Air in the clutch line?

[DarkoNova]

Lately I've been noticing that the clutch is kind of iffy...sometimes it's nice and stiff and only has what feels like an inch or so of freeplay before actually disengaging when I press the pedal.

Other times it feels like I press it a good 2" before anything happens and it grabs almost immediately off the floor. I haven't actually measured freeplay, though, so these are just guesses.

I never remember to try pumping the pedal to see if the pressure builds, and now I have to wait a day before driving it because the windshield was just replaced.

I guess I could go out and just pump it to see if it's stiff or not...

I'm just wondering if I need vcds to bleed the clutch/brakes and if this sounds like possible air in the lines to you guys.

I've always bled brakes/clutches the old fashioned way, but I remember when I had my Taurus, the "proper" way to bleed everything was with a scan tool that could cycle the ABS. Just want to know if that's the case for the A4, too.

[old guy]

No VCDS needed to bleed the clutch (or the brakes for that matter). The best way to bleed the clutch or the brakes on the B6 is to use a power bleeder. The Motive Model 0100 works exceptionally well.

[G-Ride]

Lately I've been noticing that the clutch is kind of iffy...sometimes it's nice and stiff and only has what feels like an inch or so of freeplay before actually disengaging when I press the pedal.

Other times it feels like I press it a good 2" before anything happens and it grabs almost immediately off the floor. I haven't actually measured freeplay, though, so these are just guesses.

I never remember to try pumping the pedal to see if the pressure builds, and now I have to wait a day before driving it because the windshield was just replaced.

I guess I could go out and just pump it to see if it's stiff or not...

I'm just wondering if I need vcds to bleed the clutch/brakes and if this sounds like possible air in the lines to you guys.

I've always bled brakes/clutches the old fashioned way, but I remember when I had my Taurus, the "proper" way to bleed everything was with a scan tool that could cycle the ABS. Just want to know if that's the case for the A4, too.

You'll only need a scan tool if you run the reservoir dry when doing brakes. OG is on it, the Motive Bleeder makes life easy.

I found this thread particularly usefull when I bled my clutch recently.