Total I spent about $380 and took about a day and a half, mostly due to customizing things and several trips to home depot. It can be done in a day.
Parts:
HE:
http://mercracing.net/products-page/heat-exchangers/
Reservoir:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/c...233s/overview/
I also bought the $50 cap, but you could find one for cheaper if you wanted. The reservoir works great, but is a very tight fit even after some modifying. Still, it holds a good amount of coolant and is cool to the touch after use.
This would probably be easier to install for about the same price:
http://mercracing.net/products-page/...nd-accesories/
HE Bracket (made from home depot parts):
4 X 10in corner brace
2 X M8 1.25 X 75mm hex bolts, M8 lock washers and M8 1.25mm nuts
2 X M8 1.25 X 16mm hex bolts, M8 1.25 nuts
4 X M6 1.0 X 12mm hex bolts, M6 lock washers
loctite
coolant parts:
about 8-10 ft of ¾ inch coolant hose
10-12 ¾ inch hose clamps
1 X ¾ inch 90 degree elbow coupler
2 X ¾ inch straight coupler
¾ hose suspension clamps (use as necessary to protect the hoses)
coolant (I got from dealer)
tools:
mm ratchet set or box wrenches
5/16 drill bit/drill
dremel with cutting wheel vs angle grinder with cutting wheel
2 C clamps
Vice grips
exacto knife or something to cut plastic
funnel
Bracket construction:
I would build this before even starting on the car.
1. cut 7.25 inch from each bracket
2. Overlap the brackets and mock it up against the HE. The holes will not line up. I used zip ties to hold them together.
3. Mark where you will need to drill the holes to attach the HE on all 4 sides.
4. Mark/use one of the holes per bracket for the short M8 bolts. I used one of the middle ones.
5. Drill all the holes, attach the M8 bolts and attach both brackets to the HE using the M6 bolts. I would not use Loctite at this point.
HE INSTALL
1. remove front bumper per instructions here: http://uspmotorsports.com/downloads/...structions.pdf
2. I lined the HE up more to the passenger side because the temp sensor on the driver side will impede the upper hose when installed
3. Use the clamps on the bracket to line up how high you want the HE to sit. I was able to line up the middle of the crash bar with the lower hole on the heat exchanger brackets. I drilled out that lower hole on each bracket and then drilled corresponding holes in the middle of the crash bar. The ridge in the middle keeps the bolt from moving, which is nice.
4. Attach the HE to the crash bar with the long M8 bolts. I did not tighten everything down yet with Loctite but you could. I also attached a mesh screen in between the crash bar and the bracket that covered the area including the stock HE. I highly recommend doing this while you are already there.
5. You may also want to paint the bracket black. I ended up wrapping it in matte black high-strength tape because paint or plastidip would require me to take the bumper back off for reapplication. You cannot tell a difference when the bumper is back on the car.
Hose install:
A quick side note for the B8.5 stock supercharger cooling system: The bottom tube on the stock HE is coming FROM the s/c and thus carries hot coolant. Obviously then the top hose is carrying cool coolant TO the pump. (Also remember that the lines on the supercharger are reversed. Ie. bottom is cool and top is hot).
1. Cut some of the protective plastic out on the driver side by the crash bar to allow hoses to pass from the new HE to the stock HE
2. clamp the hose that is connected to the top of the stock HE and pull it off. Some coolant will spill so put a small oil pan or something else under it. Keep it clamped.
3. Mock up the new coolant hose for how much you will need to run between the BOTTOM of the NEW HE and TOP of the STOCK HE. Make sure there are no kinks. I used about 2-3ft so it would not kink.
4. Cut the hose and attach via hose clamps. I also used some of the suspension clamps in areas where the hose would contact any hard plastic or metal parts
5. Do the same thing for the top hose. It will run side by side with the hose you just installed. This will connect to the hose that is currently clamped, but not yet.
6. When you are happy with how this hose will run, attach the top hose to the new HE. Mix the coolant and pour it into this hose with the funnel. I tried to hit the new HE several times to allow the air to escape. Fill until the hose is mostly full
7. You are going to need to pass the hose through the area to where it will connect. I found the best way to do this is to kink it with your hand so the fluid will not come out and hand it to someone else on the other side. Then clamp it. Use a straight coupler/hose clamps to attach both clamped hoses. Then unclamp them. This new “hose” should be running from the top of the new HE to the bottom of the T that goes into the inlet of the pump.
8. At this point if you do not want to add a reservoir, this system should function well and you can bolt everything back up/check for leaks while running the motor. See next section for the reservoir.
Reservoir Install
1. I’ll save you the detail but the Canton reservoir took a bit of finagling to make it fit right. I had to dremel some of the plastic by the fan shroud in order for the output hose to run without kinking. It is still a good option but expect some degree of cutting/customization. Also make sure to put it low enough or your hood won’t close. Ask me how I know.
2. Once you have the reservoir in place, mock up how much hose you will need and cut. The TOP of the reservoir will attach to the HOSE that is attached to the TOP of the pump via straight coupler. (Alternatively, if you wanted to divorce the coolant system, you could cap the upper hose portion of the T and add a 90 degree elbow in place of the T). The BOTTOM of the reservoir will attach to the top (inlet) of the PUMP. Again, make sure there are no kinks or places where the hose contacts sharp places.
3. Attach both hoses with hose clamps and use suspension clamps for protection of the hoses as needed. I needed to use a 90 degree coupler from the reservoir so that the hose would not kink.
4. Fill up the reservoir about halfway
Finishing
1. Recheck all hoses/clamps
2. If you have not already done so, use Loctite on the bracket/bolts and tighten HE in place. Also put on mesh screen if you want.
3. Start the car if you want and check for leaks. The pump will not turn on until at normal op temp, but this is just preliminary.
4. If you want, let it warm up. I watched the reservoir at idle when it was at normal temp and there was no flow. However if you have someone else get on the throttle more than about 20% the pump will kick on and you should see coolant circulate in the pump.
5. Once you are happy with the system, put the bumper back on.
6. Keep about a half gallon of coolant in the car for the first week. I had to fill up the stock reservoir with 1-2 pints coolant.
Next to come: logs. Working on using the Torque app on windows.
Just from seat of pants feel, it was 90+ degrees here yesterday and today. Felt like the car was in 70 degree weather even in back to back runs. I was able to open the hood after driving and keep my hand on the aluminum reservoir. It was ¾ full and circulating coolant.
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