intake manifold gasket replacement? top/bottom half

[Terry.Reese]

Do they actually sell replacement gaskets or do you have to make new ones? 4.2l the gasket that seals the top half to the bottom half. mine has a vacuum leak.

[ZimbutheMonkey]

How do you know that it's leaking from the manifold halves?

Assuming that it is however, no, they do not make a gasket, you just use a sealant to re-seal the manifold as you described.

[dmanisgnarly]

Do they actually sell replacement gaskets or do you have to make new ones? 4.2l the gasket that seals the top half to the bottom half. mine has a vacuum leak.

While I had mine apart I looked at the gasket. Looked to be a one time use thing where the intake was meant to be sealed for lifetime..the same with headlights and t lot of other stuff on our cars. I lathered some sealant onto the existing seal and put it back together. No leaks!

[Terry.Reese]

Used a air leak stethoscope from the local German car dealership, leak is right behind the manifold by the pcv valve tube. Verified with carb cleaner.

[gautam]

I replaced my intake manifold cover a few weeks ago cos mine had paint that was falling apart, I used black rtv that I bought from autozone for a few bucks, and made the gasket myself.

[Terry.Reese]

Tried that twice now. Both times vacuum leaks in different areas. I give up. I know i don't suck that bad on beads. This is really pissing me off. The gasket from the lower half was cracked so i removed it. As was suggested on another forum. Already bought a new one and will just clean the old one up and sell the top half, since i do not want to put someone else through the hell i have been dealing with on this thing.

[badger.]

Tried that twice now. Both times vacuum leaks in different areas. I give up. I know i don't suck that bad on beads. This is really pissing me off. The gasket from the lower half was cracked so i removed it. As was suggested on another forum. Already bought a new one and will just clean the old one up and sell the top half, since i do not want to put someone else through the hell i have been dealing with on this thing.

1. What type of sealant are you using?

2. How well are you cleaning the old groove out?

3. What size beads are you putting down?

4. How long between laying the bead, reassembling the halves, torquing the two halves, and first start of the vehicle?

[Terry.Reese]

I am using the "the right stuff" black RTV.

Cleaned it out completely.

Filled the grooves, little bit above the flat surface.

About an hour, as what the bottle says i can start using it again.

Thanks.

[ZimbutheMonkey]

I am using the "the right stuff" black RTV.

Cleaned it out completely.

Filled the grooves, little bit above the flat surface.

About an hour, as what the bottle says i can start using it again.

Thanks.

See, I left the orignal bead as undisturbed as I could. Otherwise, you have to lay up enough of a bead to seal the entire gap. I would consider laying a bead all around the manifold, letting it cure completely, then, trim off any excess and lay a really thin second layer across the width of the sealing surface with your finger. That seemed to work both times I pulled the manifold halves apart (although in my case I had the old sealant bead filling the crack from the start.

[milk]

Unfortunate case of read it too late here. I completely cleaned out the bead of the bottom half and really cleaned up the mating surface of the top half. Haven't gotten around to cleaning of bottom half but it looks really good, relative.

Since I cleaned out the original gasket material (digging it out of the trash as it's mostly in one piece, just in case) and am about to reseal the top and bottom, what would be the best approach?

I'm thinking I should lay a good solid bead filling the groove, like the original, and letting it cure. Then go back over it with a thinner second layer, like zimbu mentioned, before putting it back together.

Thoughts or other suggestions?

[VinnysS4]

Don't see why this wouldn't work.

Unfortunate case of read it too late here. I completely cleaned out the bead of the bottom half and really cleaned up the mating surface of the top half. Haven't gotten around to cleaning of bottom half but it looks really good, relative.

Since I cleaned out the original gasket material (digging it out of the trash as it's mostly in one piece, just in case) and am about to reseal the top and bottom, what would be the best approach?

I'm thinking I should lay a good solid bead filling the groove, like the original, and letting it cure. Then go back over it with a thinner second layer, like zimbu mentioned, before putting it back together.

Thoughts or other suggestions?

As far as laying a bead and immediately reassembling the 2 halves, I think you would have to use a decent amount of sealer and I'd be worried about it spooging out if the sealant is too thin.
I wonder how some bulk oring material would work.

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

[milk]

The directions on the Ultra Black Permatex I have (can order other stuff if recommended - I'm hoping the minor bit of gas circulating the egr wont affect it much) say to lay your continuous, appropriate sized bead, and then immediately re-attach. I don't want to risk too much splooging out either so I was hoping that I could let an initial bead set some before putting on a second bead and then immediately sealing. This would in effect (hopefully) create the same situation as some others have found success: leaving the original gasket material and beading over it.

I could also lay the original gasket material back in the groove and then add a layer of new stuff over the top. Thoughts on this over my above idea?

I noticed some sealer from the original job by Audi was stuck to the sides (near the mating surface) as well as along the runner walls. I'm sure it didn't hurt performance that much, but then again there is a reason port and polish jobs are done, right?

also - my intake spacers were installed about 20k ago. the two sets (4 total) intake manifold gaskets are starting to peel around the outsides (not near the intake runners) - The ECS check valve kit came with one set of intake manifold gaskets so I'll use those but I'm wondering if I can clean the best looking gaskets and re-use one set or should I wait and order another new set?

[Terry.Reese]

The directions on the Ultra Black Permatex I have (can order other stuff if recommended - I'm hoping the minor bit of gas circulating the egr wont affect it much) say to lay your continuous, appropriate sized bead, and then immediately re-attach. I don't want to risk too much splooging out either so I was hoping that I could let an initial bead set some before putting on a second bead and then immediately sealing. This would in effect (hopefully) create the same situation as some others have found success: leaving the original gasket material and beading over it.

I could also lay the original gasket material back in the groove and then add a layer of new stuff over the top. Thoughts on this over my above idea?

I noticed some sealer from the original job by Audi was stuck to the sides (near the mating surface) as well as along the runner walls. I'm sure it didn't hurt performance that much, but then again there is a reason port and polish jobs are done, right?

also - my intake spacers were installed about 20k ago. the two sets (4 total) intake manifold gaskets are starting to peel around the outsides (not near the intake runners) - The ECS check valve kit came with one set of intake manifold gaskets so I'll use those but I'm wondering if I can clean the best looking gaskets and re-use one set or should I wait and order another new set?

I was lucky enough to find someone with a spare seal, I added it to mine, laid another small bead down and boom, no more air leak. but as Zimbu stated, fill the groove up to where it is sitting flat, (use a CC or something to scrape clean) then once dried, add another bead to seal

[milk]

I was lucky enough to find someone with a spare seal, I added it to mine, laid another small bead down and boom, no more air leak. but as Zimbu stated, fill the groove up to where it is sitting flat, (use a CC or something to scrape clean) then once dried, add another bead to seal

Awesome, glad you got it fitting properly! I don't know if I'm clear on which flapper you're currently using, one of your custom fabbed ones or back to stock? If custom, how are you liking it? (flapping noise, butt dyno at lower RPM range) - trying to determine how much effort I want to put in over the next few days while more gaskets arrive. I'm mostly concerned with driveability/low RPM range rather than high RPM max HP numbers so I might just keep it stock and be happy that the IM is now cleaner than it was before.

I pulled the original gasket from the trash as its in pretty good condition. Sounds like my best bet is to clean the original gasket (wipe it down from sand, crud) and put it back into the (now very clean) groove, and proceed as you and Zimbu did with another small bead. This way I won't deal with trying to create a completely new "original" bead/gasket from the Permatex stuff.

[Terry.Reese]

Awesome, glad you got it fitting properly! I don't know if I'm clear on which flapper you're currently using, one of your custom fabbed ones or back to stock? If custom, how are you liking it? (flapping noise, butt dyno at lower RPM range) - trying to determine how much effort I want to put in over the next few days while more gaskets arrive. I'm mostly concerned with driveability/low RPM range rather than high RPM max HP numbers so I might just keep it stock and be happy that the IM is now cleaner than it was before.

I pulled the original gasket from the trash as its in pretty good condition. Sounds like my best bet is to clean the original gasket (wipe it down from sand, crud) and put it back into the (now very clean) groove, and proceed as you and Zimbu did with another small bead. This way I won't deal with trying to create a completely new "original" bead/gasket from the Permatex stuff.

Ironically, I havent been able to run mine yet as I grenaded the engine and am awaiting my replacement. will let you know once I have the new one in.