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  1. #1
    Veteran Member Three Rings luvsspeed's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 13 2007
    AZ Member #
    17977
    My Garage
    04 S4
    Location
    North Carolina

    Driveline question

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    I have a manual, with 90k. Over the past year and a half I have upgraded in this order, spulen rear diff mount, 034 snub mount (had shave to keep it from touching cage), 034 rubber motor and trans mounts. With each change it felt better for about a week or two and then it went back to the feel that I started with. Clunky, harsh and non smooth feeling. From everything I have read over the years, changing these things should make the shifts feel better not unchanged. Idk if I did something wrong with the installs or, if I still have a weak link somewhere.

  2. #2
    Senior Member Two Rings
    Join Date
    Apr 18 2012
    AZ Member #
    92081
    My Garage
    1995 Toyota Land Cruiser (FJ80/FZJ80)
    Location
    Central Texas

    did you also use the 034 snub mount bracket? that might get loose if it wasn't put in with Loctite.

    is the clunky feeling specifically related to shifting, or general handling and ride? you may have something like a torn suspension bushing.

    - emilio

  3. #3
    Veteran Member Three Rings luvsspeed's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 13 2007
    AZ Member #
    17977
    My Garage
    04 S4
    Location
    North Carolina

    Quote Originally Posted by emilio View Post
    did you also use the 034 snub mount bracket? that might get loose if it wasn't put in with Loctite.

    is the clunky feeling specifically related to shifting, or general handling and ride? you may have something like a torn suspension bushing.

    - emilio
    Stock bracket. Its when shifting only, also it is not a shifter issue. I have new shocks, shock mounts and control arms as of 11/14

  4. #4
    Veteran Member Three Rings luvsspeed's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 13 2007
    AZ Member #
    17977
    My Garage
    04 S4
    Location
    North Carolina

    Well turns out the shop did not tighten the cage bolts. So hopefully that will solve the problem. Now I have to check my motor mount and trans mount bolts since they installed those... smh

  5. #5
    Veteran Member Three Rings luvsspeed's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 13 2007
    AZ Member #
    17977
    My Garage
    04 S4
    Location
    North Carolina

    Well after all this time driveline clunk while shifting has not gone away or gotten any better. Honestly its making driving the car unpleasureable. I'm open to ideas and thoughts at this point.

  6. #6
    Veteran Member Four Rings
    Join Date
    Jun 18 2010
    AZ Member #
    60418
    My Garage
    2004 Boxster S Special 1953 Edition
    Location
    East of Cincinnati

    CV joints??
    Old Geezer, formerly known as Stud Muffin

  7. #7
    Veteran Member Three Rings
    Join Date
    Jan 29 2017
    AZ Member #
    391935
    My Garage
    B7 RS4, B15 Sentra Spec V
    Location
    San Antonio, TX

    Flywheel, it is a dual mass so I think that might be the issue.

  8. #8
    Veteran Member Three Rings luvsspeed's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 13 2007
    AZ Member #
    17977
    My Garage
    04 S4
    Location
    North Carolina

    It does it up shifting normally 1-4. If I am driving aggressively it doesn't really do it. If I let off the clutch slowly, it doesn't really do it. It feels really sloppy as hell.

  9. #9
    Veteran Member Three Rings luvsspeed's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 13 2007
    AZ Member #
    17977
    My Garage
    04 S4
    Location
    North Carolina

    Quote Originally Posted by QIKRNU View Post
    CV joints??
    I would have never thought it, but you might be right. I went to rotate my tires today I found that both front and rear outer cv boots on the passengers side where torn. I have owned several cars in my life and cv joint damage has always given an audible clicking. Now the dealer has just replaced the boot in the past, would it been advisable to just change both boots?

  10. #10
    Veteran Member Three Rings
    Join Date
    Feb 18 2014
    AZ Member #
    146977
    Location
    Arizona

    check for play in the joints. If they are loose they need to be replaced. If they are tight then you can disassemble and clean them and then reassemble with new grease and boots. Since they've already been open for who knows how long, I wouldn't just slap a new boot on.

  11. #11
    Veteran Member Four Rings VinnysS4's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 12 2015
    AZ Member #
    364349
    My Garage
    2004 s4 Avant, 2005.5 S4 Manual swapped, 2002 A4 3.0 6 speed, 2004 A4 1.8 5 speed
    Location
    Oregon

    Next axles can be had for less than 50 bucks off rockauto.... That's about the cost of 2 cv boot kits and way less work

  12. #12
    Veteran Member Three Rings luvsspeed's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 13 2007
    AZ Member #
    17977
    My Garage
    04 S4
    Location
    North Carolina

    Quote Originally Posted by 2004B6S4 View Post
    check for play in the joints. If they are loose they need to be replaced. If they are tight then you can disassemble and clean them and then reassemble with new grease and boots. Since they've already been open for who knows how long, I wouldn't just slap a new boot on.
    That was my thinking. Does anyone know if there is a DIY floating around for replacing the front and back?

  13. #13
    Veteran Member Three Rings luvsspeed's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 13 2007
    AZ Member #
    17977
    My Garage
    04 S4
    Location
    North Carolina

    Quote Originally Posted by VinnysS4 View Post
    Next axles can be had for less than 50 bucks off rockauto.... That's about the cost of 2 cv boot kits and way less work
    I'm always for the less work route. The only reason I was thinking boots was from the cost aspect. Wasn't trying to be cheap, I just wasn't expecting to find this and had planned to do other things. I completely forgot about rock auto, thanks for reminding me.

  14. #14
    Senior Member Two Rings richB7S4's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 16 2013
    AZ Member #
    119055
    Location
    MD

    Quote Originally Posted by luvsspeed View Post
    That was my thinking. Does anyone know if there is a DIY floating around for replacing the front and back?
    There is one in AZ, i had used it but dont have the link. Note for the front: you do not have to take off the control arms, turn the wheel full lock to the opposite side of which axle you are replacing to have room. As for the rear, i did not find one but you would have to drop the subframe at a time, maybe take off the sway bar and the rear alignment bolt in order to have room. Having a sliding hammer and bench clamp helps in removing the joints.

  15. #15
    Veteran Member Three Rings luvsspeed's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 13 2007
    AZ Member #
    17977
    My Garage
    04 S4
    Location
    North Carolina

    Quote Originally Posted by richB7S4 View Post
    There is one in AZ, i had used it but dont have the link. Note for the front: you do not have to take off the control arms, turn the wheel full lock to the opposite side of which axle you are replacing to have room. As for the rear, i did not find one but you would have to drop the subframe at a time, maybe take off the sway bar and the rear alignment bolt in order to have room. Having a sliding hammer and bench clamp helps in removing the joints.
    You seriously have to drop the subframe to do the rear?

  16. #16
    Senior Member Two Rings richB7S4's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 16 2013
    AZ Member #
    119055
    Location
    MD

    Dropped the subframe to take out springs.

  17. #17
    Veteran Member Three Rings luvsspeed's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 13 2007
    AZ Member #
    17977
    My Garage
    04 S4
    Location
    North Carolina

    Well I had to bump my old thread. I still have this issue and it is driving me crazy. Its like a bucking bronco. I have even put in carrier mount inserts. I'm at a loss. The last thing I can think of is replacing my snub mount again. When I installed it I had to shave a good amount off of it so it would not rub on the cage. This was before I changed the motor mounts. I'm open to ideas and feedback.

  18. #18
    Veteran Member Three Rings
    Join Date
    Jul 15 2015
    AZ Member #
    342719
    Location
    Rochester NY

    I have a fair amount of "slop" changing gears, gas on/off, which I think might partly be the rear diff mounts, because the front end is all new and tight. What specifically would folks recommend to check?

  19. #19
    Veteran Member Three Rings AndreNY's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 06 2005
    AZ Member #
    6000
    Location
    Boston MA

    this is my 3rd B6 S4, and they were all 6 speed, from my memory i always remember as this being the weirdest Stick car to drive. And sure it enough it is, as i just picked the car up a week ago and i'm slowly getting used to it once again. What helped me was the "tricky reset" which usually works on cars with an AUTO trans.
    Car off key in position 2 and press the gas pedal for 10 seconds, let go of the gas, switch key off (but leave in ignition for 2 minutes) what this does is re-program the tranny (which in our case doesn't do anything since we have Stick) but it also re programs the Throttle Body, which helped in my case, i also noticed that shifting gears (any gear) over 3000 RPM's pretty much smooth ens the whole process (which sucks since on my bimmers i used to shift at 2000 RPM and it was nice and smooth)

    Good Luck

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