question regarding oil

[vex3000]

Hello,
I'm due for my first oil change since owning the car, it's a 2004 a4 3.0 with around 190k miles.

I'm definitely getting synthetic, and don't want to spend $100 at the dealership. Would getting valvoline or a high mileage synthetic at a lube shop be a bad move or would it make that much of a difference?

[crazyquik22023]

Its best to use a vw spec 502.00 or higher oil. I prefer Mobil 1 0w-40 or Rotella T6 5w-40 which are both full synthetics. You will need approx. 7 quarts.

[DOCEVG]

Lube shop is probably a bad move. Either do the oil change yourself or go to a decent independent repair shop in your area. Make sure the synthetic oil you get is spec'd for Audi (VW 502 or something like that).

[Charles.waite]

Tons of people run Rotella T6, even though its not VAG approved. Having said that, using anythign that is VAG 502 approved is just fine and will work just fine. I like (and use) Rotella T6 because its cheap and really really good for Turbo engines. For a NA V6 its probably not super well suited for the needs of that engine.

Here is Audi's official list: https://www.audiusa.com/content/dam/...e-Bulletin.pdf

[SJorge3442]

Tons of us 3.0 guys are running Rotella. I've tried Castrol 0-40 twice and I just wasnt as pleased in overall engine noise/sound when using it.

In short, Rotella with a Mann 930 filter is the way to go.

/Thread.

[road_tripper]

I run german castrol (now in 0w-40) and have 233K miles on my 3.0. I've subjected my poor car to all sorts of abuse (-50 in winter in Yellowknife, 130F in death valley, several trips to burning man), and it is still performing excellently.

Sometimes I buy my oem oil filters in bulk, but usually just buy them from the VW dealer; cheap and always available. You can buy the german castrol or rotella at wal-mart for good pricing.

In case you're not going to do the oil change yourself (as it sounds like in your original post), try calling the VW dealer and see what their pricing is... might be reasonable.

[Charles.waite]

Tons of us 3.0 guys are running Rotella. I've tried Castrol 0-40 twice and I just wasnt as pleased in overall engine noise/sound when using it.

In short, Rotella with a Mann 930 filter is the way to go.

/Thread.

There you go! Rotella T6 for EVERYONE!

[vex3000]

Thanks for the info guys. I've never changed my own oil but I'm considering just doing it myself. Could anyone link me to a guide with pictures for the 3.0 if one exists? All I saw was for the 1.8t (sorry- on my phone with limited Internet access)

[SJorge3442]

Thanks for the info guys. I've never changed my own oil but I'm considering just doing it myself. Could anyone link me to a guide with pictures for the 3.0 if one exists? All I saw was for the 1.8t (sorry- on my phone with limited Internet access)

If you're planning on keeping this A4 for a bit, YOU NEED TO LEARN TO WORK ON IT. These cars are expensive to work on, but its manageable if you do the work yourself. Otherwise, prepare to bend over and take it from shops when you take your car in for service.

[Charles.waite]

Thanks for the info guys. I've never changed my own oil but I'm considering just doing it myself. Could anyone link me to a guide with pictures for the 3.0 if one exists? All I saw was for the 1.8t (sorry- on my phone with limited Internet access)

If you're planning on keeping this A4 for a bit, YOU NEED TO LEARN TO WORK ON IT. These cars are expensive to work on, but its manageable if you do the work yourself. Otherwise, prepare to bend over and take it from shops when you take your car in for service.

This. There is TONS of info on here (less for the 3.0 but still plenty).

[MurkyRivers_A4]

I use Crisco

[imnuts]

My two oil choices are Rotella T6 or Motul X-Cess 8100. Motul is on the VAG approved list, T6 isn't. I haven't had any issues running Rotella for ~30-40k miles now, and I'm hoping it gets some of the varnish off of the heads that was there when the timing belt was last done.

[Charles.waite]

I use Crisco

We're talking about engine oil, not grundle lube, bruh.

[MurkyRivers_A4]

We're talking about engine oil, not grundle lube, bruh.

Oh.... well shit..... disregard.

I also use Rotella T6 for grundly duty lube.

[Charles.waite]

Oh.... well shit..... disregard.

I also use Rotella T6 for grundly duty lube.

That shear protection though...

[amgraham]

I run Liqui Moly or however you spell it in the Audi cause I can get it cheap and it's approved for the 1.8 and trying to fight the sludge. I run T6 in literally everything else though (2011 F-350 diesel, 2006 4Runner, 1987 4Runner, 1999 Suzuki Bandit). Makes it easy when Amazon runs a sale and I can stock up.

[daught]

Be careful when tightening the oil drain plug. It's a common mistake to overnighter them. Remember there's a lot more stripped oil pans than plugs that backed out.

[vex3000]

In that video it shows that they put in a new drain plug. Is that necessary?

[SJorge3442]

In that video it shows that they put in a new drain plug. Is that necessary?

Some people always change them. Others change the washer each time. Then theirs people like me who reuse the bolt and washer everytime. I've done 50+ oil changes and never had an issue. I did however change my washer on my ATV drain plug once and then proceeded to strip the bolt in the crank case (doh!). Now im anti crush washers as I blame that and not my intuitive 6th sense torque wrench.

[Charles.waite]

I usually reuse my drain plug twice then swap it out. On my b7 I have an aftermarket plug with a magnet and it uses standard removable washers so you can just replace those occasionally and you're fine.

[MurkyRivers_A4]

I use a wooden cork. No need for washers and no worries about stripping things.

[daught]

Once the original washer is crushed it's really hard to get it out. On my next bolt I will use a disposable nylon washer. They seal way better than aluminum washers.

[old guy]

I use a wooden cork. No need for washers and no worries about stripping things.

This is the kind of advice that really tics me off..... Why the hell would you recommend a wooden cork??

Everyone knows that you should be using synthetics these days. Geeze,,,,,,,



Clicky click®

[MurkyRivers_A4]

The wood is porous which permits a secondary exit for crank case vapors. It also helps collect and dispose of those smaller particles that the oil filter cant catch due to its location.

Havent you read anything ever?

But since your OG, I highly recommend the synthetics as well. Good call.

[old guy]

The wood is porous which permits a secondary exit for crank case vapors. It also helps collect and dispose of those smaller particles that the oil filter cant catch due to its location.

Havent you read anything ever?

I apologize for my outburst. I have been away from the interwebz for the past few days and obviously I haven't kept up with the latest developments in block vapor management.

Mea Culpa

[MurkyRivers_A4]

I apologize for my outburst. I have been away from the interwebz for the past few days and obviously I haven't kept up with the latest developments in block vapor management.

Mea Culpa

I apologize as well for making you feel like you had to apologize.

I am ashamed of myself.

[old guy]

[Charles.waite]

Do you guys have any studies to back up any of these claims?

[MurkyRivers_A4]

Do you guys have any studies to back up any of these claims?

Ill share them when you show me youre a real person and not a computer bot only hear to antagonize us!

[old guy]

Do you guys have any studies to back up any of these claims?

As a matter of fact, yes I do. If you are one of those chumps that insist on using Dino oil the standard bark cork will suffice. But once you upgrade to the good stuff you will find that the synthetic cork compliments your group 4 synthetic oil quite well. Clicky click®

[MurkyRivers_A4]

So weird how the synthetic "feels synthetic" my mind is blown.

[vex3000]

Well gentlemen, I got 6 quarts of rotella t6, gonna give it a shot this weekend. The manual says the capacity is ~5.4 qts but it seems like people are running 6-7... could anyone verify for sure how much to use?

[Charles.waite]

Probably what the manual says...

Why would you overfill the engine??

[Furly]

Ahh oil threads.
Thousand of them exist in the mysterious webs of the inter.

Use OEM or mann filters.
You can use almost any full synthetic 0W40 or 5W40 oil.

Personal preferences are what you will get.
I personally run liquimoly or motul. But most of my friends run Rotella.

I used to use mobile 1 0W40 euro formula. It is 502 approved, BUT I've noticed that mobile 1 is not the same anymore and it tends to leave an orange residue in cylinder heads over time. Which isn't a huge deal but it's nice to open the valve cover and see everything clean.

Doing your oil change yourself is extremely easy. It's the same for pretty much every car. Do as much work as you can yourself. You will learn the car and save a lot of money over time.
Do NOT drain the transmission fluid. The oil pan is literally at the front of your car. The transmission pan is more toward the center and it'll have ridges instead of being flat like the oil pan. You'd be surprised how many people I've seen accidentally drain the trans fluid. Don't let that worry you, it's just an advisory. Oil changes are so easy you'll laugh.
Same goes for spark plugs and other basic maintnenance.


You don't have to change your drain plug or washers. I've never done it and never had leaks. Hand tighten the drain plug and then give it a little bit of a turn with a wrench. Don't go crazy and try to tighten it super tight. It'll be fine.

Drive it around for a while, let the oil circulate, then turn the car off at home and wait 20 min and then check your dipstick to see if you need to add more oil or not. That's plenty of time for the oil to circulate back to the oil pan and give you an accurate reading.

Enjoy!

[19jdog]

There you go! Rotella T6 for EVERYONE!

Rotella T6 is the best!

[vex3000]

Well I pulled it off with the rotella t6. It was a nightmare getting the filter off with filter pliers but it worked out in the end. Thanks for the advice everyone!

[Furly]

Rotella T6 is the best!

No it's not. It's just a decent oil that is cheap and works for our cars.

Motul and liquimoly are the best.

[daught]

In my case I have to top up t6. Never had to top uo German Castrol.

[diagnosticator]

Ahh oil threads.
Thousand of them exist in the mysterious webs of the inter.

Use OEM or mann filters.
You can use almost any full synthetic 0W40 or 5W40 oil.

Personal preferences are what you will get.
I personally run liquimoly or motul. But most of my friends run Rotella.

I used to use mobile 1 0W40 euro formula. It is 502 approved, BUT I've noticed that mobile 1 is not the same anymore and it tends to leave an orange residue in cylinder heads over time. Which isn't a huge deal but it's nice to open the valve cover and see everything clean.

Doing your oil change yourself is extremely easy. It's the same for pretty much every car. Do as much work as you can yourself. You will learn the car and save a lot of money over time.
Do NOT drain the transmission fluid. The oil pan is literally at the front of your car. The transmission pan is more toward the center and it'll have ridges instead of being flat like the oil pan. You'd be surprised how many people I've seen accidentally drain the trans fluid. Don't let that worry you, it's just an advisory. Oil changes are so easy you'll laugh.
Same goes for spark plugs and other basic maintnenance.


You don't have to change your drain plug or washers. I've never done it and never had leaks. Hand tighten the drain plug and then give it a little bit of a turn with a wrench. Don't go crazy and try to tighten it super tight. It'll be fine.

Drive it around for a while, let the oil circulate, then turn the car off at home and wait 20 min and then check your dipstick to see if you need to add more oil or not. That's plenty of time for the oil to circulate back to the oil pan and give you an accurate reading.

Enjoy!

Yeah it is amazing how many first time DIYers. make this mistake!

[diagnosticator]

As a matter of fact, yes I do. If you are one of those chumps that insist on using Dino oil the standard bark cork will suffice. But once you upgrade to the good stuff you will find that the synthetic cork compliments your group 4 synthetic oil quite well. Clicky click®

OG, I am shocked! I thought you stopped using and recommending cork and wood plugs a long time ago! (or is this just a subtle but twisted joke?)