Is this the 3.0 AVK crank lock plug? (pic)

[sinful7]

I've searched and come up with varying results- I'm doing my second TB on my 3.0, and the first time I did it with no specialty tools, with much trouble. This time, I purchased a timing tool kit and I'm all in for doing it correctly.

I'm having a hard time with this particular bolt. I removed the A/C compressor and the aux coolant pump, and I'm down to what I believe is the crank lock plug. Only problem is, I didn't fully engage my 6mm hex socket (only about 2-3mm engaged) and I attempted to loosen. I found that I've successfully mucked up the bolt's first bit of head by twisting the bit around. I'm working to clean it up to get a proper engagement, but I thought I should ask, and share a picture. Is this the crank lock plug? Because I've damaged the head, does it seem like it would be worth procuring needle-nose locking pliers to try to grip this thing out?

Thanks in advance!

[DarkoNova]

Honestly I didn't even use that tool to do my belt. I used everything else, though. Didn't have any problems.

[sinful7]

Yeah, I didn't use any tools (just lots of white paint markings and zip ties) to do the first TB job about 70k ago, but I am hoping to do the second change with all the right stuff... I'm not opposed to not locking the crank, but just for posterity sake, I'm curious. Thank you for weighing in, I appreciate the confidence.

[DarkoNova]

I honestly can't tell you if that's even the pin, everything I read said it was behind the compressor but I couldn't find it and didn't feel like moving it out of the way, lol.

Hopefully someone else will chime in, though.

[SJorge3442]

NO ONE uses this bolt. Its more important that the cams get locked down. The crank can be realigned via the timing marks on the lower pulley cover.

Here is picture of the spot.

[deyrag]

100% the bolt you are pointing to in your first post is the correct one to remove to insert the locking bolt/pin. You chewed it up because it is a torx not a 6mm hex. Don't remember the size and i lost the one from my spare block so can't check it. Will try to post a picture later showing it removed.

[SJorge3442]

100% the bolt you are pointing to in your first post is the correct one to remove to insert the locking bolt/pin. You chewed it up because it is a torx not a 6mm hex. Don't remember the size and i lost the one from my spare block so can't check it. Will try to post a picture later showing it removed.

Whoops. My bad. The way he was talking, that bolt was a bolt on the passenger side of the engine. I know realize he mentioned the aux coolant pump, which blocks the bolt. Good catch!

[john_gonzo]

Holy shit, an actual picture of the oft-debated but rarely seen bolt! Nice work OP.

For future reference, removing the AC compressor is not necessary. Here's a blurb from another thread about this.

"Installing the crankshaft locking pin T40026 is another tedious part of this job. Slide under the car by the oil filter to do this. The hole for the locking pin is rearwards and upwards from the oil filter. My car has the auxiliary coolant pump behind the oil filter. I unplug the electrical connector and remove the two mounting bolts. I leave the coolant hoses attached! Now I can push the pump aside to see where the locking pin goes. I think I push the aux pump up and forward. The crank lock hole has a bolt plugging it. Use the crankshaft pulley as a visual reference to see where the pin should be. Once you figure out which hole it is, clean the area around the bolt/plug, remove it, thread the locking pin in by hand. The crankshaft must be at TDC. To fully seat the locking pin, use a breaker bar to rock the crank back and forth slightly while turning the locking pin."

Source: Crank-Seal-Replacement_3-0L-AVK-Oil-Leak-Madness

[SlickFix]

When I did my TB recently, I decided that it was too much trouble to try to remove that bolt, so I ended up not using the crank lock pin. Like SJorge says, just make sure that the cams are locked down.

[sinful7]

Thank you for all the responses, and the confirmation. I might still try to see if I can get a torx in there and turn the plug out (made it this far), but I'll proceed with confidence that it's do-able without.
Cheers!

[q2quest]

I just did my timing belt and used the locking pin because I replaced the crank seal. As far as I can tell there would be no need to lock the crank with that tool unless you need to remove the crank gear for seal replacement. It was a huge pain in the ass and I ended up stripping the threads in the hole when inserting the tool. I used a long, similarly sized drill bit to keep the crankshaft from rotating once I realized the locking tool threads had stripped. If I could do it over again I would have left the crank seal alone. It wasn't leaking, but I wanted to replace it for good measure and ended up buggering the seal the first time. The new teflon seals are very difficult to install correctly. Then I had to use JB weld when reinstalling the plug. Also, I do not believe it is a torx bolt. As I recall it is a hex. My two cents.

[sinful7]

Good to know! I just now tried to slip a torx in there to no avail, the engagement on the head is just not there. On this advice, I won't be doing the crank seal either- it's in good shape and I just want to get this thing back on the road. Next stop: timing belt off. After reassembly I'll be putting a new AT filter/pan gasket/fluid in. O_o

[sinful7]

Quick follow up- I see the crank gear is notched, so does that mean realignment would be the same whether or not I pull the crank gear?

[q2quest]

Yes, the crank gear can only slide on oriented in one position. However, in order to get the crank gear off you would need to remove the crank bolt, and that cannot be accomplished without the locking tool because otherwise the crank will rotate. As long as the crank gear is lined up where it is supposed to be at top dead center before you remove the timing belt you do not need to worry about the crank gear moving around, it won't. No need to remove the crank gear at all.

[sinful7]

Yes, the crank gear can only slide on oriented in one position. However, in order to get the crank gear off you would need to remove the crank bolt, and that cannot be accomplished without the locking tool because otherwise the crank will rotate. As long as the crank gear is lined up where it is supposed to be at top dead center before you remove the timing belt you do not need to worry about the crank gear moving around, it won't. No need to remove the crank gear at all.

Thank you for your help. I've opted not to do the crank seal at all - it's not leaking. Pin cover will stay in place.

[deyrag]

Just for future reference here is a pic showing the location