S7 vs tuned A7 with exhaust

[Tman007]

I've been contemplating upgrading from A7 to S7. In conversations with my dealer friend (who I trust), to my surprise he recommended that I just add a tune and exhaust to my current A7, and save my money for the future jump to RS7. In his view, the delta $ for S7 isn't worth it - compared to a tuned A7 with exhaust...

Any thoughts from you who have owned both?

[SlickMachine]

Sounds like pretty sage advice to me. Stage 2+ (APR) on the 3.0T is right about at the same output numbers as the stock S7, although I'm sure you knew that. Saving for the RS7 sounds like the best idea in the world.

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[RAF_S7]

Ive had both, and moved from a 2014 3.0T A7 to the 2016 S7 within 6 months of A7 purchase.

The S7 is a similar shape to the A7. Everything else is better.

You can tune the 3.0T as much as you want but there is a limit to what you can do with the superchargers (other then change the pulley wheel), its still a 3.0T V6 and wont match the 4.0TT in power, engine sound or enjoyment.

The RS7 although similar, is a completely different beast to the S7, both in performance and price. I'll enjoy my S7 for at least another 18 months, then if funds allow go RS7

[MikeDwerks]

Have had my A6 stg 2 apr for a while now and have been shopping for a 13-14 s6 and have driven a few so far. They might feel around the same power level after 5k-5.5k rpm's, still giving the edge to the stock s6. but in the normal range of spirited driving 3k-5k rpm's the torque of the s6 is in a whole other level and feels considerably faster. And for myself, that is going to tune the car regardless, it does not make sense to compare tuned to stock. There is no way I could leave the s6 stock. I would also say that I bet in a year or two Rs6/7 turbo upgrades and other turbo upgrades wil be perfected and lower cost, maybe even flex fuel capable. A 600awhp and 700awtq s6 will be not too hard or expensive to achieve and the 3.0t will probably never go much further than it is now. Don't get me wrong, stg 2 3.0t is fun car and a good choice but if you have a thirst for making your car faster it won't quite quench it IMO.

[agent47]

Although it is good advice but tuned vs stock comparison is not fair tbh. If I were to tune my 3.0T, why wouldn't I tune my 4.0TT? There is another thing though- S6 vs S7 price difference just seems ridiculous to me. But thats just me. Also, if you look at it, you can save for a future RS7 purchase but like a lot of members have mentioned on these forums, RS is going to be a lot more money to maintain due to frequent brake jobs and such. Multiple factors to consider on either of the 3 cars.

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[SunDevil]

Kind of like going from the regular Porsche Carrera (A7)to the Carrera S (S7). Why not go all the way to the Turbo (RS7)? In the end .... it's all about the coin.

[S2020]

Although it is good advice but tuned vs stock comparison is not fair tbh. If I were to tune my 3.0T, why wouldn't I tune my 4.0TT? There is another thing though- S6 vs S7 price difference just seems ridiculous to me. But thats just me. Also, if you look at it, you can save for a future RS7 purchase but like a lot of members have mentioned on these forums, RS is going to be a lot more money to maintain due to frequent brake jobs and such. Multiple factors to consider on either of the 3 cars.

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IMO it's a very fair comparison. OP has "x" amount of cash burning a hole in his pocket. He wants a faster car than the A7 currently is. He can
1. tune is current ride, A7
2. buy a new ride, S7
he's not asking if a tuned S7 is faster than a tuned A7. He's asking if it's better to tune current car or get a new car.

[luv2sleep]

It's never going be to enough. I'd save my coin and stay with the tuned A7. Save up for some other monster with bigger balls. I came from an A6 to my S6. I love my S6 more than I could ever love my A6 but now I want more power. Human nature, I suppose. I don't think I'll ever be a 100% happy until I get my 2 door supercar, which may be never.

[amelen]

Not apples to apples but I went from an A7 (and drove a few with a tune) to an S6. It was definitely worth the upgrade for me. Air suspension and DSG tranny alone make it worthwhile I think.

[durfA4]

What about a stage III supercharger upgrade on an A7?

That should fix the low-end and top end output of the 3.0t, (480hp~) for $10k. It is still not enough difference to fully justify the cost of an S7 for the transmission and suspension.

The best cars are special in many small ways that make these Aseries cars feel slightly inferior for good reason due to the cost difference.

The A7 is different from the A6 is the body design but it the cost for an S6 is about the same as an A7

[SlickMachine]

All great points, but if the OP has his/her sights set on an eventual RS7, how is spending that delta on an S7 right now worth it when you can get close for 4100$ (stage 2+ exhaust), and keep the rest for the RS fund?
Quicker to end goal staying with A7.

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[Tman007]

Thanks, guys, for all the inputs. This has me leaning toward keepng my A7 and tuning it, while growing my RS7 fund. Since I only put on 10k miles/year, I should be able to get a few more years of use with the upgrade. Then RS7! (by then I guess it'll be a C8!)

[swope]

If you really want to save for an RS7, don't spend another dollar on your A7 and don't trade it for an S7. Any other option is throwing money away and making it more difficult to obtain that RS.

[Loe]

If you want to go to the "extreme" on the 3.0T, purchase a GIAC or APR file (they are the most aggressive in terms of, well every tunable table to be honest), add their respective S/C pulley, and then add the biggest overdrive crank pulley such as a KI 203 mm or a Fluidampr 204mm and you'll have an aggressive pulley ratio to spin the S/C to approx 22,900rpm @ and the engine's 6,400rpm upshift point.

...I'm using the term "extreme" loosely here because at 22,900rpm, you aren't even spinning the Eaton TVS-R1320 to the max with the biggest pulley ratio currently available since you all can't spin the engine to 7,000-7,200rpm like the B8/8.5 S4/S5 guys.

[SlickMachine]

If you want to go to the "extreme" on the 3.0T, purchase a GIAC or APR file (they are the most aggressive in terms of, well every tunable table to be honest), add their respective S/C pulley, and then add the biggest overdrive crank pulley such as a KI 203 mm or a Fluidampr 204mm and you'll have an aggressive pulley ratio to spin the S/C to approx 22,900rpm @ and the engine's 6,400rpm upshift point.

...I'm using the term "extreme" loosely here because at 22,900rpm, you aren't even spinning the Eaton TVS-R1320 to the max with the biggest pulley ratio currently available since you all can't spin the engine to 7,000-7,200rpm like the B8/8.5 S4/S5 guys.

My understanding with the way the supercharger and computer works is that adding a crank pulley to an APR stage 2 motor would indeed spin the blower faster... but the computer would just open the diverter valve and blow off the extra boost created that the tune wasn't designed to use.

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[Js59]

What about a stage III supercharger upgrade on an A7?

That should fix the low-end and top end output of the 3.0t, (480hp~) for $10k. It is still not enough difference to fully justify the cost of an S7 for the transmission and suspension.

The best cars are special in many small ways that make these Aseries cars feel slightly inferior for good reason due to the cost difference.

The A7 is different from the A6 is the body design but it the cost for an S6 is about the same as an A7

I think since the notion of cost has been introduced by the OP, you have to think about the "exit" of the car as well. IMO, spending 5 or 10k on modifying an A6 will not increase its resale - and in fact, it may decrease it. So, when looking at heavily modifying a vehicle, I view those types of mods as a sunk cost - especially when the OP acknowledges the concept of upgrading/progressing down the road. An S model might cost 15k more to buy, but it's worth a lot more upon sale vs. sinking 10k in mods into an A6 and getting -0- or a negative return on that. My advice - get an S model (and 6's are much cheaper than 7's) and get a tune - that should keep you happy for a while and still get a good resale if the RS is ever something you buy.

[Serpent]

If your goal is RS7 - then you don't spend any money on the A7.

If your goal is more power - then you spend the money on the A7 and in 6 months want more power and go deeper into the rabbit hole.

[Delurker]

I think since the notion of cost has been introduced by the OP, you have to think about the "exit" of the car as well. IMO, spending 5 or 10k on modifying an A6 will not increase its resale - and in fact, it may decrease it. So, when looking at heavily modifying a vehicle, I view those types of mods as a sunk cost - especially when the OP acknowledges the concept of upgrading/progressing down the road. An S model might cost 15k more to buy, but it's worth a lot more upon sale vs. sinking 10k in mods into an A6 and getting -0- or a negative return on that. My advice - get an S model (and 6's are much cheaper than 7's) and get a tune - that should keep you happy for a while and still get a good resale if the RS is ever something you buy.

<-- Nods in agreement.

[Sd76]

S7 hands down. I just test drove one today after having a brand new a7 for 8 mos.... S7 is the way to go and imho no need for the rs7 unless you have money to spend but I wish I would if just purchased the s7 from the get go!
Again I don't think you will get the same engine sound that the s7 has stock vs putting an exhaust in on an A

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[Loe]

My understanding with the way the supercharger and computer works is that adding a crank pulley to an APR stage 2 motor would indeed spin the blower faster... but the computer would just open the diverter valve and blow off the extra boost created that the tune wasn't designed to use.

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I've logged C7 A6 3.0t with an APR2, APR pulley, JHM 179mm crank, you guys don't rev high enough to see boost bleed with this combination.

With a larger crank pulley than a JHM, stack it with a CW to control the bleed at full-throttle.

[SlickMachine]

I've logged C7 A6 3.0t with an APR2, APR pulley, JHM 179mm crank, you guys don't rev high enough to see boost bleed with this combination.

Good to know.

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[SlickMachine]

I've logged C7 A6 3.0t with an APR2, APR pulley, JHM 179mm crank, you guys don't rev high enough to see boost bleed with this combination.

With a larger crank pulley than a JHM, stack it with a CW to control the bleed at full-throttle.

CW?

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