New fans, new fan control module... what now?

[wikked]

Bought the car with non-working fans 2 years ago.
Car was stuck in Econ.
First scan I got the code:
00819 - High Pressure Sensor (G65): Signal too Low

Replaced the sensor. Car still in Econ... whatever, forget about it for a year or so.
Read a bunch more on it, figure it's either the low gas, fans or FCM.

Have a guy try to re-gas my AC, it holds vacuum fine for 10+ minutes... it starts to accept freon, building pressure, then stops, needle drops to 0.
I figure the compressor won't kick on to suck in more gas, because the fans don't work, as a failsafe to not burn it up?

Scanned car again, got two codes:
01152 - Coolant Fan Control Circuit 1 Electrical Malfunction P0480, Lower Limit Reached - Intermittent
01152 - Coolant Fan Control Circuit 1 Electrical Malfunction P0480, No Signal/No Communication - Intermittent

Replaced the fans last week, manually tested them straight from the battery, they both spin up beautifully.
Bolt everything back together.
AC fan didn't turn on with the AC on... blah.
Both fans came on after I was sitting in a drive-thru after driving for ~20minutes. Wasn't expecting that.

Buy new fan control module, install it today.
AC fan doesn't turn on with AC on... blah.
Didn't hear any fans come on while idling anywhere.
The AC "works", it blows cool air out the vents, not ice cold, but not warm, probably because of the bit of gas that was able to be accepted earlier.

Checked every single fuse in the panel, all working.
Checked the 5 fuses under the windshield cowl box for the hell of it, all good.

I don't know what to do now?

[diagnosticator]

The Radiator fan on the driver's side, is controlled by the ECU. The ECU sends a PWM control signal to the FCM, and the FCM controls the power to the fan motor according to the duty cycle of the PWM signal.

The A/C condenser fan, on the passenger's side, is controlled by the HVAC controller in the dash. Again, it sends a PWM signal to the FCM to control fan speed.

Both fans are controlled through the FCM but they are separate circuits.

The A/C system is charged by adding ~500 grams weight R134A beginning at the fully evacuated state. Measuring the weight of the R134A added to the system with the bulk container on a scale is the only correct way to know how much refrigerant is added. After a minimum amount of R134A is added, the compressor lockout will clear allowing the engine to be started and the compressor to circulate R134A while the total amount of refrigerant is added to the system. When 500 grams total has been added, stop filling the system and replace the service port caps.

The DTC you have on the second scan, indicates the wire that sends the PWM signal to the FCM is open circuit / broken/disconnected somewhere The fan cannot run with the fault in the control signal wire existing.

If the break in the wire cannot be found, then a new yellow colored wire should be run on the outside of the wiring harness, connected to the same terminals on each end as the original wire.

[wikked]

The Radiator fan on the driver's side, is controlled by the ECU. The ECU sends a PWM control signal to the FCM, and the FCM controls the power to the fan motor according to the duty cycle of the PWM signal.

The A/C condenser fan, on the passenger's side, is controlled by the HVAC controller in the dash. Again, it sends a PWM signal to the FCM to control fan speed.

Both fans are controlled through the FCM but they are separate circuits.

The A/C system is charged by adding ~500 grams weight R134A beginning at the fully evacuated state. Measuring the weight of the R134A added to the system with the bulk container on a scale is the only correct way to know how much refrigerant is added. After a minimum amount of R134A is added, the compressor lockout will clear allowing the engine to be started and the compressor to circulate R134A while the total amount of refrigerant is added to the system. When 500 grams total has been added, stop filling the system and replace the service port caps.

The DTC you have on the second scan, indicates the wire that sends the PWM signal to the FCM is open circuit / broken/disconnected somewhere The fan cannot run with the fault in the control signal wire existing.

If the break in the wire cannot be found, then a new yellow colored wire should be run on the outside of the wiring harness, connected to the same terminals on each end as the original wire.

Thanks for the info! Time to do some hunting.
Do you happen to know the color of the wire that sends the PWM signal to the FCM?

[wikked]

Also, what are these two wires for? They go to some kind of (non-removable?) sensor right under the hood latch area, and has a connector right at the middle bottom of the fan shroud.

[fly300kts]

They are the hood sensor
Attach them together and protect = done

Phil

[wikked]

They are the hood sensor
Attach them together and protect = done

Phil

Ah thanks. They are attached already, but just oddly bare at the top.

[wikked]

⚠ update ⚠
I made a different thread last week about a bad clattering noise.
Turns out my ac compressor clutch is toast.
So that wraps up this thread as well.
Glad to have it finally sorted. 😥