Clock and trip data keep resetting

[daught]

I often find my car with clock resetted and trip data lost. My battery is new, and good. I tried tightening a bunch of grounds and positive terminals under the dash. Today, for the first time, for a few seconds my dash died while my car was idling. Rpm went to zero, clock resented, but the engine kept running and radio was working.

Anyone had this issue?

[MoparFreak69]

Cluster issue. Either the wiring to the connectors in the back of it have damaged/crappy pins or the control circuits are failing.

[old guy]

Here's a DIY to help with the cluster removal. Clicky click®

[daught]

I reseated the gage cluster connectors. Tightened more grounds.

I also removed my fog hid ballasts in the unlikely case they mess with the electric system.

Is the gauge cluster know to fail this way? Can it be fixed? I really don't like replacing gauge clusters due to miss matched mileage.

[diagnosticator]

I reseated the gage cluster connectors. Tightened more grounds.

I also removed my fog hid ballasts in the unlikely case they mess with the electric system.

Is the gauge cluster know to fail this way? Can it be fixed? I really don't like replacing gauge clusters due to miss matched mileage.

After you buy a used instrument cluster, get it "virginized". Then you can set the odometer displayed mileage to the exact same value as the old cluster.

Your problem sounds like a loose power supply or ground circuit connection to the instrument cluster, causing intermittent loss of power supply to the instrument cluster. The ground circuits are part of the power supply circuits. If the external power supply connections are all good with no loose connections, then the problem is likely internal to the Instrument cluster.

[daught]

Bump... so it started acting up again.

The dash lights either go off or blink on and off for a few seconds. The radio and climate control lights do the same so its not just the dash. The car does not turn off and the radio continues to run.

Does the lights switch affect those light? I am thinking I will start by removing the switch to see if it affects the lights.

Worst comes to worst I have to trace the power from the fuse to the ground.

Any better ideas where to start?

Sent from my DROID Turbo using Tapatalk

[Nollywood]

I would say it's a cluster issue. The climate control panel, and the radio being affected are red herrings - don't forget that lighting intensity is controlled by the rheostat (58d) in the cluster itself.

I would first start by disconnecting your aftermarket HID ballasts, these have been known to upset sensitive onboard systems due to "white noise". If disconnecting these has no effect on your issues, replace the cluster. You'll need the SKC of your current cluster, as well as that of the donor, to have it coded, for IMMO and other settings.

[Nollywood]

I see you removed your foglamp ballasts, yet the problem persisted.

Replace cluster, paying heed to what myself and Diagnosticator originally posted.

[EuroxS4]

After you buy a used instrument cluster, get it "virginized". Then you can set the odometer displayed mileage to the exact same value as the old cluster.

Your problem sounds like a loose power supply or ground circuit connection to the instrument cluster, causing intermittent loss of power supply to the instrument cluster. The ground circuits are part of the power supply circuits. If the external power supply connections are all good with no loose connections, then the problem is likely internal to the Instrument cluster.

Its not necessary to get the cluster virginized.You could adapt it as long as your able to extract the pin and set it to new mode 04 with some simple software rather than taking it to the dealer.Although I have never seen a RB4 cluster fail.As your sure you dont have any shorted wires going to the cluster??or anything tapped into the same wires for the cluster??Headlight switch turns on illumination on the interior of the vehicle.Inspect the headlight switch i've seen them burn up in the past causing some weird electrical issues.To remove,Turn on headlights,push the knob in and slightly turn counter clock wise to remove.Inspect all wiring at the switch,remove connector check for dark connection pins and or melted or burned plastic

[Tugboatguy]

Sounds like intermitant bad ground to the cluster.

[seanf86]

Bump... so it started acting up again.

The dash lights either go off or blink on and off for a few seconds. The radio and climate control lights do the same so its not just the dash. The car does not turn off and the radio continues to run.

Does the lights switch affect those light? I am thinking I will start by removing the switch to see if it affects the lights.

Worst comes to worst I have to trace the power from the fuse to the ground.

Any better ideas where to start?

Sent from my DROID Turbo using Tapatalk

If the car does not turn off when all of this is happening maybe a bad ignition switch?

[daught]

I did some more tests

Pulling fuse 15 with car running does not reset clock, only resets on restart. Vent and drawer lights go out but radio HVAC lights stay on. Clock resets when car stopped. No alarms.

Fuse 13 no HVAC or deck lights. Clock does not reset even car off. Burned out fog beeps when reconnected.

Gauges lit and needles lit both fuses out

When my cluster acts up the needles go out.

So, there must be a third power source. Any idea where it comes from? Its not from the dash fuse panel since I pulled each one out one by one.

I re-tightened my grounds under the dash. Next step would be to start disconnecting ground to identify the dash ground... or anyone know which one it is exactly?

I realize its most likely a bad cluster but since its just a nuisance at the moment I like to try troubleshooting the whole system before I replace it.

If it comes to replacement, can I install one from a salvage yard without a PIN? Does it have to be connected to the original ECU to pull the pin?

Sent from my DROID Turbo using Tapatalk

[Luxus Panzer]

I did some more tests

Pulling fuse 15 with car running does not reset clock, only resets on restart. Vent and drawer lights go out but radio HVAC lights stay on. Clock resets when car stopped. No alarms.

Fuse 13 no HVAC or deck lights. Clock does not reset even car off. Burned out fog beeps when reconnected.

Gauges lit and needles lit both fuses out

When my cluster acts up the needles go out.

So, there must be a third power source. Any idea where it comes from? Its not from the dash fuse panel since I pulled each one out one by one.

I re-tightened my grounds under the dash. Next step would be to start disconnecting ground to identify the dash ground... or anyone know which one it is exactly?

I realize its most likely a bad cluster but since its just a nuisance at the moment I like to try troubleshooting the whole system before I replace it.

If it comes to replacement, can I install one from a salvage yard without a PIN? Does it have to be connected to the original ECU to pull the pin?

Sent from my DROID Turbo using Tapatalk

I think you can pull the pin from a donor cluster if you install it in your car and use the correct software to read its pin /SKC

I will be testing this as soon as I get some time I have a donor cluster sitting on my workbench

[EuroxS4]

I did some more tests

Pulling fuse 15 with car running does not reset clock, only resets on restart. Vent and drawer lights go out but radio HVAC lights stay on. Clock resets when car stopped. No alarms.

Fuse 13 no HVAC or deck lights. Clock does not reset even car off. Burned out fog beeps when reconnected.

Gauges lit and needles lit both fuses out

When my cluster acts up the needles go out.

So, there must be a third power source. Any idea where it comes from? Its not from the dash fuse panel since I pulled each one out one by one.

I re-tightened my grounds under the dash. Next step would be to start disconnecting ground to identify the dash ground... or anyone know which one it is exactly?

I realize its most likely a bad cluster but since its just a nuisance at the moment I like to try troubleshooting the whole system before I replace it.

If it comes to replacement, can I install one from a salvage yard without a PIN? Does it have to be connected to the original ECU to pull the pin?

Sent from my DROID Turbo using Tapatalk

Pin could be pulled with a laptop some simple software and a ftdi cable.Piece of cake.However you will need to pull both pins.As you will need to adapt the replacement cluster to the ecu.So rather than doing extra steps trying to read the pin from the ecu.You can pull the pin from the original cluster.Install used cluster.Pull the pin from that also.Then adapt using procedure in vcds.I say pull the pin from cluster because its easier and less of a hassle.Pins always match between ecu,cluster and keys.

[daught]

Good DIY in the A6 forum

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...th-Immobilizer

[daught]

Did a bit more testing.

Pulling fuse 15 with car running does not reset clock. Vent and drawer lights go out but radio HVAC lights stay on. Clock resets when car stopped.

Fuse 13 no HVAC deck lights. Clock does not reset even car off.

Gauges lit and needles lit wirh both fuses out.

So what supplies power to the dash if not those 2 fuses?

Also when the dash goes crazy and resets a bunch of times while drinving there is a grinding like noise coming from it. Kinda like a rusty small electric motor.

[5ktq]

Interesting. The needles are actually driven by little stepper motors, though as understand their failure mode is generally - doesn't move.

though I suppose the speaker could be playing gibberish grindy noise while it is losing power?

[daught]

The needles work just fine otherwise.

[daught]

I am looking to swap it. Are all years B6 1.8t gauge clusters compatible with each other?

[daught]

BUMP I really need some help deciding what cluster I can use. I am pretty paranoid about it since the car can be "bricked".
My cluster is 8E0 920 900 L RB4. I found one in an older A4 but it had 8E0 920 900 N. I know the last netter represents just a revision, but does it matter in any way here?
Online it looks like 02 to 05 are good no problem, N or L. It does not even matter if it's 4 cylinder 6 or 8 as long as it's gas. http://www.jimellisaudiparts.com/pro...0920900NX.html

car-part.com though only lists 2004 as compatible with a vin split 137001. Same with S4 clusters, 04 with a vin split at 137001.

What's up with the discrepancy?