B8 A4 Piston Replacement

[tbroesch]

Hello Audi world, here's a little background. I have a 2010 A4 2.0t that was consuming oil at about 500 miles per quart. I have 102000 miles so AOA would not help me out. I have begun the tear down process, but I would like to know if anyone has completed this job themselves (not through a dealer). I'm looking for tips, tricks, hints. I also would like to know if there is a good place to go to get torque values. Specifically for the head bolts, connecting rods, valve cover, etc.

Thanks in advance for all of your help!

Tyler

[The Infiltrator]

Here is a big thread on the issue, there might be info you're looking for. I remember I asked the same question in there and the price will make your head hurt, might as well build it for power while you're in there.
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...umption-Thread

[tbroesch]

I saw this one. It seems that it mostly involves how to work with the dealer. I'm hoping to find someone who did the work themselves.

[The Infiltrator]

I saw this one. It seems that it mostly involves how to work with the dealer. I'm hoping to find someone who did the work themselves.

I got ya, there are a few in here that have rebuilt their motors and some because of the same issue you're in.

[tbroesch]

Hopefully I can get in touch with some of them. Thanks for the info!

[Allowencer]

Hi Tyler,

My first question to you: have you ever rebuilt a motor?
Second question: have you bought the special tools needed to disassemble the motor properly? I have a DIY 'motor' thread (till in working progress) but a chunk of the dis-assembly is covered. I explain what is needed.

You have 2 options on your rebuild: quick and dirty or complete.

Quick and dirty would be to ensure cylinder walls are not scored and look healthy. If so, slap in the newly revised pistons and piston rings, reuse the same bearings, etc., new bolts and away you go. Now, the 'engine builder' in me wouldn't recommend this and at the mileage you are at, I would advise a more in-depth build. Meaning, measure all tolerances so you 'know' what you are working with and can safely sleep at night knowing that a 'quick and dirty' build will last you for some time.

The other method is to do a complete rebuild which requires a complete tear down of the whole short block. Correct deck height, hone/re-hash cylinder walls, polish crank, re-peen or buy new rods, new bearings, check tolerances, the whole 9-yards.

Also, no matter what method you choose, replace ALL hardware (bolts, gaskets, guides, chain) and go with the latest timing tensioner as the one you have is a ticking timebomb and will fail on you.

[pierreb]

You might want to check your regional boards for a local indie that might have done the job and can give you pointers or a fair price. Not just AZ, but also check QW and AW.

[tbroesch]

I have not rebuilt a car engine before. I've done a lot of other vehicle maintenance, but nothing this in depth. I have access to a full array of "standard type" tools and a lift. I ordered the polydrive tool , but it hasn't arrived yet. I took the harmonic balancer of with an impact while the car was in gear (not my best decision I understand, but I had the help that day to work on the car and no tool...).

My timing chain, tensioner, guides, and intake valves were all replaced by the other owner at 88,000 miles due to the car going out of time. So in other words the top end and timing were just replaced within the last year/ 14,000 mies.

Lastly, I was planning on going with the "quick and dirty" approach (with the understanding that all fasteners and gaskets will be changed).

Oddly enough, I actually used your DIY 'motor' thread to get as far as I have. So thanks for that already! lol

[tbroesch]

You might want to check your regional boards for a local indie that might have done the job and can give you pointers or a fair price. Not just AZ, but also check QW and AW.

What is QW? I have looked a little bit at AudiWorld, but I'll have to dive more into it. Thanks!

[pierreb]

Quattroworld

[The Infiltrator]

Hi Tyler,

My first question to you: have you ever rebuilt a motor?
Second question: have you bought the special tools needed to disassemble the motor properly? I have a DIY 'motor' thread (till in working progress) but a chunk of the dis-assembly is covered. I explain what is needed.

You have 2 options on your rebuild: quick and dirty or complete.

Quick and dirty would be to ensure cylinder walls are not scored and look healthy. If so, slap in the newly revised pistons and piston rings, reuse the same bearings, etc., new bolts and away you go. Now, the 'engine builder' in me wouldn't recommend this and at the mileage you are at, I would advise a more in-depth build. Meaning, measure all tolerances so you 'know' what you are working with and can safely sleep at night knowing that a 'quick and dirty' build will last you for some time.

The other method is to do a complete rebuild which requires a complete tear down of the whole short block. Correct deck height, hone/re-hash cylinder walls, polish crank, re-peen or buy new rods, new bearings, check tolerances, the whole 9-yards.

Also, no matter what method you choose, replace ALL hardware (bolts, gaskets, guides, chain) and go with the latest timing tensioner as the one you have is a ticking timebomb and will fail on you.

There you are, I was trying to link your build thread and lettuce but you already got here before I could.

[Allowencer]

I have not rebuilt a car engine before. I've done a lot of other vehicle maintenance, but nothing this in depth. I have access to a full array of "standard type" tools and a lift. I ordered the polydrive tool , but it hasn't arrived yet. I took the harmonic balancer of with an impact while the car was in gear (not my best decision I understand, but I had the help that day to work on the car and no tool...).

My timing chain, tensioner, guides, and intake valves were all replaced by the other owner at 88,000 miles due to the car going out of time. So in other words the top end and timing were just replaced within the last year/ 14,000 mies.

Lastly, I was planning on going with the "quick and dirty" approach (with the understanding that all fasteners and gaskets will be changed).

Oddly enough, I actually used your DIY 'motor' thread to get as far as I have. So thanks for that already! lol

You are going to need many more tools.

The crank pulley should have only been removed once it is set at TDC location.

What you need to avoid is rotating the motor over, once the cam timing isn't connected anymore and smacking into valves. In addition, it's a "known" starting point for when you reassemble everything.

[tbroesch]

You are going to need many more tools.

The crank pulley should have only been removed once it is set at TDC location.

What you need to avoid is rotating the motor over, once the cam timing isn't connected anymore and smacking into valves. In addition, it's a "known" starting point for when you reassemble everything.

Because I am removing the pistons, I will have to rotate the crank accordingly, correct? Will I be alright as long as I make sure the cyl #1 is at TDC when I put everything back in time? Note: I will have the head off before I rotate the crank at all.

[Allowencer]

True, but when you remove the cam timing chain circuit, the cams will rotate to a 'neutral' position, based on valve spring seat pressure/load, valves will open up. You want to make sure Cylinder #1 is at TDC to ensure contact isn't made.

[Homer_J]

When I did my timing chain job, I bought a 1 day subscription from Erwin.audi.com ($35 or so IIRC) and spent a couple hours saving every B8 manual I could find for future use. It has all the torque numbers and procedures if you dig for them. Paid for itself a bunch of times already

[tbroesch]

When I did my timing chain job, I bought a 1 day subscription from Erwin.audi.com ($35 or so IIRC) and spent a couple hours saving every B8 manual I could find for future use. It has all the torque numbers and procedures if you dig for them. Paid for itself a bunch of times already

Thanks Homer_J, I will log in to it and start compiling them. Did you replace your pistons and rings also?

[Homer_J]

Thanks Homer_J, I will log in to it and start compiling them. Did you replace your pistons and rings also?

I was one of the few lucky ones who got them replaced by the dealer outside the mileage somehow. So I can't advise much on the job, sorry.

I've used the manuals to replace my timing chain and tensioner and remove the camshafts, and I thought they were pretty decent. Some of the info is a bit scattered and requires jumping around. Also, some of the other engine variations (like the 1.8) are thrown in the same chapters so you need to make sure you're using the proper steps.

I bought a CAEB specialty tool kit on ebay for 200 bucks before doing my work too. (Cam locks, cam actuator pins, giant annoying wrench for turning the crank, etc) Not sure if you need all that though...

[GTRAFF]

I rebuilt my 2009 A$Q about a year and a half ago. I had to buy the head bolt tool and borrow the cam phase bolt removal tool from local guy who rebuilt his engine. My car had about 125,000 when the oil consumption got about like yours. I replaced pistons and rings, changed rear main seal, water pump (just because it was easy to do with the head off), timing chain tensioner and bearing bridge (my oil screen had fallen out but did no damage).

I bought a copy of elsawin from an ebay seller and followed the instructions. My daughter, who drives this car, helped by bagging parts and taking pictures as we tore it apart. Took about 5 days. I had one screw left over from somewhere around the bumper.

The manual says you can remove the head bolts through the cam cover but my head bolts were too big so I pulled the head. Left the manifolds attached. My only problem was I missed two ground connections putting it back together. One for the starter and one under the relays in the ecu box. Took another day to figure out those two.

I had rebuilt engines before, have lots of tools, air tools, and three car garage so it was not too bad of a job. I left the radiator support in place and pulled the engine out but getting it back in was tough. Alignment is the hard part. Next time I might just take the radiator support off altogether.

[tbroesch]

I rebuilt my 2009 A$Q about a year and a half ago. I had to buy the head bolt tool and borrow the cam phase bolt removal tool from local guy who rebuilt his engine. My car had about 125,000 when the oil consumption got about like yours. I replaced pistons and rings, changed rear main seal, water pump (just because it was easy to do with the head off), timing chain tensioner and bearing bridge (my oil screen had fallen out but did no damage).

I bought a copy of elsawin from an ebay seller and followed the instructions. My daughter, who drives this car, helped by bagging parts and taking pictures as we tore it apart. Took about 5 days. I had one screw left over from somewhere around the bumper.

The manual says you can remove the head bolts through the cam cover but my head bolts were too big so I pulled the head. Left the manifolds attached. My only problem was I missed two ground connections putting it back together. One for the starter and one under the relays in the ecu box. Took another day to figure out those two.

I had rebuilt engines before, have lots of tools, air tools, and three car garage so it was not too bad of a job. I left the radiator support in place and pulled the engine out but getting it back in was tough. Alignment is the hard part. Next time I might just take the radiator support off altogether.

What does the Cam phase bolt removal tool look like? How hard was it to get the timing back insync for you?

Thanks for the input!

[GTRAFF]

The timing was easy. I took all of the chains off and put everything back together on the engine stand. With all the front covers and oil pan off it is very easy to do the chains. I like the special links that make it easy to do the chains. The special tool for the intake camshaft was the T10352. There are two versions of the tool. Can't remove the special plug without it.

[tbroesch]

The timing was easy. I took all of the chains off and put everything back together on the engine stand. With all the front covers and oil pan off it is very easy to do the chains. I like the special links that make it easy to do the chains. The special tool for the intake camshaft was the T10352. There are two versions of the tool. Can't remove the special plug without it.

After the repair, how is your oil consumption?

[tbroesch]

After the repair, how is your oil consumption?

Which version of Elsawin had everything you needed?

[TFSIQ]

I bought my manual from factory manuals dot com. They print the manual from audi dot ag for your car vin number. 8669pages. All necessary torgue settings and stuff can be found there. Made a big help because there is for example part for engine disassembly /assembly. From step to step.. My car is 2010 155kw petrol quattro. In cylinder head you have 2 ways to take it off, if you have assemly clearance option"exchaust camshaft should have openings for cylinder head bolts to take whole cylinder head off, if not like mine, you have to tear down cylinder head and camshafts. Ac and hydraulic steering pumps can be bolted off from engine an secures to car frame so you dont have to open circuits. Front end to service position and all connectors etc hoses off, Electrics can ce taken off woth engine, few hard places to ger for excample reverse gear switch in gearbox. Etc. I would not have tried before reading manual. Now pistons in hand and new parts ordered. About 2000€ fix with new pistons conrods seals timing head and all renewable bolts

[GTRAFF]

I have the "Audi Service Manual v10" Covers everything pretty well. Oil consumption is zero now between 5000 mile oil changes. Car currently has 180,000 miles. Every month or so I am getting a underboost code so I suspect the turbo may be getting worn or perhaps the wastegate is not closing all the way. I plan on checking the wastegate at next oil change. I only use Mobil 1 0w40 and change oil every 5000 miles.

[tbroesch]

Hey everyone, I figured I provide an update on my B8.
I performed the piston replacement and used Integrated Engineering H beam rods and Mahle pistons. I did not have the bores honed because they measured pretty round yet. I used a flexible hone to deglaze the walls.

I have since put on 7000 miles with out a drop of oil burnt.

Feel free to ask whatever questions you have.

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[SJ250]

Thanks for the info in this thread guys. I'm likely going to be doing this myself also. Just curious where everyone found as the cheapest place to buy the parts. I will likely go with the Mahle/IE combo also. ECS is pretty much the only place I've seen so far.

[pierreb]

I have the "Audi Service Manual v10" Covers everything pretty well. Oil consumption is zero now between 5000 mile oil changes. Car currently has 180,000 miles. Every month or so I am getting a underboost code so I suspect the turbo may be getting worn or perhaps the wastegate is not closing all the way. I plan on checking the wastegate at next oil change. I only use Mobil 1 0w40 and change oil every 5000 miles.

If not the wastegate, check/clean MAP (not MAF) sensor with electronic cleaner, also inspect its o-ring. Driver side, below the ps reservoir. Logging the car for boost requested vs actual would be a good idea.

[roxta]

I had a shop rebuild mine with IE rods, oversized Mahle Pistons, Ferrrea valves and springs, new bearings. Bore, honed and decked.
Prior to the rebuild it was burning 1L of oil per 500km.
I've done about 12000km since the rebuild and it is burning 1L per 4000km.
I went APR stage 2 about 7000km ago and no change in oil consumption.
I know turbo engines burn oil, is this amount "normal"?

[Project Quattro]

I had a shop rebuild mine with IE rods, oversized Mahle Pistons, Ferrrea valves and springs, new bearings. Bore, honed and decked.
Prior to the rebuild it was burning 1L of oil per 500km.
I've done about 12000km since the rebuild and it is burning 1L per 4000km.
I went APR stage 2 about 7000km ago and no change in oil consumption.
I know turbo engines burn oil, is this amount "normal"?

Depends who you want to believe. 1L/4,000km is within spec for this engine, per Audi. But later engines and repaired ones don't generally burn a drop, in my experience.


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[pierreb]

Depends who you want to believe. 1L/4,000km is within spec for this engine, per Audi. But later engines and repaired ones don't generally burn a drop, in my experience.

Had mine rebuilt with oem parts at 120k. 50k later it still doesn't burn a drop of oil.

[blgilles]

pierreb - do you know exactly what parts were used? I'm trying to get a gauge on the cost if I were to do this myself.

[Theiceman]

Im in the same boat need to do it myself. I saw the list once and it was really long.


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[Theiceman]

So at a very high level look, you are pulling the engine out , taking the head off, taking the pan off. Undoing rod bolts, pulling pistons out the top And replacing ?


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[blgilles]

Ya, that’s right. I’m starting a google doc with the parts list and where to get them the cheapest. PM me your email if you want to help along with the doc together? I have the replacement rods, Pistons, and piston rings so found so far. Going to start working on all the other deals/bolts/etc. that will be needed probably next week.

I have a practice engine to take apart and put back together, which is nice, so will probably do that one first, to get all the techniques down, and then do it with my engine later and with new parts. I’m looking at probably over 800 miles/quart right now and perhaps better. So I won’t be doing my motor right away; I’m just trying to know what it’ll entail when I probably have to do it sometime later.

[Theiceman]

Im definitely interested. I took my car about 80 miles tiday and dropped half a quart

Yup 80 miles. Going to have the bores scoped. If they are scored the engine is toast.


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[jfo]

Ya, that’s right. I’m starting a google doc with the parts list and where to get them the cheapest. PM me your email if you want to help along with the doc together? I have the replacement rods, Pistons, and piston rings so found so far. Going to start working on all the other deals/bolts/etc. that will be needed probably next week.

I have a practice engine to take apart and put back together, which is nice, so will probably do that one first, to get all the techniques down, and then do it with my engine later and with new parts. I’m looking at probably over 800 miles/quart right now and perhaps better. So I won’t be doing my motor right away; I’m just trying to know what it’ll entail when I probably have to do it sometime later.

Send me a pm with an email address and I can send you the parts list from my stage 2 job. You also may want to consider just dropping in a newer, used engine.

[blgilles]

Thanks. Just emailed. Yes - a motor swap might be better. So far all I’ve found are pretty pricey... I’m probably doing it wrong. Recommendations on where to search?

[jfo]

Thanks. Just emailed. Yes - a motor swap might be better. So far all I’ve found are pretty pricey... I’m probably doing it wrong. Recommendations on where to search?

There are several guy's here that have done swaps and I've seen LKQ recommended. You can swap in up to a 2015 I think, with minor changes. Others can confirm the MY's that work.

Scroll to post 866 for an overview on the swap.....
https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...-Beyond/page22

[Theiceman]

Im in the same boat. Scoping will help make the decision in which way to go. Thats what audi does too.
After they scope it either pistons/ rings or new engine


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[Quattro420]

If it where my car I’d just get new pistons and rings new timing chains new balance shafts and tensioner etc and then drive it.