fronts early Friday morning, and if I have any problems the'll be posted up in here! Thanks again everybody


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  18. #18
    Established Member Two Rings m47thew's Avatar
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    Sub'd! I may be in for questions as well because my KW's should be arriving soon.


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    2001.5 S4 - Milltek SuperDual Exhaust, GIAC Xplus tune, 034 adjustable upper control arms (front and rear), density line lower control arms, front sway bar end links, rear sway bar + reinforcements, KW V3 suspension...

  19. #19
    Established Member Two Rings JordanBetch's Avatar
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    Reusing the bump stops on the front... Most people say they cut it, where? And does that stupid sleeve stay??


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  20. #20
    Veteran Member Four Rings Bordom's Avatar
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    That sleeve is the dust cover. Recommended you keep that. I'm not running them on my Solowerks coilovers though, so it's your choice

    Everything graciously mispelled by Android
    Bordom's Allroad; Boat in the Street
    2003 Allroad 6-spd, 4.2 BBD S6 Swap

    IG: 24_et

    Sold:
    2010 Deep Sea Blue S4 6-spd

    RIP:
    2001.5 Brilliant Black S4 6-spd

  21. #21
    Established Member Two Rings JordanBetch's Avatar
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    Kept them on and figured everything out. they're all set 2.75" up from the bottom and it seems every corner sits at a different height... But the 10 miles I've driven on them I'm pleased for now. Interested for everything to settle and get broken in!


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  22. #22
    Veteran Member Four Rings MacDaddy's Avatar
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    thats because your binding all your bushings

    Valiant effort but you should stop working on your own car before you kill someone.
    the B5 S4 is like the mafia... there is only one way out!

  23. #23
    Established Member Two Rings JordanBetch's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MacDaddy View Post
    thats because your binding all your bushings

    Valiant effort but you should stop working on your own car before you kill someone.
    Thank you but what exactly did I do wrong to risk somebody's life?


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