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  1. #1121
    Veteran Member Three Rings Chillaxin's Avatar
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    Hello All,

    I figured I would share my parts list for my planned chain replacement on my 2012 avant. I figured while it's open, might as well change everything in there. I think this is a complete list, but if anyone sees an issue, please let me know. This can hopefully help others since the audi parts site sucks huge!

    Is it recommended to remove the oil screen from the cam bridge? I've read some techs recommended it to prevent screen material going to the cams if/when it breaks down.

    How likely is it that the check valve in the bridge has broken?

    Are there any tips for removing the lower cover without bending it? Use a heat gun and razor blade to break the sealant?

    Parts List.PNG

    Description Part Number

    Cam timing Chain
    Upper Timing Chain 06K109158BE
    Chain Guide (Right) 06H109469AP
    Chain Guide (Upper) 06H109469T
    Chain Guide (Tensioner) 06H109509Q
    Cam Chain Tensioner 06K109467K


    Balance Chain
    Balance Shaft Chain 06K109158BS
    Chain Guide BS (right) 06H109469AH
    Chain Guide BS (upper) 06H109469AQ
    Chain Guide BS Tensioner 06H109509P
    Balance Shaft Chain Tensioner 06H109467AR


    Oil Chain
    Oil Chain Guide/Tensioner 06K109507F 06H109507M
    built after 12/2011 built before 12/2011

    Upper Timing Cover
    Upper Cover Gasket 06H103483C
    Camshaft adjuster cover seal 06H103483D

    Lower Timing Cover
    Full Lower Cover 06H109210AG
    Crank Pulley Seal 06L103085B
    Lower Cover Bolts N91096702


    Dipstick O-ring WHT003463

    Crank Bolt WHT001760
    REINZOSIL Sealant

    Cam Bridge 06H103144K
    Cam bridge bolt 7 N10572403
    Cam Bridge O-ring 52x3 WHT007212B

  2. #1122
    Established Member Three Rings
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    Good on you, Chillaxin!

    So the only thing I notice, which is something I messed up (but it doesn't -really- matter), is that the new Lower Timing Cover (06H109210AG) actually comes with a new Crank Pulley Seal (06L103085B). And this is why I have this guy still sitting on my shelf after having completed the job (My only 'spare part', thank gosh!).



    And here's the new Lower Timing Cover (06H109210AG), with the Crank Pulley Seal (06L103085B) already in it:


    So funnily enough, in my case, the Crank Pulley Seal (06L103085; the one I had unnecessarily separately ordered), came sightly damaged (the hard plastic part had been slightly crushed). So it was a no-brainer to use the one that came with the Lower Timing Cover.

    I'll check over the rest of your list shortly here.

    The only question I have so far is:

    When was your car built? (You list both the pre-Dec 2011 and post-Dec 2011 oil chain tensioner.)

  3. #1123
    Veteran Member Four Rings
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    Is Canada in this ?

    Would they pay for us to replace our old chain to an updated one or only if something goes wrong lol

  4. #1124
    Established Member Three Rings
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    So perhaps it's worth still ordering these duplicates, but if you're replacing the whole Camshaft Bracket (the Camshaft 'Bridge'; 06H103144K), it already comes with a new O-ring. You can actually check it out here on ECS Tuning.

    Also, how does the pricing compare between ECS Tuning and the Audi site you're using? I, perhaps somewhat naively, assumed that ECS Tuning would be the cheapest source. The Camshaft Bracket on there is $243.18, for example. How much is it on your site?

    As an aside, I didn't replace the camshaft bridge, as mine looked great. And I also didn't think to order the O-ring, but fortunately, that one was in perfect order, so I left it alone. My screen was also fine, and I didn't want to muck with it (and I change my oil super often) so I also left it.

    And does your car need 15 of the N91096702 (lower timing chain cover bolts)? Some cars require fewer, I believe 8. I'm mentioning it mainly so that you don't order 8 (off of some documentation for such a car), and end up needing 15. (My MY09 required 15).

    To your questions:
    Is it recommended to remove the oil screen from the cam bridge?
    - I've seen recommendation of this, but I have no idea how to do it, and mine looked -perfect- so I left it.

    How likely is it that the check valve in the bridge has broken?*
    - No idea. I did see them in there though. They looked happy.

    Are there any tips for removing the lower cover without bending it? Use a heat gun and razor blade to break the sealant?
    - Not that I've seen. And there are guys who've done this, and bent them, who seem like mechanic super-dudes.
    - I tried for probably 15 minutes to see if I could get it to budge, without bending it.
    - In those 15 minutes I came to the conclusion that it's a trade: You can probably remove it without bending it, but you'll instead mar your block. So in other words, I don't think it's practical to not bend it.

    Some additional questions/notes:
    1. What is REINZOSIL for?
    (I'm not familiar with it). If it's for the lower timing cover, I used the official VAG stuff, here, FWIW. (I may have overpaid for the same stuff... oh well.)

    2. What tools/supplies do you have? Preemptively, here are the tools that I bought for the job:
    - Timing Service Tool Set (Schwaben 020946SCH01A), here
    - 9 Piece Scraper, Hook and Pick (Schwaben 008504SCH01A), here
    - Locking Tool set; covering the old timing chain tensioner, the accessory belt tensioner (at least for MY09), and a 3rd tool I didn't use, here
    - Do you have replacement coolant already and a way to refill and purge? I didn't so I actually got this kit (here), which I highly recommend. If you already have the coolant, you can get the air purge tool separately, here.
    - Torque Wrenches. I have small, medium, and large, and needed all of them: torque specs range from 1.5Nm to 150Nm + 90 degrees (crank pulley) on this project.
    - Wobble Extenders. I need one to be able to torque the impact absorber back on driver side, lower left bolt. I have these, here
    - 27mm Socket. This is needed to get the balance shaft tensioner on/off. (This is the one tool I had to run to a local parts store to buy... my set only went to 24mm)
    - High temperature zip ties. I use these guys, here. You'll have to cut several factory zip ties in the process. You want to make sure you have ones that can handle the heat in there; standard ones cannot. Those are rated to 266F, spec sheet here.
    - Torx and Triple square sets. Have some I recommend if needed.

    3. I didn't replace the cam bridge bolts. They're not torque to yield bolts (they're torqued super-low; 9Nm), Audi doesn't specify replacing them (they also don't recommend against it), and they looked fine, so I kept them.

    4. ERROR: If you're planning on replacing the 6x cam bridge bolts (the bolts that hold the cam bracket to the head), you have the wrong bolts. The bolt (N10572403) you have listed with quantity 7, is actually only quantity 1, and is a triple-square, not Torx, and is used on the exhaust camshaft only. See below:


    If you do want to replace the other 6 Torx bolts, they're something different, but since I didn't replace them, I'm not sure of the part number on those. Again, Audi doesn't specify replacing them (as they're torqued super-low (9Nm) and very unlikely to need replacement). And factoid, the exhaust cam bolt is the same one that's on the high pressure fuel pump (at least on MY09). I did of course replace the exhaust cam bolt, as it's recommended (and it -is- TTY; 20Nm + 90-deg turn).

    5. Do you already have a dipstick? If not, I'd say install one as you'll need to be correct on the oil on refill, without the luxury of starting the car. I got this one, here

    6. How old is your accessory belt? I installed a new one because it was easy at the time, and I don't have service history going back 60k miles (I didn't own the car then), so figured I might as well. I used this one, here (fits up to MY2012)

    That's all I have.

    So I'll leave you with these guys, here, which I love for taking off and putting on the wheels.

    Cheers!

  5. #1125
    Established Member Three Rings
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    Ah, sorry, just noticed your car is 2012. Disregard that question.

  6. #1126
    Veteran Member Three Rings Chillaxin's Avatar
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    Hey blgilles,

    I put the crank seal p/n and the lower cover p/n on there as I wasn't sure if I was going to be able to reuse the original cover. If I could get the lower cover off without bending it, I was going to replace the seal and reinstall it, and then send back the lower cover. If I bent the lower cover in removal, I would have one on hand to replace it and send back the seal. I listed both p/n for the oil chain tensioner for reference for others (my car was built 1/2012).
    Ebay has a kit of 15 of the oem lower cover bolts for cheap so I'll get those.


    1. Reinzosil is an oil gasket maker similar to permatex "the right stuff" but Reinzosil has a higher temperature rating, and is much cheaper than the audi stuff.

    2. I bought the crank pulley tool, cam timing set kit, and some long 16mm socket head cap screws to slide out the lock carrier on to put it in service postion. Hopefully I dont need to touch the coolant system. I have torque wrenches, large and medium, torx and triple square sets as well. Need to get a the 27mm and 24mm sockets and a breaker bar. I've read the factory repair manual and made a list of steps along with the torque patterns for the specific bolts.

    3-4. You are correct, the 6 torx cam bridge bolts are not TTY. The triple square is though. I put 7 next to it because it is 7th in the torque pattern on the oem manual.

    I haven't ripped into it yet, but I am pretty confident I can do this after all my research. I have done multiple timing belt and clutch jobs on my previous cars.
    Last edited by Chillaxin; 08-10-2018 at 07:52 AM.

  7. #1127
    Established Member Three Rings
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    Sounds good.

  8. #1128
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by blgilles View Post

    Also, how does the pricing compare between ECS Tuning and the Audi site you're using? I, perhaps somewhat naively, assumed that ECS Tuning would be the cheapest source. The Camshaft Bracket on there is $243.18, for example. How much is it on your site?

    Cheers!
    ECS is pricey if you want Genuine Audi stuff. Bought everything here: https://www.audionlineparts.com
    I didn't want any flak for not using Audi parts when I submit my claim.

    Cam bridge (genuine Audi) was $220. https://www.audionlineparts.com/oem-...ket-06h103144k

  9. #1129
    Established Member Three Rings
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    Thanks! Very good to know.

  10. #1130
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    Also, it look like it probably is just worth checking both ECS and Audi Online Parts. I went to double check what the relative prices were, using the timing cover (06H109210AG) as the first check, and on ECS is $184.95 (here) and $213.75 on Audi Online Parts (here)

    So in the future I'll probably just check both sites when ordering. As it seems not one always wins in pricing, unfortunately.

    And yes, agreed on not wanting any flak when submitting the claim.

  11. #1131
    Established Member Two Rings
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    Quote Originally Posted by blgilles View Post
    Also, it look like it probably is just worth checking both ECS and Audi Online Parts. I went to double check what the relative prices were, using the timing cover (06H109210AG) as the first check, and on ECS is $184.95 (here) and $213.75 on Audi Online Parts (here)

    So in the future I'll probably just check both sites when ordering. As it seems not one always wins in pricing, unfortunately.

    And yes, agreed on not wanting any flak when submitting the claim.
    I bought my cover (w/ seal) for $80 on eBay. Elring part, but it was identical. I'll roll the dice on the cover reimbursement.

  12. #1132
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    Wow ya that’s pretty significant. And agreed it will probably work fine. I expect you’ll be reimbursed... it actually saves Audi money.

  13. #1133
    Veteran Member Four Rings Charles.waite's Avatar
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    Genuineaudiparts.com is great too. I order lots of stuff from them.
    -CP
    2008 2.0t S-Line Ti 6MT Avant
    2017 Q7 3.0t
    SOLD -- 2012 Q5 2.0t - Stock Mommy Missile with new timing chains
    Former USP CLUB MEMBER #136
    2004 A4 1.8TQ 6MT USP - APR Stage 1+ - FSI Coils - BKR7EIX-11 - B6S4 Front + B7A4 Rear Brakes - 034 Street Trans Mount
    SOLD -- 2006 A4 2.0TQ Avant Tiptronic

  14. #1134
    Established Member Three Rings
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    Sweet; thanks.

    It struck me today that I really should have made a post on here asking for recommendations on the lowest-price source of Genuine Audi parts before ordering... well, next time!

  15. #1135
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    Quote Originally Posted by macvin View Post
    Thought I would post here just to relay my personal experience.

    I have a 2013 Audi Q5, 05/25/2013 manufacture date (pretty damn close to the 2014 model range), CPMA engine.

    It looks like I have the new style tensioner on my vehicle. It came from the mfg with the new tensioner.



    direct link to image:
    https://i.imgur.com/KG4BOKg.jpg
    That's interesting. I have a "2014" Q5 and the engine manufacture date is also 25.05.13. I supposedly got it from one of the first shipments of 2014 Q's.I purchased it in July 2013.

    Add to that, I have a broken tensioner and some engine damage.
    Last edited by ChuckC; 08-11-2018 at 01:06 PM.

  16. #1136
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    Sorry to hear man. Are you fixing it or having it fixed?

  17. #1137
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    Quote Originally Posted by blgilles View Post
    Sorry to hear man. Are you fixing it or having it fixed?
    It's at the dealership. So far I've been told that the regional manager said that it's not part of the settlement.

  18. #1138
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    Quote Originally Posted by ChuckC View Post
    It's at the dealership. So far I've been told that the regional manager said that it's not part of the settlement.
    Email the law firm a few pages earlier in this thread, give them your VIN and build date from the door jamb, they'll give you a straight answer.

  19. #1139
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    Good call. ^

  20. #1140
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    Quote Originally Posted by Justin B8 View Post
    Email the law firm a few pages earlier in this thread, give them your VIN and build date from the door jamb, they'll give you a straight answer.
    Thank you. I'll do that.

  21. #1141
    Senior Member Three Rings DetRebel's Avatar
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    Another one bites the dust. 2011 around 115k mi.

    Slight rough idle on early starts but smooth as ice after warming up. Started one day went out for a drive came back to it and nothing.


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  22. #1142
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    Sorry man! So what state is it in now and where is it? Will your insurance cover it?

  23. #1143
    Senior Member Three Rings DetRebel's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by blgilles View Post
    Sorry man! So what state is it in now and where is it? Will your insurance cover it?
    I haven’t called the insurance company yet but I don’t think they’ll pay for it. I only have collision and compressive coverage, no extended warranty.

    It’s been inspected and the cylinder head is damaged as well.

    I really want to sell it but don’t think anyone will buy it for a realistic price in this state. The dealership quote is like $8k and the independent verbal quote is $5k. When that’s done it still needs like $750-1250 of regular maintenance ( brakes, trans fluid, coils, PCV, etc.)

    The audi driving experience is amazing but these repair cost have me looking for something more reliable.


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  24. #1144
    Veteran Member Four Rings Novarider's Avatar
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    You mean the valves got damaged or the head itself? I don't think we've seen damage to the head itself before but I could be wrong
    2011 A4 Avant Prestige S-Line

  25. #1145
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    Understand. I’m kind of in the same boat. I just did a bunch of preventative maintenance (timing chain/rails/tensioner, trans fluid, brake vacuum pump, brakes, suspension) and probably only a week after it was all done an injector failed (original injectors). Even that’s disheartening - and has me questioning the brand - but seeing the whole motor go right away is way worse.

    I equally really enjoy the driving experience.

  26. #1146
    Veteran Member Four Rings Charles.waite's Avatar
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    All the turbo-4s since the late 1.8t engine have been problematic. If you want a reliable Audi engine, it’s best to get one with a V6. Which isn’t possible with an A4, so that limits your options on the Audi side...

    The 3.0, 3.2, and 3.0t have all been pretty honest, reliable engines. The later 1.8ts we’re pretty bulletproof, but every 2.0t from the b7-on has has some pretty major Achilles heel that makes owning one a ticking time bomb for your wallet if you don’t stay up on inspecting internal components and do regular maintenance like clockwork.

    Not sure about the newest gen ea888s with the dual injectors but I’m sure something stupid will crop up. Though I hope Audi starts getting their shit together soon...
    -CP
    2008 2.0t S-Line Ti 6MT Avant
    2017 Q7 3.0t
    SOLD -- 2012 Q5 2.0t - Stock Mommy Missile with new timing chains
    Former USP CLUB MEMBER #136
    2004 A4 1.8TQ 6MT USP - APR Stage 1+ - FSI Coils - BKR7EIX-11 - B6S4 Front + B7A4 Rear Brakes - 034 Street Trans Mount
    SOLD -- 2006 A4 2.0TQ Avant Tiptronic

  27. #1147
    Veteran Member Four Rings bhvrdr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Charles.waite View Post
    All the turbo-4s since the late 1.8t engine have been problematic. If you want a reliable Audi engine, it’s best to get one with a V6. Which isn’t possible with an A4, so that limits your options on the Audi side...

    The 3.0, 3.2, and 3.0t have all been pretty honest, reliable engines. The later 1.8ts we’re pretty bulletproof, but every 2.0t from the b7-on has has some pretty major Achilles heel that makes owning one a ticking time bomb for your wallet if you don’t stay up on inspecting internal components and do regular maintenance like clockwork.

    Not sure about the newest gen ea888s with the dual injectors but I’m sure something stupid will crop up. Though I hope Audi starts getting their shit together soon...
    Crazy even the b9 s4 folks are seeing some issues..

    https://www.audizine.com/forum/showt...S4-blown-motor!


    I really wish they made a b8 s4 avant. The 3.0t and dsg have been relatively bullet proof. I dont want an sq5 or 3.0t q5. Hate the styling and dont want high center of gravity

    If i were shopping a sedan though i think a used s4 is arguably much cheaper than a used a4 in the long run

    Mike

    2018 Audi S5
    12.72 @ 108.85mph - 93 octane - +1565DA - Bone Stock
    11.68 @ 117mph - e30 octane - (-945DA) - jb4 only

    2013 Audi S5 DSG - Unitronic ECU & 034 TCU, 3.17pr
    11.07 at 123.62mph - draggy - 93 octane - (-407ft DA)
    Gone-
    '10 A4 Avant - '13 S5 #1 -- '16 A6 -- '15 S4 -- '09 A4 -- '04 S4 -- '06 A4 -- '03 A4 -- '00 A4

  28. #1148
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    Right. I got into Audi driving a 2001 A4 1.8T to 203,000 Miles. It was reliable and had essentially zero problems. I just got bored of it and sold it. I bet it’s still running fine. It had original injectors, for example. And in those 203,000 miles it never stranded me. My B8 has already stranded me, on way fewer miles.

  29. #1149
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    Quote Originally Posted by Charles.waite View Post
    All the turbo-4s since the late 1.8t engine have been problematic. If you want a reliable Audi engine, it’s best to get one with a V6. Which isn’t possible with an A4, so that limits your options on the Audi side...

    The 3.0, 3.2, and 3.0t have all been pretty honest, reliable engines. The later 1.8ts we’re pretty bulletproof, but every 2.0t from the b7-on has has some pretty major Achilles heel that makes owning one a ticking time bomb for your wallet if you don’t stay up on inspecting internal components and do regular maintenance like clockwork.

    Not sure about the newest gen ea888s with the dual injectors but I’m sure something stupid will crop up. Though I hope Audi starts getting their shit together soon...
    So what your saying is i should start looking for a 3.0t to put into my avant??? Theres only a handful of builds i can find. Seems like the best upgrade option

  30. #1150
    Veteran Member Four Rings pierreb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lscheres View Post
    So what your saying is i should start looking for a 3.0t to put into my avant??? Theres only a handful of builds i can find. Seems like the best upgrade option
    Will make it nose heavier and you’re really going to spend way more.

    Put a B8.5 2.0t in it and move on with your life.

    My fixed b8 2.0t has 190k on it now on the original block. Chain, tensioner and pistons replaced. Has been running a K04 for 50k on stock internals and a swapped in used stock 6MT clutch and trans. Yes it’s an Avant :)

  31. #1151
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    Quote Originally Posted by pierreb View Post
    Will make it nose heavier and you’re really going to spend way more.

    Put a B8.5 2.0t in it and move on with your life.

    My fixed b8 2.0t has 190k on it now on the original block. Chain, tensioner and pistons replaced. Has been running a K04 for 50k on stock internals and a swapped in used stock 6MT clutch and trans. Yes it’s an Avant :)
    yeah, that's the most sensible option lol, I've got my eye out for a cpma engine to replace my oil burning 2.0t. I really like the b8 avants so I wanna keep it for a while. if more people do the 3.0t swap id probably take the leap one day. the nose heavy wouldnt bother me, it'd mostly be for straight line driving anyway.

  32. #1152
    Senior Member Three Rings DetRebel's Avatar
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    Engine swaps sound cheaper than the actual repair but I don’t know any shops or Garage mechanics willing to do the work.

    I’d like to get a c7 a6 but those have a few open recall issues right now.


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  33. #1153
    Senior Member Three Rings DetRebel's Avatar
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    What are the options on trading in a car with the timing chain and valve damage? How much do you guys think is a far trade-in on this scenario? 2011 B8 120k mi btw


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  34. #1154
    Veteran Member Four Rings bhvrdr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lscheres View Post
    yeah, that's the most sensible option lol, I've got my eye out for a cpma engine to replace my oil burning 2.0t. I really like the b8 avants so I wanna keep it for a while. if more people do the 3.0t swap id probably take the leap one day. the nose heavy wouldnt bother me, it'd mostly be for straight line driving anyway.
    Weight distribution of th he s4 and a4 is identical at 55/45. The s4 is no more nose heavy than the a4.

    Mike

    2018 Audi S5
    12.72 @ 108.85mph - 93 octane - +1565DA - Bone Stock
    11.68 @ 117mph - e30 octane - (-945DA) - jb4 only

    2013 Audi S5 DSG - Unitronic ECU & 034 TCU, 3.17pr
    11.07 at 123.62mph - draggy - 93 octane - (-407ft DA)
    Gone-
    '10 A4 Avant - '13 S5 #1 -- '16 A6 -- '15 S4 -- '09 A4 -- '04 S4 -- '06 A4 -- '03 A4 -- '00 A4

  35. #1155
    Veteran Member Four Rings
    Join Date
    Feb 07 2018
    AZ Member #
    413662
    Location
    PDX ish

    Quote Originally Posted by pierreb View Post
    Will make it nose heavier and you’re really going to spend way more.

    Put a B8.5 2.0t in it and move on with your life.

    My fixed b8 2.0t has 190k on it now on the original block. Chain, tensioner and pistons replaced. Has been running a K04 for 50k on stock internals and a swapped in used stock 6MT clutch and trans. Yes it’s an Avant :)
    3.0 is a much better motor and iiirc its 100 pounds more. The resale of a b8 avant with the 3.0t makes it worth it for now and eternity.

  36. #1156
    Veteran Member Four Rings pierreb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 15 2006
    AZ Member #
    11476
    My Garage
    2020 A4 allroad
    Location
    NH

    Quote Originally Posted by DetRebel View Post
    Engine swaps sound cheaper than the actual repair but I don’t know any shops or Garage mechanics willing to do the work.

    I’d like to get a c7 a6 but those have a few open recall issues right now.


    Sent from my iPhone using Audizine
    I’m reasonably certain the shop who did my 6MT swap with me would do it. I know another shop in Mass who would consider doing it too.

    With that said, I’d probably DIY it.

  37. #1157
    Established Member Three Rings
    Join Date
    Jun 17 2018
    AZ Member #
    420830
    Location
    Colorado

    How DIY-able is an engine swap? I ask because I’d love to do that and put a 6MT in while at it. Would OBDEleven be sufficient for coding?

    Background: the most I’ve done is whole timing replacement (everything), brake vacuum pump replacement, suspension replacement, and in the process of replacing the injectors and removing carbon from the intake valves/etc. And of course OBDEleven stuff to make the car less beep-y, etc.

  38. #1158
    Veteran Member Four Rings pierreb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 15 2006
    AZ Member #
    11476
    My Garage
    2020 A4 allroad
    Location
    NH

    Quote Originally Posted by bhvrdr View Post
    Weight distribution of th he s4 and a4 is identical at 55/45. The s4 is no more nose heavy than the a4.

    Mike
    The engine weighs 100lbs more. How could it possibly be identical.

  39. #1159
    Veteran Member Four Rings pierreb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 15 2006
    AZ Member #
    11476
    My Garage
    2020 A4 allroad
    Location
    NH

    Quote Originally Posted by hardfive View Post
    3.0 is a much better motor and iiirc its 100 pounds more. The resale of a b8 avant with the 3.0t makes it worth it for now and eternity.
    You’d never get the money you put in back.

    Keep the A4 as is and add k04. Buy an s4/S5 and build it to 500hp. You’ve spent approx. the same $ as a swap and you have two very fun cars to drive.

  40. #1160
    Veteran Member Four Rings pierreb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 15 2006
    AZ Member #
    11476
    My Garage
    2020 A4 allroad
    Location
    NH

    THE Timing Chain Tensioner Failure Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by blgilles View Post
    How DIY-able is an engine swap? I ask because I’d love to do that and put a 6MT in while at it. Would OBDEleven be sufficient for coding?

    Background: the most I’ve done is whole timing replacement (everything), brake vacuum pump replacement, suspension replacement, and in the process of replacing the injectors and removing carbon from the intake valves/etc. And of course OBDEleven stuff to make the car less beep-y, etc.
    Look at Lettuce’s build thread for the engine swap.

    I did my 6mt coding with VCdS which I’ve had for 10yrs. I don’t know obdeleven enough to say if it can do it. I have it for the new q7 but I’m too lazy to learn it.

    You need to do wiring to the ECU. Not something I would advise you to do on your own.

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